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Lambo2936

Stuck hex screw on savage 111 bolt :/

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I know this is common, but i cant for the life of me get this thing off. Can i *safely* use an electric heat gun (no flame) to try and loosen the bolt? What temp is good, it has hi/lo settings that go way up there. Any other suggestions? Its a used rifle i picked up from heritage. Thing must have never been disassembled. Thanks in advance.

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Impact drivers work because the drive the screw bit into the screw with each impact.  They don't just turn the screw with each impact, they force the bit tightly into the screw slot with each impact.  Because of this,they do not tend to slip and damage screw slots.  Assuming the set screw metal is hard enough to handle the impact without deforming and that you have a driver bit that fits tightly, this sounds like a good option to me.

 

A heat gun will never put out enough heat to make a difference.  A pencil type torch only burns for a minute or so but they can concentrate heat in a small area.   I've used copper sheeting as a heat shield before to protect everything around a fastener but aluminum foil would do the same job if you work quickly.

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The heat gun i have hits 1350 degrees. Im thinking impact driver as well. Anyone also agree? I believe itll work. Been pushing on the allen key like hell and it wont go and not even a scratch on the hex so id think its good?

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It must be rusted. Use patience and apply a little liquid wrench every day, being careful not to get any on the finish.

tap on the screw a few times a day to help work the liquid wrench into the threads to cut the rust.

 

With patience,  it will eventually come out. If you rush it, you will either strip the head or break the screw.

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The screw that holds the bolt handle and entire bolt together, no idea what its called. 1/4" key to open it. Tried with impact, didnt work and gave up for now. The rifle is in fair condition, with maybe 1 or 2 spots that have minor blemishes/rust/something. Previous owner didnt seem to clean it very often, IMO, though. Would WD40 work, or no good? I dripped a bit of rem oil on the screw and let it sit like that. Open to suggestions, haha.

 

 

The screw is on the head/tip of the bolt, inline with the firing pin, btw, to be more specific.

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Btw, my fairly powerful impact gun was just hammering away in place and wouldnt budge even a bit. Cant break it off, even if i tried to LOL. Just cleaned the rest for now and put some rem oil on it. Id like to try wd40 not am not sure how the internal components will react. Im not familiar with bolt action rifles and had to google how to disassemble one. Didnt get past step 1.. lol

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If you're going to go the penetrating oil route, use real penetrating oil, not WD-40.  I've been working in machinery maintenance for 25+ years.  I have not had a lot of luck depending on penetrating oil.  I've used it a lot, I just haven't ever been convinced that it made much of a difference.  There has never been an a-ha moment where I sprayed something that was stuck on Friday night and came in Monday morning to have it suddenly loosened up and removable by normal methods.  In fact, I don't think I've ever finally gotten something apart and found that penetrating oil had even penetrated the threads on a stubborn fastener.

 

My preferences for a stuck fastener:

 

Heat (apply with torch or weld a nut onto the end)

Impact (hammer, chisel, impact driver)

drill it out and use an ez-out tool

drill it out with a left hand drill bit (which sometimes bites the fastener and turns it out as you drill)

drill it out and chisel, hammer, file, or saw out whatever pieces of the fastener are left in the threads

drill it out to a larger size and re-tap to a larger fastener size.

drill it out to a larger size and re-tap it with a thread repair tool and install a threaded insert to get back to the same fastener size.

 

Unfortunately, most set screws with a socket head are pretty hard.   That eliminates drilling without the right kinds of bit and a drill press.  And even with the right tools, it's common to end up with a broken drill bit stuck in the fastener - which doesn't improve your situation much.   You already gave impact the old college try.  I think you're left with heat.

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Have you tried to tighten the fastener? I know it's counterintuitive but I have had occasional success after attempting to tighten and then going back to the loosening operation.

 

http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f18/disassembly-reassembly-savage-10-bolt-50826/

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My advice is soak it using penetrating oil, WD40, Kroil, PB Blaster, whatever. Patience, patience patience. Everyday give it a shot of the impact and keep soaking. Don't push it. I predict three days and it will come out. Just my humble opinion based on long hard cursing experience.

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I have had heads of bolts strip or twist off.   I've welded a different bolt to them and that always works but in one case, I drove the next larger bit into the hex head and used JB weld to hold it there.  Once it hardened, I used a bigger wrench and was able to get it out.

 

If the head isn't messed up, I agree with the above.  Soak it.  You can always drill it out later.

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I once had success with a hot/cold application. I heated the screw then froze it afew times thinking the expansion,contraction cycle would break whatever microscopic weld. For the cold app I used a can of compressed air upside down and the propellant comes out icy cold. May be a bogus theory but the screw came out soon after.

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I actually saw a post where someone suggested compressed air upside down to freeze the thing. Wonder if thatd work. Im worried about doing permanent damage, otherwise id heat it or freeze it, etc.

 

The head is in perfect condition, not evem a scratch after trying with a standard key and the impact. Any suggestions on a good penetrating oil? Maybe ill try that for a few days. Can i stick the whole bolt in tupperware/just the handle and such part of it or is that a no go?

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I have had heads of bolts strip or twist off. I've welded a different bolt to them and that always works but in one case, I drove the next larger bit into the hex head and used JB weld to hold it there. Once it hardened, I used a bigger wrench and was able to get it out.

 

If the head isn't messed up, I agree with the above. Soak it. You can always drill it out later.

 

Done tons of stuff like that, drilling out bolts and screws etc.

Big difference between on a vehicle or the likes and a "precision" firearm. Not quite sure drilling and retapping it is an option. Haha

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I once had success with a hot/cold application. I heated the screw then froze it afew times thinking the expansion,contraction cycle would break whatever microscopic weld. For the cold app I used a can of compressed air upside down and the propellant comes out icy cold. May be a bogus theory but the screw came out soon after.

I was just starting to say the same kinda thing. Heat cycle it. You're not in any hurry here.  Do you have a soldering iron? Try holding the iron to the bolt till its crazy hot. Then let it cool off totally. Maybe add some Liquid Wrench or sometime that will wick down the treads. Then replete the heat cycle. Use one of these and tap it a few times. This is perhaps the best thing to help free stuck/rusted screws I've ever used. Get one!

 http://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B0002NYDRG?ie=UTF8&keywords=hand%20impact%20wrench&qid=1463922691&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

 Have patience or you'll be taking to the gunsmith for sure.

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Done tons of stuff like that, drilling out bolts and screws etc.

Big difference between on a vehicle or the likes and a "precision" firearm. Not quite sure drilling and retapping it is an option. Haha

 

If it's stuck, drilling and tapping may end up being the only option.  Shrug.  Worst case you buy a new bolt.  Does it really need to come off anyway?

 

I do fine work with machinery as well as car stuff and sometimes you have to end up leaving something alone until it grenades then you replace the entire assembly.    If heat isn't doing it, and a good soak doesn't help...there's not much left.

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Woodbridge. Spend time often enough in East brunswick and occasionally work in Newark. I'll have to try the heat and pb blaster. I should have a soldering iron and a pencil torch. Ill try one of those.

 

Bolt doesnt HAVE to come off, i just wanted to be thorough and clean it up as ive heard of the fine parts rusting if improperly maintained, and im the kinda guy that breaks the thing down to bare pieces after each trip to the range.

 

Not a huge deal, its a popular enough rifle that i can replace the bolt later on or just sell it for parts and get a new rifle if/when it fails. Eventually ill be getting a rem 700 to replace it anyways.

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I was thinking about offering to throw a pneumatic impacting wrench on it.

If it wont budge from my 18v impact, i wont risk that lol. Ill have to pick up pb blaster when i am back from out of state and play with it.

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