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Malice4you

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Everything posted by Malice4you

  1. Can't tell from picture what length barrel you have, but if its an 18", it seems uncommon to have anything but a cylinder bore. If you aren't hunting or doing lots of skeet/trap shooting, probably not too big an issue, your shot spread will just be wider. I have sucessfully used an 18" barreled cylinder bore Benelli Supernova to bust clays as long as I don't try to hit anything too far out. You should be able to shoot any 2 3/4 or 3" shell out there, though i believe sabot slugs may not work well in a smoothbore. Otherwise, 000 buck, 4 buck, #7.5 or #9 shot, and anything between should shoot fine (if wider spread) out of it. Since its an 870, if you require a barrel with a choke, used and new barrels are out there everywhere (except maybe these last few months)
  2. I have used glow inc ultra green for years on airsoft and real firearms, including a 12ga and .40 glock. My experience is it likes a fairly thick layer. If feasible, i like to drill out the sight hole a little so I can have a recessed area to fill in. It seems to like white paint underneath. I fill the cavity with the glow paint, compressing it in as best i can, usually using 2 applications so it dries better, and on the last layer of paint, i sprinkle additional ultra fine glow powder. My paint is old and not sure if it is water or solvent based, but mine after over 10 years is more of a moist paste. If you let it sit a bit as it is drying, it should be similar and can be shaped and formed pretty well with toothpicks exacto wax paper etc to form shapes or make better circles. Once done shaping, leave the paint overnight. Paint has an odor when wet so if someone is sensitive, do it in a garage. I have never coated mine. It will have a coarse texture when dry, and loose bits will brush away. The paint itself is a very hard material and if sitting on a surface may be prone to chipping if hit from an angle, but i have never lost any in a recessed area in over 10 years. It dries to a yellowish greenish off white color which is easy enough to see in daytime. Glowed up with a serious flashlight 1-2seconds, ultra green will be significantly brighter than any tritium night sight I own for about 5 minutes, and might actually cast a glow that lights up surrounding area a few inches. After the initial glow dies down, there is a glow which lasts for hours, depending on how adjusted your eyes are to darkness. My shotgun sights are painted in this, and i can wake up at 4am and look over next to the bed and see a faint glow that was from sunlight and turning bedroom lights on before bed. As poor mans tritium, it works well enough and allows shapes to be made fairly easily (think glock rear U). I'll try to add some pics if i remember when on PC.
  3. Can I have a few of these mounted to my car? Or at least the golf ball ones? That was an entertaining video. Wonder what woulda happened if they got to the full 1000psi. Guess next up has to be a 4500psi bowling ball launcher...
  4. I know Nikon had a few slug shotgun scopes at some point. I have not used those but own 4 Nikon scopes and have been pleased with them. That said, I believe Nikon has gotten out of the riflescope business and all those models are discontinued. You might be able to find them on clearance. Up to you to determine if potential lack of warranty replacement is worth any potential savings.
  5. One ex shot my P226 quite well, another ex preferred my 1911. Both universally disliked the large target grips of my S&W 22A. Gun fit and manipulation are a major issue for some women, no matter if it is a long gun or a handgun. We often forget that fit can be a huge thing for a new shooter who is physically very different from us. I watched a new-to-.223 tween at the bench next to me Sunday and kept thinking she would be better off if that stock could just be adjusted to fit her better (thanks NJ...). Before I have someone shoot a gun, i always ensure they are capable of rendering a gun safe. Some guns seem harder to lock the slide open than other guns for some women. It could be design or layout of the gun, strength of springs, strength of the shooter, or a combination of those issues. Weight can be both a good and bad thing - recoil absorbsion is great, but weight can also be tiring. For a new shooter, i typically always start with single rounds of .22 in a rifle and work up to bigger rifles. Once I have someone reasonably comfortable with rifles, then move to handguns, again with a single round at first. Depending on the person, it will typically be a Sig Mosquito .22 or Sig P226 9mm. From there, I may have them shoot other 9mm, .40, or .45 handguns as their comfort and skills dictate.
  6. Anyone want to buy a Sigma 300-800mm f5.6 EX canon ef mount? Some of those old camera bodies are worth next to nothing these days, sadly.
  7. I would probably have to sell off the majority of my guns to afford the setup I would like in an AI. Not saying I haven't considered it, just not exactly an impulse buy for me. Few more pics with my old Savages
  8. Rifle alone was $1070. Not sure what's next. An O/U is one of the other things that has been calling my name since at least the first shotgun shoot I went to. Also on list are a Vudoo V22 in an AICS chassis and a AI AW/AE/AT in .308 or one of the 6.5/6.8 calibers, though those are a long, long way off, unless I do decide on consolidating and sell off a ton of guns. I wanted the Anschutz for 9 years, but I've wanted an AI for at least 20 years
  9. So here is my newest acquisition, an Anschutz 1807 single shot .22LR. I first heard of Anschutz 9 years ago, when I was waiting on my background check for my first gun purchase. I saw a beautiful rifle at the store, but the pricetag was a bit too steep for me at that time. I didn’t forget about the Anschutz name, and would occasionally torture myself looking at the website or pictures of various models over the years. A few months ago, I started doing casual research, which became serious research and reading, which became browsing gunbroker, then setting up alerts on gunbroker, which turned into bidding on gunbroker. It is a damn slippery slope, that researching stuff. This 1807 features a trigger that is absolutely insane to me. I can’t measure the trigger pull because my pull gauge doesn’t go nearly low enough, but it is around 2oz or less. After the first trigger pull, it may have ruined most other triggers for me. The Savage Mark II that I am used to shooting has a 12-14oz trigger pull, and I thought that was light, until I tried using the Mark II again after using the 1807 for a while. I have no idea how I can use some of my old guns with much worse triggers ever again. Accuracy is amazing too, capable of putting 3 rounds through the same hole with my barely above average shooting abilities without even finding the ammo the gun prefers yet. It became my favorite gun before I’d even held it. To say I was excited about it was an understatement – I had a permanent grin on my face from the day I bought it, and the NICS backlog was torture.
  10. Based on 3 seconds of research, the Savage 64 (their .22 semi auto line) uses a totally different magazine, so I would guess you are probably good to go, unless theres some old obscure semiauto Stevens or other Savage that uses the mags that I've never heard of. That said, it is said that the 5 round mags tend to have fewer feed issues than the 10s. I have 2x 5rd and 1x 10rd for my Mark II and all feed fine so far, but my Savage 93R17 10rd mags definitely DO have more problems than the 5.
  11. References usually can't be relatives, but can be friends out of state. Make sure email address is correct. Employer will probably be contacted. Mine has not been in the past, but assume they will.
  12. I've taken a number of women shooting, and something a lot of us forget about is "fit" - most guns are designed around guys. NJ does not help things by limiting options for semi-autos, so what is comfortable for my 6'2" frame is probably less comfortable for a 5'6" teenager or woman. If you have an adjustable stock rifle, that may be best - an improper fit can make shooting less pleasant for smaller statured people. Also remember to show them how to focus the scope (if using one) because their eyes are likely different than yours, and having blurry crosshairs or parallax set wrong would suck for them. I personally always start everyone off with a .22 rifle loaded with a single round (typically on a bipod with a scope), after covering the basics of safety and operation of the rifle. Once proficient with a single shot, I move to multiple rounds in a mag, then .17HMR, .223, etc. Once I (and THEY) are confident in using the rifle, I will start them out on handgun, again single shot typically and usually a .22 - but fit does still come into play. For example, I have a target S&W 22A with large target grips, even for my hands. Most women will not be able to hold it very comfortably, so it is an option they can try, but not an ideal starting gun. By the end of my first day with a former girlfriend, I had worked her up to trying a mosin, and she shot 2 or 3 rounds (with a limbsaver, making the damn thing even longer). Had I started her out on the Mosin, it probably would have been a very short, one shot day. Make sure ear pro is properly worn - if the foam ear plugs are barely in, having extremely loud, ear damaging noises constantly going off will be a turn off. If possible, be off to a side where fewer people are. Some people will be quite self conscious when starting, especially if they aren't hitting things at first. If you have a place to shoot reactive targets, bring them. Those tend to be more fun than simply shooting paper. Something I made up for new shooters: http://malice4you.com/images/realsteel/gunsafety2.pdf A one page (double sided) little handout to try and cover as much as possible while also trying to not be an overload. If I can get people to read that before we even go, they seem to have a better grasp of things, and I'm less likely to forget to mention something important.
  13. For NJ's Clinton WMA, I made a couple target stands out of 2x3s. A single stand should take 3 2x3s, a small box of 2.5" deck screws, and a large piece of cardboard to hang targets on. My first two I made, I used a few lag bolts for base and Kreg screws/pocketholes for rest, but that is unnecessary. I also had some large galvanized nails I was gonna use to hold the legs in place, but after seeing how sturdy these have been, I've never needed em. I used a few super large galvanized nails to hang reactive targets like chunks of wood off the side of the stand (second pic). As long as you have some sort of tape measure, drill, and saw, you can make these things dirt cheap, and they fit in the back seat of (my) car. Because they are two piece, you can transport and store them easier. The original two I made in 2018 have taken a few hits from new shooters with a .22 and/or .17HMR and are still intact with the original wood pieces. Long as you don't use wood glue or strip the heads of (or shoot) the screws, it should be as simple as removing 4 screws to replace any single piece of wood. I chose the size for my stands based on holding two letter pieces of paper. The second one on the right is a scaled down version from the one in the above plans.
  14. Do you have any serious amount of time behind a rifle? You are making assumptions that I'm not sure you should be making without having trigger time. A precision rifle likely does not have a 5 pound trigger pull, and I would hazard a guess that many are sub 3 or even 2 pounds. Even the cleanest, smoothest, crispest breaking trigger ever is not gonna help you with long range accuracy if it is set to 5 pounds, as far as I am concerned. My two .22s are set to 12-14oz and the other I can't measure, but the trigger is capable of 2-8oz pull and I know it is on the low end of that range. Obviously these are for bench shooting, not for field use. I don't know how the 10/22 trigger or barrel attach exactly, but typically those go on/into the receiver (as does the scope), so not sure how you will be practicing much of anything. Also, certain triggers need the gun to be properly assembled to not damage components, so things like firing the trigger could cause problems since there are no parts to interact with like normal. Again, i get it, the wait sucks, not having everything sucks, and we are raining on your parade telling you everything but what you want to hear. You would be FAR better off asking if you can go shooting with someone and buy ammo from them so you have a little *actual* experience to base your wants and needs off of.
  15. I get the appeal of the challenge of a .22 at 300 yards. Currently both my precision .22s (bolt guns) are set up for 100yd zero, and using hold over/unders, I feel confident I can get on paper with first shot at 25, 50, 100, and 200 yards. With a 25MOA base, I could probably do 300yd with some practice, but would need steel gongs and/or a good spotting scope. So I get the appeal, and I get it can be a fun challenge. I just think you gotta work on getting things right at closer ranges first. If your groups are 6" at 100 yards, the only way you are gonna reliably get hits at 300 yards is on a huge 3x3' target. A 10/22 can be a good platform, and a fine gun to start with, but gotta learn to walk before you can run...
  16. 300 yards will be a challenge, not gonna lie. Whatever scope you'll be using will need plenty of elevation adjustment range, and you'll need at least a 25MOA rail I would assume. The way you worded it, it sounded like you were going to use a non-magnified type of sight. The one time I have shot a .22 at 200yd (thanks to Mrs. Peel!), my 16x mil-mil scope on 0moa bases put me just a hair under 8 full mils down from my 100yd zero. A .22 standard velocity round will typically drop in excess of 16 feet at 300 yards (and 4 of those feet are in the last 25 yards). This is something I made for myself to fairly quickly get myself on paper at ranges I'd typically use my .22s at. That blue line about .45 mils below the crosshairs is where I needed to aim using my 100yd zeroed .223rem rifle for 200yds (that's a little over 13" drop) I know you are excited to get started, but I think you do need to slow down a little and do further research before you start spending money on other parts which may or may not help you in your quest. Mrs. Peel is being modest. She did very well without even factoring in that she had to use a borrowed rifle which doesn't fit her particularly well, and that neither of us had any serious experience shooting at 200 yards. While neither of our groups were sub-MOA, with some more trigger time, I can imagine those groups shrinking a bit. Especially when it's her rifle set up and fit properly for her.
  17. I do not own a 10/22, so I can't help much for trigger or barrel. I do know Lilja are supposed to be some top of the line barrels, but no idea if they are made for 10/22s, or if they are within budget if they are. Barrel I was looking up for my Anschutz woulda been $450+ The forum rimfirecentral may have a lot more people who can answer specific 10/22 questions. What do you consider long range for .22? Are you doing aperture sights of some sort, and if so, do the barrels you linked have a mounting point for the front sights? Bull barrels often do not have a front sight mount.
  18. There is ZERO reason to order any of the accessory parts to an FFL - you will be wasting your time, their time, and their space for something that is legal to own. And probably wasting extra money too, unless you have some agreement with an FFL. Don't order a magazine over 10 rounds. Keep track of the number of evil features, like threaded barrel and folding stocks and grenade launchers and bayonet lugs. (You know, the real big problems in NJ - pretty sure my town loses at least two dozen people a night to drive-by bayonettings.) The only thing that you should need an FFL for will be the receiver and possibly gunsmithing if required, or I suppose if you REALLY gotta have a 25rd magazine body and need it pinned to 10rd. It is up to YOU to research what is legal if you are building a rifle once you can legally obtain that receiver. There are threads covering exactly what you can and can't have. Start here:
  19. I had a really good Taylor Ham n cheese on a hamburger bun recently, and I think I prefer that over a roll. Or was thread drift about shotguns for a few posts OK now?
  20. I guess they sold the $295,000 one - i don't see that in the list anymore. Unless it was a new one. It is nice of them to put a few on sale to $68,500 from $73,000. Makes it a steal, a gun for the everyman.
  21. I suggest you check the prices of some of these expensive pipes then... http://secure.griffinhowe.com/usedgun-sg.cfm
  22. I was too cheap to buy a whole new setup for that rifle, so I went with bore snake. Long as you run it often, I'd try for every 150-200 rounds, seems to have been keeping things in check for me.
  23. The only guns I've willingly used steel case ammo in were my Mosin and my AK. Based on what I have seen, I could use steel in everything and should hold up fine, but I would prefer not to. Might be fine for some cheap SHTF scenario, but I'd prefer to stick to aluminum minimum for cheap ammo. My 9mms have all eaten it up fine with zero issues over the years.
  24. Isnt the rule after 3285 days with no reply the FFL can release the gun to you?
  25. Been waiting over 9 years to get whats sitting in NICS jail. Hope i get a call today...nothing yet from Friday afternoon. Edit: Got the call around 3 today that my background check went through. Was submitted around 2pm on friday.
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