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      NJGF's Gun Range & Store Database   05/23/2017

      Excited about launching a new feature, our very own member- driven range and store database.  Read the announcement and watch the video here... www.njgunforums.com/forum/index.php?/topic/86658-njgfs-gun-store-range-database/


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About alec.mc

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    madman across the water
  • Birthday 12/04/1985

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    Woodbridge NJ
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  1. I mean... He's O-K.
  2. Good call keeping them wheel gun people separate from ' good folks ' nice meeting you see you on the next one. -a
  3. For what ? Leaving my house with a concealed weapon and committing a felony and going to prison? No, I dont.
  4. I can help, 8 inch powermatic jointer, 13 inch planer, table saw, etc etc Woodbridge nj PM me
  5. they work.... though a "blow out " patch is pretty easy and has great strong results. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=drywall+blowout+patch
  6. The 617 uses a standard round nose firing pin,and most semi 22s will use a square nose, so that's why they look different. First thing first, take the grips off and make sure that the strain screw hasn't loosened up, it's very common that they do. You should blue lock Tite it. ( Screw controls main spring pressure ) 2nd, if tightening the main spring screw doesn't work, you'll need to check your end shake. This can be done with a simple pair of feeler gauges you can get at any automotive store, or Amazon. Ideally, the less end skake the better - but up to about .002 end shake is fine in these guns. A quick Google search will explain how to do it- but in a nut shell - gap between face of cylinder and forcing cone with cylinder pulled back toward rear minus the gap between forcing cone and face of cylinder with cylinder pushing forward equals end shake. You are essentially measuring the slop in the cylinder movement forward and back. If so much slop you'll be robbing energy from the force of the main spring that would otherwise be used to ignite primers by having to move the cylinder forward a hair first Good luck. Alec
  7. Should of shot a revolver.
  8. Yup, griz is correct. If this were a duty / carry / defense gun you'd absolutely want to keep the ejector rod in it's shroud. Most factory revolvers lock up the cylinder / yoke at the end of the ejector rod. So, I'lf you do bend it the trigger will bind up really bad while your trying to rotate a bent rod on a fixed pin. With my competition setups I eliminate the lockup at the ejector rod and solely rely on ball detents that are engaged on the yoke face and frame. So If I do happen to bend a rod during a reload or heavy use, it really doesn't effect to much.
  9. In their current form with the way I have the springs setup, yes - they will only fire federal branded ammo / primers. Can always increase the spring weight If I ever had the need to fire other factory ammo. and I havent had a dillon boom boom in a few years. Dillon 1050 way gooder in that department
  10. some of my 627s! Best revolver on the market!
  11. Pro tip, when comparing gun to gun - I wouldn't nessasary base your determination on which trigger is better over one another, or which grip is nicer, or sights, etc. These are all things that can vary from same model gun to gun. And all of these things can be upgraded. Concentrate on feel, caliber, weight, etc. I have a ton of revolvers, but they are all competition tuned, so it would be an unfair comparison over a new factory gun. Even a 686 that is 20-30 years old with likely feel tons better in the trigger over a new model. Just food for thought.
  12. Jesus, what is that picture like 8 years old ? Where did it even come from. If your gonna do that, at least use a cool picture of me. Edit: that grip technique is horrendous