Dan

I just received and used a Worksharp Ken Onion edition belt sharpener. http://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WSKTS-KO-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B00EJ9CQKA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422892479&sr=8-1&keywords=worksharp+ken+onion I have to say I've finally found something that is quick, easy, and produces excellent results. This is coming from someone who dislikes sharpening knives and has tried at least 3 other "systems" and either sucked at using them, took too much effort, or didn't perform. My advice in using this is to go slowly and follow all the instructions. Its not something you want to jump into without RTFM'ing as you could ruin a knife easily if you go mach 10 with the coarse grit.

Thank you! It was nice meeting you as well

I follow the "buy once, cry once" frame of mind. Whatever that you decide on, make sure it is what you want out of a rifle over getting the cheapest or best deal. Otherwise, you'll be unhappy down the road and will either look to upgrade or sell it to get what you really want. This doesn't mean you have to spend $2K for the most tacticool operator grade equipment, but it may mean that a few extra $100's spent now will save you more later on.

I just finished a build using a keymod midwest industries top rail setup. I much prefer the smaller diameter/smooth sides and bottom over my DD LITE quad setup when it comes to feel. I'm completely sold on the top rail only style, and using the adapters whether it be keymod, mlok, or others to place individual rail sections where/if you need them.

Some suggestions... If you are into precision/target type work, take a look at the Geissele SSA-E. More on budget or looking for stock trigger pull weight but a greatly enhanced feel, look at the ALG ACT. There are many other options out there in the marketplace, but cannot comment as I haven't tried them. I own the two mentioned here and am extremely happy with their performance.

We have a Lennox bypass panel central humidifier. Its been running great for 3 years now and really made the whole home very comfortable. I change the panel once a year along with generally cleaning out the tray and area where it interfaces with the duct work. As ted527 above says, as long as you maintain it , these types of humidifiers work well.

The only 100% NJ legal way is no way. Basically don't own any magazine.... Otherwise, folks seem to be comfortable with any way that they feel confident in defending if they had to have a day in court with an anti-gun rights judge, prosecutor, and jury presiding over their case. Rivets, bent tabs, and fastened restriction devices attached to the base-plate have all been used both custom and commercially produced. It is universally accepted that anything that can be removed by hand without tools is a no-go.

Its comforting to know that NJ is keeping true to its colors in trying to screw over NJ gun owners over victimless "crimes" based off of unconstitutional laws. At least our State's esteemed govt and justice system is consistent. I'm assuming the State will be setting up some kind of sting operation in trying to rid our streets of NJ gun owners who didn't have their muzzle brakes attached permanently enough, or their mags not altered permanently enough at 15 rounds. These people are truly the scourge and propagators of violence on our streets. Talk about a government at war with its people. If this comment is true, this is one example that it really is happening.

GSV is excellent. Our GSD needed arthroscopic elbow surgery when she was 6 mos old to correct a UAP. She's going on 7 now and that elbow has been rock solid perfect. <knock on wood>

Obviously you aren't milspec enough to dive in....

Just to be clear, I was by no means advocating that you have to buy from a TDP possessing company in order to get the best parts. I even went on to say that parts from reputable and respectable companies are all you have to worry about, and may even be better then whatever this unknown TDP stuff is. Didn't mean to open a can of worms. It was just a rationalization of what it could mean when someone says they want "milspec". The bottom line, unless you are a govt buyer... you will never know.

Congrats on the press. I'm a happy owner of a Co-ax as well. PizzaBob here on the forums recommended and showed me the ropes with it some years ago. Keep in mind, being a single stage press, its not the type of setup that will have you pumping out round after round in volume like a progressive press. For instance, I have a Lock n load progressive for handgun ammo, while I use the Co-ax for rifle , both precision and low-volume stuff. It really comes down to how much time you have on your hands.... For .223 plinking... I get lazy and grab up deals on for quality brass plinking ammo like Wolf Gold, Privi, and Aguilla. I save the brass for some day i just MAY want to reload it. Other equipment that i use includes: Forester case trimmer Lyman digital scale Lyman 55 adjustable powder measure Lee powder measure Lee primer tool Lee powder measure cups Cabelas vibratory case cleaner/polisher Lyman deburring tool Primer pocket cleaner tool Bullet puller Multi caliber case holding trays Hornady One Shot case lube (stuff is great, you can just wipe them down and load, no need to clean as it won't attack powder) Digital caliper tool Have fun!

I have a solid wood exterior front door with only a window at the very top. I also installed a door devil anti-kick kit. http://doordevil.com/. The screws go past the door frame and into the frame of the house. The plate distributes force from the deadbolt latch over a large area and many screws. With that I use a Mul-t-lock Interactive high security deadbolt and a reinforcement plate that wraps around both sides of the deadbolt like this : http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-9589-Non-Recessed-Stainless/dp/B005H371PM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1422391813&sr=8-8&keywords=door+reinforcement+plate . To get through would mean smashing/cutting through the door... basically much more then a few kicks or hits with a ram. To get better then this would mean moving up to perhaps a steel covered/wood door, or start getting into the high security vault-like doors mentioned above (which are super cool btw).

I've used birchwood casey's super blue liquid. There are many other product out there including those in cream form that may be better. Brownells has a big selection of products.The same thing would be good to touch up a scratch in steel parts. For aluminum, you would have to get a product designed for it, most likely it will be a type of paint then anything that would chemically bind to the metal as in blueing chemicals do with steel.

Good point, looks like FN produces M4/M16 govt parts using Colt's TDP, so there are licensing rules involved there. I'll still take FN's parts to be as good or better then Colt's TDP'd parts. Like their CHF barrels made with metallurgy and processes similar to the M249 barrels that they produce (and of which they own the secrets to). Probably better then the M16/M4 TDP stuff!

KG-12 works best for me. Non-ammonia formula and works fast and amazingly well.

Cool. Yea, besides that, the term "milspec" is unfortunately loosely thrown around as a marketing term. Some people want what the military gets, so the best chances are to buy parts from companies that currently are contracted to produce M4 rifles for the govt. They possess the government TDP (technical data package) explaining the specifics and requirements on how the parts are made for them to take delivery. Everything from the dimensions to the heat treating process of the different parts. FN and Colt are two examples. Civilian companies not affiliated with making M4/M16 platform parts for the govt either get the TDP by covert means and incorporate those specs into their products (yet they can't prove it), take a good guess at it, or feel they created something superior to what is in the TDP and market it as such. The bottom line is if you go with top tier well respected manufacturers with good reputations, you'll be fine with any parts that you choose regardless if they say milspec or not.

The only thing that would make sense is the buffer tube. There are two types that have different dimensions, milspec and commercial. You want to match the stock version to the tube type you have.

Every NJ gun owner lives in schrodinger's box. They are both lawful and unlawful at the same time until observed. My point is, to be a NJ gun owner, is to be someone who most likely has committed at one time or another a victimless felonious gun related crime. The laws are set up this way so that the state can make a case against nearly anyone who is in possession of a gun if they really really wanted to, and tried hard enough. I'm not going to list out examples here, but its not difficult to think of many. Our best defense is to fly low and slow. Follow the laws. If a court case comes up with some new interpretation, we all follow that. Otherwise, most importantly not fire off new examples where poorly crafted NJ gun laws can further snag existing lawful gun owners who do their best to follow our cryptic, unconstitutional, and confusing laws. This especially if it has never been prosecuted in such a way before. The state doesn't need any more ideas or excuses to use our crappy laws against us. Next up are calls to the State Police with "mother may I" questions on owning these mags. We all know how that works out...

- Check all outlets with an outlet tester for proper wiring. I go the extra step and use a multimeter, check across both hot/neutral/ground and make sure they behave properly. I've seen some weird dangerous crap wiring or faults that will still have the outlet in functional order , yet be a fire waiting to happen. - Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure... Perform maintenance on everything that needs it. for instance with HVAC (filters, condensate pump, yearly check up). Have any driveway cracks repaired, and have it sealed every few years. Prep and paint any exterior wood trim if you have any, especially around doors. I find a high quality oil based high gloss works best for looks and longevity. - Have the roof checked for any issues, especially around chimney's and other I/O areas. Easy to do yourself if you can get up there. Seal any cracked areas even if there aren't any apparent leaks (yet) with proper roof sealant. Check flashing for any damage and repair if needed. - Security : DIY wireless alarm system with monitoring, I use nextalarm.com. Look into anti-kick plates for your entry doors. You can have the best deadbolt in the world, but it is only as good as the strength of the door and the frame that the bolt locks into. No need to pick or drill a lock if you can kick the door in, which is also 99% faster. Kick-in's and rear slider door smash-through's are the two most common forms of forced entry. Install motion flood lights around the perimeter of the house. A camera system would be icing on the cake. -Nice to do : Keep up with the landscaping and general exterior cosmetics. Your neighbors will respect and like you for taking interest in keeping up the appearance of the neighborhood. You would rather be "that guy who moved in and really did a nice job on that house", over the alternative options if your front looks like a haunted weed farm. Congrats and good luck!

I would add that it is important to get good quality low loss coax for both HF and especially 2m/70cm. RG213 is a start. I would look at LMR400 spec cable. Each cable type has a particular power rating and loss associated with it typically measured for every 100ft. For instance, lower frequencies over shorter distances.... doesn't need as fancy of a cable and you can save some $$. When you go higher frequencies like 400mhz, any distance over a 10-20ft feet or whatnot could start to matter when it comes to loss. All cable has loss, its just a matter of mitigating that loss under your circumstances so that you get the most out of your transceiver's power. Also pay attention if you need something flexible or not, as LMR400 comes in solid and stranded types, with the stranded costing 50% more , but is nice and flexible. A waste if you don't need that property. I'm not a pro by any means, and I don't want to needlessly spend your money for you, but it is something to consider and will depend on your use and distance from your transceiver to the antenna. Here's a good site for quality ham equipment that I sometimes use. This page has many types of coax to take a look at http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/cable/coax.html . Here is a handy chart that lets you compare the attenuation between them.

Update : I'm going to go with backwoodscoatings.com, a supporting NJGF vendor. Price is right, and Chris stocks the color. We're going to set it up so that I can drop ship the upper from the vendor and he'll mail it to me when its completed. Doesn't get any easier.

Yea I did try that, apparently Aero's "desert" FDE is not the same hue as Magpul FDE. I saw rifles with the combo and it isn't too flattering IMO. I may have to just suck it up and buy a black upper and either rattle can it or send it out to be coated. I think I remember seeing a marketplace vendor here that offers cerakoting, I will try them to see what it would take.

I'm looking for a stripped upper done in mapgul FDE cerakote. I've found some "desert" FDE ones out there, but so far have been unable to find any for sale in Magpul FDE. Does anyone know of a source out there? I figure buying it pre-made would be less expensive and less hassle then buying a black one and sending it out to get coated. I could be wrong, I'm open to suggestions either way.

This re-fingerprinting business is nothing short of a scam and abuse of authority. It is another way PD's use guise of law in order to discourage NJ citizens from exercising their 2A rights. Imagine if you had go through hoops like this in order to exercise your right to vote every year. Civil rights suits would be abound with the courts blowing the scheme out of the water. Alas, when it comes to guns in this part of the country... rights take second seat to the political aspirations of the courts that subside over us.