Longranger

Mrs. Peel (& everyone else), Check with the people here: https://coppercreekcartridgeco.com FYI - What you're asking for requires a licensed ammo manufacturer.

Ladies & Gentlemen, The first two treasures have landed. An Iver Johnson TP22 semi-auto pistol with a frame that’s broken in half and a Harrington and Richardson 5-shot, 38 S&W top-break revolver that needs to be re-nickel plated and have a flat spring made for the latch that locks the frame closed. Haven’t torn into the H&R yet to see if anything is amiss inside. A big thank you to the forum member that provided the goods for Firearm Forensic Files #1 and #2! A stainless Marlin 1895 45-70 Guide gun with an exploded barrel is due in this week. That will be Firearm Forensic File #3. Next up - I’m gonna try and figure out how to do decent video tutorials to document the complete teardown process for each firearm that comes in. I’ve noticed on YouTube and Rumble that the majority of teardown videos aren’t complete disassemblies and are more geared towards a field strip and clean. There seems to be a lack of tutorials for “How to disassemble (and reassemble) the bolt in my ……” and the typical owner’s manual doesn’t get into that much detail. Anybody want photos posted here as things progress?

Hi all, I'd like to get as many broken, bent, busted, burnt, rusted, blown up, basket cases, damaged and/or totally fubared guns & ammo as I can for investigative studies and to use in the production of gunsmith training videos and the development of specialty tools. Handguns, long guns, and NJ non-compliant guns are fine. Yes, I’m an FFL01. Yes, I’m looking for free stuff. Monmouth County preferred (for now) to arrange for in-person pickup or drop off to avoid shipping costs. Comments and questions welcome. Thanks in advance. Mods - this is also posted in the WTB forum. Please feel free to delete if inappropriate for the gunsmithing forum.

Hi all, I'd like to get as many broken, bent, busted, burnt, rusted, blown up, basket cases, damaged and/or totally fubared guns & ammo as I can for investigative studies and to use in the production of gunsmith training videos and the development of specialty tools. Handguns, long guns, and NJ non-compliant guns are fine. Yes, I’m an FFL01. Yes, I’m looking for free stuff. Monmouth County preferred (for now) to arrange for in-person pickup or drop off to avoid shipping costs. Comments and questions welcome. Thanks in advance.

Hornady 9th is showing 1.450” COL for the 125 XTP. 0.005” difference from your load data, which I would think is no big deal. Also showing 1.145” and 1.155” for trim and max case lengths, respectively. What are your sized case lengths? On the crimp issue - Heavier crimp usually goes along with higher initial pressure to get the bullet moving, but I haven’t seen anything that suggests the difference would be drastic. If you’re looking for slight differences in accuracy due to changing powders, then you need to keep all other variables constant - like primer, case volume, crimp, case length, and seating depth. Use enough crimp to keep the seating depth fixed if you’re loading and firing multiple rounds or go with no crimp and load/fire one round at a time to make sure recoil isn’t corrupting the seated depth on rounds 2, 3, 4…. The amount of crimp will change with variations in case length also. So, make sure all cases are the same length before crimping.

Forgot to mention. You’d need to remove the depriming rod from the sizing die before resizing the primed cases. Might be obvious, but I figured it’s safer to add that tidbit.

#1 - I wouldn’t use someone else’s reloads and that’s my recommendation for you as well. #2 - If you have reloading equipment, you can use a kinetic bullet puller hammer to remove the bullets and powder. Then you could resize the PRIMED cases, add powder, seat the bullet and crimp. Remember, cases are generally sized first and then primed. So, sizing a primed case is not a recommended practice. #3 - Are you sure all of your chambers are squeaky clean? Can you accurately measure the loaded ammo outside diameter?

revenger, When you say "custom metal work", what do you have in mind? Fancy schmancy engraving, bluing/refinishing, cylinder/barrel/frame work, or something else?

Looks like the lever from inside a hand primer.

I think you’re right about how the catch at the bottom of the chute is supposed to work. Here’s Lee’s image of the chute: https://leeprecision.com/PRIMER-TROUGH.html Any idea of the manufacturing date of your ACP? The chute design was apparently changed in Feb 2021.

That looks good. Does the problem seem any different with large primers vs. small primers? It looks like the small primers wind up getting staggered in the chute. Not sure if that makes any difference or not, just trying to isolate the circumstances that might be causing the problem.

kc17 - that insert, the round silver piece with the slot for the primers, looks way too low. I think the top of the insert should be flush with the top of the black plastic. Maybe you didn’t have it all the way up before locking it in place? Or, maybe it’s hanging up on something that’s preventing it from springing up all the way?

I think the ACP is a different chute. You can see the primers as they come down the chute. The primers should drop out of the chute and fill all the way to the center of the insert, so there’s always a primer above the punch. Kc17, how do you get too many primers to come out?

Kc17, Let me start by saying I don’t have one of these, but I do have a bunch of other presses with all types of auto-priming setups. My first question is what is that drip running down the front of the white plastic trough? Oil? Did this ACP ever work correctly or has it always been hit or miss? Gravity is the only force acting to get the primers moving out of the chute, so the least bit of drag (like dirt, powder, dust, oil or maybe even a defect in the plastic) inside the chute will screw things up. Does it work better with a full stack of primers doing the pushing?

The hardener in your original post is what caught my eye. Epoxy paint? HVLP airbrush?