Eric.

Vlad, As others have mentioned, it's the exact same compensation if you are shooting up hill or down. 30 degrees up or down (for ex) is the same compensation. It is always shorter (for compensation purposes). Like someone mentioned, it's a cosine calc. In a nutshell, the angle will cause you to reduce the actual calculated drop distance by a certain percentage. Since no one likes to do math, I suggest you buy a Mil Dot Master (in addition to your rangefinder). It's what we used before technology took over. In addition to doing drop compensation calcs, the MDM can give you the angle and cosign calc. Basically, you hang a piece of string or fishing line w/bb weight off it, then sight down the top edge of the MDM, to the target. There is a scale on the side of the MDM where the string rests against, giving you the actual angle. Once you know the angle, then you use the MDM (front side) factoring in the angle, to get the proper mil drop. It's really not as complicated as it sounds, is dead nuts accurate and can be done very quickly with little practice.

Im gonna follow this. Just a thought- maybe you might want to practice on some cheaper barrel blanks? Not that i know anything about machining, just sayin'

It's beautiful, Shane. That thing has "freedom" written all over it!

Yeah, for shooting something larger like steel silhouettes, I can agree with that. If you want to shoot 1 moa (or better) at longer range, you're gonna need the extra magnification. There are other advantages like reading wind near the target or mirage better or easier ranging using the reticle.

Just a thought, if you decide to shoot past 500-800 yds, you might need more scope than a 16x max magnification? 6.5c should get you to 1200-1400 yds. Great looking build. Im sure its a tack driver...

I thought about that too but with the shorter barrel, its gonna lose a lil distance, as well. Golf, i would love to hear more feedback after you've put some hours in. Honestly, ive been thinking about a big frame ar in 6.5c for a while. Lately, the only calibers i shoot are 223 and 6.5c, so i never had the desire to build an ar10 but this post just kicked some sparks up, for me.

I know im late on commenting... The Ruger rpr is, imo, the best value for an entry precision rifle. How good? If you decide to compete with it, its plenty good enough up to an "intermediate" level. The biggest downside is the aftermarket and customizing options. To use a car analogy, the Ruger is like an AMC engine where a 700 pattern action is the small block Chevy.

Oh, my apologies to the OP for being part of taking your thread off topic.

I appreciate your experience. Thing is, as a municipal cop it doesn't necessarily make your opinion the final word. Why do some of your posts come across that way? Unless you are wearing a baby Bjorn with full infant as part of your kit, the isosceles prone position is very viable in full kit. Current active duty military do use it and are taught to use that as part of their training. This is fact. Additionally, if your "tier one military guys" are telling you otherwise, then I would be leary.

This is 100% incorrect. The military has long adopted the flat, isosceles prone position.

Yep, those events, as well as the service rifle guys still use the older method. The PRS guys(for example) have used the newer method, for years.

Just for clarification, when you hit your respiratory pause, you should still have around "1/8 breath" left. You shouldnt force out every last breath. I dont dispute the old technique. It works. Then again, thimgs evolve too. Kinda like how the old prone position incorporated one leg bent with the knee under your hip. That evolved into the flat isosceles leg position. I suppose one can just run with whichever they feel is best. Cheers.

With all due respect, this is not the best method. According to the ppl smarter than me, you should shoot at your respiratory pause i.e. after you naturally exhale. The idea is that you want to release as much tension as possible. Holding a "half breath" in creates tension. As you get deeper into it, the respiratory pause position also gives the most consistent body/chest position i.e. the lungs are not expanded inconsistently. The last bit is prolly not something you need to worry about at this time.

Was this match ever rescheduled? This weekend would be a good one for me...

Hey Iggy, if i wasnt gonna be out of town, i would be in. Then again, i havent been shootimg much, lately, so probably wouldnt be able to hit the side of a barn, lol.

Even more significant, that 50 cal round went transonic around half way there AND had the velocity and energy left of a 9mm handgun round, at impact. For that matter, the round might have been wobbling like a knuckle ball by impact.

No. I have the Gen I Razor 5-20x. The Gen II is a better scope but im not sure it's "gooder" enough for me to sell mine and upgrade. Ive been on the fence about selling my Gen I but just havent pulled the trigger yet. Oh, EBR2b. Its more or less the same as the 2c. One feature that is very nice is that the center where the crosshairs meet is open a tiny bit. This way if youre at the highest magnification you can see through the hole where the crosshairs meet.

SC, Sorry, I just saw this post... While I'm definitely not the final word on this, I'll throw in my two pennies on scopes used in a tactical/precision rifle role. I feel if you are shooting PRS style precision rifle, with similar situations and distances, then you want a scope with magnification on the low end, around 4x-6x and on the high end of magnification of 20x-25x\ maybe 30x, tops. I think others covered over magnification issues, already i.e. mirage, narrow field of view, reticle obscuring of target, etc. Thing is, magnification only makes you more accurate, to a point. If you are shooting long distance or ELR, too much mag may hurt your focus due to heart rate, breathing movement, etc. Benchrest guys basically use sleds to hold their rifles, so can get away with higher magnification levels. I have experience with NF, Vortex, S&B and US Optics glass. The two *I* prefer are NF and Vortex. Actually, Vortex is my current fav. S&B is hard to beat on all levels except for the price. I just feel the better value w/performance is NF or Vortex. I had a US Optics that would not hold a zero. Sent it back, had the turrets rebuilt, still had zero and tracking issues, FWIW. I sold it after the 3rd factory rebuild. On that note, buying used glass can be a good deal with a company, like, Vortex. They offer an UNCONDITIONAL lifetime warranty, regardless of owner. I love this company and I run a Vortex Razor. Yes, I'm biased. My last thought, which echos what the smart ppl have told me is to buy top quality glass. Do not skimp here. I hope this helps some?

Cleaning moving parts? Often. Cleaning the bore? As little as possible. On, say, an AR, I'll spray Brak Kleen and re-oil the trigger/sear parts and the bolt/bcg parts often and try to keep any accumulationof crud from building. I might do it after every other range trip, if I feel like it. As far as the barrel? Maybe once every 500 rounds I'll to a full clean and run patches down it. Other than that, I spray some carb cleaner and blow compressed air down the bore. I didn't think it needs to be said, but, everyone realizes that cleaning the bore is not a totally benign thing, right?

Just my thoughts- If you're new to precision rifle, I would buy a Ruger PR. Hands down, that is the best bang for your buck. A lot of value there. That gun will outshoot your abilities for quite soem time with a minimal amount of tweeking. Also, there is almost nothing that gives you that much, for $1000 give or take. I would then spend a lil more on the best glass you can afford. A couple of my buddies have RPR's. In short, they are a factory "junior custom" level rifle, if that makes sense. A custom will cost you a decent penny. More than $1000 for sure. IMO, if you are going custom, then you might as well get all the good shit (and not cut corners). On a side note, I had a custom 700 pattern, short action, Defiance Deviant action 6.5C built bny Mike @Tier One Defense. In short, GREAT work, fair prices and Mike is great to work with. I do nto hesitate to recommend Mike@T1D. If you want to pay for a custom, you can get some badass results. The pic is a 3 shot sight in at 100yds. I wasn't quite accurate but i was very precise. probably about 1/4 of 1 MOA. Of course, not all of the credit is the gun, but it's a good part of it.

Buy an SSA, get the other stuff all for $240 from Primary Arms. http://www.primaryarms.com/gat-flag-601?utm_source=bronto&utm_medium=email&utm_content=BANNER_1&utm_campaign=17_03_Ad11_FREE_Bundle&_bta_tid=18208763485476422957898217641799887565182720198266782884942887104180652169382710562963274869573189096980

Since you want an AR and also want to shoot precision, have you thought about buying/building an SPR, similar to a MK12? Basically, a precision AR. I'll come back with more info, I'm short on time, right now. *Update- sorry for the delay. For more info on a MK12 SPR, feel ree to browse these links: http://www.sadefensejournal.com/wp/?p=3386 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mk_12_Special_Purpose_Rifle (For the record, you don't need to copy the military version, exactly, to have a rifle that performs similar) Just to reiterate, since you want an AR and also want to do some precision shooting, I think an SPR might be your best choice. Also, since it's an AR, you can always buy/make another upper to use for true HD/CQB work. As you know, the AR upper can be pooped off and a new receiver snapped on in minutes, with no hand tools.

Im out of the group. I checked Powder Valley this morning and the h4350 I want is now sold out. That's stuff moves fast and I should have probably ordered last week when it was in stock. Oh well

I need H4350. If PV has it in stk, I'm in. *edit- they have 1lb cans, so I'll buy the limit and get some primers too.

Its only money...lol