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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    So this thread title should read: Paypal - NO GO
  2. 2 points
    ...ok......everything you typed had max in it...... Never mind......i am done.... gud luck.... Sheesh..... As a side note...you have 100's of years of experience here and you are nothing but combative... ..from a funny meme.... I have neither the time nor the crayons to explain this more to you....
  3. 2 points
    I’ve seen a similar method with a piece of uncooked spaghetti.
  4. 1 point
    Listen to the man there @Greenday.... @Old School..... greenhorn and you are like comparing the new years eve baby and methuselah Lol
  5. 1 point
    its just funny because messing around with it.. blowing air through it.. and all that.. I was SURE it was lined up... and it was at least partially lined up.. since air was getting through.. but once I had it fully lined up... problem solved... when you are dealing with holes that small.. being off even a little bit is going to add restriction.. and that restriction can be the difference between function no function..
  6. 1 point
    I had a problem similar to this once.. and I used a very similar way to line up the gas block.. guess what.. it was misaligned.. I came up with a really ghetto way to line up the gas block.. it works perfectly 100% of the time.. but you have to be careful.. take a piece of soft solder that fits in the gas port.. cut it flush with the barrel.. turn the barrel over so it falls out.. and measure it.. this will be important later.. put it back in with the gun right side up.. slide on the gas block.. turn the gun upside down again... move the gas block around until the solder drops into the gas block which will lock it up.. at this point you know the block is aligned... pin or tighten it down.. however it is.. now take a cleaning rod and GENTLY bend the solder that is in the barrel.. this will allow it to fall into the barrel... and fall out.. once it is out measure it again and make sure you recovered all of the solder.. It sounds complicated but in practice it's not.. and it works 100%..
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Just an experience that happened recently. I was loading 45acp with CFE Pistol, Hodgdon says w/ a 200gr SWC 7.4-8.2grs So I'm no green horn....I load 7.8grs. Toooo Hot! Not blow up the gun hot but flat primers and not real tight groups. But it's a 1911. Don't like a steady diet of hot, plus I want a soft accurate load. I go down to 7.4grs. much better but a little stiffer than I want for quick follow up shots. accuracy pretty good. Now I'm gonna drop another .2grs and dare not go below that. I still have reasonable case volume so not too concerned. Essentially I consider reloading manuals a source/guide with loads that won't blow your face off. But, starting loads are there for a reason. BTW my bullet selection and COL are within spec. Just my $.02
  9. 1 point
    A lot of people funk around with max loads because they never get the velocities they state in manuals. I am a little guilty of this myself... but great care is taken to not go over the max load for any reason. As stated things start to pressurize much quicker with fewer powder added... some types being more forgiving than others. In most my handguns, i get no where near the stated velocities for titegroup. And subsequently they are loaded at max, group great, and have factory velocities.. I hear people have similar issues with CFE in .223.. But i know Titegroup will over pressurize way quicker over max then squeezing out an addition 20fps... clearly not worth the chance. The biggest issue is that pressure can spike quickly with a few tenths of a grain over max, like major spikes, and you only see a marginal increase in velocities. This is why starting low and working your way up will give you the actual "curve" of velocity to powder. And YOU get to see if adding a .1grn of powder is even worth it. My biggest fear with going over max, as others have said, is the accuracy of your loading including your scale.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Yes, we try to help the inexperienced with our years of knowledge, but he's a Millennial, and thinks he knows everything.
  12. 1 point
    But that's NOT what you're doing, if fact you don't even want to listen to experience here, and rather think you know more... which could end up with a very serious misjudgement.
  13. 1 point
    Again what is the benefit of a max loading.... As i said...a ww2 1903a3...send 150gr pills at 100 very very accurately...at loading that is slightly less than min. I am not saying that near max might not be your guns load...but what is the obsession with max. When you get to max and above, everything and i mean everything else better be spot in perfect as you are tickling the tale of the dragon... Agreed and while it *is* greenday...lol we owe it to help him for safeties sake
  14. 1 point
    He's going to severely injure himself or kill someone nearby....
  15. 1 point
    300-400 is the low end for a 39A. In that price range, expect 50% blueing, pitting and probably a few rust spots and handling/use marks, maybe even a crack or chip in the furniture. A nice 39A with 90%, or better blueing, minimal handling marks no rust, little pitting, sharp rifling, in that condition, 500-700 is about right. A pristine unfired or barely used example could easily sell for 800-1200. Of all the AR-7s, the Charter Arms may have been the worst. They sell for very little, unless it's NIB or LNIB condition, then only a collector will pay a decent price for that gun. For it's intrinsic value, the CA is worth about 150-200. If you want an AR-7, you are better off buying a new Henry. The Nylon 66 is a good buy at 250-350. I recall reading that some years had trouble with extractors, but it's easily fixed.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    The 39A depends on condition...wood sights bore bluing...octogon or round barrel profile There are many variations...300 400 depends Pics help a lot ..
  19. 1 point
    If it's legal to wake up one day and proclaim my gender has changed, surely this should also be legal! I hereby proclaim that all members of this board are my brothers and sisters! Therefore, you may all sell me your long arms with only a COE! Watcha got?
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Keanu kicks Stallone's ass. Really dumbfounded that he is THAT anti-gun. wow. Maybe he got hit in the head one too many times.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Measure the damn gas port hole on the barrel. If it is short stroking with a carbine weight buffer, it's likely going to short stroke with a rifle weight buffer. If the barrel was intended for a soft shooting set up, it may be undersized and expect you to have a lightened carrier and reduced weight buffer. For example a nordic components 18" barrel ships with an undersized gas port for that reason. If it's small you have two choices. Lightened components or drill it out. If you (or someone you know) can get dealer pricing from brownells their in house lightened one is cheap. $80 ($125 if you have to pay retail). https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/bolt-parts/bolt-carrier-groups/m16-5-56-lightweight-bolt-carrier-group-prod116267.aspx
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Good doctor - I kind of agree and disagree. The thing that can screw you up is if there is a carbon deposit built up at the base of the pocket. If so your primer may not seat properly. Other than that, minimal positive benefits are experienced. Now in my experience most benchrest guys do clean and uniform primer pockets and flash hole. But they're crazy anyways.
  29. 1 point
    been reloading for years never owned or even shot over a chronograph I think I saw one at a range once
  30. 1 point
    Go Ruger. I have a MK2 Target with thousands upon thousands of rounds through it. Extremely accurate at 25+ yards, barely any recoil, eats any brand of ammo. That grip angle reduces recoil and points back on target fast. Except no substitute!
  31. 0 points
    So I'm looking for a Rise Armament drop in trigger and a set of Decibullz percussion earplugs. Did a search and Gander Outoors pops up and they accept Paypal which is just what I'm looking for. Good price plus 10% off. Put the stuff in my cart, try to check out and paypal doesn't come up as a payment option even though the site says it's accepted. Tried it several times with the same results. So I empty the cart, put a sweatshirt in it and go to check out and paypal shows as a payment option. Turns out paypal is not firearm friendly and apparently won't allow it to be used for firearm accessories. Guess I'm shopping elsewhere. On a side note does anyone have any experience with either the trigger (RA-140 SST) or the ear plugs.


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