DeerSlayer

Nevermind. It will only work with a branch and tee system. That's the downfall of the home run system. Recirculation isn't possible. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Works great when there's a freezing problem. Both lines have moving water at all times. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

The old school way creates an S-Trap. That's illegal to do now. That type of trap looses it's prime. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Again. I wouldn't make it a permanent thing. For now it's helping. But address it properly asap. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

We can oversize a kitchen drain to 2" and flat vent an island sink if we don't exceed 8' from the vent on the sink arm. That's the only other way it can be done. It's 1/4" per foot on 2" or smaller. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

It does when it malfunctions. Happens a lot. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Supplies can't ever go in an exterior wall. That's when we can come through the floor. I don't come from the ghetto. I don't use mechanical vents even if they're now allowed since the last code change. They're garbage and I refuse to install one. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

We island sink vent with a loop vent. An inspector will allow it for an island sink. Not a sink against a wall where we can vent normally. That's the only acceptable place in the code to use a loop vent. We can't just island sink vent everything because the guy setting the cabinet can't use a tape measure lol. I also never glue in the stub out into the cabinet. So the carpenters can pull the stub, then set the cabinet. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Great temporary solution. Not a permanent one. That heat trace tape burns down a lot of houses. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

You realize the drain is coming out of the wall so it's vented properly. You can't just shove a drain pipe through the floor into a cabinet, it's not vented that way. Drains should never freeze anyway. Unless they're in need of being replaced due to build up inside the pipe which can't be cleaned out after a certain point. Especially when we're talking about metal pipe. Supplies through the floor are frowned upon, because they're unsanitary. Only when we can't go anywhere else is it allowed. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Dude, let the faucet drip/trickle. It won't freeze if it's moving. Also I know how to fix that even in an unheated space. Without moving pipes or adding heat. Install this. Fixed! Plus you will save water, and never have to wait for hot to come up to the faucet. https://www.afsupply.com/grundfos-595916.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA-KzSBRAnEiwAkmQ1521-WJQm3rbZUFR1Wg7b7AMZaGUoTcWuByuawyY9pjOAmm6A2L5DmRoCm-gQAvD_BwE Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Some plans call for a bathroom above an unheated garage. Personally I refuse to pipe it that way, unless the customer or builder signs a release that removes any liability from me when it freezes. Same with running baseboard heat into a soffit area, on an overhang or cantilever. I won't do it until I can't be held liable. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Try getting as much water out as possible. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Remove the trap. And stick a shop vac hose over the drain. Let it blow warm air down the drain for about an hour. That's how I thaw frozen drains in people's houses. It works. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

It's in the code. We must protect pipes from freezing. I personally refuse to run plumbing through any unheated space, including through a garage ceiling. Unless the customer agrees to let me heat the garage. It's that simple. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

As soon as the temp drops below 20° I start getting frozen pipe calls. New houses, old, not so new, not so old. It happens everywhere. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

It's not easier to defrost. I can't use a thaw machine on it, if it's plastic. It's harder to thaw. But less chance of a split. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I press everything. Can't remember last time I used my torch, except to Braze in AC linesets. Expensive doesn't bother me, the customer is paying for it. I just want to use good stuff I don't have to worry about call backs on. Pex on potable water with plastic fittings is fine. I just wouldn't use brass on it. I've seen so many fittings just snapped in half from acidic water. Usually it's the cheap Quest crap with the cinch rings. I haven't had any issues with Viega. But you're correct i is super expensive in comparison, to the cheap shit everyone else sells. I don't hate Wirsbo itself, I just hate working with it. Those stupid expanding rings are a pain in the balls when it's cold out. I have the expander tool, but I never use the stuff. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Slant Fin gives the heat loss calculation program away for free. Enter all the info, and is tells you exactly how much baseboard you need for the room. It even calculates for tight new construction or old drafty houses. Simple, easy, and works. I have the supply house design my radiant systems as well. I use pex or Onyx for radiant. I refuse to use flexible gas pipe (csst). I use black iron only either threaded, or Megapress. I'm fine with either. I use only German made Viega pex systems. And German made Viega pro press copper fittings. Viega Megapress press for black iron as well. I refuse to use junk. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

There's a place in New Haven CT that buys old ornamental rads, and they refurbish them. Way easier than doing it yourself only to get it all done and find out you don't actually know how to install a push nipple properly. I've done large boiler sections many times. That's probably easier then messing with a tiny radiator.. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Why would you want to take one apart? Or put one together? You can buy them in one piece with as many sections as you want. Besides to assemble a radiator you just use threaded rod and tighten the nuts. Pulls all the sections together. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Bro, screw the True steams, constant call backs. Even using RO water in them. I switched to the AprilAir so much better for steam humidifiers. Try them you won't be sorry. Negative, I have however done plenty of chilled water systems in commercial. And a few geothermal cool water AC systems though. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

We can do staple up from below the floors and save what you currently have. There are methods to my madness... I've never left a job with a frowning customer.. of course the ceilings would all have to be ripped down to do it. And insulated with foil back insulation facing upwards towards the tubing. We leave a small air pocket between the foil and the pipe in each bay. And it will heat your entire house with 105° water instead of 180° water. Significant energy savings, no more air moving around the house making everything dusty, no more furniture placement issues, completely silent, and significantly increases the value of the home. Also most importantly perfectly even heat in every room, regardless of where you're standing. Every object in the room touching the floor becomes a radiator, including people. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Let's gut your entire house, and install radiant. You'll never complain about uneven heat again... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Lol @ pipe noodles... "pipe noodles" = Armorflex. Don't cut fins off your baseboard elements, simply close the damper on the cover, that's why they're on there. Block the airflow and they stop putting out heat. That's how they work. They move the air through the fins by convection. And yes I specialize in hydronics. I'm currently thawing a 3 zone house in Lake Hopatcong, that's completely frozen top to bottom with the thaw machine... FML... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Copied from Facebook. "Everyone ! Everyone ! Spread The WORD.. Nick Purpura's case, or shall I say his filing for his case to be Re-Heard for cert, was granted....and now is DISTRIBUTED for Conference for January 5th 2018.....this doesn't mean it was granted Cert. it just means they will ( look at his case "again") to see if they should great Cert. This ""COULD"" be big news...Stay turned.... If possible we need to support Purpura, Not sure how, but if anyone has Ideas, lets hear them. letters to the SCOTUS asking them grant Cert? IDK but he needs HELP...maybe somehow we can get the 23 A.G. from the state like want HR38 to pass to file a amicus brief...( Jay Factor ) Case Numbers: (16-3173) Docket #17-280" Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk