Good sharpener (home use, and/or pocket sharpener)

[TooBigToFit 2]

I was given a Leatherman Wave as a gift a while back when I graduated from the fire academy. I carry it every day, and use it a decent amount, and it sucks at holding an edge.

 

I had a friend sharpen it less than a month ago, and he got it real sharp. Now, it's dull again. I have a pocket sharpener from Smiths (got it from Cabelas for $10), and it's less than useless. Doesn't do a single thing, unless perhaps I'm using it wrong.

 

I'm looking around for a good sharpener. I certainly don't mind a kit designed to be used at home, but I would also like something that I can use on the go (a nice pocket sized sharpener).

[1563621 388]

Look for a filet knife sharpener, double sided sticks. coarse and fine. Can be turned when not working any more.

[Malice4you 627]

Spyderco Sharpmaker kit is around $50, a bit steep perhaps, but it is one of the best sharpening kits out there and will sharpen both plain and serrated edge blades.  Basic kit includes a set of medium and a set of fine rods.  Once you've mastered it, you can get most blades sharp pretty quickly with this kit.  Besides that you aren't ruining the blade like some cheap sharpeners, you can sharpen knives at different angles (say, kitchen knives), and even tools if you're so inclined.  I've had my kit for 5-6 years, sharpened probably over 1000 times using the kit... 

This is less than I paid for my kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPYDERCO-KNIVES-TRIANGLE-SHARPMAKER-KNIFE-SHARPENER-NEW-IN-PACK-GREAT-SALE-PRICE-/120937426197?pt=Collectible_Knives&hash=item1c286ead15

 

Spyderco also makes diamond rods for taking a lot of material off quickly, and ultra fine rods for a further refined edge...however neither of these are required, just useful if you do a lot of sharpening.

 

 

As for a pocket sharpener, I have used a DMT folding sharpener in the past with decent results.  Only downside is it cannot sharpen serrated blades.  I know Sears has/had them before, mine are Craftsman branded.  I believe this is the same thing:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DMT-F70F-Diamond-Mini-Sharp-Whetstone-Sharpener-Pocket-Size-Fine-Grit-/271265579526?pt=US_Knives_Tools&hash=item3f28b04206

 

 

 

 

As for your Wave itself...I hardly use my Wave's blades, but they are the best 400 series blades I've ever used...including for edge holding...  However, under heavy use, I've never been especially happy with any 400 series steels I have used...  I dunno how you're using yours, but you might consider an additional knife with a better steel for cutting tasks if you're not happy with the edge retention of the Wave.  You also get the benefit of much faster access with a pocketknife, if you carry the Wave in the pouch it comes with (like I do).

 

For knives designed for emergency responders (and featuring serrated only blades), look into Byrd Rescue models ($20-35), or Spyderco Rescue 79 ($~55), Rescue 93 ($~65), or Assist ($~75) models.

For a more general purpose blade, most Byrd models ($15-35), the Spyderco Delica ($~55), Endura ($~65), Tenacious ($~40), or Native ($~60) offer plain edge and some offer combo edges.

The Byrds and Tenacious use a decent inexpensive steel (8Cr13MoV), which sharpens and holds an edge easier than 400 series steels do.  The Rescue 79/93, Assist, Delica, and Endura generally use VG10 steel, which is a much better steel for edge retention taking an edge quickly.  The Native usually uses CPMS30V, a good steel that takes a little more effort to sharpen than VG10, but holds an edge well, perhaps even better than VG10. 

 

Hope something in this post helps...

[Sht 3]

The best bang for your buck is the spyderco sharpmaker for sure. If you really get into it the wicked edge is the shit! You could also go the water stone route.

[Wolfjon 0]

I will also agree on the sypderco sharpmaker, I got one a few months ago and it is absolutely great at getting my knifes razor sharp.

[Worn_Holster 2]

I worked as a chef for years and tried all the gimmicks and fancy sharpening systems. I ended up with a Norton triple stone http://www.mscdirect.com/product/05139001?src=pla&008=-99&007=Search&pcrid=25122928984&006=25122928984&005=53303976304&004=7506847984&002=2167139&mkwid=s4VKG3d0U%7Cdc&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test_s4VKG3d0U_PLA__25122928984_c_S&026=-99&025=c which is the last knife sharpener that 'll ever need. They make a shorter version which costs a lot less. http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Sharpening-Systems-and-Kits-P31C18.aspx?gclid=CNHTjKCziroCFY-Z4AodGWYApA

[joshroz2 4]

Just get a good stone or 2 and take the time to learn how to put an edge on. It will be better in the long run.

[pTr939 0]

+1 on spyderco sharpmaker.  idiot proof, mess proof since no liquid is involved, portable, and upgradable.. even comes with a DVD that explains how to sharpen a variety edges like scissors, chisels, serrated knives, exacto knives, etc.

[NJNeuteredMags 0]

Definitely the Spyderco Sharpmaker: http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=77

[Norseman 2]

I have a spyderco sharpmaker and couldn't be more pleased. My great grandfather could pick a rock off the ground, spit on it and sharpen a pocketknife to razor sharpness. I've spent countless hours trying to figure out how to use sharpening stones and finally through in the towel and got a sharpmaker. Now all my blades are razor sharp. I keep them sharp by just running through the steps only doing 10 swipes per side instead of 25-50 whatever the video says. It just tickles me inside knowing how easy I keep my edges razor sharp - no lie.

 

 

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[Tack Tickle 0]

Spyderco Sharpmaker is the way to go if you are going to keep it at your house. It is about 8"x3". It is an amazing tool for keeping your blades sharp.

 

For field work, this is the way to go below. The Fallkniven 2 sided sharpener. One side is diamond stone and the other is a ceramic made from synthetic sapphire. Description is below.

 

 

 

The newly-developed DC4 whetstone consists of a fine diamond stone (25 micron) and a very special ceramic stone, made of synthetic sapphires. The advantage of these materials, although they get worn, will still keep their flat shape this is important when you sharpen your knife. And, since these materials are the hardest we know of, they will sharpen any steel, even these extremely hard powder steels.

[Old Glock guy 1,127]

Based on the recommendations in this thread, I ordered a Spyderco Sharpmaker from Amazon. Just received it yesterday, and tried it out on couple of my folders. Seemed to work pretty well, once I figured out how to use it.

[djg0770 481]

I can't hold a bevel properly across a stone to save my life.  I went with the KME Sharp system.  Bonus (at least to me) was that the company is out of NJ.  I have been exceptionally happy with the system so far.

[TonyS. 12]

I've used just about every system out there for sharpening my knives. I've wasted more $ on sharpening systems than most people have spent on knives! IMO the two best methods out are Razorsharp paper wheels and the Edgepro, either their Apex or Pro models. Paper wheels are great for quick sharp   edges where you care more about sharp edges than exact bevel angles. The Edgepro is for consistent and sharp as hell edges. I've sold or given away all the other systems except my paper wheels and my Edgepro. I can't ever see having to buy another system again.

[Dan 177]

I just received and used a Worksharp Ken Onion edition belt sharpener. http://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WSKTS-KO-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B00EJ9CQKA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422892479&sr=8-1&keywords=worksharp+ken+onion

 

I have to say I've finally found something that is quick, easy, and produces excellent results. This is coming from someone who dislikes sharpening knives and has tried at least 3 other "systems" and either sucked at using them, took too much effort, or didn't perform.

 

My advice in using this is to go slowly and follow all the instructions. Its not something you want to jump into without RTFM'ing as you could ruin a knife easily if you go mach 10 with the coarse grit.

[Newtonian 453]

Guys, I'm very interested in this thread. I've purchased two sharpeners, of the BB&B variety, and they both suck.

 

I realize you get what you pay for, but some of these rigs are pretty expensive. Does anyone have any insight into really good values for sharpening kitchen knives and a few pocket knives?

[Zeke 5,504]

I have the original work sharp. Ugly point rounding. Maybe it's me?

I use a lansky for the most part. Work sharp for axes and such

 

Keen edge takes time

[Dan 177]

I have the original work sharp. Ugly point rounding. Maybe it's me?

I use a lansky for the most part. Work sharp for axes and such

 

Keen edge takes time

 

User error sorry to say. There is a section in the manual that explains the sharpening technique to use in order to avoid rounding out the point.

[Bishop 0]

The leatherman will dull fast .. not the hardest steel, its a step up from a swiss.
If you want the edge to have a bit more retention, maybe widen the angle a bit for more shoulders or put a secondary bevel on it.
Just so much you can do with that blade .... its light utility.
On the plus side, it sharpens easy as its soft.

Sharpmaker may be the best out there for the price.
Takes time, some learning curve, there are additional rods ... extra fine, coarse.
Great traveler to boot.

After all the hand machines I've used, if you want something more than that, and spend MORE .... Wicked Edge ... hands down the most control available, to the nth degree, expandable, modifiable, but at a price.
Base model: https://www.wickededgeusa.com/product/wicked-edge-precision-sharpener/

 

Their forum would give you some great insite if interested to see what folks are actually doing with it.

Cuts your sharpening time in half compared to Edgepro, which is a great Sharpener, but they seem to have stopped developing, with the WEPS just knocking it out of the park in the R&D.

 

The new version .... all the bells and whistles and yes they are all that, but also, even guided and expensive ... learning curve:
https://www.wickededgeusa.com/product/generation-3-pro/

For precision, its the Ferrari.

 

We are talking about the highest end out there though. You want to do your Sebanzas? .... there's your answer.
Overkill for a leatherman

On the other hand, A harbor freight $30 1 x 30 belt sander, some quality belts ...... learning curve and work fast not to overheat, plenty of vids on YT ... and you can do more than you ever thought for the price.
Worth it just to have a leather belt and compound for honing and fast touchup/deburr in the garage.
Just keep it cool ... move smooth and fast ... keep a water bucket handy if you're reprofiling.
All types of belts out there cheap.

And like Splat says, RazorSharp wheels ..... mount them on a cheap harbor freight buffer. I actually think the wheels run truer and smoother on the faster 3200 rpm.
You get good on it, you're making slight hollow grind razors in no time out of old kitchen knives.

You can even first sharpen on the 1 x 30, changing belts to get where you want. Then use the slotted paper wheel with compound to deburr and polish .... cheap, fast ... but you have to be careful and learn on them.
You're moving at around 3200 rpm with them.

The grit wheel is no nonsense either, with a good hand you can get a lot done, especially on the not so special stuff.
Both systems though, you have both hands on the knife and you are the guide, which IMHO, is the better option if you're not clamped.

More flexibility. More room. More control .... just step away.
Rounding then is not a problem.

Other than that, a slower 1750 rpm 1 x 42 Kalamazoo ... bolder moter ... bullet proof .. lasts for ever ... doesn't break the bank ..... ? $240???? ish.
1 x 42 gives you a good variety of belts to play with .. into the sub micron category even. A great workhorse for lots and lots of things.

That's about it, besides the WEPS, in the "don't break the bank" category.

 

Tormex, better for the carpenter but nice as its a water bath, no dust .. but pricey and only semi-guided.
Also limited for knife use.

Then there's always stones.

More loot will give you more control and quality tools, but all else pretty much remains the same.
You either go guided, or freehand, or combo.


Just my 2 cents worth.