Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
JIG

1st Cleaning in 20+ Years

Recommended Posts

I was hoping someone could recommend a professional Gunsmith who can handle my Hi-Standard Model 103 Supermatic Citation

 

Back in the day my Grandfather really loved pistol shooting and bought this beauty right from the factory and took extensive care of it because I see very little wear and tear on the gun

 

My father inherited it and has passed it to me after I got my PID, but as it hasn't been used in 20+ years I'm a little iffy on using it

 

I'm kind of equating it to cleaning a car (bad example but still) it is a heck of a lot easier maintaining an already clean car after detailing then starting from ground up cleaning all the nooks and crannies

 

What I'm hoping for is a really good Gunsmith to disassemble, clean, oil, check/replace springs and replace the grips (too small for my hands); basically get the gun into pristine shooting condition so going forward I can maintain it

 

I'm willing to drive to the best so any suggestions?

 

Also just to let you know the picture does it no justice

post-6713-0-81288500-1367097000_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's quite a unique designed pistol there! I've never seen that before, it's neat. Probably an accurate gun too.

 

It's all up to you of course but I would suggest cleaning it yourself. It's really not hard to do, and many new shooters who feel incompetent about stripping their gun end up doing it and then realizing how easy it is! I only suggest this because 1 - you can see how your pistol works 2- it's fun cleaning and fondling your gun and 3 - it will save you lots of money.

 

Now in regards to grips, I would search the internet and see if you can find grips you like that you can order and put on yourself. If not, a gunsmith will be able to find grips for you and if he can't find them for you some may even custom make them for you.

 

And the springs, I wouldn't worry about them but that's just me. Maybe someone else can comment more on it but if the pistol was shot very infrequently and then stored, the springs should be fine. If you plan on shooting thousands of rounds out of it now and really shooting it a lot, then maybe, but if not, I wouldn't bother.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From what my father tells me, who shot it with my grandfather, it is an amazingly accurate gun (one of the best of the era for target shooting)

 

I've heard family stories that since this chambers .22LR that even out to 50 yards you can accurately hit dead center of a bullseye

 

What helps are the adjustable weights forward of the trigger on the barrel that prevents the gun from rising after firing, so you can send round after round without the sights leaving the target

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What you have there is a bullseye gun (NRA 2700) from the 60's - 70's. Once Hi-Standard introduced the models with the same grip angle as a 1911, these kind of fell out of favor. Here's my Model 102 - which was my father's bullseye gun in the 60's...

 

1zgry3k.jpg

 

These came in 6", 8" and 10" barrels. It appears that both you and I have the 8" version.

 

By all means, clean it yourself. The barrel comes off easily by pushing the button at the front of the frame (under the barrel) to the rear. Since it has been a long time, it may be stiff - use a countertop with the barrel hanging over the edge and the button on the counter and put your weight on it. There is a mushroom shaped post on the underside of the barrel - the button is the release for that. Just be careful when you remove the grips and note (maybe diagram) the position of the springs. Remove the muzzle brake - there are two allen screws (3 & 9 o'clock) facing rearward, that screw into detents in the end of the barrel. Clean the lead out of the brake - be careful using chemicals on the blued finish. Remove the slide and thoroughly scrub everywhere you can reach. Gun Scrubber is your friend. Lube it and re-assemble and it will be fine.

 

Enjoy.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Snip

 

Pizza Bob thank you so much for the infomation I have been searching the web for a while now on possibly doing it myself and recently found what I think to be the schematic, my concern is that when I go to actually break it down that something goes wrong which is why I wanted a Gunsmith in the wings so to speak

 

I'm in the process of tracking down grips but the problem is most places I can find have no pictures of what they look like or list in a different sku from what is on the schematic, currently looking through: Brownells, Sarco, Inc., and Numrich Gun Parts Corp.

 

Would Gun Scrubber harm the blue? Normally when you spray down the barrel wouldn't that cause splatter? Or will it be a simple matter of wiping the splatter off then oiling?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Read the can, but I believe that Gun Scrubber is fine for blued finish guns. Take the grips off before cleaning (and watch those springs.

 

Speaking of grips...

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JAY-SCOTT-HIGH-STANDARD-22-AUTO-PISTOL-GUN-RIGHT-HAND-TARGET-FAUX-STAG-GRIPS-/161009580795?pt=Vintage_Hunting&hash=item257ceb3afb

 

Certainly not what one would expect to find on a bullseye gun - but kinda' neat.

 

Here are the grips you want...

 

http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/grip-parts/grips/grips-right-hand-thumbrest-walnut-sku430000177-7320-18357.aspx

 

These appear to be the same as I have on my gun (which are aftermarket - I have the OE plastic ones, as well as the box).

 

This may also help...

 

http://stevespages.com/pdf/histandard_parts_list.pdf

 

Same as the ones from Brownells, I believe...

 

http://highstandardpartsonline.com/high-standard-walnut-grips-right-hand-p-1.html

 

Hope this helps.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I recall about Gun Scrubber years ago, they said test it on inconspicuous surfaces first. It's pretty strong. I'd be leery on older gun finishes without testing it first. Might cause discoloring.

 

 

Sent from John's iPad 2 via Tapatalk HD

Typos courtesy Apple...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello All,

 

Update since last time, I bought the grips suggested and fit like a glove after drilling out  the screw holes a little

 

I'm trying to clean up the carbon build up and have made good progress in the barrel but running into issues with the muzzle break

 

I removed the allen screws at 3 and 9 o'clock and the larger allen screw on the sight but having difficulty removing the break, it slides about a 1/4" before seemingly catches on something

 

I'm unsure if there is some type of locking mechanism but I am unable to remove the muzzle break to clean the heavy carbon deposits

 

Anyone have an idea why the break will not "break" free?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are talking about the screw at 12 o'clock, that has nothing to do with the brake - that holds on the sight.

 

Completely remove the two brake allen screws (3 & 9 o'clock) and then try again. There is probably a lot of crud accumulated and it may be difficult to remove, but my guess is that you just haven't backed out the allen screws far enough.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pizza Bob I completly removed the screws and they do not appear to be damaged so I'm still unsure what is holding the break on the barrel. Possible that the build up is extream and I need some type of chemical or solvent, I've already poured a lot of Hoppe's bore cleaner and oiled the hell out of it. Is there some type of chemical 'bath' I can use to soak it like overnight that will eat all the caked on deposits but leave the bluing unharmed?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

White vinegar will help get rid of the lead deposits (which is normally what the build-up consists of in the compensator), but it can damage the finish. Vinegar is acetic acid and reacts with the lead. Do not let it soak in vinegar long term. If you try this, make sure that you flush everything the vinegar touched completely. Probably better off doing what you have been doing, but letting it soak a while.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Final update - Success!

 

I was finally able to get the brake off of the barrel, basically what happened is my grandfather tightened the screws so much a that the screws bit into the metal causing the hole in the barrel to slighty deform

 

This was what I was catching so as soon as I removed and cleaned up the end I took a diamond dremel and slightly shaved down the deformed area so flush with the rest of the barrel

 

It now slips on and off like a charm!

 

So I finished cleaning up the brake (had to remove a ton of lead!) put it together and hopefully soon I'll take this down to the range

 

Thanks for all the help!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Final update - Success!

 

I was finally able to get the brake off of the barrel, basically what happened is my grandfather tightened the screws so much a that the screws bit into the metal causing the hole in the barrel to slighty deform

 

This was what I was catching so as soon as I removed and cleaned up the end I took a diamond dremel and slightly shaved down the deformed area so flush with the rest of the barrel

 

It now slips on and off like a charm!

 

So I finished cleaning up the brake (had to remove a ton of lead!) put it together and hopefully soon I'll take this down to the range

 

Thanks for all the help!

Glad to see you were able to get it apart.  they are superb Pistols, and surprisingly simple to take down as compared to say a Ruger Mk-1.  I have a Mitchell Arms copy of the Victor model HS that is scary accurate.  Id love to use it for steel, but magazines are hard to find, and $40-50 when you do

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



  • olight.jpg

    Use Promo Code "NJGF10" for 10% Off Regular Items

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Latest Topics

  • Similar Content

    • By MichaelDiggs
      I like cleaning my AR. I can get just about place I need to. One area I'm having trouble with is one end of the bolt carrier. Not the end where you use the Otis cleaning tool, but the other side. If I look into there I see some build up carbon that I just can't get to. A wire brush won't fit and it is a tight fit. What I need is some kind of brush with the bristles on the end of the brush itself to stick down this carrier and just start twisting the brush to clean as much the carbon as it can. Is there anything like that out there at all? Preferably brass, don't want to scratch anything up. Not sure if that area was overlooked by the cleaning companies or what, but it does leave carbon build up on every range day. The picture in this post is the area I can clean with the Otis tool. It is the other side that I can't get into. Went to Lowes, Home Depot, trying to think outside the box to even make a tool.  Any ideas or is anyone as OCD as this?
       
       

    • By Sig
      Hello everyone, brand new to the board so let me know if I'm in the right subforum or if I can have this better answered elsewhere. pagunforums.com anyone? lol
      Can anyone recommend an FFL in Pennsylvania that will pin weld breaks, pin stocks, and also accept transfers. I live in North Jersey so anything in North PA with low FFL and gunsmithing fees are preferable. I am running into problems with a shop refusing to send complete AR 15s to NJ FFLs. Any help is appreciated.
    • By son of sam
      I have machined a few of my handgun slides to accept a micro red dot. Currently there is a decent business available for machinists with the equipment to do the job properly. My question is. Can I accept slide only (no frame or receiver or other serialized parts) into my shop to CNC mill the slide for rmr? Or does this constitute being in the "gun business"?  I have sent an e-mail to the ATF with this very same question but, I dont know when I will hear back from them. As far as I can read from any of the ATF frequently asked Q&A I can do such business. I could also for example make parts such as charging handles, handguards etc.. However, I dont want to be on the wrong side of the laws. I will not take any answer as an offer of legal advice. Merely asking the question to know if I should proceed with paying someone for a official interpretation of the law.
    • By Cereza
      I'm asking this on behalf of my husband, who recently purchased his first firearm.
       
      He cleaned it following the manual along with a YouTube video. Both said to put a single drop of oil at 7 points. He used the bottle of Hoppe's 9 Lubricating Oil that came with his kit (this one: http://www.hoppes.com/cleaning-kits/more/rifle-kit-with-aluminum-rod ) to do that. The first time, which was after he bought it home from the shop, he realized he used too-large drops and wasn't surprised when he saw some leakage. When he cleaned the firearm after his trip to the range, he focused on using smaller drops, but there was still leakage. 
       
      Both times he noticed oil on the side of the frame that faced down in the case during storage, and on the ejection port. Handling it and working the slide a few times after the second cleaning, he also noticed some oil near the takedown lever (which is on the up side during storage).
       
      Should he be cleaning/oiling less frequently, or should he be using a different oil (or at least a different application method for the oil)? Or is this normal?
    • By Gunnz
      Anyone on the forums a certified Smith and Wesson armorer?
       
      I am selling my M&P40c, which has an APEX FSS trigger, and want to take out it and put back in the stock trigger.
      Matt from Shore shot installed it, he was a certified armor, but has since moved away from NJ..
       
      I am decent enough to mess with my glocks, but don't feel comfortable enough to mess with the M&P.
       
      Thanks for looking.
  • Posts

×
×
  • Create New...