chris327

Thank you again, pleasure doing business with you.

Im in the scrap industry, i have a yard in Byram and can pick up the car and still pay you for it. I will pm you. And for anyone else interested dont hesitate to ask.

Where are you located i might be able to help recommend someone if your in north Jersey. I work in the scrap metal industry and buy the steel tanks from people who remove them.

I don't really know anything about anything but curious as to if they could have just stopped the pipe 4 to 5' out. Knowing they are selling the house it is a temporary fix that looks good even though it does nothing. Or even the contractor could have doneasily it. Stopped the pipe put a cap put wholes in the pipe and surround by stone. Almost like a mini leach field. As I said I don't know much about this stuff but wouldn't this be possible?

Griz bottom right corner says limit 6.

Ok was curious and rain tomorrow so went out and soaked wd40 on the shock bushings, sway bar mounts and every other bushing I can find. Drove it about a mile hoping it would go away as it works is way through the bushings. But nothing still the same sound. Thanks for helping though.

Thanks malsua will do tomorrow. You think that makes sense only when braking too?

same. thanks though. im normally pretty good with shit but this one above my pay grade.

yea nah def not seat. friend was thinking maybe the mechanism inside for the brke pedal. but we would prob hear it at higher speeds then i think.

seat?

yea i guess its just narrowing it down then.

slow speed 30 35 and under when braking only. take your foot off it stops. and right from when u put in gear and take your foot off the brake you will hear it. i thought suspension related at first but only when braking made me thing its not suspension and more brake issue. also a buddy stood outside today and cannot hear with the door closed from outside but i could hear it inside and vice versa.

yea truck but no offroading. can try the brake cleaner test also to see.

yes mechanically inclined but just dont have the time between work and family to do it. i dont think its a bearing as if it was the bearing wouldnt it be all the time not only when braking. also i noticed you cannot hear the noise from outside but very audible inside. at lunch had a buddy look at it with me quick him moving me outside and vice versa. he thinks it might be the mechanism inside the truck but you cannot hear it at high speed. 30 ish mph and under only just pulling out of park u can hear it inside the car. i took a video but it seems my video size is too large to upload any easier way to upload the video? or should i just try to record an audio clip of it without video?

Yes all 4 were changed. I don't think it's the wear indicators different sound than I've experienced with wear indicators. Same mechanic screwed a friend a few months after he did my breaks. So don't wanna go back to him and don't have the time to change them myself. Any recommendations in the wayne clifton area?

Just curious I'm having a similar issue, but brake job is about a year old 10k miles. Slow speed braking only and like a creak sound. Turning makes no difference. Could this be the same kind of issue? Also any mechanics you guys know or trust in the wayne clifton area for an alignment and to look at the brake issue?

Passaic county tech I believe has classes at night. A few years back I know someone who did a few classs. Was like 4 months 2 nights a week. And wasn't crazy money I think a few hundred each "semester".

lol, not sure as this is only what ive read somewhere, but basically its a marketing ploy of if TDP says x& y dimension must be checked. and you check X&Y&Z then you can claim you exceed. even though Z might be a nothing necessary dimension. so it is basically the same as the TDP. again Im not positive on it but that was my understanding after some reading on it.

thanks. and yea i agree the colt is the way to go then. i know there was alot of talk about it not being able to follow the TDP when they first introduced the fn15. but then there was talk of them being able to exceed the TDP. This was all about 2 years ago when they first introduced it. I havent heard or seen any further testing so was just curious.

I agree with the 6920 best out of the box under 1k. The other one I would like to see more specs on is the fn15. I'm a fn fan and would like to see how it compares to the 6920. If anyone has these specs I'd appreciate it.

Pm sent

I dont have septic but my parents do and did when i was growing up. The lid is about 2 feet down with no riser. When the house was full growing up they used to have it pumped every year. Until the leach field collapsed. Was old clay pipes and they collapsed little by little we found out. He then had to redo part of the system and a new leach field. There was also a holding tank that piping collapsed going to. Dont remember what its called but basically a tank with holes so the water can go back into the soil. After redoing it hes had no problems and now has it pumped every 2 years just because. Also i agree with adding ridex every 6 months or so. Not sure if it does anything but its worth it in the long run to add that and get it pumped every 2 years or so.

can you expand on why? i have them and if you have a good reason ill switch. i just have not had any problem with them since i switched to the about a year ago.

did what you wanted till you heard on the speaker no rapid fire.

I'm kinda paranoid about humidity I have this and like it.its easy to plug in for a day and put back the next day. I have one or 2 that go in the oven and I never end up recharging them. These plug ins I recharge every time I need to. I also have a golden rod i the safe. And a few of the large desiccant packs in there. But these plug in one's are nice and easy. The oven ones you won't recharge when it's needed as it takes more effort.