Murphy4570

Don't look at me, I vote against Sweeney every chance I get. Not my fault too much of Gloucester County loves the bastard.

This might sound odd, but any competent muffler shop can tack weld that for you. Probably won't charge you either.

3.1 as well as Win 95. Early versions of 95 were not plug and play, IIRC. Windows 95A I think. Didn't support hard drives over 2.1GB in size either, so you would have to format the hard drive with multiple partitions. I haven't messed around with that old stuff since at least 2000-2001. Very outdated and not user-friendly.

I recommend fixing the leak correctly. I have had to fix a number of cars where customers have tried those stop leak magic-in-a-bottle snakeoil bullshit, and it isn't pretty. Clogged heater cores, clogged/mudded up radiators, etc. You end up fucking up more shit by trying to cheap out. Put a pressure tester on the cooling system and find the leak, and fix it the right way. You will save money in the long run. What kind of vehicle is it, may I ask?

I've bought all of mine from Numrich. NOS Soviet issue ones, they work very well. The Chinese aftermarket ones that are sold on popular firearm sales websites are complete junk in comparison. www.gunpartscorp.com

The used value of most durable goods is usually 50-75% of retail price. For example, a Snap-On ratchet I bought new for $100 years ago? Worth about $50 used. Firearms are one of the kings of durable goods, if kept in good condition. Condition, age, rarity, and desireability all play a part in the value of course, as well as manufacturer. I have a 2003 and 2004 edition of a firearms value guide, good at giving a rough estimate, even though it is outdated. Gunbroker is good at getting a rough idea as well for more common stuff. I use that to gauge the price of anything I'm looking to purchase, to make sure I'm buying at about the going market rate or below.

So drive to PA and ship the damn thing from a post office over there.

As stated, any real mechanic shop can replace a clutch and pressure plate on a manual transmission vehicle. There is no adjustment in regards to the clutch. If it is slipping, it needs to be replaced as it is worn out. That car should have a hydraulic clutch, so you will be charged for a new slave cylinder, clutch and pressure plate, and to have the flywheel resurfaced. You can clean up a good flywheel with 3M cookies, but that's only if there aren't excessive hot spots and/or warping. You only need to visit a transmission shop when it comes to an actual rebuild of a manual or automatic transmission, as most general repair shops don't have the expertise to perform such repairs. Some can rebuild certain types of manual transmissions, as those are much simpler to overhaul. That depends on the specific skills of the mechanic himself.

Fruit of the poisonous tree. Charges dropped, all weapons returned to owner. Anything not legal in NJ sent to FFL of owner's choice for holding until owner finds a buyer out-of-state.

Just so you are aware, if you come across screws or fasteners in critical locations that you need to absolutely remove, you can always just use an impact driver. Or take a hammer to a screwdriver while twisting, same basic effect. You learn a lot of tricks when you work on rusty cars all day.

I've done layaway at Bob's in Glassboro before. Put $200 down and then made $50 payments a week until it was paid for.

Only truly applicable if he was unloading a flintlock blackpowder pistol circa 1750.

Anything involving safety is training worth having. Especially concerning firearms. The three (four?) rules are paramount, but formal training is a great thing as well.

Shit I thought this thread would be a reference to Robo Cop LOL!

I've had an ongoing issue in regards to a homemade double axle utility/car trailer I own, that mimics your problems. NJ's DMV has ridiculous rules for registering/titling a home made trailer. I personally have just been using a friend's trailer tag on mine when I need to use it. From what I can tell, as long as you have a trailer tag, working lights, and the trailer itself looks clean and functional (i.e., not a rolling pile of shit), the cops won't bother you. If you use it without a tag, you will eventually get ticketed for that. The biggest issue is the cops have the option to impound your trailer if they pull you over for no tag......good luck proving it is yours so you can get it out of hock. I'm gonna look into that Maine tag thing, didn't think of that. I have seen a shitload of 53' tractor trailers with Maine trailer tags.....must be easy to do.

Take the optics off, field strip the gun as best you can (or at least remove the upper from the lower receiver), and dunk everything metal into a bucket of Evaporust for a day or so. Presto-Chango! All the rust is gone, and with some motor oil or whatever you have lying around to lube the thing, it'd probably work again.

I was a member there a couple years back. I let my membership lapse simply because I haven't been shooting in a long while. Its not a bad place, and it was never busy when I went. Hell half the time I was the only person there. One of the downsides of it is that there isn't really any pro shop of sorts, so if you forget to bring something your SOL. No ability to purchase extra targets on site or ammo etc etc. Membership is the cheapest around, however, so its negatives are offset rather well by that.

That one is so old I received it as a chain e-mail on my AOL account!

Don't lease a car. Ever. Your making rent payments on something that depreciates in value horribly. In the end you will have nothing to show for all the money you spent.

The Federalist Papers and the Anti-Federalist Papers have reams of knowledge pertaining to the debates that raged around the constitutional convention of 1787. That'd be a good place to start. The personal memoirs of the attendees of that convention would be a good place to look as well. Any truly in-depth research would require access to various archives, as much information still hasn't been made available on line, though quite a bit has been. Check your local library. Many have subscriptions to national archival search engines, such as JStor. Additonally, you can contact the history department of your local university, and ask the resident expert on the Revolutionary period on what sources to search out. They would know best, and would quickly point out valuable source material, both primary and secondary. If you contact Rowan University (my alma mater), ask for Dr. Carrigan in the History Department. He is their resident Revolutionary era expert.

Probably my Springfield Mil-Spec M1911A1. Not the easiest or smallest gun to carry "concealed" however....

Go Flyers!!!! They're gonna put some lumps on the Rangers tomorrow and Thursday, that's for sure.

No such thing as "common-sense gun control". Nor would a "free-for-all" be a bad thing. An armed society is a polite society. A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. The last clause there is fairly self explanatory. Any restriction is an infringement. Though I am glad to see that there is someone at the statehouse who is going to vote against all this malarkey.

The going rate around here is $75-80 an hour if your a subcontractor with your own equipment. Minimum 7 foot plow with a 1/2 ton truck. 3/4 ton is better at taking a beating, and you can mount an 8-8 1/2 foot plow. As far as residential goes, I'd say minimum $50-60 to drop your plow. Getting out of the truck to shovel is extra on top of that. Factor travel time into what you charge. If you have someone that wants you to service them, but they're 20 miles away, you'll have to charge a hefty amount.

You want to put chromed parts on a race car? You do know that chrome inhibits heat transfer, right? As for finding a chroming shop, good luck! EPA has been shutting them all down.