Worn_Holster

He is North of Philly willing to drive up here, I am in Denville

Just pack it up an take to post office with copy of PA FFL's licence?

pay a PA FFL transfer fee?

is there a way to avoid shipping fees selling a long rifle to a PA resident?( NJ FFL to PA FFL) shipping fee

Why waste the effort on such a low performance cartridge? I have a Chilean Mauser that was arsenal converted to 7.63x51which is a great shooter, with a Mojo peep sight

this would not open for me:The links in the email titled Stand up and vote from ANJRPC regarding NRA PVF candidate ratings and endorsements would not open

With all of the emails that I received I would think that finding a list that could give me guidance on who I should vote for should not have been so difficult,I tried to click on links in the emails that would not open, WTF I wanted to make a difference but could not find help in selecting who I should support

I am still trying to find a home for my NJ legal National Match AR,

I am in the same boat, I am surviving a brain tumor and I don't know how much time that I have left, my wife has no desire to deal with my firearms, although I wish that she would keep one just to have around the house just in case. I have simplified matters by taking most of them to my bro's house in Virginia an I have left them to thim all in my will.I trust my bro will pass some on to my son when he is old and responsible enough.

If by some twist of fate a NJ LE officer that doesn't understand the complicated NJ firearm regulations pulls her over and finds a pistol in her possession, she would likely be arrested and left with an expensive lawyer and the NJ court system to figure out if she was violating the law or not.

You'll need to contact the FFL to see if he will accept firearms from a non-FFL, and you may need to show the shipper a copy of his FFL

I have a Stihl 066 with a 36" bar, and a Stihl MS260 Pro with an 18" bar. Both have ported mufflers which allows me to run at higher rpm's with a 40:1 mix. I use a rat tail file to put a few licks on each chain link daily when I am done or if they start to dull. Always use gloves when sharpening. I also always use chaps and a Stihl combo hard hat/face shield/ear muffs. A chain saw will rip through soft tissue faster than you can possibly imagine, and is likely the most dangerous power tool that you can use. Always keep yourself out of line with the spinning chain! Always 2 hands on the saw and never hold the saw over your head. I bought both of my saws used and they will last me a lifetime.

I agree with the smell test, but spoiled dairy products are more likely to produce pathogens that could lead you to sickness. Can't you just go buy some more milk? BTW, if you are making a Béchamel, you will be bringing it to a boil, but it is more than a month expired, WTF are you thinking about? I hope you're not planning on feeding it to your kids...

I 2nd the vote for a nice Rem 700 My Remington 700 5R in .308 with a SWFA 10x42HD scope, CDi bottom metal, cerakote by GdsCoatings, Badger rings and rail, bolt knob by me, and a Harris bipod. Cost a little over $2000, shoots .350" groups with handloads...

My first year SP101 in .38spc is sufficient for me in close quarters. I would chose my H&KP7 PSPif I anticipated the need to shoot accurately at a greater distance.

No, I would leave it alone and move to a free state.

Milt Sparks holsters are the way to go.

Interested in night sights for your P7? Read my posting on HKPro... http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-handgun-talk/132913-trijicon-inserts-p7-part-2-a.html

As far as accuracy, reliability, durability, and safety goes, the P7 is one awesome handgun design. Sure, the German's design is somewhat heavy and was expensive to produce, but look at the condition of most of theses 25+ year old pistols and it is really evident just how good he P7 platform is. Some just can't get used to the squeeze cocker design, but I am sold on them and using them is 2nd nature to me.

I bought a Pioneer brand safe on eBay, the seller was marc17522, and the eBay store was PIoneer Safes. I have been pleased with the quality and price, the door is 1/8" plate steel, and it has bolts on three sides of the door. These types of safes only buy you a little bit of time. Really secure professional safes cost into the thousands of dollars and weigh a whole lot. I saw a video of two guys working a door on a gun safe simultaneously with 2 crowbars, and opened it in less than 2 minutes. Bolting into concrete surely buys you some more protection time. The locking mechanisms on these gun safes is no where near the quality of those found on professional safes, and a pro can waltz their way in in very little time. You get what you pay for.

I have a great groundhog recipe that involves a pot of water and a rock...when the rock is tender the groundhog is done. Bon Appetit!

Parmigiano-Reggiano @ $12.99 IS on sale... or you can buy real sawdust for less!!

It is definitely back-door gun control. I got my Saiga in 2000 for $175 as a non regulated firearm as Maryland resident in the original Clinton AWB configuration. It is unfortunate that those types of restrictions dont seem to get reversed, and that ammunition restriction of that type are likely to follow.

It looked to me that Tier 1 Defense isn't exactly south Jersey either, but closer than Bob. Bob is $25 cheaper, but I don't know whose lead time is greater. I recall only waiting 3 weeks for mine, but Bob indicated that his backlog of work shrinks and grows all of the time, and it is getting past winter and shooting season is fast approaching. I imagine that any shop that does good work has the same issue also. I have a real fear of shipping my fine firearms out for service, and personal delivery to a good local craftsman is definitely the way I prefer to get things done.

I used Bob White of the Shooter's Corner in Lake Hopatcong, and he did an outstanding job, but he is in North Jersey.