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farmerkd1

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About farmerkd1

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  • Birthday 01/14/1963

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  1. WOW! Went to the Springfield Museum once... you had them beat by a mile!
  2. "...to finish the collection." LOL! That was funny! ... oh, and maybe a Win-13, a gas trap, Pre-War SA, WWII era, Post-War SA, a couple Sniper variances, Tanker, Beretta BM-59... "No one can eat just one!" Best of luck on your Winny, all it takes is money!
  3. I noticed. Also noticed he did it after he ordered everyone to isolate so there wouldn't be any pesky demonstrators like last time. (You know; We the People). On the same day he also ordered the May general and special elections postponed just to make sure that you can't vote 'em out either!
  4. I really like these stainless steel springs. Only 8 bucks at Orion's. (agree this is most likely culprit). http://www.m1garand.com/store/m1_garand_orion7_17-7stainless-steel_operating_rod_spring.html I may have some extra, I'll send you a PM...
  5. Looks like you're only looking for 12gu, but you also mentioned adapters, (plural) so I wasn't sure. Don't have one for 12gu, but do have a new one in the box for 20gu. if you're interested.
  6. As a lefty, I've fired a lot of right-handed AR-15/M-16's without issue except for the original M-16's in basic, (they didn't have a brass deflector and definitely had the problems you described -- brass across the eyebrows, brass down the shirt, etc). I believe all the models now have that brass deflector and I really don't notice the ejections if I'm concentrating on the target, even on M-4's in auto, (burst). Since you already ordered, that's great, but in the future you may want to try someone's RH version just to try it out.
  7. While it is normal to assist it the last portion of travel, the bolt should usually go most of the way on its own, (but not all do, I guess). Proper lube is a biggie, but what really made the difference on all of mine is a new op rod spring. The Stainless Steel springs from Orion 7 are great for only $8, (Sarco has them too). M1 Thumb is a definite danger with the new springs, and I never have to assist with the op rod handle.
  8. A Savage .22/.410 was my first gun, and I think they're the best to start a kid out with. I also have a Savage .22/20gu and a Stevens .22/.410. All three were made in the 1940's but are excellent as there's nothing really to wear out. Used to use it pheasant hunting and could switch over to .22 if a rabbit popped out, or a coyote. Same with deer hunting; have a slug in the shotgun chamber, but can pop a squirrel with the .22 if they prove too tempting. They're a basic single-shot, so an awesome gun to teach safety and marksmanship to a kid with. You seem them sometimes on Gunbroker for fairly low prices. Rossi, H&R, and Marlin also make them. Marlin has some high-power calibers too.
  9. Silverado, Any idea how much that was? The speedo only went to 120, but when I buried my '67 SS396 once, my dad was following and clocked it at 147 and I'm sure it had a little more in it, but it was pretty light in the front end by then and I was a little chicken. :-) IIRCC after 120 the needle just lays horizontal and almost out of view.
  10. Yes, 11-48 barrels will work, as well as Sportsman 48 barrels, (Mohawks were built after the other two were discontinued, supposedly out of the leftover parts). I love my Mohawk - really simple, really reliable - but I'd have to agree with Old School about being careful; a new barrel will set you back as much as the whole gun is worth. Unless it has some sentimental value, or you can find a good deal on a bbl, it might not be worth it.
  11. It's a pretty common problem - Google "7th Round Stoppage" for a bunch of info on it. Clip latch spring seems to be the most common and easiest fix. You can order a stronger one from Fulton Armory, or maybe borrow a few parts from someone to figure out what's causing it.
  12. Sure makes this a bit of a mystery. The barrel absolutely has the SA drawing number for an original USGI 30.06. If it were modified by the military they definitely would have stamped it 7.62. But from your test it sure sounds like it's modified for .308, (1/2 inch shorter). So it MUST have a chamber insert or "Navy Sleeve" even though it's not visable in the photo. The Navy considered the sleeve a failure as it would sometimes extract with the empty shell and caused a dangerous situation as the next .308 round would slide into the now 30.06 chamber, but for every person that says sleeves don't work, there is another who swears they do. (I don't know). My guess is that whoever refinished the rifle also put in either a Navy or commercial insert. I wouldn't jump to that conclusion yet. It would really be helpful to have an expert look at it. Can you shine a light down the chamber to see if you see a fine outline of an insert? (It would be helpful to get all that grease out of there for a better look at the chamber). Did you ask your father-in-law if he ever shot it and what he used? Or if he knows who may have converted it? If you're going to send it out for refinishing, either Dean or Shuff would be able to give you the skinny on this so you know what you're dealing with for sure. Best of luck with it.
  13. This guy does fantastic work. $125 and back to you inside one week. My link Deans is without a doubt one of the best in the buisiness, but a bit more money and MUCH slower turnaround time. Tim Shufflin is very personable and would make it more of a personal transaction and not like dealing with a big company. Can't go wrong either way.
  14. I don't want to insult anyone's intelligence, but just to be sure you know, DON'T SHOOT THAT RIFLE until you get this sorted out. I agree with Edge, I don't see anything at all that points to .308 or 7.62 conversion so I think it's still 30.06. I've NEVER seen one (conversion) that didn't have the barrel stamped, (even if only the insert was added they still restamp the barrel). If it is 30.06, it wasn't a good idea for someone to put that op rod on it, but if it was converted, the op rod is a poor choice of locations to mark it as it could be changed out too easily. It's hard to tell from only two pix, but the finish looks strange on it too. It looks like some kind of paint or coating that has been chipped or started peeling off. Parker would not do that. The only reason I bring it up is that it may show that someone that isn't one of the "usual" Garand gunsmiths has worked on it. Maybe they did a non-standard conversion as well as a non-standard finish? Either way, it looks like a real decent rifle and the price was certainly right! Once you figure out which round to stick in it, you should have a very good gun, but definitely put a 30.06 round in it and see if it chambers. Good luck!
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