medved11

Check the height on Nikon cantilever mount as well before you buy. For a few buck more, you would probably be better off getting a set of Vortex Precision Matched rings or something similar. The reason that I say this is that I borrowed a friends Vortex HST (50 mm) that's mounted on a American Defense mount to use on my Rem 700 while I shop for a permanent scope solution and there's probably about 0.5" between the bottom of the scope bell and the top of the barrel and it was a pain (and took a lot of fiddling with my cheek riser) to get a proper cheek weld. However, when I moved the scope over to my AR to try it out, the cheek weld was perfect without any adjustment

I thought about getting a rear monopod for my RPR as well but decided against it after getting a chance to compare it to just using a simple rear bag. The rear bag just seemed like a better option for a number of reasons, including: - Way less expensive than a quality monopod - Less weight added to the gun - Much easier to make minor adjustments in your sight picture just by squeezing or letting go a little on the bag - Almost infinite adjustability Based on some advice from Mike over at Tier 1, I bought a small and large wedge shape rear bag from Triad Tactical and they worked great together for setting up the gun on the bench. I used the the large wedge as a rest for the muzzle end and the small bag in the rear.

I don't do any hand loading right now, so I'm using factory ammo, primarily PMC 77 grain OTM. I've got a few boxes of Federal and Fiocchi match ammo (69 and 77 grain) that I haven't gotten the chance to compare yet. The PMC match ammo worked out well. The few groups that I was able to shoot with that one box at 100 and 200 yards (after using a few rounds to zero my scope at 50 yards) were consistently in .6" to 1". I was happy with those results given that I'm just getting into the precision stuff. My first group at 200 was around 1.75" but I blame myself for that and not the gun. I was tempted this weekend to take the gun out before I get the replacement shroud but re-reading the part of the advisory that said that the gun may fire when opening the bolt made me put it back in the safe (it's not worth the risk). Once I've got that fixed I'm going to try the various factory loads that I've got and figure out which one the gun likes best Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I picked up a .223 Ruger Precision a few weeks back but haven't really had a chance to shoot it much. I put a box of match ammo through on the first range trip. I was getting ready to take it to the range again a week or so ago and that safety bulletin came out about the bolt shroud issue came out. I filed with Ruger for the free replacement shroud, so it'll sit in the safe until I get the part and make the swap Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The serial number of my .223 RPR is in the affected range. I filed online for the replacement part, so I'm just waiting on the new shroud to arrive. In the meantime, I'm swapping out the factory stock with a Magpul PRS and the grip with a Larue A-PEG (the factory grip feels too narrow for me) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have to file the sight post on the Venom block in order to zero the gun, right?

I'll give the RD adapter a try. One other question - did you replace the gas block yourself or did you need a gunsmith to do it? I kind of want to change out the block on my WASR for cosmetic purposes. It seems like a pretty straight forward process to do in the garage as long as you have access to a press.

Thanks - does the RD adapter seem solidly built in your opinion? It's been awhile, but I recall that a few years there were a lot of people claiming that the screws in the RD model were prone to snapping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks - Did the RD adapter require any fitting to get it into the trunnion? The reason that I'm asking is that I used the Definitive Arms adapter on my Saiga and it took a decent amount of grinding on the belt sander to get it to slide in. I originally thought that my receiver was out of square but it was fine when I checked it. It was a breeze getting it in once the sanding was done but it would be great if the RD adapter will go in with a little less sanding and time cold bluing where the finish got taken off Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks great - which AR stock adapter did you use? I want to put a pinned CTR stock on my WASR and I'm trying to decide between the Definitive Arms and the Rifle Dynamics adapters. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The PS90 is NJ legal as far as I know since the flash hider is the one feature since it doesn't have a pistol grip. So, as long as you've got a mag that's permanently blocked to 15 rounds, you're good to go I've seen them for sale in a number of stores

Having owned both the C39V2 and the SAM7, my advice is to go with the SAM if you really want a milled AK pattern rifle. I've put about 700 rounds through my SAM and I've had zero issues. I put a Primary Arms 1-6x scope on it using an RS Regulate mount since the earlier post that I added to this thread and it gets consistent 2.5" groups at 200 yards with Wolf and Golden Tiger ammo (with the occasional flier that is probably my fault). It's become one of my favorite guns to take to the range Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sig's website still has them shown as separate and distinct product lines. I was under the impression that the 'C' in MPX-C was to delineate it as a Carbine as opposed to the pistol version. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah - I didn't see the price tag when I saw it in the store. I can't say that I'm that all that surprised though given the base price of the gun plus the NJ compliance work including the price of the brake Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope- it's an MPX... http://store.rtsponline.com/sigsauer-sig-sauer-mpx-9mm-16-inch-carbine-nj-comp.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I stopped by RTSP the other day on my lunch break and they actually have an NJ compliant version of the Sig MPX on the rack. I just took a quick look at it over the counter and it seems like they found a brake that replaces the flash hider and gets the barrel to 16". The store was busy so I didn't have a chance to look at it up close but it would be a nice option if you want 9mm carbine and AR type controls. I just looked on their website and it looks like they've got two in stock as of the moment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've used the foaming MPro-7 bore cleaner on my AK and I'm always amazed how much gunk comes out . I also just run 1-3 patches through the barrel to clear the foam out of the barrel and follow-up with a bore snake. I'm guessing that if the foam can clean up the Wolf AK ammo, then it should work fine on the somewhat cleaner Wolf AR stuff. https://www.amazon.com/M-Pro-Foaming-Cleaner-4-Ounce-Bottle/dp/B008MTJPH0 In my opinion, the MPro foaming cleaner does a better job than the Gunslick or Breakfree versions.

I may actually give this idea a try when I go an re-zero my prism scope after dropping it into the QD mount... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks - I appreciate the offer. I really should hop onto Amazon and order myself a set of screw extractors Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I definitely sprayed the screws with brake cleaner before I added the loctite and put them in but I can't recall if I cleaned out the threads in the mount which means that I probably didn't Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Good point - he's from the UK so he may still be harboring some repressed resentment from the whole 1776 thing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I always get those colors mixed up. I used purple based on the recommendation of someone that said that it's good for handling vibrations and should come off with hand tools. I'm starting to wonder if I may have kept the tip of the soldering iron on the second screw just a little too long and may have softened the head of the screw Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah - I ended up using purple because those screws came loose twice using blue. I did use a little heat (tip of a soldering iron) and the first screw came out fine. I'm not sure what happened with the second one but the head of screw just disintegrated as soon as I started turning. It's weird because I torqued the screws to the specs that I found online so I'm not sure what happened. I read a few reviews of PA scopes this morning and saw a few people complain about their screws stripping out when torquing them within specs. My guess is that the quality of the Chinese manufactured screws is subpar. There is a big difference in quality between those screws and the screws that came with the ADM mount that I just switched to. They look and feel much beefier. They came pre-treated with the yellow thread lock that Magpul uses so I didn't bother adding anything else. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're welcome. I think that PA makes great stuff for the money. Ironically, I was trying to swap out the mount that comes with the PA prism scope with an ADM ACOG mount and accidentally stripped one of the screws that holds the scope to the base (lesson learned about using purple loctite). In order to get that screw out, I had to put the scope upside down in a padded vise and pound a Torx head bit into the stripped screw so that I could get it out The scope took the (somewhat gentle but definitely firm) pounding well and seems to be functioning fine. Here's a pic of the screw after I got it loosened. I originally tried to get my dremel into the space to cut a slot in the screw for a screwdriver but it was just too tight. So, I opted for plan B which was pounding in the Torx bit. It worked great and I wasn't saving the factory base so I didn't care if it got chewed up a little during the process Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been using the Primary Arms prism scopes on a couple of my rifles for awhile now and I've got no real complaints. I've got a fixed 2.5x and 5x. I've found that the etched reticle on these scopes works better for my astigmatism. I just keep both of my eyes open for up-close (out to about 25 yards) past that I tend to go back to keeping one eye closed. Overall, I'm happy with the quality of the scopes and they meet my needs. I've dropped both a couple of times and I've never had any issues. I would definitely buy one of these again if I needed to