Malice4you

My 522 seems to have wear (looks almost burr-like) on barrel side by extractor slot, but extracts fine. Mine prefers Federal AutoMatch (325rd) and CCI MiniMags for best functionality. I have had a broken part on my bolt, so check for cracks in the metal. And if you disassemble the bolt, the metal (or is it screws?) is easy to strip. I also suggest blue loctite. Bolt is easy enough to work on, but there are a few spring loaded parts. May wanna take pics first time. Mine does not like to run dry or dirty.

Or just sue em over BS like NJ and FSS

Thanks for the tag. I expect to be in, likely + a few. Trying to organize a gathering of people should not be harder than herding cats, but that has yet to be the case for me.

Yep, that was us. It got even worse later on. Somehow. I really would love to know why the right side was so much more attractive to them. When cleaning the rifles last night, I was surprised I didn't have multiple bugs trapped under the scope caps. Have had that in the past with stink bugs.

What time were you there? Friend and i were on the right side, being mobbed by approximately ALL of them, plus stinkbugs and ladybugs too

A lot of apps need to know specifics about your ammo, and especially with your long barrel, you may be getting significantly different fps than what boxed ammo or your handloads say you should be. You'll want at least a chrono if you want some more accurate info in an app. I know rimfire is a different beast, but at 200 yards, all the app(s) I use have been off by multiple mils between calculations and real world experience. Part is me using box FPS numbers, part is no one seems to know the correct BC for .22s, and part is probably that the places I've zeroed are not a true 50 or 100 yards (Clinton being 53yd for the 50 berm) I know a lot of (rimfire) people use a Kestrel, but I honestly am not sure what functions it has, if it is a chrono, wind speed guage, etc. I believe it links to an app, possibly their own. As for apps, you are unfortunately too late for easily getting Strelok (Pro), which is one of the best ones I know of. It is a Russian developer, so it isn't available in the play store unless you already had it, apparently. The free version had fewer options, but was still very useful. I have used Shooting Solution for years, which apparently is also delisted now. Not sure why. Lapua Ballistics is still available and I have used that. But with .22s, even their own app and shooting Lapua ammo does not show the expected results. That said, it gives you lots of options for data entry on your cartridge and is worth a download. I expect it is perfectly adequate for centerfire. Each app has a nice feature the others are missing, so youll probably want multiple apps anyway. I forget what scope model you have, but I think I saw a Vortex app in the list. May be worth looking into if that has anything useful in it

Been using LEDs exclusively for years. Have had 2 go out prematurely, 1 was replaced under warranty, the other one of the 'panels' flickers for a few seconds when turned on, then works fine, so it was moved to the basement. Had CFLs before going LED. No comparison, I will take LED any day. No bullshit dim warmup, you can turn LED on and off quickly/often without severely reducing lifespan, far less fragile, usually way brighter in a more compact size, etc. Get high Color Rendering Index (CRI) bulbs if you want a bulb that reproduces colors accurately. Cheap bulbs may make things look duller or less vibrant. Unfortunately, most bulbs fail to list this value. I believe 100 would be a perfect score, so 90+ is optimal. Learn about color temperature (°K) 3000K +/- 400 should reproduce the warm colors of fillament bulbs. Most likely to match old bulbs if using a mix 4000K +/- 500 is IMO a good compromise of warmth without being too warm or too cool 5000K +/- 500 is a cool color and will be very blue if mixed with fillament bulbs. May match better if used with florescent bulbs The lower the K number, typically the more orange or yellow hue the light will have, the higher the number, the more blue. Many bigger stores have a display of the different colors side by side. My biggest complaint about LEDs: Some (not all) have a perceptable delay between being switched on and the light output. I do find it annoying, but I'll take that over a dim CFL startup that takes a while to get to full brightness. Many LEDs cannot be used on dimmer switches. None of my bulbs flicker (excluding the faulty one, which only temporarily, partially blinks for a few seconds). I've found good deals on Amazon of 10+ packs for replacing many lightbulbs all at once, so everything matches. That said, buy spares because some will inevitably die early and getting an exact match later may be hard. Power savings and less heat are significant. So is lifespan - some of my old LED bulbs (in fixtures where itd be annoying to replace em yearly) are still in use 8+ years in, and are used daily multiple hours a day. I can run 6-8 LED bulbs for same energy 1 old bulb used. As someone said, helps for the generator, too.

And here I thought the personalized handgun commission was about customized handguns. Engraving, optic cut slides and different optics, custom colors and coatings, different grips, etc. I mean, I guess it is. Just instead of being cosmetic upgrades to guns that will fire every time you want it to, these upgrades are to ensure that 50 percent of the time, it works every time, as long as your hand isnt sweaty and the battery is good and you remembered your special bracelet and there aren't too many wifi devices around and the bullets are compatible with 9mm-115G-v1.0.4.A firmware. That said, it would be interesting to see how easy these things will be to hack. Would be hilarious if ATF had to ban them because a magnet turns em into full auto or something.

I got Serpas initially for airsoft, and eventually for a few other real guns. Despite plenty of bumps into trees/doorframes/rocks, rolling on the ground, etc, I never had em lock up or break, nor have I had a finger end up anywhere inside the trigger guard. As I have transitioned to IWB, they are most commonly used to hold the guns inside my cabinets. If I ever airsoft again, I'd still use em. Eventually they'll be replaced, but the fullsize guns are a low priority to get IWB holsters for. Apparently I will be like all of you with a box of old unused holsters that will continue to get filled with more and more holsters.

Currently in +2+ Thanks

Perhaps not the most modern system, but an overclocked i7-4790K, 32GB RAM, overclocked RTX 2070 Super, 2x PCIe cards, 3x SSD, 3x HDDs, 2x DVD drives, and a ton of fans, on an 850W 80+ Titanium, with two LCDs, connected to an APC 1500VA UPS is showing 164-190 watts at idle via APC's software. Turning the older, less efficient 2nd monitor off drops load to as low as 103W. Granted, it'll jump significantly if doing anything serious, but even then, during blackouts, I've had time to exit from a graphics-heavy game and safely shut down with plenty of battery life left.

Had a discussion with someone today at the range about a target I had designed, and he thought would be useful. Coulda sworn I'd uploaded some here before, but I can't find some of my more recent targets on here. This is a mix of 31 targets that I've made up for myself and friends. These were mostly designed for precision rimfire rifles at 25, 50, or 100 yards (though I had 50 yards in mind for most of them, and you may use them at whatever range challenges you). Some targets were designed for plinking, while others were designed to be a challenge for guns and shooters capable of sub-MOA shooting. A number of targets are "Know Your Limits" type - where the scoring severely penalizes misses. If competing among friends with these targets, make sure all shooters are using the same target version (the version name is usually between the practice area and scored shooting area, i.e. KYL33 R3 scoring is different from KYL33 R4, despite looking very similar). The first page has instructions for printing, but I will repeat here: DO NOT scale the page to fit, even if your print dialog says the page is larger than the printable area. Nothing particularly critical is within 1/4" of the edge and most printers will not cut anything off, so be sure to print actual size, 100%. Failure to do so will likely make any measurements listed incorrect, and will make the targets more challenging. I use a laser printer and heavier paper - 28-32lb paper is much more expensive, but tends to be less prone to tearing and is usually easier to score. Hope you enjoy these targets_mix_31.pdf

Having never eaten one, I have only ever seen pictures of one. But whenever I imagine one, all I can think of are either: Those "fancy" erasers that were popular in the early 90s (I think) that were in various extruded colors and made to look like slices of fruit or foods or whatever, but were utterly useless as an eraser Those kinds of dog treats with three colors nested inside each other to represent...I dunno. Bone, meat, skin? Having never tasted the latter two either, I feel they are about as appealing as vaguely rib-shaped processed meat around fake bones

No idea how to fix it, but unless you disabled it, you likely have either/both a google account or samsung account tied to it, which if signed into on a new device should have things like contacts saved and automatically restored. It might be possible that other things were also saved and could be restored. If you are getting by with an S10 (i.e. don't want/need a flagship), you may wanna look at the Samsung A5_ series of phones, which seem to have pretty respectable specs - similar to a generation or two old flagship - with pricetags that are not absolutely insane. Furthermore, the S23 will be out quite soon, so there may be deals on that or new old stock S22s/21s to clear them out of stock

Seeing how they want you to provide proof your gun is yours for a NJ carry permit, there's one. And I just read about one of the other dumbass states, I believe Illinois or Cali, recently tried to pass some BS requiring proof of ownership (prior to enactment of said BS) within 4 days, or they could sieze and/or destroy the gun(s). I don't recall specifics, but found the link somewhere on this forum.

It is incredibly simple. Been years since I did mine, but it was very easy. Think first one was under an hour or two, going slow (lower only). I followed instructions from probably AR15.com but videos are probably even better A few things, you may want to put tape over certain areas so you don't mar surface. Believe especially doing bolt catch. Work inside a clear plastic bag. Think the glove chambers scientists work with dangerous chemicals in, on a 20 cent budget. When (and it is WHEN, NOT if) one of the springs or pins tries to go into low earth orbit, it will remain in a bag, not the other end of the house, somehow. Support the tabs for the trigger guard by putting a piece of wood under it so you cant snap the tab off while putting in a trigger guard roll pin. And buy a better guard that fills the gap better so those 2 tabs don't dig into your fingers. I would buy the flat stamped metal AR tool for castle nut over the 65-in-1 3D tools that are 3x the price (and don't work), unless you need the extra crap. Other tools, I had good enough examples already, so that'll depend on what you have

I run an HP color laserjet. Since it has 4 cartridges, it is more expensive to replace 4 toners, but that said, they also last thousands of pages over years, and I can replace only the color I need to. I still am using the original C, M, and Y cartridges after owning this printer probably 3 or 4 years, with at least 30% life left on em IIRC. The print settings also can specify when the printer will use color or just the (in mine, high yield) black toner. I do print enough in color to justify using a color laser, but a basic B&W laser is significantly cheaper, still should last years with infrequent printing. How often is color printing really needed for the average person, anyway? I've run lasers at home for probably 25 years, and I'm pretty sure I've only had 3 units, all HPs. Go (HP) laser unless you absolutely have to have color (then consider HP color laser after researching if toner prices are palatable).

Some people's skin oils are more corrosive than others. Or maybe it was a super hot, humid day the last time you used/carried it, and you were sweating through a pocket. Or you cut something corrosive and didn't clean it fully. Or dust/lint on the blade attracted moisture. Or sat near an AC vent and somehow temperature fluctuations caused condensation. Or as you said, it could be a bad batch of steel or bad luck. I probably still have at least 6 blades using that exact steel, with no more care than wiping it off against my jeans, with zero steel corrosion, all at least 10 years old. My 8CR13MOV blades are cheap workhorses to me and have never been treated particularly well, and have been exposed to rainy days, significant amounts of box cutting, lots of sweat and humid days. I've got nothing particularly bad to say about the steel, other than it IS Chinese, and edge holding obviously isn't as good as other more expensive steels. I'd much rather have 8CR13MOV over 99% of the 4xx series stainless blades out there, so I don't think it is a bad steel at all. I don't really treat the majority of my blades that specially, again wiping the blade free of fingerprints spine-first against my jeans a few times on each side. Has worked for me so far, even for far more rust-prone steels. If you'd like something truly rustproof, look into H1 steel. My experience with H1 is that it can get very sharp but does tend to lose its edge faster than my typical EDCs with CPMS30V or VG10, though I think at least one of mine needed a complete reprofiling before it ever felt sharp enough.

I have WMLs on the HD guns, so this was not about HD. I'm considering a TLR7 or something a bit narrower than the TLR1S I have currently on my bedside gun for the everyday carry pistol, which would be helpful for those kind of situations . I have a flashlight on me at pretty much all times, and so, so many flashlights stashed around at least the house. I wanted the ability to have a decent light without the need to tie up one hand holding the light. For the headlamp, I did end up with an olight H2R, which has performed exceptionally well for sometimes hours of nonstop use. It has been quite comfortable, despite being aluminum and holding an 18650, i honestly hardly notice it is there. The beam is very wide and quite uniform, and while it doesn't throw like a traditional light, it is more than enough to illuminate 25-75+ft (depending on brightness) across 45+° and identify any hazards. I tend to use it on the lower 2 settings, but high and turbo are there for if I need a lot of light.

Obviously, I'd elect for a slung MP5K. Or two. Or go full Matrix, two 92FS, two micro Uzis, aforementioned MP5K(s), two Skorpions I have three now I'd consider based on size/weight - LC9S Pro, Glock 23 G4, and Sig Pro 2022. I'd consider adding something like a Glock 43X, a Sig 365 variant, likely XL, or possibly a Sig P320 subcompact variant. Probably plenty of others I'd briefly consider, like a P228/M11, P239, P225, P229/M11A1, etc, but weight, capacity, and/or size would likely rule a number out for serious EDC. I've carried a P226 and 1911 and they can get a bit annoying when lighter/smaller alternatives are available. Is a 1911 still a BBQ gun if it doesn't have a fancy leather holster?

Sig Pro 2022? Its like a lighter weight version of a P229/P226 hybrid. Maybe 365XL or X Macro. 365 is amazingly tiny, but I think if I were to buy a specific CCW gun, I would go XL. Though after handling a Glock 43X, I might give that serious consideration. Though if you are so comfortable with a 320 platform, I don't get why you wouldn't go with one, customized to your exact preferences.

For what it is worth, I have been carrying at home for years. OWB at first, but in the last year(ish) IWB. I have carried a Sig 1911, Sig P226, Glock 23 g4, Sig Pro 2022, and Ruger LC9S pro. If you have never carried a 1911, or metal framed pistol, or other fullsize gun, you may reconsider those choices fairly quickly once you do start. Not saying it is impossible, but large and/or heavy gets old quick. I have been going back and forth carrying the LC9S Pro and G23, and that LC9S disappears compared to the G23. Even the G23 feels significantly lighter and smaller than the P226, which is a featherweight compared to a 1911. Perhaps you can and would want to. I believe the obvious answer is to get a 8"(+) .44 mag or .500 S&W revolver, a 10" Desert Eagle (can share ammo if you go .44 Mag!), and a High Point (because those are just as heavy and thick as the other two suggestions.)

Obvious answer, gain 30 or 40 pounds, duh! Then that is a 'feature' - "ComfortFit Holster Angling for Guts(TM)" or something. Does that belt have a permastiff insert? Even a 1911 in a Serpa doesn't angle out that much (though it is a paddle type) with the 5.11 belts I've owned. Not sure of the attachment point system that holster uses, but I have seen lots of options out there on ebay for different belt clips, which might potentially work better for you. I've had to replace a clip for the kydex kimber pepperblaster holster I have worn for the last 7 years, and the hole spacing seems to be pretty standard on many of these. Sucks to have to do it yourself, but might find something to make you happier.

"But we have to do something! Won't anyone think of the children? If it will save just one life. Weapons of war don't belong on our streets. Vaporizes targets." Did I miss any talking points? Made these a while ago, sadly still true

Have owned a few of these, nice belts. Permastiff insert will eventually start to go at whatever hole you use most, and if you keep using it, likely the leather will start cracking there too. Because I have owned a few and bought some for my father, I can't really remember how long they last, but between 4-7 years seems about right, worn every single day. Compared to cheap designer belts you'd find in most stores, they last WAY longer, and do not sag or come apart, even when that insert starts to go at the belt hole(s). I've carried a 1911 OWB with this belt, and the right side of my pants does tend to pull down a bit more from the weight, but it still holds fine. I now wear a Hanks 21oz steel core belt every day. It is built like a tank, it's like 3/8" thick, and I would bet it would indeed last the full 100 years of the warranty, based on my ownership so far. I dunno if I needed the thickness, certain things like mag pouches may not fit if not designed for a larger thickness, but it holds everything fine after replacing the stuff that couldn't handle that thickness. Hanks does offer other gun belts that are a little less expensive, but I don't know what kind of liner they use, if any. If you gotta go through metal detectors often (when not carrying), dunno how much you'd like that steel core for an everyday belt. I have been meaning to order another Amberide mag holster for a single stack 9mm, already have ones for doublestack 9/.40 and single stack .45. When I got the Hank's belt, these holsters were some of the least expensive kydex universal options, but I've been quite impressed by them.