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Pew Pew Plates

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Pew Pew Plates last won the day on October 1 2011

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About Pew Pew Plates

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    NJGF Cornerstone
  • Birthday 01/18/1989

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    Port Murray
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    Shongum

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  1. You may want to consider doing a time study on doing it your way vs letting it rotate and doing one whole round at a time. The reason I say this is that you're handling the brass 4 times more. If each time you're handling it adds one second, that's 4 seconds your way vs 1 second the normal way. I don't see any time savings in disabling the auto rotate, so for every 100 rounds you're adding 300 seconds or 5 minutes which adds up because that's 50 minutes per 1k.
  2. I started with the breech lock single stage, then I got the lee turret, and then "graduated" to a Dillon 650 with most of the bells & whistles. The single stage I still use, I use it for all my rifle reloading and also for depriming. I use it to deprime only because I'm OCD and wet tumble so it makes clean primer pockets and dries easier. You mention several pistol calibers, I would avoid doing these on a single stage. As a newcomer to reloading, I would also avoid doing these on a progressive (there's just too much going on). The turret is the "sweet spot" of speed and ease while maintaining cost effectiveness since it doesn't really cost much more than the single stage. With a turret I can do about 100 rounds an hour, I haven't timed the single stage with pistol rounds but it will be noticeably slower. You lose some of the speed advantage with rifle rounds on turrets and progressives because you have other case prep like trimming that interrupts the cycle. This is why I just take it a little slower and enjoy the benefits of the accuracy of the single stage although this is a preference thing, many people reload rifle rounds on turrets and progressives. I've dabbled with "blaster" 30-06 on my turret but I find it's barely any faster than doing batch work on the single stage. If you really want to reload all those calibers to start, I'd get both presses. Set the turret up for your pistol calibers and set the single stage up for the rifle calibers. You'll enjoy a little bit of the best of both worlds and the additional expense will be >$100. You'll also always have a use for both. I use all three presses (breech lock single, turret, and progressive) as they all have their own benefits and drawbacks. I do my high volume pistol on the 650, low volume pistol (.500 S&W, 8mm Nambu) on the turret, rifle on my single stage, and like i mentioned I do depriming on the single as well (and swaging if necessary).
  3. Unless it's different than the comp, no, you don't need rod anymore. By the way, they recommend 12-16" out of an abundance of caution. If you find it loads too stiff or won't release a round when you hit the release button, then you can trim that spring waaaaaaay down. I bought a couple of springs to test one to failure, I didn't get a failure until the spring was about 0.75" protruding from the end of the tube. I settled on 1.25" protruding, a 50% cushion, and I saved the old one as a gauge.
  4. I think the 3" defense is a pretty weak one, I'd set it up to hold 6+1 of 2-3/4" if it were mine, but I am not a lawyer and that's entirely up to you. If it makes you feel any better, I believe you can make a small cut on the bottom of the bolt to allow a ghost load. This means a 6+1 shotgun is really a 6+1+1 so you can have 8 in it fully stoked up, legally.
  5. that's how I roll. It's actually my Hungarian M44 that was used during the Hungarian revolution, it has a few names carved into it and I couldn't help but post the one that matches.
  6. Pistol grip doesn't matter, because it's classified as a "pistol gripped shotgun" like the mossberg cruiser, which has a pistol grip and 17" barrel, and is legal in NJ. It's still just a firearm, as it's still not designed to be fired from the shoulder, and the pistol grip doesn't matter because it's not a shotgun so "assault shotgun" rules don't apply.
  7. I have a 1301 comp which mechanically speaking is the same shotgun. It'll eat the 2-3/4 dram (1-1/8oz @ 1145FPS) target loads all day long. When I get much lighter than that my gun doesn't like it, although some people don't have issues. The gun is awesome. It's fast, it handles great, it doesn't stop working. Replace your hammer struts every 10k rounds or so as they will break over time.
  8. Hold the gun tighter. Try what feels to you like a "death grip" until you start shaking and then back off just until the point of the shakes going away. All of what raz-o said is also possible, but if you're new enough to call the extractor the retractor then you probably don't have a proper grip on the gun and that very often causes what you're describing. I doubt anything is wrong with the gun itself.
  9. 20ga 12ga .75 (muzzleloader) .50 (muzzleloader) .45 (muzzleloader) .22 short .22lr .32ACP .38 S&W .38 S&W Special 7.62x25 9x18 Mak 9x19 .45 ACP .500 S&W 5.56/223 7.62x39 5.45x39 7.62x54R .308 30-06 8mm Mauser 7.5x55 Swiss .303 Brit 7.7x58 Jap I use all of them, some more frequent than others You guys that consolidate calibers are no fun :P
  10. Hi Rick!

    Could you please email me your resume and what you're looking for as far as compensation goes, so I can forward to my plant manager?

    My email is glennp@pappironworks.com

    Thank you!

  11. go for it, i've reloaded tons of cases with similar nicks (and worse) with no ill effect.
  12. Do they work fine? I don't think +.002" is going to slam fire but I'm not able to visualize this so I don't know. If it goes bang and not as a slamfire it's good enough. I say good enough because you indicate you're using mixed brass. So if you're trying for max accuracy you should look at the mixed brass situation first (but I'm sorry if I assumed wrong).
  13. I'm shocked and appalled that this is happening. I have a friend who is a fellow WWII reenactor up in NH, and he posted this. He's involved with the museum in question and this is messed up. I'm copying & pasting his own words. Read on at your own peril... and then please share and write to them! "So it turns out the majority of the Board at the Wright Museum of World War II in Wolfeboro, NH have gone through with a gun ban on museum property. This prohibits members of the public, re-enactors, or museum volunteers from holding or possessing guns or edged weapons real or fake all due to a false claim for better image for the museum and "safety". The good members of the board fought hard but were highly outnumbered. I myself a volunteer and re-enactor am now prohibited from doing what everyones been doing for years there as a constitutional right and as part of living history displays. Also included in this gun ban is the deactivation of all firearms in the museum collection including some valuable weapons such as the German MG-34, American M1941 Johnson rifle, and many more are at risk of destruction by means of deactivation because of a half wit policy. Please show support by making your voice heard to the museum to tell them destruction of constitutional rights and WWII history is not permissible! It agonizes me because this museum has been a place of nostalgia and fun for years for myself and many others volunteers or not. We also are prohibited from using blanks in the main guns of our tanks for living history events from now on as part of this ban. The director claims he respects the memory of those who fought in the war, yet by destroying artifacts and ignoring freedoms we know this to not be true. Please help us out by sharing this message and contacting the museum to show the executive director and the board majority that there are many of us out there that actually care about protecting freedom and history!" Wright Museum of World War II contact info. Address: 77 Center St, Wolfeboro, NH 03894 Fb page: https://www.facebook.com/wrightmuseumofwwii/ Museum Phone number: 603-569-1212 Mike Culver, Executive Director contact info: Email: michael.culver@wrightmuseum.org
  14. #1 I would replace the oprod spring with a known good spring. The symptoms of a weak spring are sometimes confused with being under-gassed, because you get such high bolt velocity that it skips the second round or will misfeed. You didn't quite fully explain the details of the malfunction so I don't know if this is more or less applicable. Is the bolt picking up the second round and failing to feed it because it doesn't have enough "oomph"? Or is the bolt picking up the second round and it's jamming? Or is the bolt skipping over the second round completely and returning to battery on an empty chamber? All 3 scenarios could be considered "the bolt not taking up the second round" http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-spring.html https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/recoil-parts/recoil-springs/m1-garand-operating-rod-spring-prod38877.aspx While you have it apart, clean the gas port out with a #47 drill bit. If the port is fouled, gently spin the bit with your fingers as you clean the port. DO NOT USE A POWER TOOL OR A BIT HOLDER. If you're malfunction is from being under-gassed, this is the easy and most likely culprit. Most military surplus .30-06, like the HXP greek, the PS/KA Korean, and the LC is as "garand friendly" as factory ammo gets, from a functioning standpoint. So, I'd rule ammo out of the equation unless you didn't have one of the above "flavors" of surplus. I would say with 90% certainty, if you did both these tweaks, your gun will run. The nice thing is, you should do those two things anyways, so it's a perfect starting point.
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