Jump to content
jrfly3006

AR-15 and Mobil 1?

Recommended Posts

I have not tried this myself but..... I know enough people that I consider knowledgable that have and with good results. HOWEVER, I admit that I am not so concerned with my firearms as I am esposing myself to contact with motor oil. I mean it is a carcinogyn(sp) right? And does it vaporise while shooting? Am I breathing that in? All things not part of the consideration of a product made for an enclosed system..... Just my thoghts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I take the opposite view as Paul and Shane, in theory anyways. If Mobil-One can lubricate the hot, fast-moving metal in an engine, I don't know why it wouldn't be a good fit for a gun. The synthetic motor oil doesn't cook off. That said, I know that Militec-1 was engineered to be the correct viscosity for the application. With motor oil I would just be guessing. 10W-30? 20W-50? I use Militec.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My feeling is that the motor oil would burn off quickly since its designed to be in a high-heat, but enclosed system. I think you could use it,but you would have to reapply more often.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My understanding is that spent motor oil is a carcinogen, not fresh motor oil. More specifically, motor oil that has been used in an actual motor.

 

I don't see any reason why Mobil 1 won't work in an AR. It will probably burn off, and while I don't think breathing it in is any worse than breathing the vapors of gun lube, I doubt it's any better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I take the opposite view as Paul and Shane, in theory anyways. If Mobil-One can lubricate the hot, fast-moving metal in an engine, I don't know why it wouldn't be a good fit for a gun. The synthetic motor oil doesn't cook off. That said, I know that Militec-1 was engineered to be the correct viscosity for the application. With motor oil I would just be guessing. 10W-30? 20W-50? I use Militec.

I'll tell you exactly why not... in an internal combustion engine you have a pressurized, recirculating oil distribution system that maintains fresh oil flow and replenishment. A firearm has non of these things and so through the process of firing, thin lube get flung off, burnt off, evaporate and simply migrate under gravity. Some guns do a better job of containing lube under tighter tolerances, low movement and semi-sealed parts, but the bolt carrier in an AR has got to be the worst environment ever. Non contained, exposed rails under a long stroke recoil with filthy hot gasses blowing all over them tends to pollute and erode any lube put there, especially a thin oil. I've always had better luck with a light grease like Slide Glide or Slip EWL 30 or 50 weight that will STAY THE fugg PUT and go the distance and not run down and evaporate like Militec, run like normal EWL or any other thin oils. This alone is why motor oil is a poor choice to begin with. But i guess some people like to clean and lube thier guns often.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From the Father Frog’s Website…………………..

Homemade Cleaners Firearm & Lubricants

Gun Oil Substitutes

Keep in mind that no matter what lubricant you use, you should use the minimum amount of lube possible. You want it lubricated and not an oil field.

Synthetic Automotive Oils

 

Synthetic automotive oils (such as Quaker State High Performance Synthetic, Castrol, and Mobil 1) work well as general lubricants and because of their detergent capabilities they will help to remove "crud." (Synthetic oils handle low temperatures better than regular oils.) Just remember, as with any lubricant, not to over lube things. Valvoline Semi-Synthetic Power Steering Fluid has also been used with great success by many folks as their normal lubricant.

Slick Stuff

 

This very "oily", (i.e. slick, greasy) lubricant appears to adhere very well to metal, with little or no creep. Thus it does not appear to drain from slides and parts during extended storage. From the formula it appears that it might not be suitable at very low temperatures.

2 parts Dexron II or III automatic transmission fluid 1 Part Mobil-1 Synthetic Oil, 30 weight, or 10W-30 1 Part STP Oil Treatment (the stuff for "old" cars w/ over 30,000 mi.)

Thanks to John Nichols for this tip

Amsoil

 

Another excellent home brew lube is Amsoil Synthetic ATF with some lanolin added to make it even slicker. A synthetic grease from TS Moly (www.tsmoly.com) called Arctic Grade TS-67 also makes a great lube especially for cold weather. It is a totally synthetic moly grease with the consistency of chocolate mousse. It does not run, weep or smell (very important for the SAF (spousal acceptance factor)). It is reported to work fine at -30 degrees.

Thanks to Roger Rothschild and Mike Gieger for this tip.

Slippery Stuff

 

Try 80 percent Marvel Mystery Oil mixed with 20 percent Slick 50 .

Thanks to Jim Conway for this tip.

Ed's Red Oil

As a general bore cleaner, plastic wad remover, and carbon solvent the following formula, a creation of C.E Harris, and dubbed "Ed's Red" works quite well. In fact many folks claim it is better than anything they've tried. The original formula is:

1 part Dexron II, IIe or III Automatic Transmission Fluid - GM Spec D20265 or later 1 part K1 Kerosene 1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits federal spec TT-T-2981F (CAS# 64741-49-9) or Stodard Solvent/Varsol (CAS#8052-41-1) 1 part Acetone (CAS#67-64-1)

Formula Addendum

It has been reported that methyethylketone/MEK (CAS#78-93-3) can be satisfactorily substituted for the acetone if desired.

It has been reported that Turpentine can be satisfactorily substituted for the Mineral Spirits if desired. The original Frankfort Arsenal formula upon which Ed's Red is based used turpentine rather than mineral spirits which were substituted for lower cost. Turpentine also tends to leave a gummy residue.

It has been reported that Kroil penetrating oil can be satisfactorily substituted for the kerosene if desired.

It has been reported that the lower numbered "JP" jet fuels can be used in place of kerosene.

It has been reported that Goo-Gone (a commercial citrus based solvent) can be satisfactorily substituted for the mineral spirits if desired.

It has been reported that commercial automotive "engine flush" can be substituted for the ATF (but you lose the red color).

For each gallon of Ed's Red produced you can also add 1 pound of anhydrous lanolin (CAS#8006-54-0), which helps to neutralize fingerprints but it's really not necessary and current formulations generally omit it. You can also leave out the acetone but then it doesn't remove plastic wad fouling or penetrate as well. Store in airtight chemical-proof containers as the acetone, if used, will evaporate. Two sources for bulk anhydrous lanolin are http://www.selectoils.com/item--Lanolin--SO-Lanolin.html and http://www.thesage.com/ .

According to Ed, "Ed's Red" will flow at -65

 

oF and won't carbonize at 600oF. It has seen use by both the FBI and the Army Marksmanship Training Units.

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, or chemical-resistant, heavy gage NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers. Do

 

NOT use light weight, thin, high density polyethelyne (HDPE), which is breathable, because the acetone will gradually evaporate. Don't use PVC containers as they will dissolve. A possible online source for metal 1 pint and 1 quart screw top metal containers suitable for storing Ed's Red is http://www.taxidermy.com . This site appears to be some sort of frames based design that does not allow you to link directly to containers, but you can find them via the following site links Products | Molding and Casting | Containers, Cups and Tools. The Blitz USA line of approved gasoline containers can be obtained at Auto Zone, Home Depot, Walmart, Target, and other retailers and are what I use. (www.blitzusa.com).

Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed.

You can divert a small quantity, up to 4 ounces per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for use as an "Ed's Red-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the mix.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING a) Insure that the firearm is unloaded and that all magazines are removed. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with Ed's Red, wrap or impale on a jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore.

b) Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.

c. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use.

d) Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for up to 30 days. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years.

e)

 

Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes and it could damage some plastics if left in prolonged contact.

f) Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described.

It has been reported that when Ed's Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a thorough flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean

 

twice, two days apart, whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the residue out.

Thanks to Jim Dodd for the above instructions

An unusual use for Ed's Red. Several correspondents report that an application of ER to an ant hill, especially fire ants, kills 'em dead.

Also, Ed's Red is very penetrative and makes a superior penetrating oil for loosening rusted parts. In fact in some testing by a machinist's magazine a couple of years ago it beat

 

all the

commercial products by a wide margin. A dedicated ER penetrating solution can be made by just using a 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone.

A historical note about Ed's Red. When Ed Harris first cooked it up, it exceeded the then current Mil Specs for bore cleaner and CLP. Ed and a cohort were able to test it at a defense contractor's quality lab after hours with chrome-moly and stainless samples provided by Kreiger Barrels.

Eds Red Plus

 

This variation on the Ed's Red formula gives it a copper removing ability similar to the commercial bore cleaner Marksman's Choice MC-7. You will need:

11 ounces of basic Ed's Red 2 ounces of 10%-20% industrial strength ammonia 2 ounces of Rustlick WS-11 cutting oil or suitable alternative 1 ounce of Murphy's Oil Soap

Mix the oil soap and ammonia in a separate container. In a suitable 1 pint container containing 11 ounces of Ed's Red, add the cutting oil and mix together. Then add the oil soap/ammonia mixture to Ed's Red/ cutting oil and shake the container to mix the ingredients. You will end up with a pink opaque liquid that for the most part remains in solution, but some components may settle out over an extended period. It is always best to shake well before using. The resulting solution will remove mild copper deposits in bores if allowed to work about 15-20 minutes.

Water soluble cutting oils and rust inhibitors can be obtained online from http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm or locally from your industrial supplier. NAPA auto stores carry a soluble oil listed as NAPA Soluble Cutting and Grinding Oil," part number SL SL2512. Metal screw top containers can be obtained from http://www.taxidermy.com under | Products | Molding and Casting | Containers, Cups and Tools.

Thanks to Bill Mecca for this information.

You can link directly to that frame by using this URL http://www.taxidermy.com/cat/18/tool.html, but there's no link back to their home page from there.

Thanks to Patrick Larkin Jr. for this tip.

In a pinch you can use straight mineral spirits as a rather good bore cleaner.

See the ER recipe for an ER compatible oil. Just a 50/50 mix of ATF and K1 kerosene. Straight ATF works very well too.

Lanolin

 

We've mentioned lanolin in several places as an ingredient, but liquid lanolin also makes a very good warm weather, lubricant for high pressure wear spots like sears and other wear point all by itself. It also is an excellent preservative/rust proofer (well known to marine users in that role). It has also been used as a bore conditioner for .22RF barrels by running a lanolin soaked patch

through a clean bore, followed by dry patches until nothing remains on the patches.. An Australian company called Lanotec (www.lanotec.com.au) sells liquid lanolin in an aerosol can but I'm not sure if it's available in the US.

Thanks to Dave York for reminding me of lanolin as a lube.

Automotive "moly" Grease

 

Excellent for sears and hammer notches - just use a little.

NOTE: WD40 is NOT a satisfactory lubricant for firearms as it tends to become gummy as it dries.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My gun oil of choice is mobil 1. I shoot almost every day and can say that it is my choice for a reason. After countless of thousands of rounds, there is no noticeable wear, while when i was using commercial lubes i noticed wear. With commercial lubes my MG-42 runs like crap, switch to Mobil 1 and it runs like a sewing machine. I was told about Mobil 1 by a friend that is a famous gunsmith, if its good enough for him its good enough for me

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As I said earlier, Im not worried about the lubricating qualities, cook off etc etc. Im worried about contact and atomization. But maybe those concerns are equally as bad for reguler firearms lube? I dont know. But after chasing oils down both in the automotive world and gun world, the differences are probably a lot smaller than most think.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

I thought oil therads on motorcycle forums were bad...sheesh...

 

In.an AR or other gas fed weapon like a garand...oil At a minimum...grease is your friend....lubriplate

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why use an item made for cars on your guns? Militec-1 is ideal for lube. Stick with that.

 

I feel this is exactly what they want you to think (IMO). $10.99 for "Gun Scrubber" ~ $3.99 for non chlorinated brake cleaner. You decide.

$7.99 for 3 oz "Super Gun grease" ~ $8.00 for Mobil 1 uber grease 12.5 oz....

I believe most "specialty lubes" are industrial lubes re-packaged for the gun market ....in miniscule amounts.compared to their industrial bretheren.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been using Amsoil in all my stuff for a few years now. works better than anything else ive tried. When i change the oil in my car i just let the "empty" bottle drip into a measuring cup. bought a needle tipped squeeze bottle and filled it up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have not tried this myself but..... I know enough people that I consider knowledgable that have and with good results. HOWEVER, I admit that I am not so concerned with my firearms as I am esposing myself to contact with motor oil. I mean it is a carcinogyn(sp) right? And does it vaporise while shooting? Am I breathing that in? All things not part of the consideration of a product made for an enclosed system..... Just my thoghts.

hint, it's a carcinogen because it is a petrochemical product. Most lubes probably are. Shooting doesn't expose you to them enough to matter. The amount of sooty particulate shot into the air you breathe from shooting pales in comparison form what comes out of your car and you breathe during rush hour. It also pales in toxicity compared to what is generated by setting off a primer.

The ONLY reason to use mobile 1 is because you run your AR sopping wet and mobile 1 is CHEAP compared to firearms lube while still working well enough. I don't run my ARs sopping wet, I don't clean them that much, and I don't have problems (I do take care ot lube them sufficiently in a manner that works). However, running them sopping wet and getting them dirty or dusty can have issues. (note: for me, I usually clean them once every 1000-1500 rounds unless I get caught in the rain. Wet guns always get cleaned and dried before getting put away).

 

I feel this is exactly what they want you to think (IMO). $10.99 for "Gun Scrubber" ~ $3.99 for non chlorinated brake cleaner. You decide.

$7.99 for 3 oz "Super Gun grease" ~ $8.00 for Mobil 1 uber grease 12.5 oz....

I believe most "specialty lubes" are industrial lubes re-packaged for the gun market ....in miniscule amounts.compared to their industrial bretheren.

 

Many of them are indeed industrial lubes repackaged. However, they most often are NOT something you or I can buy off a shelf at an auto parts store in a reasonable quantity. I found out what one of the lubes I like is, and it is indeed a repackaged specialty industrial lubricant. It is sold in units that will last me 2-3 years and cost about $12. The smallest container of it I could find cost $250. Sure, I'm paying $12 for what is between $1 and $1.25 of lube, some packaging, and the labor to get it IN that packaging. However, to save money, I'd either have to go into business trying to undercut the seller of the lube, or figure out how to eventually make good use of about 600 years worth of gun lube. Assuming it is stable for that long. Then I would have to find a reasonable smaller container/applicator to load it up into, etc.

 

I'll pay the $12.

 

On the other hand, if I ran out of lube while traveling for whatever reason, I'd gladly pick up a quart of decent synthetic motor oil as a field expedient solution to my problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use mobil 1 on all my firearms. I never had an issues with it. It is the one of the few lubes that is still there after long practices.

 

Didn't Militec-1 start life as a crankcase oil then got repackaged as firearms lube when it wouldn't sell

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try Slip EWL and the Slip family of degreaser/cleaner and carbon cutters. Thank me later ;)

 

As far as lube, you can use anything for the short term. As long as you keep it wet, the AR Platform can be extremely forgiving. I have heard from reliable sources, or seen first hand, the following used successfully as a short term lubricant on rifles, either as an experiment or as a field expedient remedy:

 

WD-40

Butter/Margarine

Olive Oil

Pam

Saliva

Vagisil

Urine

Astroglide

KY Jelly

Motor oil

Eye wash/artificial tears

 

Just because it works, doesn't mean it is the right choice.

 

In my experience, CLPs (like Breakfree) and Dry Film Lubricants (like Militec) don't do everything I wish they could. In fact, in my experience, they flat out don't work at all. Have you ever actually read the directions to correctly apply Militec? Outrageous. Plus they suck at long term rust prevention, and quickly wear off both in use and in storage.

 

There is a reason that the military (at least the US Army and USMC) is getting away from them.

 

Read this: http://www.gao.gov/new.items/d09735r.pdf

 

I don't have any long term experience with Motor Oil as a lubricant, and in the short term it worked well, just burned off quicker than the Slip, and had mediocre protective properties.

 

The Slip products are Non-Toxic, don't stink (although I admit, I do like the smell of Hoppes #9), work extremely well, are relatively cheap and the lube stays wet long after you apply it.

 

I shot a 3 day VTAC course in May this year. I fired almost 2000 rounds over the 3 days. I applied Slip on the morning of TD 1 and that was it. No cleaning, no more lube for the remainder of the course. I had a popped primer in the morning of TD 1 and that was my only malfunction.

 

Guys using other stuff, either by choice or SOP, did not fare nearly as well, with stoppages a-plenty during the high round count strings called for on some drills.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From the Father Frog’s Website…………………..

.

NOTE: WD40 is NOT a satisfactory lubricant for firearms as it tends to become gummy as it dries.

 

WD40 is a solvent not a lubricant and THAT is why it shouldn't be used. :facepalm:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my experience, a carbine being used in the conditions we find here in the Northeast, typically runs better when wet.

 

You should follow the manufactuers guidelines for lubrication for your particular weapon.

 

Personally, if it is shiny, indicating metal on metal contact of moving parts, I lube it liberally.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My understanding is that spent motor oil is a carcinogen, not fresh motor oil. More specifically, motor oil that has been used in an actual motor.

 

I don't see any reason why Mobil 1 won't work in an AR. It will probably burn off, and while I don't think breathing it in is any worse than breathing the vapors of gun lube, I doubt it's any better.

 

+1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

SlipEWL and Magnalube multi-purpose grease are the only two lubes one would ever need for a gun, IMO of course. In addition the Magnalube is great for all kinds of things around the house, especially garage doors.

 

I've read that Slip EWL consists of a 40-70% synthetic hydrocarbon base (heard it was a PAO) which is similar to the bases used for high end synthetic motor oil. What matters is the additive package that is proprietary and is what alters the base to certain performance specs. The Slip EWL additive package was designed for use in firearms, synthetic motor oil additive package was designed for internal combustion engines. Sure both would probably fair well in either situation, but I'd rather use the purpose-formulated option for its intended use.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



  • olight.jpg

    Use Promo Code "NJGF10" for 10% Off Regular Items

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Latest Topics

  • Similar Content

    • By RetNJ47
      Selling my Troy A4 “Other” Firearm 5.56(.223) with Blast Shield (faux suppressor) and BA Hanson profile 11.3” precision barrel with Silencer Co ASR muzzle brake.
      Had gunsmith remove pin and welded muzzle brake on stock 10.5” inch barrel. Upgraded to BA 11.3” performance barrel bringing OAL to 26.8 inches without pin and welded muzzle device. ASR threaded Silco brake added with 6” Blast Shield. Trigger/Feed Ramp polish job for smoother take up and crisp reset(for a Mil-Spec trigger). Only 40 rounds have been fired for testing and proper initial barrel break in using Modern Spartan Systems accuracy oil between shot cycles.
      Full list of modifications:
      -Ballistic Advantage Hanson Profile 5.56 chambered 11.3 inch Performance Series Barrel
      -SilencerCo Muzzle Brake
      -SDTA 6” Blast Shield
      -SBA3 Brace (Black or possibly FDE available)
      -Magpul Gen 2 BUIS and Vertical Foregrip
      -CMMG Stainless Gas Tube
      $1550
      Located in Toms River with closest FFL being Weshoot/Shoreshot. Buyer responsible for transfer fee at FFL.
      Still have stock barrel also if interested.
      **Eotech Not Included** if interested it’s an EOtech EXPS2-0 and I have a G43 magnifier w/STS mount and Surefire light with pressure pad to go along with it.

    • By [email protected]
      Yesterday I visited a local store that has been around for a long time, They had nothing in stock. needless to say I asked about getting a TROY other and the owner was very uptight about it. he said I'll never sell one due to the fact that there is a federal law in the works to stop the sale and any prior sales will be confiscated! I was not happy to hear this but this store has a very bad rep. So a little help here, I looked and saw nothing about this subject on line. 
    • By Casual Shooter
      WTS: Updated: Smith & Wesson M&P 15 ORC 5.56/.223 with many accessories
      Includes rifle, magazine, manual, box, lock. Rifle is in excellent condition.
      ·         Model: M&P 15 ORC Optics Ready Compliant #811013
      ·         Chromed Components: Barrel Bore, Chamber, Gas Key, Bolt Carrier
      ·         Receiver: 7075 T6 Aluminum
      ·         Stock: Fixed Pinned
      ·         Overall length: 35”
      ·         Weight: 6.25 lbs.
      ·         Barrel: 16”, 1 in 9 twist, 4140 Steel
      ·         Finish: Hard Coat Black Anodized
      ·         Gas block with integral Picatinny Rail on the same plane as the receiver rail. QD Sling Swivel Attachment on the bottom
      Additional Accessories include are:
      ·         Troy 7” Aluminum Drop in BattleRails quad rail
      ·         Magpul MOE Carbine Hand Guard, Dark Earth, with Picatinny rail section
      ·         AR15 Handguard Removal Tool (Brownells # 100-000-438)
      ·         Magpul B.A.D. Battery Assist Lever
      ·         Ambidextrous Charging Handle Latch
      ·         ERGO Grip, Dark Earth
                $725.00 cash
      FID and matching DL required with transfer thru FFL. Located in Morris County, RTSP in Randolph preferred FFL. Buyer responsible for transfer fees.
      The first to post “I’ll take it” wins the sale followed by PM to confirm.
       













    • By PK90
      NO, you can't have one. Too heavy and has handguard.
      - Fightlite SCR Lower and Bolt
      - KAK 4.5" Barrel w/Adj Gas Block and Griffin Armament Linear Device
      - Ambi-Charging Handle
      - CZ Low Profile Sights
      Haven't had a chance to shoot it yet. Will add a handstop.





    • By Smokin .50
      CNJFO HOG HUNT SUNDAY JAN. 26TH! SAVE THE DATE!
      A PORKTASTIC GOOD TIME W/ 2A PATRIOTS & FRIENDS!
      by Black Wire Media Wed. Nov. 13, 2019 www.cnjfo.com/join-us
      The Coalition of New Jersey Firearm Owners is proud to announce we've scheduled our first Hog Hunt of the new season for Sunday January 26th. So mark your calendars and watch for our event page & sign-up on our website (coming SOON!). The guided Hunt is ideal for beginners & anyone looking for a challenge since this is a "NO license, ANY weapon" affair held on a 150 acre island in the middle of the Susquehanna River near Harrisburg, PA. Raffles, swag, lunch included. Stay Saturday night & party with us (Dutch Treat) OR come Sunday. A great way to fill the freezer & support NJ's busiest 2A group!
      Hunt includes hot lunch served on the island, field dressed hog, goody bag w/ swag items, raffles for great prizes (BRING CASH ON ISLAND) & all the memories you can take home!
      We recommend V. Roche & Son Butchers in Whitehouse Station, NJ.  A CNJFO sponsor, they have a renowned reputation for excellent service!
      Register HERE:  
      https://www.cnjfo.com/event-3629844


       
  • Posts

    • I've watched a lot of "Mighty Ships" series on TV, as well as cruise ship series. It seems prevalent for large ships to have GPS tracking, and possibly guidance. So the path of this ship should be on record somewhere. And one critical fact would be whether or not as the ship approached the bridge it followed the correct path in the harbor channel. The conspiracy aspect would ask was  one of the electronic guidance/navigation systems hacked to put it on a collision course? I'm not anxious to find a terrorist attack. But if you'd asked me on September 10, 2001 what were the odds of four hijacked aircraft being successfully flown by amateurs into three iconic American structures... I will say there's not a doubt in my mind there are nasty people that crossed the border to cause trouble. I just can't be certain how, and how much.
    • It's been reported now that there were two harbor pilots on board and 21 crewmen. The article mentions that there were no cars on the bridge when it collapsed.   Actually, divers found two people trapped in their car.  They were recovered Tuesday afternoon. 
    • My CDefense has a way different bullet profile / ogive than my CDuty..............easy to tell apart.
×
×
  • Create New...