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vmastro87

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Posts posted by vmastro87

  1. Posted

    Wow....actual electrical engineering breaking out in the NJ Gun Forum...

    i know im very impressed lol!!! I have been talking to displaced texan and it looks like im going to borrow his scope to give this a shot. Between his knowledge and everyone else on here im pretty confident i can do it. If not we will definitely be paying someone to do it. The company is located in bayville.

     

    LOL! She called me way back when to have me turn in the KV2M plates on my truck, which I never turned in after I realized my license had expired. Give her my regards.

     

    My Amateur Extra Class certificate is hanging on my office wall right next to my commercial First Class Radio Telephone Operator license (now defunct and meaningless with today's broadcast equipment). You mean if I take element 2 and pass they'll reinstate my Extra license with a different call sign?

     

    Sorry to the OP for this deviation, but this could be important! I'll pick it up in a PM if necessary.

    all good i dont mind at all with all the help you guys are giving

     

     

    http://olympic-tool.com/

  2. Posted

    I'm not going to pretend to understand the calibration process for this machine from the above. but in general terms it appears you're adjusting the waveform to some specific levels. I'd want to know if the scope probe should be AC or DC coupled to the test points. (In other words are we measuring and adjusting absolute DC voltages, or an AC waveform?) With respect to the waveform, we can measure and adjust:

     

    - The peak-to-peak sine wave amplitude

    - The DC offset from zero (if any)

    - The frequency (I don't see any evidence of that in the text)

    - The phase difference between two wave forms (from the text it seems that will be fixed)

     

    That's not a 'how to do it', but those are the typically available options.

    ok gothca, id imagine it is DC because the trim devices plug directly into a PCi card in a computer

  3. Posted

    while looking for the pictures i just found this literature from someone who has done the process, the blue text below outlines it. this was the process for our older machine but i would imagine it is very similar to this. 

     

     

     

    Adjusting Brown & Sharpe MicroVal CMM Axis Quadrature Signal

    11/25/09 - m. mcdade

    Each 9-pin axis plug contains a small circuit board with
    four pots for adjusting the quadrature signal waveforms.
    I did not trace out and understand the exact function of
    the circuitry supporting the sensors but at the time of
    this work, both the x and y     axes functioned well while
    the z axis produced a 'axis error' message. Cleaning and
    resetting the sensors on the     scales helped (several years
    ago, cleaning completely eliminated an error on the y axis)
    but, eventually, the z axis could not be used any more and
    required adjustment.

    What I found was that the 4 pots on each little board in an
    axis plug are associated with two test points on the counter
    board in the cmm control (into which the plugs are inserted).
    There are two test points for each axis. To adjust a given
    axis, connect a scope probe for the 'upper' waveform (i.e.,
    the one associated with the upper two pots when looking at
    the plug board) to the upper test point and a scope probe
    for the 'lower' waveform to the lower test point for the
    axis. Set both channels to 2v/division on the scope and,
    in auto mode, set the upper trace to the middle line of the
    screen and the lower trace to the bottom line of the screen.
    With power on and while moving the axis in question, you
    should see     sine waves from each channel. The top two pots
    are used to adjust the upper signal (on the upper test pin
    for the axis of interest). The upper pot of each pair sets
    the offset of the waveform and the lower pot of each pair
    sets the amplitude of the waveform. The following numbers
    were derived by looking at the two good     axes and served to
    set the third so it now works perfectly. My z-axis voltages
    were way off before my resetting and the fact that it
    (mostly) worked for a long time indicates to me that these
    are not terribly tight tolerance numbers.

    top of upper waveform - 7.1 volts
    bot of upper waveform - 2.7 volts
    top of lower waveform - 3.5 volts
    bot of lower waveform - 1.0 volt

    ---

    Each scale unit has four pairs of emitters and sensors that
    see out through a pattern of bars which one of the older
    user manuals indicates are spaced a quarter space smaller than
    the bars on the scale. It is easy to trace the wiring back to
    the plugs and see that the pots on the plug are used to adjust
    the voltage level to the emitters, apparently one per pot.
    What isn't clear is how that translates to the two (unequal)
    sine waves at the test points. These seem to form a
    quadrature pair (the phase difference is clearly visible on
    the scope) but how the circuitry gets from the four physical
    signals to two logical ones is not clear to me.

  4. Posted

    How high of freq do you need it for. I could help as well.

    honestly this is a bit out of my feild. Though i have a good grasp of electronics and i have used a scope before ( a long time ago) im not quite sure exactly what im looking for. http://www.deva.co.uk/product/deva023.shtml that is the device im trying to adjust and it goes on whats called a CMM that uses linear scales and reader heads to interpret a position to check to high accuracy machined parts. 

     

    this is the machine

    http://www.publicsurplus.com/sms/docviewer/aucdoc/Brown%20Sharp%20Microval%20CMM%204.jpg?auc=496321&docid=2766514

  8. Posted

    Hey guys this might be a stretch but i have to adjust some equipment at work that has trim pots on it. Im not very familiar with adjusting them but I was told by the company they will work me through it if i can get my hands on one. Just cant seem to find anybody with one though. If anyone knows how to do this too my company would be happy to pay you to do it.

     

    Thanks ahead of time
     

  9. Posted

    Fsalter I can tell you that if you have the leuopold steel rings they are extremely precise. I am a machinist by trade and I measured them at work on an optical mwahsirng machine and I was highly impressed by the accuracy. That being said I don't believe u would find enough fluctuation to show on a standard level. I suggest the 1 inch steel so you have a "constant" you remove the variable of the scope tube from the problem. If you can't get one I may be able to help you but either way you could check each scope ring on its top plane against the rifles vertical level( without the upper half of the rings on) . And then you could rule out the rings. Also check to make sure with the rings off that both seat well freely against the tube. It's always possible it's not sitting flush . Do you have a any pics of the setup with the levels? Also I don't think shimming would be suggested. You want All the bite you can get from the dovetail so the rings aren't coming loose while firing.

  10. Posted

    hey fslater, this is my favorite mounting video, i use a modified version of this that I have come up with over the years but this will give you a great starting point (IMO). Also what they don't do in this video that i do is use a piece of 1" ground shaft (depends on scope tube size) in my rings and then i level that vertically just to make sure that the rings are sitting at the same height. Let me know if i can help more.

     

     

    IMG_3196_zpsd0exlyjq.jpg

     

     

     

     

    <iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/vmastro87/embed/slideshow/GUN%20VIDEOS/GUN%20LEVELING"></iframe>

     

     

    http://www.vortexoptics.com/video/mounting_a_precision_riflescope

  19. Posted

    Vmasto87, if its the case that you didn't sign anything saying you owe them $110 or that they performed some service, I'm certain your card provider will halt the charge, force to vendor to provide documentation, which they won't have, and wioe the charge from your account. Even if you did sign something, your chances are pretty good as far as getting that cherge reversed.

     

    And I think.... They may be required to provide you with a copy of whatever you may have signed. Look that over. A lot of the scum back contractors include wording now that says you can't post negative reviews on the internet lest you be liable for damages.

     

    Even if thats in something you signed, post reviews of your experience anonymously or under some bogus name so others know what a-holes they are. Just dont use your name or real email address when you post it. There are sites that do nothing but provide reviews or stores, contractors, etc. you may even find some on that rip off outfit.

     

    someone already bashed him on his Facebook page for scamming them (saw that later of course, this guy was a recommendation so i didn't dig to deep on him), and i didn't realize that a simple signature on there paper could take away my first amendment right. I'm not afraid of these scammers ill post my name all over it.

     

     

    The chimney lining and repair business is the biggest scam going , I know a few people who are in the business and i have been in the trades for 30 years. Your lining looks fine, and if the damper is operational leave it alone.

       Have it inspected by the town and go from there. That prick was trying to screw you to the wall. Post the company name please

     I will say this, that if it had to be totally rebuilt you are looking at some big money depending on what material/finish is used and if it runs inside or outside the house.

     

    Problem is the town does not inspect they require you get the inspection from an outside inspector. I will be happy to once i get a written second opinion from a professional. I don't doubt at all this guy was trying to screw me but I'm not a tyrant, i will wait for proof.

  20. Posted

    As someone who does this with millions of dollars of contractor projects a year, if you try to get 10 quotes you won't get any quotes. Talking about proposals in response to bid specs. Word gets around, and nobody puts in $10K or $20 in effort to get a package together when they realize they are competing against everybody on the block. Unless it is an 8 digit job or a government project for which they have a boilerplate and a dedicated government liaison using the shotgun approach.

     

    Probably does not apply to chimney repair, just my 2 cents :)

     

    For small stuff and also for home stuff I usually like to limit contractor quotes to 3 or so unless I'm getting bad ones and need to get a few more. They know each other as well. But that is just a personal habit of mine and not any special wisdom. Even on tiny jobs without anything official, if you keep calling the same guys and a few of them never get any work they will stop showing up if they are not getting paid for it. That is what I do. A high percentage of the people that call you just want you to figure out the source of their problem and offer a solution. That they can use to go to their own guy or to shop around. I rarely do any free estimates anymore unless it is quick or there is a real prize. And, "Hey, we have a lot more work coming, I just want to get you in the door" is the same to me as, "No MSG," "Check is in the mail," "It's for the community," and "I won't come in your mouth."

     

    LMAO last line, perfectly finished, no pun intended.

     

    Yea i feel very taken at this point, I consider myself a smart guy and rarely do I not see a problem coming. This is my first time selling a house though and everything that goes a long with it is new to me, so unfortunately some things have slipped through the cracks with the hectic nature of it.

  23. Posted

    Did you pay his $110 inspection fee??  That's a little excessive too -- I'd give him $40 for his 2 minutes

     

    That chimney looks good to me -- you could run a brush thru it yourself  -- buy the brush at lowes for like $12

     

    Let the code enforcer who gives you the CCO tell you it needs work...

     

    No i did not pay him yet i was seeking advice first. I'm going to let him know this morning, and yes after i get a second professional opioin i will be sure to share the name of the company all over the internet.

  25. Posted

    Definitely get a second opinion.

     

    I am a plumber, not a chimney specialist, but it really does not look bad from the pictures.

     

    If the damper does not work anymore, there are options as well.

     

    Make it safe, but you shouldn't have to replace the whole thing.

     

    Damper is fully functional

     

    I would clean it up and paint it with a Firebox paint and then get a second inspecion from someone else.  I'm not a chimney guy but have been in construction for 20 years.  Typically they can simply drop in a new liner if theres an issue.  Their quote seems a little excessive. It sounds to me like they're trying to take advantage of the fact that you need a C/O to close on the house.

     

    thanks for the inisght guys thats exactly what i thought

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