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Eric.

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About Eric.

  • Rank
    NJGF Regular

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location:
    Somerset County
  • Interests
    Shoot: Pool, guns, zombies
  • Home Range
    Range 14

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  1. Vlad, As others have mentioned, it's the exact same compensation if you are shooting up hill or down. 30 degrees up or down (for ex) is the same compensation. It is always shorter (for compensation purposes). Like someone mentioned, it's a cosine calc. In a nutshell, the angle will cause you to reduce the actual calculated drop distance by a certain percentage. Since no one likes to do math, I suggest you buy a Mil Dot Master (in addition to your rangefinder). It's what we used before technology took over. In addition to doing drop compensation calcs, the MDM can give you the angle and cosign calc. Basically, you hang a piece of string or fishing line w/bb weight off it, then sight down the top edge of the MDM, to the target. There is a scale on the side of the MDM where the string rests against, giving you the actual angle. Once you know the angle, then you use the MDM (front side) factoring in the angle, to get the proper mil drop. It's really not as complicated as it sounds, is dead nuts accurate and can be done very quickly with little practice.
  2. Im gonna follow this. Just a thought- maybe you might want to practice on some cheaper barrel blanks? Not that i know anything about machining, just sayin'
  3. It's beautiful, Shane. That thing has "freedom" written all over it!
  4. Yeah, for shooting something larger like steel silhouettes, I can agree with that. If you want to shoot 1 moa (or better) at longer range, you're gonna need the extra magnification. There are other advantages like reading wind near the target or mirage better or easier ranging using the reticle.
  5. Just a thought, if you decide to shoot past 500-800 yds, you might need more scope than a 16x max magnification? 6.5c should get you to 1200-1400 yds. Great looking build. Im sure its a tack driver...
  6. I thought about that too but with the shorter barrel, its gonna lose a lil distance, as well. Golf, i would love to hear more feedback after you've put some hours in. Honestly, ive been thinking about a big frame ar in 6.5c for a while. Lately, the only calibers i shoot are 223 and 6.5c, so i never had the desire to build an ar10 but this post just kicked some sparks up, for me.
  7. I know im late on commenting... The Ruger rpr is, imo, the best value for an entry precision rifle. How good? If you decide to compete with it, its plenty good enough up to an "intermediate" level. The biggest downside is the aftermarket and customizing options. To use a car analogy, the Ruger is like an AMC engine where a 700 pattern action is the small block Chevy.
  8. Oh, my apologies to the OP for being part of taking your thread off topic.
  9. I appreciate your experience. Thing is, as a municipal cop it doesn't necessarily make your opinion the final word. Why do some of your posts come across that way? Unless you are wearing a baby Bjorn with full infant as part of your kit, the isosceles prone position is very viable in full kit. Current active duty military do use it and are taught to use that as part of their training. This is fact. Additionally, if your "tier one military guys" are telling you otherwise, then I would be leary.
  10. This is 100% incorrect. The military has long adopted the flat, isosceles prone position.
  11. Yep, those events, as well as the service rifle guys still use the older method. The PRS guys(for example) have used the newer method, for years.
  12. Just for clarification, when you hit your respiratory pause, you should still have around "1/8 breath" left. You shouldnt force out every last breath. I dont dispute the old technique. It works. Then again, thimgs evolve too. Kinda like how the old prone position incorporated one leg bent with the knee under your hip. That evolved into the flat isosceles leg position. I suppose one can just run with whichever they feel is best. Cheers.
  13. With all due respect, this is not the best method. According to the ppl smarter than me, you should shoot at your respiratory pause i.e. after you naturally exhale. The idea is that you want to release as much tension as possible. Holding a "half breath" in creates tension. As you get deeper into it, the respiratory pause position also gives the most consistent body/chest position i.e. the lungs are not expanded inconsistently. The last bit is prolly not something you need to worry about at this time.
  14. Was this match ever rescheduled? This weekend would be a good one for me...
  15. Hey Iggy, if i wasnt gonna be out of town, i would be in. Then again, i havent been shootimg much, lately, so probably wouldnt be able to hit the side of a barn, lol.
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