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Persona non grata

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Everything posted by Persona non grata

  1. I have some PSA Premium / Toolcraft NiB BCGs. They seem fine, and I haven’t had any issues with them. With that said, I’ve mostly settled on BCM and DD BCGs lately. Cleaning a phosphate BCG isn’t much more work than the NiB ones. Spray on some clp, let it sit a few minutes, hit it with a nylon brush, and then wipe it down. Doesn’t need to be spotless. My favorite BCG is the chrome DD model I picked up right before the craziness. Cleans up easily and has the rougher look of chrome compared to NiB.
  2. The X-Five Legion is a lot of gun for the money. LGS down here has/had them for $899. Can’t go wrong with the weight of a metal framed gun with the flex of polymer. I will eventually love mine, but I still need to break it in. It didn’t like my 115 gr Federal with the heavy spring, so I need to see if it likes the light spring it comes with. Some folks say it needs to be broken in with the light spring, then you can swap out for the heavier spring. I’ll find out later this week.
  3. Yup. I love my 5” P320 X5 Legion, but there’s almost no way I could conceal it. I love carrying my 3.1” P365, but shoot a competition with it? I have other guns I’d opt for first.
  4. Aliengear Cloak Tuck 3.5 is good for 4-5 o’clock concealment. I carry my P365 and Shield 2.0 with one and it works very well. I’m not a fan of modular holsters, so everything I have is made for a particular gun. For appendix, I don’t know, I’m not a huge fan of having a loaded gun pointed in that direction. With that said, I might try a T-Rex Sidecar at some point. For OWB, I’d recommend Safariland. it really comes down to what you’re doing with it, as others have said.
  5. A high quality upper is worth a lot more than a lower. If you want lowers as an investment, just buy a few stripped lowers and stash them. A full rifle costs what, $600-700 bare minimum? Aero stripped lowers can usually be had for around $100, while Anderson is under that. IMO, it probably makes sense to have two or three lowers, but stacking them deep makes no sense. Everyone and their dog has stocked up on lowers over the last year, and Congress currently doesn’t have the votes for anything too crazy. Even if they did pass something, so many lowers have been sold that I doubt prices would be similar to had you bought a full auto before 1986. Also, a lower is nothing but a chunk of metal until you build it out. A complete rifle is inherently more valuable, as it can go bang immediately.
  6. Have you had any luck? Brownells, Primary Arms, and Rainier Arms get BCM lowers, uppers and complete rifles in from time to time. Also as mentioned, BCM’s website has uppers in stock usually weekly. For mine, I wound up getting a complete lower from Brownells and a complete upper from BCM. MrGunsNGear usually posts when BCM rifles or lowers go in stock, so it could be worth following him on Telegram or Facebook if you aren’t already. I’m sure you already know, but you’ll need to have some NJ compliance work done. I skipped that step since SC is a semi free state.
  7. I have a VP9 and two P320s, and would recommend either platform. The VP9 has the crisper trigger, but the modularity of the P320 is a huge benefit and is finally being properly exploited. While both are great guns, I have to admit that I shoot my P320s better than my VP9. I’m pretty sure that’s because I shoot my Sigs more often, though. The Sigs point similarly to each other, so I don’t need to adjust much between them off the draw. I also carry a P365, so being similar to the P320 also helps a ton.
  8. There’s nothing wrong going straight to an optic for either pistol or rifle. It is 2021, after all. I still like having backup sights, but there’s a good chance that if you have a quality optic, you’ll likely never “need” the irons. I would highly recommend that if you even think that you would like a free float type of hand guard in the future, go free float right off the bat. It can be difficult or nearly impossible to change out to a free float hand guard on a NJ compliant AR. The easy option is to buy a new complete upper receiver, which isn’t exactly a “budget friendly” option most of the time. This isn’t usually an issue with the AR platform, but is an issue in NJ, since the muzzle device gets pinned and welded to the barrel. Your gas block typically won’t fit over a muzzle break, and you usually need to change that to swap between a traditional front sight base / delta ring and free float type of hand guard. You’re on the right track with a light. A free float rail allows you to get the light further out, which can be advantageous. If you want it for self defense, a quality white light is essential. If you want to do it on the cheap and still have a high quality light, I would recommend getting a Streamlight Polytac or Surefire G2X Tactical (high output only is preferable) and a 1” flashlight ring mount. You can typically do that setup for well under $100. It isn’t a “rifle light” per say, but it tends to work very well. The Streamlight Protac Rail Mount HL-X can also be had on sale for under $100, and may be the best value going in dedicated rifle lights.
  9. Sounds about right. It looks like your magnifier has an eye relief of 2.2”. You might want to adjust where you have your stock pinned so that your eye is in the right place so you can use the magnifier without adjusting your check weld. A collapsible stock makes this much easier, but NJ is awful. As for lights, the Streamlight HL-X rail mount you posted is an excellent light for the money, and might be the best value. I have one and it seems solid. Another great lower cost option is to get a $70ish Surefire G2X Tactical hand held light (not the Pro model which is low/high output, tactical has full output only) and a 1” flashlight mount. It isn’t a “gun light” per say, but it works very well. A good quality light is extremely important and can get switched out to another gun in the future. Even a higher end light isn’t that expensive in the grand scheme of things, when you consider how important it is and how long it will likely last.
  10. As others have mentioned, Magpul or BCM rail panels definitely help. A vertical grip helps since it gets your hand off the aluminum. Wearing a glove also goes a long way. I typically have rail panels where my hand likes to go and usually wear gloves as well. The biggest downside to free float rails is how they heat up. As for the case getting damaged, it’s a possibility. I like to let my rifles cool off for 10 minutes or so before they go in the case. Admittedly, that might be tough at busy ranges. When I used to shoot at Range 14 I would try to keep an eye on the time and wrap up my shooting a little early to let things cool down.
  11. If your current barrel has a pinned and welded muzzle brake, you’ll likely have to get that off first to even consider what you’re doing. That tends to be a real pain just by itself. I concur with the new complete upper idea.
  12. Ah, more brands for PSA’s private equity overlords to play with. Looked it up and seems that JJE holdings (owner of PSA) also bought AAC and a few other brands. Sure, it can be done. From what I’ve seen though, it’s nowhere near as easy to get a reliable AR10 for cheap as an AR15. I’ve built some 15s piece by piece that run great, but I plan on buying a factory 10 if and when I pull that trigger.
  13. Is DPMS currently making firearms? I think they got picked up by someone in the Remington bankruptcy (forget who), but I didn’t know if they were in production again.
  14. A buddy at work has a PSA AR10. Sample size of one, but lots of problems last he talked about it. A good AR10 without breaking the bank is kind of tough. There just aren't as many options, economies of scale, or competition like the AR15 has. If money wasn't an issue, I'd go Daniel Defense. On the lower end of the price spectrum, I'd be willing to give Aero Precision a try. Edit- @15636215 Sig could be another option too, but they’re probably around what an Aero would cost, which is likely a bit higher than your price range.
  15. I thought my Sig M400 would be it, but they've multiplied like rabbits. lol
  16. Larue’s Black Friday trigger sale is live. I’m looking forward to seeing how the MBT-2S I ordered compares to my SSAs. For the price, I guess I can’t go wrong since I’ll be replacing a mil spec that I can’t stand in a rifle I cobbled together from spare parts. https://www.larue.com/category/parts-accessories/lower-parts/triggers/ LARUE BLACK FRIDAY HAPPY HOLIDAY SALE 1 @ $80 ea. 3 @ $75 ea. 5 @ $70 ea. Discount taken when added to cart. Mix and match different triggers works as well.
  17. Agreed with @Krdshrk's post. Just make sure that a muzzle brake or comp is used instead of a flash hider.
  18. I actually quite like the P365's trigger. It's similar to my P320's trigger in many ways. I've shot and handled a few 365s, including the one I own. While it's not that crisp of a trigger, it is relatively smooth and I find it to be highly controllable. Oh, firing or dry firing the trigger a few hundred or thousand times will help to break it in.
  19. Same here. I either have one on me or in my car pretty much every time I go anywhere.
  20. Which pocket holster do you like for the 365? I usually carry 5 o'clock IWB, but I thought that pocket might be nice on occasion. Easier with a t-shirt.
  21. Nice looking build! What optic is going on it?
  22. I’m almost done with an SPR build. I think I just need some offset MBUS sights and a nicer bolt catch, and I’m gtg. I had a spare SSA in there when I shot it a few weeks ago, but now I have an SSA-E in there instead. It was a bunch of fun to ring steel and hit pop up targets at 300 yards. If only my range went further. Ah well.
  23. That's a pretty sweet lower! I might need to get my hands on that bolt catch if it can be used on Aero lowers. I've seen the light recently and have been buying Radian Talon safeties. Once you go short throw, you can't go back. I might have to give the Raptor charging handle a try for my current .300 BLK pistol build, although the MSRP isn't much different than the Geissele SCH and ACH I have in my other rifles.
  24. Sorry to revive a dead thread, but I live in an apartment and I came up with this. DeWalt folding workbench (got mine at Home Depot) 4" Irwin vise (probably from Lowes) Trigger clamps 20" x 7" x 3/4" oak board Bolted the vise to the center of the 3/4" thick board. The bolt holes on the vise happen to line up with an X pattern on the bench. Clamped the vise to the bench with the trigger clamps. I take the vise off of the bench when folding it for storage. Portable, folding work bench that easily fits in a closet when not in use. I've built a few ARs with this. Never had any issues torquing on or removing barrel nuts. Finding a good gunsmith here in SC was kind of a pain. Either they're not open when I'm free, or are part time because it's just a hobby and aren't available since their primary job comes first. I used one highly rated "smith" to swap the barrel on my AR and after I got home found that nothing was torqued to spec. After that, I vowed to do it myself from here on in. Sure, I spent hundreds on the bench, vise and tools, but now I can do all the work myself whenever I want and I know the work is done correctly.
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