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Grima Squeakersen

temperature and humidity limits

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I store components & reload in my unfinished/non-climate controlled basement. I leave the powder in the factory jugs. Excess primers get put in a vacuum sealed bag. 

Powder & primers are not stored near each other or near the furnace/water heater or clothes dryer. I've been meaning to make a fire-insulated box to store them in, but I just have not gotten around to it yet. 

 

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Static is a potential issue with primers, and definitely an issue with black powder. Smokeless powder shouldn't be a big deal. I highly suggest anyone who reloads with smokeless powder take a small amount outside and set fire to it. It will give you some perspective on how volatile the stuff actually is. It takes more to get it going than you would think. 

Smokeless powder is also pretty resistant to humidity. It can throw off your loads if you measure each by weight rather than volume. Primers are pretty hard to make inert, and most things that will make them inert only do so temporarily.  As for heat, if you are able to reload in the space without sweating into your loads, it should be fine. 

I load in my basement. It is not climate controlled. Humidity is pretty high much of the year, so I make sure to work up new loads with freshly opened powder and just have my stuff set for volumetric measuring. Static isn't really a problem for me, but if you have a setup where it might be, just ground yourself prior to handling your primers. 

 

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There was a guy over at arf.com who claimed to work with smokeless powders. 

They would throw jugs of powder in a outdoor storage shed subject to large tempature swings and humidity. He claimed the powders were relatively unaffected due to stabilizers. 

On 8/24/2021 at 3:48 PM, samiam said:

Good stuff. About to read the thread linked in the  first reply, but an obvious follow-up question does occur to me - if it's covered there feel free to critcize :) Does anyone use silica gel packets or any similar moisture absorbent in their powder or primer storage containers? Any reason not to do so? What about the "golden rod" type heating elements? My (not fireproof) gun cabinet came with one of those installed and it seems to do a pretty good job.

Powders and primers should be stored in an "open" box such as a wood crate. Moisture absorbing chemicals wouldn't do much. 

Under no circumstances should they be stored in metal sealed containers since smokeless powder gets its explosive properties under pressure. 

Powder jugs are sealed, so moisture shouldn't be a problem. Many people have stored primers for years in attics and they still go boom. 

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I'm using powder that's 20+ years old. Stored with no climate control in original containers. Loads still chronoed like they 20 years ago.

I conducted a test in the 70s on what would deactivate primers as far as lubricants.  I used water, gun oil, WD40, and others I can't remember.  I filled primed cases with whatever and let it sit for 24 hrs. Then I loaded the cases. Nothing killed the primer except WD40.  5 out of 6 times.

I haven't worried about primers since.  I still use WD40 to flush out water. For example, if used out in the rain. If I do this I flush out the WD40 with BrakeKlenn (red can).

Red can Brakeleen is basically the same as Gunscrubber.  This is not based on "Joe told me at the gravel pit".  It's based on spectral analysis from a laboratory.  Don't ask me how I got that done!

I recently found some 357 I reloaded in 1978.  This ammo made a move to AZ, 2 moves in FL, a move to MD, and then back to NJ.  Still performed like 1978.

The component that can be effected the most is powder.  First test is smell. If it's acidic toss. Makes good fertilizer.  Goggle other tests with appearance and burn.  I've never had issues with powder in almost 50 years of reloading.

But...I'm careful and will post any issues I have.

Pretty good info you've gotten in previous responses.

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