twong11219

This may help you out. The responses are in the grey. I say better safe than sorry. Chuck the brake in a lathe and turn down the threads if you like it that much. I personally have a FSC556 installed and now worry about confronting LEO with small pinkies. http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php?/topic/20721-nj-legal-muzzle-brakes/

I was cleaning up my BCG last night and took a closer look at what the bolt carrier is actually touching in the receiver. Maybe my bolt is different as I have an SR15 with Knight's proprietary BCG and don't have a mil-spec carrier to compare to, but there's only 4 points of contact. Seems to be the same from the images I've Google'd. If you're looking at the carrier from the front, the contact points are on the left and right of 12 o'clock, 4 and 8 o'clock position. So, just oiling those key points of contact is all that's really required. The rest of the carrier doesn't contact the receiver. A few drops of oil does go a long way.

You must share some pics of your ordeal. Reminds me of my projects with endless surprises. You have my sympathy.

If you still want to take another crack at it, try drilling a hole in the pin and use a screw extractor to see if you can break what's ever bonding it in. Sorry, don't know any smiths in your area.

Hmmmm, so even the barrel's wet too. I was always told to run a wet patch, then a dry patch to take off the excess. I assume any areas where hot gases will be in contact of should be left dry for the BCG. I'll give Slip2000 a try too. Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

So in essence, I am already running wet when I put oil on my finger and coat my bcg and charging handle. I usually smudge FP-10 everywhere.

I keep hearing the term running your AR's wet. What parts are you drenching up with oil? Thank for any info.

Out of curiosity... Can you bring a 14.5 upper and pin a 1.5" comp like the Dynacomp to make it NJ compliant? Seeing what my options are on a personal project, and this seems related to the OP's question. Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread, if it came out that way.

Do what I did. Call them up and work out a schedule. Try it out in different positions at the shop. Pinned it before I left the shop. Did it all in one trip. They pinned it while we were processing the paperwork. Joe and Nick were really cool about it. FYI, if you plan to run optics, bring it along. Try it in various stances, I did.

It's easy to do when it's in your possession, but if it's in the FFL's hands, and they won't transfer them to you or let you make them compliant at their store, you'll likely need to send them to another FFL that'll take care of the pinning, then transfer to you. Not sure where you're from, but I went to Mastodon up north for my pin job on an FFL transfer. I ordered a complete SR15 and needed the full neutering job so I wanted to have it shipped to a one-stop shop that could to the work and allow me to go pick it up w/o any compliance beef.

Sorry, just saw this. I don't know how much it cost as I picked up mine used. The previous owner already did it. It was what I was going to do anyway if I bought it w/o. I checked around and only stumbled on one place that was asking $160 for the mod. Sounded a bit pricey. Buying the tools and doing it yourself costs twice as much so still a better deal to have a smith with a lathe to do it correctly.

Count me in too.

As an added note, the A1s have a heavy barrel too. The barrel wall is thicker than the 500s and 590s. My A1 barrel was reamed and threaded to accept chokes. Currently a Carlson modified choke is sitting in it. Busting clay pigeons was not an issue for me. I plan to use mine for some 3G fun so I figured having a stronger barrel was going to be a plus if I start banging it against things or dumping it in barrels. Come out to the next shotgun meet and test it out. Plenty of nice members to help you out. WARNING! Bring lotsa ammo.

From my research when I was shopping for one, I found there is no win-win choice. At the end, I chose the FSC 556 just because it didn't blast back at me. It was perfectly fine for me and the ppl behind me, but sorry for the ppl on my sides, ie., my spotter. As an added note for one of the days I went to EGFA, there were 3 others with the same comp as mine and another with a Miculek. So if you're not going to be dishing it, still be prepared to receive it. Find one that works best for you and tell your fellow neighbors to double-up on the ears. If you do want one that's pretty quiet, my friend has the Dynacomp 1.5 that works very well. When I'm spotting for him on the side, no noticeable blast.

Looks good on you Dino. You didn't miss a thing. Just kept dusting all of them. You have to admit, the furniture on that thing was beautiful. The wood looked like polished marble. I was the one there with the red dot on my scattergun. Thanks for letting us break in your new thrower. I'm considering one now too. It's too addicting. That was Steven who brought the nice gear. As quoted from him, "they're meant to be used." I guess you just have to enjoy it while you can cuz you never know what's around the corner.

#4. Steven #6. Jim #13. twong11219 - Tim

Thanks for a memorable experience. This was my first time for everything. Christening my first shotgun, shooting clay for the first time, using the thrower. Got to play with ALOT of new toys. Thanks for all the tips everyone's provided. Although this was the first for everything, definitely won't be the last. It was nice meeting everyone. Hope to see y'all in the next meet. I'll be sure to bring more lead next time. Can't believe I went through 4 boxes in such a short period of time. My shoulder will pay for it in the morning. Tim

I'd like to add a guest to the roster please. Thank you.

Count me in.

I tested this finish on my project 1911 and 228 and love how they came out. I bought the bake-on version. It's very easy and forgiving to apply. I used an airbrush with a hi-flow nozzle. Yes, the smell is not cool and it's quite messy to clean up, but cheap and worth it. With my alien blood sweat, I just devour blued finishes. Constantly oiling and wiping down was a pain. I also didn't like the oily residue on my hands. With Cerakote, I just leave it dry. No more oily hands. In the beginning, tight fitted parts will be very tight depending how thick you coat your parts. Everything will break in after a session or two and will function normally. I've started the wear test in my kydex holster, but finish is still holding strong. Clean up is a breeze and fouling just wipes off. I think Cerakote is it's own lubricant so even running rails dry to test. As with most finishes, preparations is the most important part. I media blasted my parts, parkerized it, then Cerakoted it. Trying to give the coating as much bite as possible to stay on. My two advice would be wear a mask or respirator and make several light to medium coats instead of few heavy coats. Make sure the coating is completely dry before baking. Little bubbles will occur in the finish if baked too soon. Only solution to fix it is take off the finish and start over from bare metal. You can't spray on top of a cured finish and rebake. I asked Cerakote customer support.

IMO, do whatever makes your day more enjoyable. I've gone both ways. I wear them if my wrist bothers me, and I want a little cushion and easier grip. I try not to be dependent on them as most situations when SHTF, you're not gonna have time to slap on some gloves unless you wear gloves on a regular basis.

Thanks. Glad I joined and for a friend that recommended this site. Definitely very informative.

Well, finally got home and whipped out the caliper. The tube was a little wider at the lips. The follower was a little narrower. So last round was riding a little higher than old mags. The slide stop rests right on the follower with my old mags but doesn't push it up on last roung. 1/16" of an inch off can push the slide stop up just enough to catch the edge of the slide to lock. Followed DD's tip and did the swap along with pinching the lips a little to match specs of old mags. Loose follower in tighter tubes and bigger follower in looser tubes. All mags fully operational now. Manually cycled some snap caps and all cycled fint. So happy my mags are all fully operational now. Thank you everyone for your help! Glad my friend recommended I post on this site.

I have 4 old ones that work flawlessly (2-10rd and 2-15rd) and the problem children are my 2 new 15rds. Both new ones exhibit the same issue. Gonna whip out the caliper tonight to measure the tubes to see if something has changed. Already contacted Beretta Customer Service, and they told me to send them in to inspect. 2wk turnaround is a long time since I need them by the second week. Thanks for the advice. I'll try the follower and spring swap to see if it makes a difference. Guess they just don't make them like the use to. If anyone has another fix or idea, keep'em com'in. Thx.

Just picked up some 15rd factory mags for my 92FS (9mm) in preparations for a match, and I'm having issues with the follower hitting the slide stop while the last round is still in the mag. Tested with Aguila 124gr. My older factory mags, 4 to be exact, never had this issue. Popped out the followers to see if the design changed any from old and new. they match perfectly. Anyone else came across this problem? What's the fix? Thanks for reading this. Any input much appreciated.