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The brew guy

Who can repair a shotgun stock?

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Had a stock crack today while shooting clays. It's all the way through, when I removed the bolt it came off in 2 pieces. I spent a few hours and found exactly zero new or used replacements available, so I'm going to need to get this one put back together. I thought about attempting it myself, and I haven't ruled that out yet, but I'm leaning toward having it done right, anyone have a recommendation in the central to northern part of the state? Any idea what I should expect it to cost?

 

Edited for typos.

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Any local Furniture refinisher should be able to repair

it for you.

Best to used dowels or biscuits and a good glue, then

sand and refinish if needed.....

Yup! If you end up doing it yourself, simple enough to use dowels and some liquid nails/high strength wood glue. Just take your time so you dont mess up your holes.

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Hmmm... The Stock Doctor is only a mile or so out of the way on my route home from work...

 

I had thought about using metal to pin it, but I'm hoping for a blind repair. I have some acraglass, I hadn't thought of using it as an adhesive.

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While you're doing your repair, determine WHY the stock cracked. Often it is due to poor fitment in the tang area (assuming it's a double,) or if the wood wasn't sealed properly, it would swell from moisture. Recoil through the tang will spilt a poor-fitting stock resulting in firewood. 

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I'm assuming it was from previous damage. It's a 1969 Franchi Aristocrat (marked silverskeet, but they were notorious for "creative markings" back then) that I picked up very reasonably due to the condition of the stock. The finish has issues and there was a chip missing. I filled the chip with acraglass and it survived for a while, but the break starts at that chip so I assume it was the cause.

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Definitely get that threaded brass pin kit from Brownells, and use epoxy.  Do multiple pins, so the thing doesn't break again.  You might need longer pins than the Brownell's kit - basically you are buying brass threaded rod.  Brass is used because it's easier to file flush with the wood after.

 

Next time if it starts cracking, fix that crack before it breaks all the way.  Much easier to pin it when it is still in one piece.  Drill, inject epoxy to fill the crack from the outside in, then chuck up a pin and drill that in there, cut almost flush with the wood surface and file the brass down flat with the wood surface.  Repeat 2 or even 3 times depending on how strong it has to be.

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I agree that reinforcement with metal is needed, brass sounds best, but after watching a ton of videos on repairs, threaded rod in general seems to be acceptable. The problem I'm seeing is that the area is quite thin and the hole for the stock bolt runs up the center, leaving little wood in which to install the metal.

If it were just a matter of not wanting to spend for a replacement, I'd be more comfortable with DIY, but I can't find a replacement at any price so failure is not an option. I'm leaning toward stopping by to visit Mr. Yanchok on my way home from work tomorrow. He doesn't have much of a web presence, anyone know his hours?

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Nick, I agree that it's a tough spot to repair, that's why I'm leaning towards letting a pro handle it. If it is salvageable now, it won't be salvageable after a botched repair. I don't go often, three rounds in the last year, and this is a back-up (my son uses it when he is with me) so it isn't used regularly. I've heard of having a stock made to fit, sounds pricey, and I haven't found much info other than high end stuff. Any idea what it might run for something"user grade?"

 

Parker, that link is one of 3 I've found that "might fit." It's listed as double trigger, mine is single, but it's probably worth an email to ask.

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Well, I'm going to give it a shot myself. The long term plan is to find a NOS or good used stock, but if that doesn't pan out I'll look into having a replacement made. A replacement may require a template so I may as well try putting this one back together and if it seems sturdy enough, I might even try shooting it.

The Acroglass and brass method seems to be the way to go, the problem is that the hole for the stock bolt only has a half inch or so of material around it and that isn't much once you start perforating it to insert pins. I decided that looking at the hole as an obstacle wasn't helping things so I had to find a way to use the hole to my advantage. I've opened the hole up to accommodate a 1/4" ID by 3" brass pipe nipple and am working to perfect the fit before mixing the acroglass.

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