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About Murphy4570

  • Rank
    NJGF Regular
  • Birthday 01/27/1986

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  • Gender
  • Location:
    West Deptford
  • Interests
    Cars and making them go fast, welding, firearms, reloading, etc.
  • Home Range
  1. Don't look at me, I vote against Sweeney every chance I get. Not my fault too much of Gloucester County loves the bastard.
  2. This might sound odd, but any competent muffler shop can tack weld that for you. Probably won't charge you either.
  3. 3.1 as well as Win 95. Early versions of 95 were not plug and play, IIRC. Windows 95A I think. Didn't support hard drives over 2.1GB in size either, so you would have to format the hard drive with multiple partitions. I haven't messed around with that old stuff since at least 2000-2001. Very outdated and not user-friendly.
  4. I recommend fixing the leak correctly. I have had to fix a number of cars where customers have tried those stop leak magic-in-a-bottle snakeoil bullshit, and it isn't pretty. Clogged heater cores, clogged/mudded up radiators, etc. You end up fucking up more shit by trying to cheap out. Put a pressure tester on the cooling system and find the leak, and fix it the right way. You will save money in the long run. What kind of vehicle is it, may I ask?
  5. I've bought all of mine from Numrich. NOS Soviet issue ones, they work very well. The Chinese aftermarket ones that are sold on popular firearm sales websites are complete junk in comparison. www.gunpartscorp.com
  6. The used value of most durable goods is usually 50-75% of retail price. For example, a Snap-On ratchet I bought new for $100 years ago? Worth about $50 used. Firearms are one of the kings of durable goods, if kept in good condition. Condition, age, rarity, and desireability all play a part in the value of course, as well as manufacturer. I have a 2003 and 2004 edition of a firearms value guide, good at giving a rough estimate, even though it is outdated. Gunbroker is good at getting a rough idea as well for more common stuff. I use that to gauge the price of anything I'm looking to purchase, to make sure I'm buying at about the going market rate or below.
  7. As stated, any real mechanic shop can replace a clutch and pressure plate on a manual transmission vehicle. There is no adjustment in regards to the clutch. If it is slipping, it needs to be replaced as it is worn out. That car should have a hydraulic clutch, so you will be charged for a new slave cylinder, clutch and pressure plate, and to have the flywheel resurfaced. You can clean up a good flywheel with 3M cookies, but that's only if there aren't excessive hot spots and/or warping. You only need to visit a transmission shop when it comes to an actual rebuild of a manual or automatic transmission, as most general repair shops don't have the expertise to perform such repairs. Some can rebuild certain types of manual transmissions, as those are much simpler to overhaul. That depends on the specific skills of the mechanic himself.
  8. Fruit of the poisonous tree. Charges dropped, all weapons returned to owner. Anything not legal in NJ sent to FFL of owner's choice for holding until owner finds a buyer out-of-state.
  9. Just so you are aware, if you come across screws or fasteners in critical locations that you need to absolutely remove, you can always just use an impact driver. Or take a hammer to a screwdriver while twisting, same basic effect. You learn a lot of tricks when you work on rusty cars all day.
  10. I've done layaway at Bob's in Glassboro before. Put $200 down and then made $50 payments a week until it was paid for.
  11. Only truly applicable if he was unloading a flintlock blackpowder pistol circa 1750.
  12. Anything involving safety is training worth having. Especially concerning firearms. The three (four?) rules are paramount, but formal training is a great thing as well.
  13. Shit I thought this thread would be a reference to Robo Cop LOL!
  14. I've had an ongoing issue in regards to a homemade double axle utility/car trailer I own, that mimics your problems. NJ's DMV has ridiculous rules for registering/titling a home made trailer. I personally have just been using a friend's trailer tag on mine when I need to use it. From what I can tell, as long as you have a trailer tag, working lights, and the trailer itself looks clean and functional (i.e., not a rolling pile of shit), the cops won't bother you. If you use it without a tag, you will eventually get ticketed for that. The biggest issue is the cops have the option to impound your trailer if they pull you over for no tag......good luck proving it is yours so you can get it out of hock. I'm gonna look into that Maine tag thing, didn't think of that. I have seen a shitload of 53' tractor trailers with Maine trailer tags.....must be easy to do.
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