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Best NJ legal AR muzzle brake?

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Hey guys,

What do you guy think is the best all around muzzle brake for ARs?   I'm putting together a new upper and need a muzzle device.   I run a Battlecomp 1.0 on my other rifle, and like it, but was thinking changing it up.  Was looking at the VG6 Precision Gamma but am open to other ideas.

 

Thanks!

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Why do you need a brake, is the recoil from a .223/5.56 round too much to handle?  You can always put a recoil pad on.  If it's to control muzzle rise, then what you want is a compensator.  Brakes deal with recoil, comps deal with flip, brake-comp hybrids make noise.

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I use a BCM 1.0 on one AR, another has the Spikes Dynacomp.  3rd AR has an A2 style brake.  I've got a VG6 here too - haven't put it on a rifle yet but from the design it'll look a bit blasty but will do a good job compensating.  I run the BCM 1.0 at a very high rate of fire (COUGHCOUGHFRT-15COUGHCOUGH) and it does well with muzzle flip (as long as you brace properly)

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8 minutes ago, Krdshrk said:

I use a BCM 1.0 on one AR, another has the Spikes Dynacomp.  3rd AR has an A2 style brake.  I've got a VG6 here too - haven't put it on a rifle yet but from the design it'll look a bit blasty but will do a good job compensating.  I run the BCM 1.0 at a very high rate of fire (COUGHCOUGHFRT-15COUGHCOUGH) and it does well with muzzle flip (as long as you brace properly)

Bigggggg fan of the BCM, nice way to test it lol. 

Wish they came out with the BCM sooner, I'm not particularly happy about cutting off mutlipe hundred dollar comps to slap these on. But any new upper gets one. 

  • Agree 1

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I was looking for a comp about 8 years ago and came across a video about the "Deployment Comp" by Wheaton Arms.  I had never heard of it so I started a threat about it and comps in general.  

https://www.njgunforums.com/forum/index.php?/topic/68833-recommend-compensator-anyone-use-wheaton-arms-comp/&tab=comments#comment-872521

This is the video, while a little old (2015)it explains it well and has some good information about the comp.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWqt7xjY9NA

I still have the AR and everyone who has ever shot it really likes it.  It is "blasty" if you are on either side of it but if you are at the rifle range and worried or bothered by loud noises then maybe you shouldn't be at a rifle range.

Here is a link to the product.  I wouldn't hesitate to buy one again.

https://wheatonarms.com/product/wheaton-arms-deployment-comp-5-56-with-black-nitride-qpq-finish/

 

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Impossible to advise.

Once you define what you want,  attempting to compare T he effectiveness of these devices are completely subjective and change based on 2 criteria:

1) The specific characteristics of the weapon such as: 
Barrel length, gas system length, ammo, buffer and spring specs, how the carbine is tuned etc… AND

2) The shooter’s personal attributes such as:
How recoil sensitive you are and your skill level. For example, a skilled and experienced shooter will get a larger benefit from a specific brake or comp over another, where a novice shooter may feel no change between devices. Additionally, as a new shooter, muzzle device A may initially give you the best benefit, but as you become a better shooter, muzzle device B may become a better choice. 

What I think feels the best on my rifle,  you may hate on yours today and vice versa. In a year, you may agree with me. When you get 5 shooters together to talk about muzzle devices, you will get 8 opinions on what is best for 12 different reasons…

I suggest you try as many different devices and configurations on other folk’s rifles as you can and use that experience to determine for yourself what feels best to you. 

5 hours ago, Scorpio64 said:

Why do you need a brake, is the recoil from a .223/5.56 round too much to handle?  You can always put a recoil pad on.  If it's to control muzzle rise, then what you want is a compensator.  Brakes deal with recoil, comps deal with flip, brake-comp hybrids make noise.

While 5.56/.223 won’t break your shoulder, the use of a muzzle device can increase your split times and ability to place accurate shots on target faster than a bare muzzle.

A recoil pad may cushion your shoulder, but it will do nothing to reduce gun movement under recoil that translates into disturbing the sights, which can cause a miss or slow you down and you reacquire your sight picture following recoil.

If I was shooting 2 identical rifles on a timer and with a scorable target - one with brake and one without, (I have done this specifically a SFMB556 and a crowned barrel) my splits and accuracy are significantly improved with the brake.

Personally, I really like the Surefire MB556 brake above all other muzzle devices. I currently have them on 3 or 4 carbines. The keep my muzzle flat and my dot on target when shooting quickly. It also affords me the ability to use a Warden Blast Shield if I am shooting/training around others.

The Modern Materiel brake is also very nice. One of the softest shooting brakes I have ever used and it accepts the Griffin Blast Shield.

For comps, I like the BattleComp 1.5 and BCM comps pinned on a 14.5” midlength carbines. The PWS FSC also works well in my experience. 

I do have a hybrid type SF Warcomp on my SBF “Other Firearm” that does a good job combining a hider with a comp. (The hider is legal on the “ Other Firearm”, where it would be a no-go on an AR type rifle/carbine.) if that’s a legal option, it’s a good choice.

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Modern Material Brake looks likea  good bang for your buck.  Many of the others are only $30 - $40 more so not "a lot" of difference money wise but still a slight difference.

https://modernmateriel.com/product/modern-materiel-v2-muzzle-brake/

Interesting video showing the Surefire MB556 brake and the Surefire Warden Blast Diffuser Combo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekzjiIKeOE

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3 hours ago, gleninjersey said:

if you are at the rifle range and worried or bothered by loud noises then maybe you shouldn't be at a rifle range.

When I get around to rebuilding my 7RM, I'm going to install the loudest brake I can find.  Louder means more fun.  Hope everyone on the flanks will have double ears on.

  • Haha 1

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My 2 cents... 

A Surefire SFMB would be a good choice.  Reason being...If you ever travel with the rifle to a permissible state and ever run it suppressed, this brake also serves as an adaptor for SF cans.  Also as High Exposure mentioned above...you can also attach a Warden on it.   

Otherwise, the VG6 gamma as you mentioned (not epsilon) will suffice.  

    

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1 hour ago, Johnk-NJ said:

I imagine you will want one that has a hole for pinning. 

Any bit that can get through the barrel, can get though the muzzle device.

Except TROY muzzle devices. They are hard as hell and impossible to get though without special bits, that you will end up trashing.

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1 hour ago, High Exposure said:

Any bit that can get through the barrel, can get though the muzzle device.

Except TROY muzzle devices. They are hard as hell and impossible to get though without special bits, that you will end up trashing.

Cobalt bits always work for me.

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1 hour ago, High Exposure said:

Any bit that can get through the barrel, can get though the muzzle device.

Except TROY muzzle devices. They are hard as hell and impossible to get though without special bits, that you will end up trashing.

By far the hardest muzzle brakes I’ve ever drilled through are from Troy. 
 

 

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I had 2 separate instances of gunsmiths breaking bits on lantac dragons. 

Those Troy's Midevils....Im not sure how they perform but hate to admit it but they do look pretty mean and I would expect them to be hard as nails for their intended purposes.

 

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Anything will do to cover the end of the barrel. 
 

absolute misses effective comp is the sjc titan. 
 

my personal favorite is the venom defense viper. If you catch a sale it can be as cheap as $12.95.  It’s reasonably effective, not super loud, looks pretty nice, and important for nj, you can still reach the crown to clean it. Anything with a high pressure chamber will build up deposits, and at least in one instance for me started negatively affecting accuracy. 
 

 

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1 hour ago, FairbanksRusty said:

By far the hardest muzzle brakes I’ve ever drilled through are from Troy. 
 

 

I second that sentiment. 

The bits I swear by I get from GARR TOOL. Their CARBIDE STUB DRILL HARD METAL 1500 series with only two cutting flutes works great. I'll drill twenty brakes/comps before they begin to dull.

A good drill press and a fixture for a firm hold on the brake/barrel do make a difference. I find most barrel steels soft in comparison to a brake's/comp's steel.   

 

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