mikka1

Darn, I so wish I could join you, but hopefully I'll be in NC that weekend :-(

Cross posting this from PAFOA - I found a box of brass from the times I wanted to get into reloading lol. 1) A bag of mixed 223/5.56, NOT cleaned, not de-primed, just as picked - ~4lbs, probably around 280-300 casings 2) A bag of mixed handgun caliber shells, mostly 9mm / .40, possibly with some .45 and .380 in between - ~4.8lbs, probably around 450-500 casings 3) A few .243 and .308 (less than 10 each) I don't need it, so basically whoever wants to pay ~$8 postage gets it (I doubt you would want to drive to Wilkes-Barre PA) Thanks!

I might make it to Clinton tomorrow with my kid, but that's like ~50% chance... See you there if I do!

Will be there with a wife and kid - will try to come at 9am, but it's now ~2hr drive for me, so might be a little late

+1 to T Bill. Check all the fuses, relays and condition of wiring before making any serious commitments and/or investments. Not once and not twice I made mistakes of replacing something (even simple things like central lock activators) only to realize it was a rusted wire / bad fuse I didn't even know about. And my most recent example - I got my car from an auction for very cheap, partially because the guy at the yard told all customers it had some issues with airbags (airbag light was always on). And yes, again, it was just a bad fuse, LOL :-)

I can't believe this topic has grown to ~30 answers. PDs make mistakes in P2Ps. I had several P2Ps with various mistakes (not in dates though, but in some numbers, in employer name etc.). They just cross incorrect things out with pen, write a correct thing above and sign there. Hell they extend permits in our PD just by writing a new date and signing in presence of applicant (without filing it to any database or so). Just go to the PD and ask them to correct this obvious mistake if you want to use this permit now.

Hm. I wonder how much money has been ... emmm... "lost" in such a program (if it is not a joke), if the cheapest phone I got so far was around $7 or so (old Samsung) and the cheapest plan known to me is $3/month plan from TMo... I mean, if you can't spend $7 upfront on the handset and $3/month for a "lifeline"... no program will likely help you *** But one thing is often neglected and I keep repeating this again and again - by international (=European for me) standards cost of mobile & residential phone/internet service in the US (and especially cost/quality ratio) is simply outrageous, but everyone seems to be perfectly fine with that :-) (I heard about people paying more than $200 a month for 3 cellphones, LOL)...

I'm sure at some point we discussed this particular type of ammo here (ZVS 124gr), but I can't find that thread. My bottom line - I was not really impressed by it, but I can't really explain why. It just didn't work for me (no, it didn't have any FTE/FTFs, but I had a strange feeling I don't shoot it as accurate as some other brands), but I generally prefer 115gr. BTW, again it's strict IMO, but I find Remington UMC the second dirtiest 9mm ammo widely available - I was dumb enough to buy almost 1000 rds of it from Walmart a year ago, and I still have a lot left as I just can't shoot it. Maybe it's just me, but a month ago I heard the very same thing from another guy at RTSP USPSA match, so I guess my initial impression was somewhat true. On a practical note, I personally strongly prefer: 1) Winchester White box 115gr. Normally at Walmart for ~$26 per 100 rds. Very clean, I like it 2) Freedom Munitions remanufactured 115 gr ammo - I think it totals to around $10+change per 50 if you order 500 or more - they used to have free s/h campaigns quite often before. I personally think it's absolutely not worse than any factory new ammo available.

Yesterday evening I tried Union, Woodbridge and South Plainfield stores and they were all OOS of $50 boxes. I gave up at that point, f it. South Plainfield associate told me they only received around 15 boxes before this sale and they went in less than 3 hours. BTW, as per yesterday Wayne didn't have proper papers yet, I called them and was again told "maybe end of this week". Those guys are just pathetic, it's, I think, almost 5 months since it opened...

Maybe I'm missing something, but do you plan to rely on open (=free) wi-fi networks to place calls? If that's the case, I would just buy $3/month plan from T-Mo Prepaid (it includes 30 minutes of talk per month for these $3), put the SIM-card in an Android smartphone and install Hangouts Dialer app couple with Google Voice number. With this setup you'll be able to make free calls when you are on someone's wi-fi (or at home with your wi-fi network) using Hangouts app and still have a chance to use a cellphone for calling/texting in areas where there is no wi-fi coverage...

Do you need a generic OBD-II tool (i.e. do you have OBD diagnostics port on your car) or do you need a specialized tool that can read airbag / more advanced brand-specific codes? If the former, I would suggest you to just order a simple ELM327 Bluetooth OBDII dongle and install Torque app from Google Play to any of your Android devices - you'll be able to see some codes and erase them from memory (e.g. if you need to "shut off" check engine light before showing a car to a prospective buyer, LOL). Mind that this tool will definitely NOT see any advanced brand-specific codes / airbag codes, but at the same time it will give you a plenty information about the vehicle (its dashboard features are fantastic!) I have such dongles in both of my cars. Actually I bought one branded BAFX for $20+ and one cheap no-name one for $5 or so shipped from China. Despite warnings of BAFX on their product page, those 2 dongles work in exactly the same manner (but maybe I was just lucky).

T Bill, thanks, I already got the point with tires - I went there last week for an interview and it was completely dry in the morning, so it took me around 1h 40m to get there. Snow/rain started quickly in the afternoon and it took me almost 5 hrs to get back to Newark + a couple of episodes when I might have well ended up wheels up in a ditch... RWD is definitely NOT for winters there, LOL

Thanks to everyone! Well, I guess very little can surprise a person who grew up on outskirts of Moscow, Russia and then moved to a place a couple of miles from Newark, NJ :-) But I'll be keeping an eye on where to settle. And as a kind of continuation of the previous question - if I expanded the area radius to, let's say, 20-30 miles from Scranton itself (to make it still reasonably commutable), what are the areas I might look at (that are not right next to Scranton, but maybe a little further...). Maybe I'm missing some hidden gem there? BTW, I liked the township of Moscow, PA there (it's around 7 miles from Scranton, I think). Would be quite funny to settle there and answer a question of where I am from...

It seems that something I've been dreaming of for a long time is becoming reality, at least partially, LOL... There might soon be a 6-months temp position (with some potential to extend / convert to perm later on) for me in Scranton PA area, and I am pretty much set on pulling the trigger and jumping on it. It is still only 2hrs from both New York City and Philadelphia, so not that big of a move (and I like it very much). I checked the area out when I went for an interview there and I totally loved it (well, at least visually). My job will likely be in Moosic PA or a little closer to Wilkes-Barre. I really know nothing about the area except that there are mountains around, LOL, and apartment rent prices are easily 2x less than in Newark NJ area for similar properties. That said, some questions to you, folks - abstract and practical: 1) Any insights about Scranton area are more than appreciated - I haven't even started looking for an apartment there (I still have some time before I start), so hints on what areas to avoid / prefer are very welcome. I scrolled through NEPA section on city-data.com forums already and have some understanding that it is better to avoid Scranton city center itself, but will very much appreciate other insights. (edited for added clarity: I am in my late 20s, will be renting there, likely 2-3br apt or a part of the house; school is also a concern as my son will go to school this fall...) 2) (stupid question) NJ Registration is due on my car in the end of this month, so I really have the following options: - Extend it for 1 more year (I still have NJ inspection until 03/16) now, keep NJ plates, change the DL to PA one, potentially get some tickets for driving improperly registered car in PA, get rid of the car completely in 2016 (or reregister it in PA then) - Get temp PA plates in the end of March, surrender NJ plates, get perm PA plates when I establish residence there, get PA inspection. Probably the cheapest way, but lots of running around - Extend it for 1 more year in NJ, as soon as I establish residence in PA (in 1 month), change plates to PA perm ones and get PA inspection. The easiest way, probably, but will lose annual NJ reg fee. I am frankly favoring option #1 (no hassle at all unless pulled over), as for many years I haven't been pulled over even once, so IMO there is a relatively slim chance to get busted with NJ plates and non-matching PA DL. Do you think it's a stupid way of doing things? (not a legal standpoint, just practical)...? Any other thoughts why I should or should not do this? (I was once walking in an apartment complex parking in Charlotte NC and I swear more than half of residents' cars there had non-NC plates (NY/VA/NJ/PA/SC/FL and counting...), so I guess I'm not the only person in the country doing this...) Thanks! (Too early to congratulate me yet, you will when I finally move, LOL :-) )

The only thing left unclear from the post is if they were actually carrying guns on them...