TRM9999

I did notice how expensive the nylon buffers are.

I wondered about this and if polishing those areas could adversely affect it. The first time I pulled it apart I noticed how rough everything is in there. I also wondered if they ever made 'a better model'? Anyone know if the 10/22 Stainless is any more refined than the standard model? Thanks.

I tried the new pin and all went well. Couldn't say where it was quieter or not. Couple of bullet misleads but that could be perfectly normal. I'll watch the wear and likely try the synthetic buffer pin when I get around to ordering one. Thanks for the comments!

The bolt buffer pin on my Ruger 10/22, the large one, broke recently. I assume it happened at the range that day. I was trying some high velocity ammo ( stinger, segmented). Never thought this thick pin would have cracked in half midway. So in looking for a replacement on ebay I saw these (2 Recoil Shock Bolt Buffer Pin for Ruger 10/22 Viton + Stainless) and ordered them. They even state noise reducing. Basically a smaller thinner SS pin wrapped in a silicone cover (looks like a heavy gauge electrical wire. I installed it wondering if it would be loose but it was snug enough to stay in place. Now just waiting for a chance to try it out. I did get a warning about trying these in my SW Victory, but you know I had to try a few out. No adverse effects seen.

I just left my AR P-223 Nikon scope on the 22 as I use it more now than on the AR. Its been fun and so is shooting out to 100 yards with CCI LRHP 1260fps. I didn't adjust the scope just compensated when shooting a 6" steel. I got some stingers to try next. And since I can see some of the shots traveling I want to try it with subsonic to see them even better.

I was at the now closed WMA range on Piney hollow road, shooting at the far right of the range. I took a shot and saw someone walking out on the left side. I wouldn't shoot anymore, almost crapped my pants and left. They didn't care less. But you guys are right, say something. And the road/trail running along side the range seemed a little strange as well as I used to hike to blue hole past there until I realized they were shooting. I was truly sorry it closed. I used to joke that arrows would come over the trees from the archery range in back of this. Until I saw an arrow on the ground in the parking lot. I'm glad they are improving them.

I like both responses. Good points. Boy have I made my share of mistakes, esp when younger. I really am happy about promoting using bore flags, although still too many that don't. I wonder if officers ever come by. Are there even such people for WMAs? Going to try it one day ( was hoping today) during the week. They already told me don't bother on weekends.

How safe are the WMA gun ranges that allow 22 rifles? Specifically, I found the Make Peace range recently. Pretty nice as they go. 2 folks shooting but were just finishing up so I didn't get to see what goes on. They seemed to be very reasonable and safe. My concern is walking down range to set up targets, and do folks follow or even know of the right safety protocol. Don't touch....

The Invicta watch cases make a nice pistol case. I was using the lager 12watch case but just got this 3-watch case size and my Victory just fits. They are deep so you can put extras in the slots like ear plugs, bore guard, tools, cleaning stuff. I like that they have two locking holes for small locks. (sorry about the rotated pic)

Main issue solved. Crappy ammo for my particular gun. S&W victory. Ejector problem solved... I always start with a very clean gun so I know that wasn't the problem. I tossed the rest of the Winchester Super X 1300 fps 40grains. They were dirty and waxy right out of the box. Perhaps this speed ammo was older, or they just put a tad more power in it or even didn't size it right??, but it was bad functionally and the powder was poor. Hope other people didn't have that problem. So at the range today I tested with a clean gun and mags. 400 rounds. 25 yards with bench rest and free hand. 2 boxes CCI 26g, One box Federal 40gr LRN. One box of 100 Super X Winchester 1230 36gr php 1 Oh, before I tossed it, I loaded a mag with the Winchester 1300fps, and the mag would not seat tight until I pushed it in very firmly, nor would the first round load with out a push of the slide. Wow, like the 10 bullets were oversized or over waxed and dirty. I shot it twice and tossed the 20 of them out. 2 Then I tested the Super X Winchester 1230 36gr php. These looked cleaner, and the full mag seated much better. First jam as the bullet didn't go bore well. The shots were smokey but not as bad as the 1300fps Winchesters above. Power seemed ok, but couldn't get through most mags without jams. Made sure I was holding the gun tight. Shot up the 100, and not nearly as dirty as the above. Better, but just not good for my gun. I'll avoid even on sale for my gun. Now maybe they would be better in my 10/22 but I'll never know now. Oh and last time the 10th bullet would jam, here it was the first bullet. Mag seating issue. Go figure. 3 Now testing the 100 of Federal 40gr LRN. Much cleaner looking. Shiny brass. I first thought that my gun would not be happy with 40gr, but guess what. All went well, Slide racked and closed when I release the lock. Bullets loaded. Less smoke. Couple minor jams or misfeeds. Mags seated easily. Shot them up fast. Not bad, but if I ever buy again, it would be the 36gr. Been doing minor wipes of the bore front and bolt head and this was cleaner. 4: 2 boxes of CCI 36gr (200 rds). Clean and working well. Bullets feed much better, no pushing of the slider. Out of 200, only a minor misfeed or two. I shot from the bench stand, sitting and holding, to standing and holding. Firm grip and wiggly grip. All went well and I zoomed through the rounds. Adj the sights down 2 turns as my natural hold seems to have the tendency to lay higher, but I have to work on that. So, the ejector is fine after I reinstalled it. Could be I moved it or something while cleaning but I'm sure it blew off from the exploding round that may not have seated well. Who knows but after 400 rds its ok. I'll sell off for half price, my unopened 100 Super X and my 525 of Golden bullets and stick with the 100 boxws of CCI which I get from Cabelas for $8.99. It will be nice to stay sighted in for one specific bullet too.

Thxs. I'll keep an eye on it and test it again with CCI. Been working fine on 1500++ rounds until that box of ammo.

I was able to replace the ejector parts the correct way thanks to the videos of Kerensky7 on youtube. And just like him, I also ejected the parts across the room. Luckily found them.

Was out at the range this morning with my S&W Victory 22LR pistol, hoping to go through 300 rounds. Started off with CCI 36LR ammo and all was relatively fine. Only issue was the 10th round in the mag would jam, and in both mags too. Just shook them in better seemed to cut most of that out, from 100 shots. Then I took out the 100 box of Winchester Super X at 1300fps PRN. Good price, expected something like CCI. Surprise! Ha Ha. Immediately notice the dirty rounds. Like the wax all over them collected dirt. Loaded, shot, coughed. Holy Smokes. Litterally. Didn't expect that. Made the gun dirty pretty quickly and more jamming. I could feel the power of the rounds, but then not, then I did, but the smoke was consistent and so were more jams. Ah, I think my pistol likes to top out at 36grains I guess. The spent casings were really dirty. About at my 50th shot (to use them up), bamm! A harder round and a jam, smoke all over, even coming out from alongside the bottom of the mag. So I let it sit, then cycled everything out. The 22 shell had Split along the firing lip edge and exhaust gasses must have backed up into the bolt and mag area. I tilted the gun and the ejector and spring fell out. Luckily I saw them both on the bench. Wiped down and cleaned up the mag, gun and disassembled (and made sure the barrel was clear). Put the spring in and placed the ejector, but it fell right out again. I knew something else was missing, which I couldn't find, but someone else's eyes spotted the base for the spring in front of the bench. Was it the gun, was it the ammo, was it the split seam on the casing? I don't know, but I'm off to youtube to find out how to reinstall the ejector parts, and will most likely just replace them all with after market items if I can get all three parts. Just a story, and ammo I won't buy again. I have two other boxes of that stuff in 36 grain hollow point to use up and I'll let you know.

The Ammo was some cheaper Remington and a blue box of PPU. Both basic ammo and not the best. I've seen slight ammo differences when I try to find the sweet spot for my gun, but nothing this bad. If it were me I would have stayed and tested it more and really examined the barrel placement in the slide more, but my friend wanted to move on. He'll have to try new ammo as he is almost out so will recommend better ammo for the test. Was just wondering if the spring could be bad or the barrel doesn't seat evenly, etc. And if anyone has heard of such issues. But that again would mean a broken gun. I'll have to check his sites more closely too. Thanks.

Hi. Friend bought this gun (XD Mod 2 4" 9mm) just a few weeks ago. Semi newbie shooter as well. First couple of outings at the 10yd target and he is learning how to shoot it, breath, trigger pull, etc. We even tried at the 25 yards. He was learning but could get some rounds close. I could hit the black most of the time using normal alignment of the sights. So all is well and he is learning. So we go today and he is missing the entire 12in square target at the 15yds, so we move it up to the 10yds. I can see he is jerking a bit and tell him to keep trying but doesn't hit the paper. So I try it and what the heck, not even on the paper. I shoot down and nothing, then I go up and score. After several tries I realize its shooting 6 inches low. I basically had to aim at the top of the paper to get near the center. He tries it shooting high and now he is on the paper. What. I'm getting confused? So I take it apart, which is an interesting task of keeping the grip safety in and pulling the trigger to release the slide. The Spring was in place, barrel seemed to sit ok. Took them out and wiped off, wiped of the carbon from the lower and put it back together then let him fire several times. No luck. I tried again and had to shoot 6in higher to hit the center at 10 yards. He tried it high and at least hit the paper now. We stopped for now. Obviously something is not right. What in the would made the gun shoot so far off all of sudden. Was it us, or mechanical? I mean you can't move the sites up and down. We used different ammo brands but the same results. The barrel looked like it came up into proper alignment when the slide closed? I would have played more but he needed to go.

I did transfer my P-223 Nikon scope to my 10/22 to try it out and it made a world of visual difference. Lots of ammo getting it zero'd. The original mount was junk so I bought a new rail and used me P mounts and got it zero'd in one session at 50yds. Went again today and it was right on at 25 as well, at least for my skill set. Started out on the 4'in splatter targets, then the 3in, then the two inch, and only then it go for the hole replacement stickers to make it hard. It was supposed to be an experiment but not I don't want to give it up or buy a new one just yet. Just gave the old cheap scope away to a friend that just bought my henry. So now I have a naked M$P AR and about 400 rounds to play with for awhile.

I found out the rail they give you with the 10/22 isn't really a full sized picatinny rail. I can slide the scope mount over it but the tightening screw is too big for the slots on the rail. Will have to get something better so I used the cheap wedge mounts temporary as I'm just trying it out.

All these suggestions and hints are appreciated. I may try the 100 yards, but I'll base the scope decision on 50 yards. As you get older the eyes need better optics. Maybe I'll just take the P223 scope off the AR and try that for a bit to see how much I notice the difference.

I got the off the shelf 1" tube with no power adjustments. $40-50 type. Did fine for fooling around at 25 yards. Even on the 50 but the eye strain and eye relief is a pain. That 3x9 is about what I have on the AR and its good. thanks

Hi. Since its a basic priced 10/22 rifle I didn't want to spend too much on a scope for it, but after 10 minutes I regretted the cheap tube I bought. So later I got a slightly better but still cheap Bushnell and ready to toss it and the cheap mountings out the window. What is a good price range and scope selection for basic plinking/fun shooting up to 100 yards? I had gotten a Nikon P-223 for my AR and that was fine (and a special on the mounts made that deal). This level may be good.

An electic mix right now. I'm using up the thunderbolts too use them up and as long as the bolt face is clean they'll shoot. Then I'll send some CCI's through to clean up the barrel. lol As I going I'm using the cheapest stuff up first and will settle on CCI for consistency. We've fun shooting at the 25 yard now so its no big deal because they all better hit zerro. I also have some golden bullets/Fed/Winchester and they all seem fine as long as the rifle is clean. When I get out to the 50 and 100 I'll just use the cci.

Thanks all! I ordered one and the double as well. Really learning to love the 22's.

I've seen simply rubber connectors for 2 mags or a three mag connector (all 10 shot mags of course). Any legal problem? May be more trouble than its worth but seemed like a cool idea.

Went for it and got the Tandem Kross Trigger kit. Provides a flat trigger and a lighter pull. Do it yourself, with caution, if you dare. I shot it afterwards and it was a big change. New finger positions have to be re-learned. Plus I put the grip overlays on and learned new gripping techniques. Does it make me shoot better? After some very careful timed shots I did well. After a few quick ones, so so. Bench shooting easy. Stand up shooting needs some new learning too. So I have to relearn the gun and shooting it before I can say it makes me shoot better, which may indeed do that! I did like the flat trigger but definitely not the wobble! Black or Silver. I choose silver because the gun is, now I note the old trigger was black. You decide. A little worried about installing myself, but having the gun all open to see the inner workings and nice videos on YouTube I went for it. Never did anything like this before especially with a brand new gun. Learned a lot about how the guts worked and hope I didn't mess with things too much. ?? The kit references instructions on their site but these are the written PDF instructions with photos. Found a video on YouTube that really answered a lot of questions and made it doable for me and would have had trouble with just the written instructions and small photos. You Need both! They change the kit from what you may have seen. There's a new captive set screw that holds the trigger disconnect bar (I'm sure glad I got the newer kit). The steps including taking Most of the components apart to do this install which can be intimidating. The grips, mag drop spring, slide lock, safety, mag safety, hammer, etc., but it teaches you what and how that stuff works. It could also teach you that you maybe shouldn't have done this and let your gunsmith do it. Tricky things are hard to give enough info about without making instructions for a video too complex but there were important things that could have had more mention. When you remove the hammer, the connecting bar and pin can fall out and it will. Over and over again before you are done unless you remember this. Should know this ahead of time to avoid it because the bar is offset and you don't know which way to put it back together. I had to do it wrong first to do it right and I hope its right. The new tiny replacement trigger spring and pin can get lost real easy when installing it under tension (real easy) as its hard to get and keep it in place while holding the trigger in place to install its pin. The paper instructions mention using tape, but it doesn't show it. In my kit there is a set screw to hold the trigger bar in place inside the trigger. This was not in the video (and I didn't see the hole for it in the video) and the paper instructions look like it was updated with these instructions but without a needed photo so I figured it was an upgrade to the kit. But do you LockTite it? I don't know and will monitor it when cleaning. Its very small and can assume it must have been a needed update, so if you don't get this in your kit bring it back or call tandemkross. Getting the safety back on, engaging the sear, keeping the trigger bar in place, lowering the hammer (and bar) into place and then lining up to put in the pin took most of my time and sweat and all has to be held together to get the pin in. It was not at all ez. I worried about marring the sear and parts at the pin hole. And while doing this the pin falls out of the hammer bar. One of the things it promotes itself with is that the stock trigger has side to side play, hinting that the new one will not. Well guess what, it has at least the same wobble or more. The paper instructions only say, in case this is so, you can add or replace a shim, but no good info on that let alone another shim in the kit. They need to correct this to whatever solves the issue like give two different size shims or maybe don't mention trigger wobble cure. The video and paper instructions were a little unclear about how to get the mag release out from under the trigger bar. It doesn't come out easy and they say not to bend it but the way it comes out, means you have to put pressure on it. Didn't like that as it could bend and also scratch the frame and trigger bar. I left a scratch or two there. I think it would be better to take this out at a later step. Then you have to put it back in the same way later, which was a bit easier on you and the parts since you've gone through it. Maybe why they left theirs out.. Ok, you put all the parts back and put the slide back on and hope it works. I was never sure I had the sear set correctly but had to do all the rest of the install to find out. What ever you do, don't drop the hammer until all the parts and the trigger are installed. Now the trigger adjustment screws should be put in before installing the trigger and meant to be adjusted later. You have to play with the adjustments a bit. Too tight and it may not work (break, release, reset don't work) in the field. Resetting those tiny screws in the field is tricky and you can lose a part real fast. The top screw is easy to set as you don't need much turning with the too tiny Allen key. You have to leave some extra room in this adjustment. The trigger stop screw setting is easier, but troublesome to me, as the setting brings most of the tiny set screw out of the frame of the trigger. WTF. It needs to be longer. I wish I could screw it out further but it will just bend or fall out. Even when modestly set, not much of the set screw in the trigger frame and it wiggles. You can see it bend slightly as it touches the back of the trigger guard. Maybe they should just add a longer one into the kit so you have two. You don't want it sticking out in front, but if its screwed it so far it wobbles out the back, I question its function and life span. Just include another slightly longer one in the kit and I'd be happy. Now, they suggest lock tight blue. But the paradox is you don't want to put the locktight on the threads until you are sure where you need the setting to be. And I recommend you shoot the gun first to be sure it works with your settings! In the instructions, it says to use the lock tight, but not 'when' and doesn't show that part. Note the locktite sets in 10 minutes. You do the screw installs before you put the trigger in the frame because its easier, but later to use the lock tight? Not so easy at all to back these out in the confines of the trigger guard to install the locktight. I think I'm going to just use a needle to place careful drops on the set screw edges where it meets the trigger - after I'm happy with the adjustment and hope it holds and stops any 'walking.' PS. It has to be blue locktight because red will never let you adjust or remove it again. Now funny (as I understand this) but they show in the video the guy holding the locktight tube with a blue top, but he quickly covers the label with his thumb.. Because he is holding locktight glue in his hand and if you rewind, you'll see it. He picked up the wrong stuff from the shelve at the store. I almost did the same since I saw it in the video. But he must have accidentally bought the glue by mistake that happened to have blue on the container. Get the correct locktight blue "tube." Its $6.54 at home depot (don't pick up the cheaper glue by mistake if locktight is what you want). That's funny right there, I don't care who you are. These are notes and in no way am I doing more than stating my experience. I bought the do - it yourself kit and I did it. I believe I could but the old stuff back if I wished but I'm not planning that.