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Cheflife15

What's considered a good group?

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IT all depends on what you're shooting for and with

For precision with a handgun, I would say a cloverleaf at 7-10 yards and up to 4 inches at 25 yards.

For action shooting like IDPA or USPSA the size of the down-0 or A-zone is what you need to hit. On an IDPA target the down-0 on the body is 8" and on the head it's 4". You need to be able to hit that and whatever distance is to the target. You adjust your speed depending on the target distance. i.e. you can hit an 8" circle really fast at 7 yards, but have to slow down and aim more carefully when it's 25 yards away. IDPA has a rule that you cannot force a headshot farther than 10 yards.

With a rifle, I would want to be able to do less than 1 MOA (approx. 1" at 100 yards) shooting prone off a rest. Other positions would be larger groups than that.

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9 minutes ago, Mr.Stu said:

IT all depends on what you're shooting for and with

For precision with a handgun, I would say a cloverleaf at 7-10 yards and up to 4 inches at 25 yards.

For action shooting like IDPA or USPSA the size of the down-0 or A-zone is what you need to hit. On an IDPA target the down-0 on the body is 8" and on the head it's 4". You need to be able to hit that and whatever distance is to the target. You adjust your speed depending on the target distance. i.e. you can hit an 8" circle really fast at 7 yards, but have to slow down and aim more carefully when it's 25 yards away. IDPA has a rule that you cannot force a headshot farther than 10 yards.

With a rifle, I would want to be able to do less than 1 MOA (approx. 1" at 100 yards) shooting prone off a rest. Other positions would be larger groups than that.

What do you mean by a cloverleaf? Im not familiar with that term. 

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1 minute ago, Cheflife15 said:

What do you mean by a cloverleaf? Im not familiar with that term. 

All the holes touching which will sometimes look like a cloverleaf outline. Also know as a single hole group. It is harder to do with a .22 than a .45.

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Very subjective topic.

It all depends on what you are doing.

For example...

Confirming my zero at 25 yards:TVRzwPD.jpgStanding, 2 handed, unsupported, slow fire, with a Comped G19

VS

90 round timed course of fire from a holster at ranges from 25 yards in to 1 yard:
swPPECW.jpg
Different G19. This course of fire had time standards at each distance, mandatory moving stages, single handed (strong and support hand only) shooting, shooting with a flashlight in your support hand, mag changes, etc....


1 mag, 10 yards, standing, 2 hands unsupported. Confirming zero (this gun had a 10 yards zero - I was messing around to see what I liked better) with RDS equipped pistol: (probably should have adjusted 1 or 2 clicks right)
p54BiKw.jpg

VS

200 rounds while shooting various drills from a concealed holster:
nX0kTw9.jpg
Ranges varying from 3 yards to 40 yards. (I kept putting new B8 s on top, when I was done this was the target in the back)


Confirming 50/200 yard zero on a 16” AR with Holosun RDS at 50 yards from the prone:
zRLr78c.jpg

VS

110 round course of fire ranging from 100 yards all the way in to 5 yards. Timed course of fire requiring moving, reloads and high percentage shots.
C5RTjPt.jpg

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That’s the thing. A bullseye shooter will tell me my targets suck. And for their goals/discipline they are right. It all depends on what you are doing.

Cheflife, best thing you can do to start is get to a class with a reputable instructor. Let someone train you then practice the skills you were taught.

All the rest, working your drawstroke and transitioning between targets can be done with dry fire at home. Spend 10 minutes a couple times a week in dry fire and you will see HUGE improvements and, all it will cost you is time. Combine the dry fire practice with regular low round-count, pre-planned, deliberate, live fire range days and you are good to go.

If you can consistently keep 10 rounds in the black on a B8 target at 15 yards, slow fire, you are doing great. The speed will come. 

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