checko 180 Posted April 13, 2016 Do you have nods? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thelosticon 0 Posted April 13, 2016 Do you have nods? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Well that would be kinda silly to have ir without nods Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
checko 180 Posted April 13, 2016 Lol ok just checking Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vlad G 345 Posted April 13, 2016 Am I seeing things or is your flashlight hanging onto the end of the barrel? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thelosticon 0 Posted April 13, 2016 Am I seeing things or is your flashlight hanging onto the end of the barrel? I wanted it as far forward as I could, I welded a two slot steel picatinny section on the barrel to make that work. ran about 200 rounds through it since the weld job, seems its holding up just fine. bad idea? it seemed like the best solution at the time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
raz-0 1,259 Posted April 13, 2016 I wanted it as far forward as I could, I welded a two slot steel picatinny section on the barrel to make that work. ran about 200 rounds through it since the weld job, seems its holding up just fine. bad idea? it seemed like the best solution at the time. OK, so what is the rail that the haley sling mount is attached to, attached to? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vlad G 345 Posted April 13, 2016 Well .. I'm not really concerned about the weld so much, as much as I'm concerned about hanging a pile of weight from the end of the barrel. Is your sling mount attached to it as well? I normally think that adding weight to the barrel and placing stresses on it is not an ideal setup, but maybe I'm not understanding what you were going for. If it works for you, thats great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thelosticon 0 Posted April 13, 2016 Haley sling mount is attached to the Adams arms gas block, independent of the light mount weld Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
High Exposure 5,661 Posted April 13, 2016 I wanted it as far forward as I could, I welded a two slot steel picatinny section on the barrel to make that work. ran about 200 rounds through it since the weld job, seems its holding up just fine. bad idea? it seemed like the best solution at the time. Why do you want it that far forward? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thelosticon 0 Posted April 13, 2016 Why do you want it that far forward? it just seemed to work out better with my grip and the placement of the tape switch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Purple Patrick 638 Posted April 13, 2016 This is what I'm using for my new build the unity tactical monkeybar that attaches to magpul pro sights to give maximum forward compatibility Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
High Exposure 5,661 Posted April 13, 2016 You are probably better served with a longer rail. Also, with the light that far forward, it is gonna take a beating next to the Battlecomp. Unity Tactical makes good stuff! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Purple Patrick 638 Posted April 14, 2016 You are probably better served with a longer rail. Also, with the light that far forward, it is gonna take a beating next to the Battlecomp. Unity Tactical makes good stuff! I really like the monkey bar but it only accepts certain lights without adapters Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eric. 9 Posted April 14, 2016 I wanted it as far forward as I could, I welded a two slot steel picatinny section on the barrel to make that work. ran about 200 rounds through it since the weld job, seems its holding up just fine. bad idea? it seemed like the best solution at the time. What everyone is hinting at is that its generally a bad idea to have anything attached to the barrel, unnecessarily. The foremost reason being that it changes your barrel harmonics, which affects accuracy. Also, welding a brace (pic rail section) can cause the barrel to torque oddly as it heats up. You could have a huge POI shift. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mipafox 438 Posted April 14, 2016 Well that would be kinda silly to have ir without nods I have an IR laser aimer (not torch) but I took it off my last rifle and have not mounted it again. It worked great. Using the M69 with NVG is a PITA, I prefer the laser or my NV rifle scope. My main set is two 72 lp OMNI VI tubes that exceed OMNI VIII specs. They were hand picked from hand picked Raptor tubes back in the day. Thin filmed but not autogated. It was the best you could get as the OMNIBUS was screwing around with transition and dumping Gen IV filmless in the trashcan. Need to mount it up again and go to my buddy's range to do something stupid. Sometimes I wish I hunted, that would be interesting. But pretty much no semis (or auto) for hunting in this backwards state. I guess at night you only get one animal at a time anyway, unless you have pigs in your area. But who wants to take their gear off their AR and sight it in on a bolt action for a night's work. PITA. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
High Exposure 5,661 Posted April 14, 2016 I have a PVS-14. I want a dual tube/ANVIS set up so badly.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mipafox 438 Posted April 14, 2016 There are advantages to both. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
High Exposure 5,661 Posted April 14, 2016 I just want depth perception. My neck gets tired moving my head back and forth and all around all night with all that extra weight on it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thelosticon 0 Posted April 14, 2016 I'm slowly saving for a pvs14, its just hard to drop that much on a single item. The one that you see below is a cheap sub $300 range from eBay. Its a gen 1+ sightmark ghost hunter. The Wilcox mount that it sits on costs more than the dam monocular. It came with this obnoxious head mount, but I modified the attachment point to use the Wilcox mount. I don't even know why I want the setup other than I just do, the whole thing started with wanting to buy a knockoff ops core helmet to play paintball games and that quickly worked its way into a level IIIa helmet with nods. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
High Exposure 5,661 Posted April 14, 2016 I'm lucky - mine is issued from work. I could never justify dropping that much dough on them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MidwestPX 172 Posted April 14, 2016 I'm lucky - mine is issued from work. I could never justify dropping that much dough on them. I'm glad I'm not the only one in this situation. I want a TW helmet to go with NODs...too bad I don't have a spare $10k laying around Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
High Exposure 5,661 Posted April 14, 2016 It gets crazy expensive! You can drop thousands of dollars on just the Rhino mount and another $1k on just the helmet plate - and you haven't even gotten to the actual NOD or helmet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mipafox 438 Posted April 14, 2016 Trust me. Been there, done that. I've got 2 NVG sets, one 25mm tube high end Gen II rifle scope, thermal, and a pile of useless Gen I crap. The riflescope is awesome, being a 25mm tube it increases the resolution quite a bit. But the screen looks like it was made in Spotsylvania It really does work great. My NVGs are top notch, though. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
High Exposure 5,661 Posted April 14, 2016 Trust me. Been there, done that. I've got 2 NVG sets, one 25mm tube high end Gen II rifle scope, thermal, and a pile of useless Gen I crap.The riflescope is awesome, being a 25mm tube it increases the resolution quite a bit. But the screen looks like it was made in Spotsylvania :DIt really does work great. My NVGs are top notch, though.My NODS are nice. Clear gen 3+ and I added a Wilcox Amber filter to help with the "Green-ache" from wearing them too long. I'm jealous of your dual tube set up though. Ok, To get us back on the "AR pics, let's see'um" track: I took my three Brothers-in-Law to a beginner AR class last Saturday (Sights & Triggers). They had never fired an AR and 2 of them are not gun owners, one is a very new pistol owner. None were anti-gun, but they weren't really pro gun either. Recently they began asking me questions about firearms in general and then specifically about NJ Gun Laws and getting an FID. So I figured, let's go shoot and get them hooked! I signed us all up for Signts and Triggers Beginner Carbine Class and provided everything for the four of us: Rifles, pistols, mags, pouches, holsters, ammo, and eye and ear pro. The class was well run and they had fun while learning a thing or two - despite the snow and rain we had all day. Joe did a great job with 3 brand new shooters in the class. S&T is highly recomended! Since the class, one has already applied for his FID, the other is in negotiations with the wife and it is looking good! Anyway, I needed an extra AR as I was providing the equipment for everyone. So.... I built this carbine out of some parts I had on hand in the bin* : - Stag Lower - MWPX ALG ACT LPK - Battle Arms ambi selector - Battle Arms takedown pin - Oversized aluminum trigger guard - BCM GF Grip - BCM receiver extension kit - BCM QD receiver end plate - BCM upper - BCM Mod 4 Charging Handle - BCM BCG - BCM low-pro gas block - DD CHF barrel (carbine length) - ALG EMR V2 MLOK 13" tube - Magpul BAD Lever - Magpul MLOK handstop - Magpul MLOK type 1 & 2 covers - Magpul front sling mount for paraclip - Magpul CTR stock with enhanced pad - Magpul MS1 sling with rear QD & front paraclip - Troy BUIS set front and back - AimPoint T1 w/iO cover in DD tall mount - Surefire "Furious" Scout in Arisaka Inline MLOK mount - Surefire 556 brake w/Warden* Carbine ran like a sewing machine and it is very lightweight and fast shooting. 297 rounds fired in class without a hiccup. To say I am pleased is an understatement. This may very well be my new favorite carbine. The only thing I would have done differently is I would have liked to have used a lightweight mid-length barrel. * Surefire brake and warden were bought after the fact. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff47 30 Posted April 14, 2016 HE, you have an extensive parts bin. At the risk of derailing this thread again, how do you like the BAD lever, is it worth getting? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vlad G 345 Posted April 14, 2016 It is a bit strange when you shake a box of parts and accidentally an AR falls out. My only problem with that is that usually the parts in the box are parts I've decommisioned or decided not to use for a reason, so then I end up with rifle made entirely of parts I don't want Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jrfly3006 42 Posted April 14, 2016 Muzz beeeee niiice to have an Aimpoint T1 laying around in the parts box..lol Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
High Exposure 5,661 Posted April 14, 2016 It is a bit strange when you shake a box of parts and accidentally an AR falls out. My only problem with that is that usually the parts in the box are parts I've decommisioned or decided not to use for a reason, so then I end up with rifle made entirely of parts I don't want Some parts were bought with the intent of upgrading an existing rifle down the road. Lowers were bought to squirrel away for a rainy day. Some stuff was bought on sale just because the price was right. Some parts were jockeyed from other rifles to make a gun suitable for a noob to run in a beginner carbine class. The best part is, all I need is a barrel and I can build another Muzz beeeee niiice to have an Aimpoint T1 laying around in the parts box..lol Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk it is. It really, really, is! And I still have PRO and an RMR in there. The Vortex StrikeEagle freed the T1 up from another rifle. :D As to the BAD lever: I like it, although I know a lot of folks don't. It is lightning fast during reloads, but I feel it shines most by being able to lock the bolt back - either administratively or when clearing a malfunction -without doing the funky hand-jive shuffle. Whether or not it's worth it? That's completely subjective. It works as advertised - if you are comfortable adjusting the manual of arms to incorporate the BAD and creating the procedural memory to go with it. I will tell you this - If you put a BAD lever on one gun, you need to put it on all of them because once you are used to it you will attempt to use it whether the rifle in your hands is equipped with one or not. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vlad G 345 Posted April 15, 2016 And another thing about it is that it doesn't change the manual of arms if someone else uses your rifle. Everything still works the way it always did but having the extra ability to lock back the bolt or drop it during a lock back reload is really quite wonderful. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
n4p226r 105 Posted April 15, 2016 I wanted it as far forward as I could, I welded a two slot steel picatinny section on the barrel to make that work. ran about 200 rounds through it since the weld job, seems its holding up just fine. bad idea? it seemed like the best solution at the time. Seems weird to put on a cas-v which is designed to free float, and then not free float everything. Cool looking setup otherwise Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites