Jump to content
zenviko

Need help with Wilson's Colt 1911 MK IV series 80

Recommended Posts

I have inherited a Wilson colt 1911 mk iv series 80 recently and after I had taken apart the pistol to clean I have noticed there were pieces of plastic that was broken off I believe where it used to sits behind the spring of the guide rod. After I had finished cleaning the pistol I am currently stuck at getting the bushing/guide rod down the barrel because the bushing is hollowed out which I have no problem pushing down with a flat tip screw driver but the guide rod would not go down enough for me to swing the piece to lock it in place. I was wondering if anyone could tell me if I need to replace the plastic piece that was broken off and also if someone could point me the right direction as to maybe replacing the full size guide rod to a shorter version? of guide rod (and where I could possibly order one?) maybe that will solve my problem. TIA

 

Edited: I have attached pictures 

78D80CA2-0E03-4E86-BD24-16999026A5AA.heic 26647C1F-C7ED-49C7-9947-4B5F90095029.heic

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hard to tell from the photo, but you may be seeing the remains of an old shok-buff (Shok Buff).   Wilson and others make them, they aren't always blue as the one in the link, and they are life limited.  You can replace them inexpensively, and they offer some protection against frame battering, or you can leave them out, as some folks think they add an unnecessary point of failure. 

You could get a replacement guide rod of standard length from Brownells, Midway, or a bunch of other suppliers.  The full length rods can be a pain in the neck, but you do see them on high-end guns like your Wilson because they slightly improve accuracy and reliability.  The standard length rods are also cheap, and are a drop-in replacement.  You could pick one up and see if you can tell the difference.

  • Informative 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
44 minutes ago, 10X said:

Hard to tell from the photo, but you may be seeing the remains of an old shok-buff (Shok Buff).   Wilson and others make them, they aren't always blue as the one in the link, and they are life limited.  You can replace them inexpensively, and they offer some protection against frame battering, or you can leave them out, as some folks think they add an unnecessary point of failure. 

You could get a replacement guide rod of standard length from Brownells, Midway, or a bunch of other suppliers.  The full length rods can be a pain in the neck, but you do see them on high-end guns like your Wilson because they slightly improve accuracy and reliability.  The standard length rods are also cheap, and are a drop-in replacement.  You could pick one up and see if you can tell the difference.

thanks for your help I believe you are 100% correct with the show-buff, shortly after the post I found a "Wilson spring kit" which it contain a couple of those plastic buff and when I attempt to slide onto the guide rod it immediately shattered... along with that the kit also contained a few springs from ranges from #8 to #18 1/2 are those interchangeable? And as far as the guide rod replacement goes I have found this on eBay https://www.ebay.com/c/8011390306?iid=254301840937 would that work? Thank you so much for your help. This pistol used to belongs to my uncle and I would love to get it to work again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, zenviko said:

thanks for your help I believe you are 100% correct with the show-buff, shortly after the post I found a "Wilson spring kit" which it contain a couple of those plastic buff and when I attempt to slide onto the guide rod it immediately shattered... along with that the kit also contained a few springs from ranges from #8 to #18 1/2 are those interchangeable? And as far as the guide rod replacement goes I have found this on eBay https://www.ebay.com/c/8011390306?iid=254301840937 would that work? Thank you so much for your help. This pistol used to belongs to my uncle and I would love to get it to work again.

That looks to be the right part, but I'm not familiar with that make, and you already have the springs.  I think the standard guide rod is less than $10 from Brownells, Midway, etc, so I'd favor one of those vendors, though I guess you'll also need to add the spring cap, but it should still come in under the ebay price.

The springs are interchangeable in size, but you pick the spring depending on the load you will be firing.   16 lbs is the 'standard' spring for a 5" 1911 like yours.   If you are going to fire a lot of heavy loads, military ball or hotter, you would go to a heavier spring to keep the frame from taking a beating.  If shooting light loads, go to a lighter spring.   I don't think you'll find commercial loads light enough for the 8# spring, but some target reloads would get you there.  Too heavy a spring with lighter loads won't hurt the gun, but you get to a point where the action won't fully cycle...time to go to a lighter spring if that happens.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is not easy to tell from the picture but check the orientation of the guide rod. On all the guide rods I have seen the base has an arc cut in it. In the second picture you posted it looks like that arc is facing downwards. Rotate the rod so the arc is upwards and cupping the barrel. You may find it seats fully and you'll be able to reassemble the gun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, 10X said:

That looks to be the right part, but I'm not familiar with that make, and you already have the springs.  I think the standard guide rod is less than $10 from Brownells, Midway, etc, so I'd favor one of those vendors, though I guess you'll also need to add the spring cap, but it should still come in under the ebay price.

The springs are interchangeable in size, but you pick the spring depending on the load you will be firing.   16 lbs is the 'standard' spring for a 5" 1911 like yours.   If you are going to fire a lot of heavy loads, military ball or hotter, you would go to a heavier spring to keep the frame from taking a beating.  If shooting light loads, go to a lighter spring.   I don't think you'll find commercial loads light enough for the 8# spring, but some target reloads would get you there.  Too heavy a spring with lighter loads won't hurt the gun, but you get to a point where the action won't fully cycle...time to go to a lighter spring if that happens.

I went on both brownells and midway and found midway's pricing way better than the first, parts ordered. In regards to the spring, I have 8,10,12,15,17 and 18 1/2. Would #15 be the closest spring to the 16lb standard choice to use when its time for me to take it for a test fire? Assuming I could acquire some 45 acp, I have some left over from my uncle but I have no idea what kind of loads they are since its missing the box.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Mr.Stu said:

It is not easy to tell from the picture but check the orientation of the guide rod. On all the guide rods I have seen the base has an arc cut in it. In the second picture you posted it looks like that arc is facing downwards. Rotate the rod so the arc is upwards and cupping the barrel. You may find it seats fully and you'll be able to reassemble the gun.

After watching some assembly video on YouTube I have done the exact thing u mentioned having the 2 "pointy" facing and cupping the barrel and still wouldn't budge but thank you for the input.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its a regular volt mkiv series 80 with wilson grips....

 

Get rid of the full length guide rod....add nothing but trouble...

 

The 1911 when properly sprung will not need shock buffs...  will just foul the gun...

Get a new recoil spring, new spring guide...and new barrel bushing...

I may have some for you cept the spring....

 

Will assemble like a normal 1911..but the series 80 has a firing pin safety lever etc.  Vids online.

 

And the guide rod is upside down and the link looks to be mated with the guide rod..the tabs go against the barrel

 

Where r u located?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
35 minutes ago, USRifle30Cal said:

Its a regular volt mkiv series 80 with wilson grips....

 

Get rid of the full length guide rod....add nothing but trouble...

 

The 1911 when properly sprung will not need shock buffs...  will just foul the gun...

Get a new recoil spring, new spring guide...and new barrel bushing...

I may have some for you cept the spring....

 

Will assemble like a normal 1911..but the series 80 has a firing pin safety lever etc.  Vids online.

 

And the guide rod is upside down and the link looks to be mated with the guide rod..the tabs go against the barrel

 

Where r u located?

thanks for the reply! I have ordered a standard guide rod and plug as 10X have mentioned, the only thing that I might consider now is the barrel bushing...from all the videos I've seen so far on YouTube every single one of them can swing the bushing freely effortlessly so I think it might needs to be replaced... I am located in Middlesex county, central jersey.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
59 minutes ago, zenviko said:

I went on both brownells and midway and found midway's pricing way better than the first, parts ordered. In regards to the spring, I have 8,10,12,15,17 and 18 1/2. Would #15 be the closest spring to the 16lb standard choice to use when its time for me to take it for a test fire? Assuming I could acquire some 45 acp, I have some left over from my uncle but I have no idea what kind of loads they are since its missing the box.

15 should be a fine starting point.  You’ll know to go lower if the gun doesn’t cycle with the ammo.  It’s harder to know when to go higher, but the strongest spring that allows reliable function will best protect the frame. 

Just now, zenviko said:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, zenviko said:

thanks for the reply! I have ordered a standard guide rod and plug as 10X have mentioned, the only thing that I might consider now is the barrel bushing...from all the videos I've seen so far on YouTube every single one of them can swing the bushing freely effortlessly so I think it might needs to be replaced... I am located in Middlesex county, central jersey.

I’m not sure if replacing the bushing is necessary.   True, milspec guns have loose fitting bushings; you can often remove them with your fingers.  But bushing fit is crucial for accuracy, and guns that have had accurizing work done will generally have a hand-fitted bushing-and those will be tight!   But the gun will be a lot more accurate as a result

  • Like 1
  • Informative 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, zenviko said:

thanks for the reply! I have ordered a standard guide rod and plug as 10X have mentioned, the only thing that I might consider now is the barrel bushing...from all the videos I've seen so far on YouTube every single one of them can swing the bushing freely effortlessly so I think it might needs to be replaced... I am located in Middlesex county, central jersey.

A TIGHT....well fitted bushing is your friend...too loose..bad repeatable lockup...

Spring the gun with the spec'd weight....  do you reload..?  Dor do you shoot factory 230grn ball?

  • Agree 1
  • Informative 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, zenviko said:

thanks for the reply! I have ordered a standard guide rod and plug as 10X have mentioned, the only thing that I might consider now is the barrel bushing...from all the videos I've seen so far on YouTube every single one of them can swing the bushing freely effortlessly so I think it might needs to be replaced... I am located in Middlesex county, central jersey.

@zenviko DUDE!  Your avatar says you're in Spotswood.  So go to SC Arms at Romeo Plaza and see Derek if you have any more issues.  He'll sell you some .45 ACP Ball.

FWIW lots of guys use a full-length guide rod with a shok buff, myself included.  Some full-length guide rods come in two pieces, and you screw the front piece into the piece in the spring & slide and then rotate the barrel bushing.  Your Uncle may have done that style of guide rod?

You already ordered parts, so use your new parts after you correctly install them as @Mr.Stu has pointed out to you.

Keep all the parts of the older guide rod.  If at any time you need some help, hit me up and I can meet you at Recoil.  I'm about 20 mins away.  Oh, and remember to not use "Shooter's Choice" gun cleaner if using plastic shok buffs.  Shooter's Choice eats plastic shotgun wad fouling, and thus will attack plastic shok buffs...

Rosey

https://www.cnjfo.com/join-us 

 

  • Like 1
  • Informative 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, 10X said:

15 should be a fine starting point.  You’ll know to go lower if the gun doesn’t cycle with the ammo.  It’s harder to know when to go higher, but the strongest spring that allows reliable function will best protect the frame. 

THIS^^^^

And I consider "reliable function" to be weak-hand ONLY w/o jamming due to limp-wristing.  Otherwise, if you have to engage w/o your strong-side (due to taking fire or broken arm or slicing-the-pie w/o exposing yourself to incoming rounds) and you get a JAMMARAMA, you're holding a ONE-SHOT pistol in yer hands, so make the first shot count!  Or buy a revolver! :) 

~R

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Smokin .50 said:

@zenviko DUDE!  Your avatar says you're in Spotswood.  So go to SC Arms at Romeo Plaza and see Derek if you have any more issues.  He'll sell you some .45 ACP Ball.

FWIW lots of guys use a full-length guide rod with a shok buff, myself included.  Some full-length guide rods come in two pieces, and you screw the front piece into the piece in the spring & slide and then rotate the barrel bushing.  Your Uncle may have done that style of guide rod?

You already ordered parts, so use your new parts after you correctly install them as @Mr.Stu has pointed out to you.

Keep all the parts of the older guide rod.  If at any time you need some help, hit me up and I can meet you at Recoil.  I'm about 20 mins away.  Oh, and remember to not use "Shooter's Choice" gun cleaner if using plastic shok buffs.  Shooter's Choice eats plastic shotgun wad fouling, and thus will attack plastic shok buffs...

Rosey

https://www.cnjfo.com/join-us 

 

I actually moved here about a year ago and I've been meaning to check out SC Arms and I did recently to see if I could find any AR15 5.56 but with no luck. Anyway might have to take that offer at Recoil, ill update you once I get all the parts and some .45 acp ball and no I do not plan on using plastic shok buffs thank you for ur help.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



×
×
  • Create New...