medved11

Just curious- did you try reaching out to Primary Arms about the ghosting that you saw in your red dot? They are usually very good about handling situations like this and send you an RMA to have you ship the red dot back to them so they can look at it and send a replacement to you quickly I had an small issue with one of their prism scopes awhile back and I received a replacement scope within a couple of days after contacting them, no questions asked (they just wanted the original one back. I've always had great service from Them Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No luck here either - just a bunch of dead ends. I tried a bunch of different searches on eBay and in a couple of marketplaces in other firearms forums and came up empty. Maybe you could try calling Surefire customer service to see if they can tell you who were their largest carriers of the flash hider so that you can narrow down the search a little.

This feature alone makes this a winner for me as a lefty... Ambidextrous bolt; no opposite hand bolt needed for conversion to opposite hand operation. No need to return the gun to IWI US for opposite hand conversion and head space checking.

I guess that I'm just one of those freaks that likes the original mag release design better. I'd be super happy if they used the X95 charging handle and the SAR mag and bolt release Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are the pictures of the Tavor 7 the actual final design? I kind of wish that they used the rearward mag release from the SAR rather than the forward mag release of the X95. I've always thought that the placement on the SAR was the better. Maybe I just have weird hands but I'm always kind of fumbling for the release on the X95, on the SAR, it's much easier to just give the release a good bump with the back of my thumb Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah, you're looking for the RFB (the 5.56 model) not the RDB (the .308 model). The one at Howell is the RDB, I honesty don't recall ever seeing an RFB around anywhere Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't want to hijack this thread but, if you really want an RFB, Howell Gun Works has (or at least had) a olive drab model available when I was there over Father's Day weekend. It's a sweet gun and I kind of regret not buying it, I just wish that Kel-Tec had not decided to use metric FAL mags for it.

I've been thinking about picking up an RFB to fill the 308 gap but it looks like I'm waiting for this now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Insert "Take my money now!" meme here Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This may be a dumb question but, If someone were to try and use dashcam footage to fight a ticket in court, wouldn't the prosecutor have the right to see all of the footage on the chip and not just small clip that the defendant wants to show? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's sort of what I figured (that there is no way for someone to demonstrate that their speedometer and dashcam are actually calibrated correctly and are in synch with each other). What made me think about this is that I've noticed that my dashcam will show that I'm still moving at 1-2 mph even after I come to a complete stop (most likely due to a lag in the GPS).

I could see how the dashcam footage could be used to demonstrate that you did make a full stop at a stop sign or before making a right on red, or some other simple moving violation, but would the speed displayed in the footage be accepted in court if you were contesting a speeding ticket? I'm just wondering since the dashcam that I'm using currently includes my speed in the time stamp display within the recorded footage. I'm assuming that it's calculated using GPS, so I'm not sure how accurate it is compared to radar, etc.

I've had a Springfield M1a Scout (and a SOCOM) for several years and they've been fine in terms of performance and reliability. I took the advice of a couple of guys and have keep spare bolt parts in my range bag for both (extractor, springs, etc) but have never had to use any of them. I loved the Scout right out of the box. I didn't like the poly stock on the SOCOM, so I ended up changing it out for a walnut stock which made a world of difference. If your just going to take the gun to the range for fun, then I think that the SAI models are fine. If you're going to compete with the gun then it may make more sense to look into James River or Fulton Armory Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks awesome. Being a lefty, seeing the LH conversion made this twice as awesome Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No problem. If you do the conversion, it's also worth upgrading the plastic port cover that is on the unused port next to your face with a metal one from Midwest Industries or Gearhead Works. Either one of these will seal off the port better than the factory one. I don't get much gas in my face when I shoot outside but I was getting a face full when shooting indoors. Upgrading the cover solved this issue completely Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I actually ordered the factory configured left hand model (B16L I think) which was ~$150 or so more than the standard RH configuration. According to IWI's webpage regarding LH conversion (https://www.iwi.us/lefthand) they'll charge you $124 + $15 (shipping) to do it at their facility in PA. I'm not sure where your located but they do list Hackettstown Guns & Ammo as a certified armorer that can do the conversion for you. You may also want to try an "improved" shell deflector that's supposed to chuck the spent .223 brass out at the 1 o'clock position. If you go to Bullpuparmory.com, they've got the Percival Armaments model for $12.99. You'd just replace the factory deflector with this one. I saw a YouTube review and it seems to work pretty well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm a lefty as well and getting my Tavor configured for left-side eject was worth every penny. I tried a friend's right-side eject model a few times before buying, and while I never took any brass to the face when I fired 5.56 rounds through it, I would get grazed in the chin when shooting .223.

I've looked at this shotgun a couple of times but I'm not so sure that I want to buy a Century made lever action: https://www.impactguns.com/century-pw87-lever-action-shotgun-12-ga-pw87-787450069923.aspx

The press definitely seems the right way for you to go if you're going to load 308/6.5. Any idea what grain bullet you plan on loading for the 45/70? I'm still looking at options and trying to make a choice Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah - I want to try reloading these as well. I bought a Lee Loader kit (link below) and I've been saving my brass. This kit seemed like a good way to dip my toe into reloading without dropping a lot of money on full blown dies and presses Lee Precision 45/70 Govt Loader https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00162RQU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vc3jzbZ9SKBAP Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice!!! I did the same thing after seeing that movie. I set mine up a little differently by adding an XS scout rail (with a ghost ring rear sight) and a Burris Fastfire. It's a fun gun to shoot and the recoil isn't all that bad either with lighter loads Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just a note - the top picture of the full rifle in your link is not an M70 - it's a milled Century C39V2. The "customer submitted" photos are the M70. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As long as its got the wood stock, you would just need to pin the brake and grind the bayo lug off Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Has anyone that's added a Manticore Arms curved buttpad to their Tavor (SAR) and had any trouble with the takedown pin getting hung up when you try to put it through the corresponding hole in the recoil/bolt assembly? I can get it to go in but it takes a little fussing with it. The same pin, with the stock recoil pad installed, goes right through without any resistance. Everything looks like it is lined up correctly on the outside in terms of the retaining bolt. It just seems like I've got to apply a lot more pressure on the recoil assembly and pad in order to get the pin to go through.