Pew Pew Plates

Hello, I am not an enfield expert, however, I can say with certainty the stock is unique to the Jungle Carbine. The buttplate is different and the wood has a cut for the sling attachment on the side which is integral to the buttplate. Have you identified if it is a real one or not? The easiest "tale" is to look if there are the proper lightening cuts on the trigger guard forward of the magazine where the screw passes through it. There are also cuts under the upper handguard as well, among other "tales". https://www.libertytreecollectors.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=11932

I have firearms over 100 years old that haven't ever been detail stripped it would appear. They work just fine. Unless something is wrong, field strip it, clean it the best you can, and enjoy.

147 @ ~880 FPS. You could slow it down even more as there's no minimum power factor for 3-gun but at major matches you could be faced with ~100 yard pistol targets and I didn't want to be sending rounds like a mortar it's not like you're going to gain much more by going as low as reliably possible. It's super flat shooting as you can see in the photo

Let me clarify this; I make a subjective observation that the M3k isn't the greatest based off my personal experiences and state an opinion that it's not the best choice. My opinion is wrong. You make a subjective observation about the 1301 based off of similar experiences, and assert as fact that I am wrong and imply you are right. That doesn't really make sense. I don't really think my experiences are biased. I have over 20k rounds through my 1301 (is that a short period of use?) and I had one single fail to feed that when i touched the charging handle it chambered. These rounds were mostly over a 2.5 year period where I only cleaned it about 10 times. I also have the gun you recommended, a roth custom benelli. Do you own both guns to practice with side by side? The Benelli sits in the safe because it sucks compared to my 1301. Maybe I'm just lucky (and every other 1301 around me is also lucky), maybe I just have strange preference but I shoot the 1301 way better and it never fails. You're gas gun experience was with the worst semi auto race shotgun in history, it's no wonder you have a bias against them. I will agree the Stoeger is a good value, but I still uphold you're rolling the dice on having one that runs like a top. There's also the Breda b12i option if you want to bridge the gap inbetween the M3K and the M2 and stay in the inertia gun family.

Don't forget to consider the Beretta 1301 comp. Price point is inbetween the benelli & the stoeger at a little over $1k and it's more ready out of the box than the benelli. The Stoeger isn't junk but it isn't exactly a like substitute for the benelli. You have a pretty good chance of needing to play with it to get it to work 100%. The Beretta, unlike both the Benelli & Stoeger, is gas operated. It cycles faster with a cleaner feeling recoil cycle which makes it run really well. Reliability is incredible and I shoot mine way better than my Dad's RCA custom Benelli also set up for 3-gun. Don't even consider the 930/940 if you actually want to shoot 3gun. Mossberg had the great idea of trying to fix the reputation by sending one to the blue line 3-gun match to be a stage gun and it jammed for every other competitor until Dillen Easely broke it in half. Whoops...

I don't agree, I've shot mine in matches out to 600 yards with great success. If you have bad eyes, sure, but I wouldn't say it won't cut it as a rule. It is more difficult, but certainly cuts it. Don't forget you're only competing against other red dots if you're in that division. Overall score isn't as telling, that's the whole point of different divisions. That said, I have competed in two point series that was exclusively zoom optics so I wasn't in a different division. I still wound up doing really well. Check this video out, these were targets at 200, 300, 460, and 600 yards. All these ranges are where you say it won't cut it, but only the 300 yard gave me issues which was probably because i was still catching my breath. Red dots are awesome with practice. @70gto it's an 18" with rifle length gas Note: big mags in video kept out of state

Sure, no worries! I put the build list at the bottom of this post. It came out to about 6 pounds with empty mag and no optic. I built it with such a light "foundation" I figured i could actually still shave another half pound or so if I opted for a lighter stock and bolt. I use a stainless and not titanium bolt because I wanted to maintain reliability although titanium bolts really do run just fine. @Tony13 About optic, it depends on division. Factory, limited, or "irons", allows a single zero magnification optic. If you have good eyes it's not an issue. If you have bad eyes and want to work up to large matches then you could have issues at 400+ yards I use the Vortex spitfire AR for two reasons. #1, etched reticle so if the battery craps it doesn't matter and you can turn it way down or even just run it off (black) for precision. Green is nice too sometimes. The other convenience is the two circles surrounding the center dot are a known size that you can do "poor mans BDC" math with and better judge holdover on further targets. "practical" or "tac-ops" allows a single optic with unlimited magnification but youll want a variable 1-6x or 1-8x to be competitive because you have to have 1x for close in work. Using that 1x floor as a requirement the furthest you'll go is a 1-10x (expensive) open allows whatever you want. That's when you see a red dot for close in work and usually still you'll see a low powered variable optic but the difference is those shooters don't waste motion turning the zoom up or down, they set it where they want it for the long range targets and then use a offset mounted red dot to shoot the close targets. Hope this sheds more clarity!

The AR is going to be the most friendly platform to "run what you brung". That being said, there are some commonly agreed upon concepts that are helpful for 3-gun. Things that help; 16" plus barrel with a mid to full length gas system. The longer the gas system, the flatter it is going to shoot. You can do a full rifle length gas system reliably as "short" as an 18". Rifle length buffer tube in lieu of carbine length, for the same reasons as above Lower mass reciprocating components (BCG, buffer) coupled with an adjustable gas key or gas block allow you to further flatten the recoil impulse by having less mass thrashing around. You need to turn the gas down to take advatage of this though, if you just slap light parts in they'll be lighter and simply fly around faster negating your gains. You need to slow them back down to "normal" speed and then you feel the gains. You can even lighten your buffer spring during your tuning to get the gas down even further. Light barrel. You're not shooting bench rest and if you have an 18" tube it's not going to be "too light", I promise. You can drive the gun notably faster for the close targets and it's not going to hurt you when you're shooting a big target out far. Aggressive muzzle brake A long hand guard so you can extend your support hand out. No reason not to go a full 15". You want one that's light, durable, and with a flat bottom. Flat bottom is helpful when you're shooting off a barricade like a VTAC Fancy cerakote. it takes at least 10 seconds off each stage time guaranteed. Optic, style depending on your division, will be necessary to be competitive. If you're doing to drop coin on a new gun though specific for 3-gun, if you already have a halfway decent AR, I'd get either a nice shotgun or handgun that's set up for the game. A halfway decent AR is going to be fine but shooting a shotgun or handgun that isn't ideal for the sport is going to hurt you a lot more than an AR that is not ideal for the sport. I hope that makes sense. Basically, focus on the handgun and shotgun first if you have an AR that you can make do with.

You may be able to donate them to a steam tourist railroad like the bel-del in phillipsburg for them to burn firing up the locomotive, and get a tax write off. They won't come pick them up, though. I haul mine to a railroad I'm affiliated with and they go up in smoke

You may want to consider doing a time study on doing it your way vs letting it rotate and doing one whole round at a time. The reason I say this is that you're handling the brass 4 times more. If each time you're handling it adds one second, that's 4 seconds your way vs 1 second the normal way. I don't see any time savings in disabling the auto rotate, so for every 100 rounds you're adding 300 seconds or 5 minutes which adds up because that's 50 minutes per 1k.

I started with the breech lock single stage, then I got the lee turret, and then "graduated" to a Dillon 650 with most of the bells & whistles. The single stage I still use, I use it for all my rifle reloading and also for depriming. I use it to deprime only because I'm OCD and wet tumble so it makes clean primer pockets and dries easier. You mention several pistol calibers, I would avoid doing these on a single stage. As a newcomer to reloading, I would also avoid doing these on a progressive (there's just too much going on). The turret is the "sweet spot" of speed and ease while maintaining cost effectiveness since it doesn't really cost much more than the single stage. With a turret I can do about 100 rounds an hour, I haven't timed the single stage with pistol rounds but it will be noticeably slower. You lose some of the speed advantage with rifle rounds on turrets and progressives because you have other case prep like trimming that interrupts the cycle. This is why I just take it a little slower and enjoy the benefits of the accuracy of the single stage although this is a preference thing, many people reload rifle rounds on turrets and progressives. I've dabbled with "blaster" 30-06 on my turret but I find it's barely any faster than doing batch work on the single stage. If you really want to reload all those calibers to start, I'd get both presses. Set the turret up for your pistol calibers and set the single stage up for the rifle calibers. You'll enjoy a little bit of the best of both worlds and the additional expense will be >$100. You'll also always have a use for both. I use all three presses (breech lock single, turret, and progressive) as they all have their own benefits and drawbacks. I do my high volume pistol on the 650, low volume pistol (.500 S&W, 8mm Nambu) on the turret, rifle on my single stage, and like i mentioned I do depriming on the single as well (and swaging if necessary).

Unless it's different than the comp, no, you don't need rod anymore. By the way, they recommend 12-16" out of an abundance of caution. If you find it loads too stiff or won't release a round when you hit the release button, then you can trim that spring waaaaaaay down. I bought a couple of springs to test one to failure, I didn't get a failure until the spring was about 0.75" protruding from the end of the tube. I settled on 1.25" protruding, a 50% cushion, and I saved the old one as a gauge.

I think the 3" defense is a pretty weak one, I'd set it up to hold 6+1 of 2-3/4" if it were mine, but I am not a lawyer and that's entirely up to you. If it makes you feel any better, I believe you can make a small cut on the bottom of the bolt to allow a ghost load. This means a 6+1 shotgun is really a 6+1+1 so you can have 8 in it fully stoked up, legally.

that's how I roll. It's actually my Hungarian M44 that was used during the Hungarian revolution, it has a few names carved into it and I couldn't help but post the one that matches.

Welcome!

Pistol grip doesn't matter, because it's classified as a "pistol gripped shotgun" like the mossberg cruiser, which has a pistol grip and 17" barrel, and is legal in NJ. It's still just a firearm, as it's still not designed to be fired from the shoulder, and the pistol grip doesn't matter because it's not a shotgun so "assault shotgun" rules don't apply.

I have a 1301 comp which mechanically speaking is the same shotgun. It'll eat the 2-3/4 dram (1-1/8oz @ 1145FPS) target loads all day long. When I get much lighter than that my gun doesn't like it, although some people don't have issues. The gun is awesome. It's fast, it handles great, it doesn't stop working. Replace your hammer struts every 10k rounds or so as they will break over time.

Hold the gun tighter. Try what feels to you like a "death grip" until you start shaking and then back off just until the point of the shakes going away. All of what raz-o said is also possible, but if you're new enough to call the extractor the retractor then you probably don't have a proper grip on the gun and that very often causes what you're describing. I doubt anything is wrong with the gun itself.

20ga 12ga .75 (muzzleloader) .50 (muzzleloader) .45 (muzzleloader) .22 short .22lr .32ACP .38 S&W .38 S&W Special 7.62x25 9x18 Mak 9x19 .45 ACP .500 S&W 5.56/223 7.62x39 5.45x39 7.62x54R .308 30-06 8mm Mauser 7.5x55 Swiss .303 Brit 7.7x58 Jap I use all of them, some more frequent than others You guys that consolidate calibers are no fun :P

go for it, i've reloaded tons of cases with similar nicks (and worse) with no ill effect.

Do they work fine? I don't think +.002" is going to slam fire but I'm not able to visualize this so I don't know. If it goes bang and not as a slamfire it's good enough. I say good enough because you indicate you're using mixed brass. So if you're trying for max accuracy you should look at the mixed brass situation first (but I'm sorry if I assumed wrong).

I'm shocked and appalled that this is happening. I have a friend who is a fellow WWII reenactor up in NH, and he posted this. He's involved with the museum in question and this is messed up. I'm copying & pasting his own words. Read on at your own peril... and then please share and write to them! "So it turns out the majority of the Board at the Wright Museum of World War II in Wolfeboro, NH have gone through with a gun ban on museum property. This prohibits members of the public, re-enactors, or museum volunteers from holding or possessing guns or edged weapons real or fake all due to a false claim for better image for the museum and "safety". The good members of the board fought hard but were highly outnumbered. I myself a volunteer and re-enactor am now prohibited from doing what everyones been doing for years there as a constitutional right and as part of living history displays. Also included in this gun ban is the deactivation of all firearms in the museum collection including some valuable weapons such as the German MG-34, American M1941 Johnson rifle, and many more are at risk of destruction by means of deactivation because of a half wit policy. Please show support by making your voice heard to the museum to tell them destruction of constitutional rights and WWII history is not permissible! It agonizes me because this museum has been a place of nostalgia and fun for years for myself and many others volunteers or not. We also are prohibited from using blanks in the main guns of our tanks for living history events from now on as part of this ban. The director claims he respects the memory of those who fought in the war, yet by destroying artifacts and ignoring freedoms we know this to not be true. Please help us out by sharing this message and contacting the museum to show the executive director and the board majority that there are many of us out there that actually care about protecting freedom and history!" Wright Museum of World War II contact info. Address: 77 Center St, Wolfeboro, NH 03894 Fb page: https://www.facebook.com/wrightmuseumofwwii/ Museum Phone number: 603-569-1212 Mike Culver, Executive Director contact info: Email: [email protected]

#1 I would replace the oprod spring with a known good spring. The symptoms of a weak spring are sometimes confused with being under-gassed, because you get such high bolt velocity that it skips the second round or will misfeed. You didn't quite fully explain the details of the malfunction so I don't know if this is more or less applicable. Is the bolt picking up the second round and failing to feed it because it doesn't have enough "oomph"? Or is the bolt picking up the second round and it's jamming? Or is the bolt skipping over the second round completely and returning to battery on an empty chamber? All 3 scenarios could be considered "the bolt not taking up the second round" http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-spring.html https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/recoil-parts/recoil-springs/m1-garand-operating-rod-spring-prod38877.aspx While you have it apart, clean the gas port out with a #47 drill bit. If the port is fouled, gently spin the bit with your fingers as you clean the port. DO NOT USE A POWER TOOL OR A BIT HOLDER. If you're malfunction is from being under-gassed, this is the easy and most likely culprit. Most military surplus .30-06, like the HXP greek, the PS/KA Korean, and the LC is as "garand friendly" as factory ammo gets, from a functioning standpoint. So, I'd rule ammo out of the equation unless you didn't have one of the above "flavors" of surplus. I would say with 90% certainty, if you did both these tweaks, your gun will run. The nice thing is, you should do those two things anyways, so it's a perfect starting point.

Full size, way more control. You want a heavy gun to control recoil. I compete with a bull shadow 2 which is a heavy barreled shadow 2 essentially, and being around 50oz means it has very little muzzle flip and recoils straight back. CZ is the bomb, you won't regret any of them. If you want to compete or just shoot for fun, the triggers with the better potential are the non-decockers of any sort. Only do a decocker if you want to use it for carry or something, otherwise you're losing feel in the trigger for a feature you don't really need.