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Cheflife15

Building my 1st AR

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6 minutes ago, My1stGlock said:

Make sure it’s 5.56 which will shoot .223 or a .223 wylde. Just not a plain .223 unless that’s the round u only shoot

These days, about the only barrels that are true.223 spec are mostly seen on bolt actions, or old old uppers.  On bolt action, .223 was intentionally kept for the tight chamber spec, which lends to greater accuracy.  You will also see that slower twists like 12, 10 and 9 are still very popular in the varmint bolt guns that use 40gr to 55gr pills.

223 vs 556 can be confusing because sometimes the manufacturers add to it.  For instance, Ruger's Mini-14 was chambered in 223 only, and also 556 in various models at various times.

223 Wylde, in my opinion, is just about perfect.  It's a good balance between accuracy and giving both 5.56/.223 some wiggle room.  Not that is really matters to the cartridge case, because 223 and 556 have identical external geometry.  5.56 chambering is meant for full auto reliability, not so much for accuracy.

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35 minutes ago, My1stGlock said:

I would also suggest a mid length gas system over a carbine.

Agreed.  Not only smoother cycling, but also more real estate on the handguard.  I wish I went with midi instead of carbine on my 16" M4gery.

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10 hours ago, JohnnyB said:

Yes .50 beowulf.  I even built one in 7.62x39 as shown in the 2nd pic. Let me just say that my AK-47 eats 7.62x39 without a hiccup. My AR-15 in 7.62x39 is very finicky! 7.62x39 surplus often has a very hard primer. Better with a heavier hammer and spring yet still not as reliable as the AK-47 with the same ammo.

12.7x42 or 50 beowulf as its called is like   $ 2.45 - $ 4.00 a round. :hi:

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There is a slight variation to the case dimensions between 5.56 and .223:
Pr2A97e.jpgAs well as the chamber dimensions for each:
bC6JhwN.jpg


The Wylde chamber kind of splits the difference

jFbdO0N.jpg
 

IMO - You can shoot .223 and 5.56 in a Wylde or 5.56 chambered gun with no worries.

You can probably get away with shooting 5.56 in a .223 chamber on a quality barrel for quite some time , but there have been some documented issues and it is not preferred.

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11 minutes ago, High Exposure said:

IMO - You can shoot .223 and 5.56 in a Wylde or 5.56 chambered gun with no worries.

You can probably get away with shooting 5.56 in a .223 chamber on a quality barrel for quite some time , but there have been some documented issues and it is not preferred.

Definitely.

These days it seems like most vendors will carry 5.56 barrels on most their builds to accommodate both calibers. Prob same as Cheflife's existing two rifles. Wouldn't make sense for him to build a rifle that only chambered for regular .223. Just a thought.

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3 hours ago, My1stGlock said:

I would also suggest a mid length gas system over a carbine. The recoil is minimal on an AR but I think it’s even smoother on the mid length system.

Agreed. Hard to beat a mid-length gas system with an H2 buffer and mil-spec action spring and receiver extension for smoothness.

I’m hearing good things about the A5 receiver extensions as well, but have no esperoence.

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8 minutes ago, Cheflife15 said:

Any reason not go get a spikes lower? I've been reading everything is milspec and their customer service is good. 

Since it's just a plinking gun and long term project maybe I'll get a little crazy with the aesthetics of it. 

Spikes is a good company! No reason not to use their lower.  I have an entire Spikes AR15 and it's my favorite by far!

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Don't over think it!.  Build it.  If I can do it, ANYONE can. 

I still have all my fingers and have put several hundered, at a minimum, down  range.

P.S. - Sorry if I offended anyone.  Toughen the 'eff up.  Werd.

Edit....holy sweet mother of all that is holy!!  It's been that long since I built that thing and it stil shoots great!

But seriously.  Don't overthink it.  Like I said.  If I can do it, ANYONE can.
 


 

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8 hours ago, Cheflife15 said:

Any reason not go get a spikes lower? I've been reading everything is milspec and their customer service is good. 

Since it's just a plinking gun and long term project maybe I'll get a little crazy with the aesthetics of it. 

Spikes are my favorite upper and lowers. The fit and finish are excellent. Don't cheap out on the lower parts kit. 

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39 minutes ago, silverado427 said:

Spikes are my favorite upper and lowers. The fit and finish are excellent. Don't cheap out on the lower parts kit. 

This is what I use. 
 

https://geissele.com/complete-lower-parts-kit-with-act-trigger.html

 

Love the ACT triggers. 

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39 minutes ago, silverado427 said:

Spikes are my favorite upper and lowers. The fit and finish are excellent. Don't cheap out on the lower parts kit. 

This is what I use. 
 

https://geissele.com/complete-lower-parts-kit-with-act-trigger.html

 

Love the ACT triggers. 

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39 minutes ago, silverado427 said:

Spikes are my favorite upper and lowers. The fit and finish are excellent. Don't cheap out on the lower parts kit. 

This is what I use. 
 

https://geissele.com/complete-lower-parts-kit-with-act-trigger.html

 

Love the ACT triggers. 

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8 hours ago, Cheflife15 said:

How do you feel about aero precision complete uppers?

When it comes to upper receivers (just the receiver), I am partial to BCM.  Their receivers are milspec with one exception, the barrel mount sleeves are trued (machined to a very precise right angle to the receiver), and very slightly undersized for a tight barrel fit. Id est, better than milspec.  The snug fit and truing all but ensure a 1moa or better rifle, as long as you pair it with a decent barrel.

I'm sure there are other upper receivers on par with BCM, but I can't tell you which ones.

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17 hours ago, Displaced Texan said:

For the most part, a mil spec lower is a mil spec lower. Pick the one with the roll mark you like. 

 

 

Yup as Texan stated choose the roll mark you like ..... PSA, Aero, Bushmaster, Spikes. I've built on them all and no issues. I've even used blem PSA lowers. 

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For your first AR build, I would recommend an AR15 over a AR9 or AR10.  Almost all AR15 parts from all manufacturers are interchangeable.   Not true with AR10's and AR9's.  Also would recommend buying a complete upper.  Saves time and money.  

You can def build a lower.  My first took about an hour while watching videos.  Highly recommend using a 1/4" clevis pin to help install the take down pin.  Easy AR-15 Front Takedown Pin Assembly - YouTube  

Aero makes a decent lower.  Nice part is they use screws instead of roll pins which gets rid of the hard parts.  Realize that you can get lowers from $50-150, but your FFL may charge around $75 to transfer one you buy online. This usually means buying a lower from your LGS will end up being cheaper since they usually don't charge for the transfer when you buy from them. 

For what you are looking for buy a PSA complete upper.  

If you haven't read the AR-15 Newbie FAQ, check it as it will probably answer in detail some of your other questions about best twist rate, bullet grains, caliber, etc.  

Get an armorers wrench.   You already have roll pin punches.  I use a roll of duct tape instead of a gun block.  Use painters tape on the lower to protect it.  

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On 1/6/2023 at 6:55 PM, Malice4you said:

When (and it is WHEN, NOT if) one of the springs or pins tries to go into low earth orbit, it will remain in a bag, not the other end of the house, somehow.

Those goddamn springs get to locations in my house even my cats don't know about!

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5 minutes ago, 45Doll said:

Those goddamn springs get to locations in my house even my cats don't know about!

Yep, I always build lowers inside a large, clear plastic trash bag. 
I’ve launched my share of springs and learned the hard way. 

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2 hours ago, High Exposure said:

And you should be ashamed of yourself using my name like that….

Eh, ....  In my case, it was a short, very, very passionate prayer for assistance.  It was my bad for breaking the chain of command and not appealing to St. Anthony first. 

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