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    Cherry Ridge

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  1. The years of political harassment were depressing. I had to step away from the conversation. Now I am stepping away from New Jersey, to a state that doesn't attack and harass its legal gun owners. Sorry.
  2. Looking to lighten my inventory in anticipation of a move: CCI Standard Velocity 22lr- 4 2 bricks of 500, $125 each brick CCI Standard Velocity 22lr - 4 boxes of 100, $25 each box CCI Mini Mag 22lr - 1 box of 100, $25 for box AE223BK .223 Remington, loose. 55gr 718 cartridges. $660. $600 $100 minimum purchase. Face to face only. I am in Hudson County, and I can drive an hour to meet you in northern NJ. Or I can ship it to you for $30 S&H Buyer will need FID and matching DL. Please post "I'll take it" and item, then PM me to arrange details. I'll update list with pending and sold.
  3. Congratulations! I'll bet dollars to donuts you are going to love it. Brick & mortals carry a high cost for shelf space: they wouldn't stock it if they couldn't move it. You may want to check your township's bow discharge ordinance. Most townships have no discharge ordinances, with exceptions only for hunting. Sucks, I know...
  4. You will probably end up collecting a few releases. As DeerSlayer mentioned, wrist release can be very handy. Once you strap it on, you don't really worry about misplacing it. You can draw and hold with much of the weight supported by the wrist. I started with wrist release then got thumb release. - The length of wrist release seemed long, effectively shortening my draw length. The thumb release pulled the D-loop back farther because the distance from center of palm to clamp (and D-loop) was shorter. It gave me a more consistent anchor. - I tried shortening the wrist release, but then then I had difficulty with the index finger tension to hold the trigger while I release with back tension. - With wrist release the anchor is thumb under jaw. With thumb release the anchor is flat back of hand against jaw. I found easier anchor consistency with black back of hand. I found the thumb release is more for target shooting, for that last little bit of accuracy. When you've got 10 other things to worry about, the hassle-free nature of a wrist release is hard to beat. Brick & mortar will have some wrist releases. They have fewer thumb releases, because releases are expensive, difficult to stock and constantly being replaced with newer models. The best way to try thumb releases is to find someone who has one. My first time trying was borrowing one at an archery club. Archery forum classifieds often sell brand new releases at small discounts, and used at large discounts.
  5. Not really surprised. You aren't the first archer from whom I've heard Targeteers CS complaints, and my first few visits wasn't great either. But I've been there a few times to use the range and whatnot. They get friendlier after a few visits. The lady that set up my bow manages the store for Rob, who is usually busy with something else. When I accidentally dry fired my compound, she looked it over for me, confirmed it looked okay, and charged me a nominal fee for replacing the peep sight. Very nice person, knowledgeable and helpful. When you start shooting, you'll run into situations where a brick&mortar archery shop will be very convenient, whether Targeteers or Simon Peter or Heritage. Some extra field points or inserts because you hit a tree and you could only recover the shaft. Some extra arrows because a Robin Hood ruined 2 arrows and you only have 3 left. Lancasterarchery.com often ships to NJ in about 2 days, but sometimes you don't want to wait that 2 days. :-) When I was looking I narrowed it down to the Mission Riot and the Hoyt Charger. I think the Quest Forge is new for 2015? That could explain the dearth of reviews. If it feels good to you, it seems like a good choice. DTH Package - Sight - "Tool-less fiber optic sight w/ light". I have no idea which sight they are packaging, but once you start shooting 10, 20, 40 and 50 yards or more, don't be surprised if you outgrow it. - Rest - Some people prefer the full containment rest. Others like fall away rests. It's a personal preference you'll figure out after you shoot a while.
  6. I would recommend buying the first compound bow from Targeteers. Mine was a Hoyt Charger package. Setting up a compound bow involves measuring the draw length, setting a draw weight, nocking point, d-loop, peep-sights, timing of the cams, alignment of the rest, sights, etc... It may not be the least expensive option, but it gets you up-and-running quickly so you can focus on what's important: practice. After practicing and learning about your equipment, you will be better experienced to make adjustments independently. I would recommend checking out some archery forums. I use archerytalk.com. I would recommend joining an archery club. I shot at Cherry Ridge, which is fine. But then I also I joined Waxobe for access to their range, equipment and members' expertise. At Waxobe I can work on my equipment then use the range to get immediate feedback on the adjustments. Most of your practice may be standing at targets at same elevation. If you plan to hunt from an elevated position you may wish to practice that too. Anchor point may feel different. Draw weight may feel heavier if your position isn't convenient to engage the same back muscles on the draw. Your initial setup may not be what you end up hunting with.
  7. I see your RimfireCentral thread. The information is scattered, but those manufacturer-specific sub-forums are better than any guide. But you are right: researching and picking the rifle is the fun part. Finding the ammo to feed it, later, not so much.
  8. You needn't be anxious about picking the perfect choice: it is your first rifle, not your last. First purchase is a down payment for lessons to inform future purchases. I have a 10/22, a few CZs, and a Savage. They are all great: I think you'll be happy whatever you pick. My default "first-rifle" recommendation is the Appleseed Liberty Training Rifle, which is a cheap 10/22 with Tech Sights (10/22's factory sights are rubbish) and GI sling. Inexpensive, accurate. A great learning platform, and a fun rifle you'll return to again and again in years to come. But not appropriate if your end goal is the 220. > So rookie question but why the heavy barrel? This is a departure from your stated goal of hunting. It is reflects the Townsend Whelen quote, "Only accurate rifles are interesting." 22lr's recoil doesn't necessarily need a heavy barrel. The same combustion that shoots the projectile also recoils the rifle. A heavy barrel keeps the rifle more steady for the few milliseconds while the 40g lead travels down the barrel. As a basis of comparison, the 22lrs I use at 100 yards are 25" barrels and a little under 11lbs. I shoot them bench and prone: they are really heavy for standing. So if your goal is trekking a few miles in the woods, 7 pounds is better than 11. > Also does the .5 lb between the F and FV make a significant difference? The Mark II F 22lr is 5 pounds, 17HM2 is 5.5 pounds, and FV is 6pounds. The F and FV stock roughly matches the 220. > They have a TR at 7.5lb and 40". One way to distinguish rifles is by their stock. You see it fairly dramatically with the Ruger 10/22: the comb is angled severely, and ends at a butt that is far below the barrel. An angled stock generally indicates a rifle intended in for an upright position, such as standing or kneeling, because laying in prone the shoulder is closer to the head. A severely angled stock, like the 10/22, is intended for open sights, because at proper cheek weld the lower comb puts your eyes along the barrel, and open sights sit lower along the barrel than scopes in rings. The TR and FCP all share similar stocks features. Recessed thumb rest, straight comb leading to a higher butt. These are more for prone or target shooting, and can feel heavy and slow shooting in standing and kneeling. If your end-goal is the 10FCP-K or 93R17TR, then Mark II TR would be a great training platform. A notable not-yet-mentioned in the 22lrs is the Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22. Great out-of-the-box. I can't think of a semi-auto rifle easier to clean. Even if you never get an AR-15, still a great rifle to feel the difference between an AR other semi-auto platforms. In the end, it is a lot of personal preference.
  9. Whatever you decide, congratulations on you first rifle and gun! Getting a 22lr for practice is a great idea. For Savage, the Mark II will help you decide if you like the AccuTrigger. Not everyone who tried it was sold. Have you considered the Savage Mark II FV? The bull barrel bumps the weight to 6lbs. It won't match the 7.5lbs and 45" of the 220, but gets a bit closer. Rifles get real heavy in the standing position.
  10. Many folks use 22lr bolts as a practice platform for their higher caliber rifles. If so, purchase decision will depend on the rifle you want to match. If you want a rifle that you can just pick up and shoot, I think the CZ is a great option: I have a couple just for that. There are also some specialized options. For example a CMP Kimber 82g is a fairly hefty choice.
  11. S2723 conditionally vetoed. Below link has thread containing the conditions of whereby veto may be reconsidered. Foremost is stripping FID from the bill. http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/59928-christie-vetos/#entry766890
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