AR-15 Custom Build (opinions, advice?)

[raz-0 1,259]

OK, my $0.02 on the original build list.

 

SPikes billet upper and lower are as good as any other, but WHY?

 

Once you take out looking cool, the only reason for a billet upper is precision, and you get that by having it be more rigid and being machined to tight tolerances with true faces and concentric openings. Which is all well and good, but you then pair it with a 14.5" barrel. Which basically means an m-4 style fake. Which has to be 16" long in the end anyway. The only reason for a billet lower is... well to look cool, or for a really nice match to your billet upper. Yeah, you can get a flared mag well, but an arredondo mag well has a bigger opening than any of the billet lowers I have run into.

 

So do you want light, or accurate. For light, I'd go with a good forged upper and lower with tension screw from any good manufacturer (firebird are good and reasonably priced, but there are many out there). For accurate, I'd go for any of the tons of matched billet uppers and lowers. For a compromise, whcih is what I actually did for my own, I'd get a decent forged lower with a tension screw, and I'd get something like the rainier arms billet upper. It's almost as light as a forged upper, but it is very well machined and not insanely priced.

 

Then there's the barrel. Why 14.5"? You lose velocity and accuracy. Most 14.5" barrels are cut like an m-4, which means the grenade launcher cut, which is something nobody persuing accuracy would do to a barrel. So why not just a light 16" barrel? Additionally, with a 16" you can go for a mid-length gas system, whcih will help mellow out recoil This will help with accuracy and speed on follow up shots.

 

 

Battlecomp 1.5 - the emphasis on these are making the noise go forward rather than being a comp. In my experience, unless you are near walls, it doesn't matter that much and I'd jsut get a comp. If you want something short on your 16" to keep overall length short, the nordic components tactical comp is short and pretty damn effective for it's size. It's also only $35.

 

 

Piston system - just don't bother. The biggest problem with the AR platform for reliability is the fact that the dust cover doesn't close itself, and crap can get in. I've shot a lot of wolf through my gun, which isn't very clean, and 1200 rounds without a cleaning caused no issue, and wasn't even that hard to de-crapify after the fact.

 

Spikes MP tested bolt assembly. It's GTG if you believe spikes is actually doing what they say regarding testing. There's a giant pissing contest over that form various makers right now. but a HPT/MPI bolt carrier group is a good thing.

 

Mil-spec trigger. Good god no. Just no. If you were building a bargain basement gun sure. Something like the Geissele Super Semi-Automatic is a good reliable trigger for the money.

 

Pinned CTR stock. I'm not a fan of pinning collapsible stocks. Because at that point you have a fixed stock, and if I'm going to ahve a fixed stock anyway, I have to ask what I am compromising on. First, I could just go with a rifle length tube and buffer. What would I get for this? 1 - no messing around with buffer weight guessing. The rifle length buffer is heavier than the carbines, and will absorb a harsh gas impulse. The spring is less beefy and longer, which means a more gradual return to battery. Go midlength gas system and rifle length buffer assembly, and you ahve a NJ compliant carbine with a rifle like recoil impulse. Wieght with arfx stock and rifle assembly is about 19.02 ounces. A ctr with carbine H2 assembly is 18.36 ounces. It's very close in weight. The only reason I'd even consider a pinned stock is if I were going to seriously commit to practicing with a sling and wanted to use something like the magpul ASAP.

 

7" lite rail. Go midlength on the gas system, and get a midlenght or full length rail. I recommend full length. If you brace it in a port, you want to be able to avoid burying yourself in the port, and you want to not use the abrrel to brace the rifle, but the free floated forearm. This reasoning is why you see a mess of dissipator style builds, and a lot of backup iron front sights are set up to be mounted on a forearm rather than on a gas block.

 

BCM gunfighter medium chagring handle. Big yes on this. An awesome part worth every penny.

 

MIAD grip is good, so are others. If you have big hands, MIAD is probably the best fit when set up right, and has decent storage that stays securely closed.

[SSlav 14]

OK, my $0.02 on the original build list.

 

Good god Matt, I wish I had your patience.

[Dan 177]

Nice post raz-0. I just have one comment:

 

Then there's the barrel. Why 14.5"? You lose velocity and accuracy. Most 14.5" barrels are cut like an m-4, which means the grenade launcher cut, which is something nobody persuing accuracy would do to a barrel. So why not just a light 16" barrel? Additionally, with a 16" you can go for a mid-length gas system, whcih will help mellow out recoil This will help with accuracy and speed on follow up shots.

 

You can go with a mid-length gas system with a 14.5" barrel/pinned brake combo as well. BCM sells a bunch of them without the launcher cut. And I own one.

 

Everything else is great advice and I found reading enlightening.

[Kuryakin 1]

OK, my $0.02 on the original build list.

 

SPikes billet upper and lower are as good as any other, but WHY?

 

Once you take out looking cool, the only reason for a billet upper is precision, and you get that by having it be more rigid and being machined to tight tolerances with true faces and concentric openings. Which is all well and good, but you then pair it with a 14.5" barrel. Which basically means an m-4 style fake. Which has to be 16" long in the end anyway. The only reason for a billet lower is... well to look cool, or for a really nice match to your billet upper. Yeah, you can get a flared mag well, but an arredondo mag well has a bigger opening than any of the billet lowers I have run into.

 

So do you want light, or accurate. For light, I'd go with a good forged upper and lower with tension screw from any good manufacturer (firebird are good and reasonably priced, but there are many out there). For accurate, I'd go for any of the tons of matched billet uppers and lowers. For a compromise, whcih is what I actually did for my own, I'd get a decent forged lower with a tension screw, and I'd get something like the rainier arms billet upper. It's almost as light as a forged upper, but it is very well machined and not insanely priced.

 

Then there's the barrel. Why 14.5"? You lose velocity and accuracy. Most 14.5" barrels are cut like an m-4, which means the grenade launcher cut, which is something nobody persuing accuracy would do to a barrel. So why not just a light 16" barrel? Additionally, with a 16" you can go for a mid-length gas system, whcih will help mellow out recoil This will help with accuracy and speed on follow up shots.

 

 

Battlecomp 1.5 - the emphasis on these are making the noise go forward rather than being a comp. In my experience, unless you are near walls, it doesn't matter that much and I'd jsut get a comp. If you want something short on your 16" to keep overall length short, the nordic components tactical comp is short and pretty damn effective for it's size. It's also only $35.

 

 

Piston system - just don't bother. The biggest problem with the AR platform for reliability is the fact that the dust cover doesn't close itself, and crap can get in. I've shot a lot of wolf through my gun, which isn't very clean, and 1200 rounds without a cleaning caused no issue, and wasn't even that hard to de-crapify after the fact.

 

Spikes MP tested bolt assembly. It's GTG if you believe spikes is actually doing what they say regarding testing. There's a giant pissing contest over that form various makers right now. but a HPT/MPI bolt carrier group is a good thing.

 

Mil-spec trigger. Good god no. Just no. If you were building a bargain basement gun sure. Something like the Geissele Super Semi-Automatic is a good reliable trigger for the money.

 

Pinned CTR stock. I'm not a fan of pinning collapsible stocks. Because at that point you have a fixed stock, and if I'm going to ahve a fixed stock anyway, I have to ask what I am compromising on. First, I could just go with a rifle length tube and buffer. What would I get for this? 1 - no messing around with buffer weight guessing. The rifle length buffer is heavier than the carbines, and will absorb a harsh gas impulse. The spring is less beefy and longer, which means a more gradual return to battery. Go midlength gas system and rifle length buffer assembly, and you ahve a NJ compliant carbine with a rifle like recoil impulse. Wieght with arfx stock and rifle assembly is about 19.02 ounces. A ctr with carbine H2 assembly is 18.36 ounces. It's very close in weight. The only reason I'd even consider a pinned stock is if I were going to seriously commit to practicing with a sling and wanted to use something like the magpul ASAP.

 

7" lite rail. Go midlength on the gas system, and get a midlenght or full length rail. I recommend full length. If you brace it in a port, you want to be able to avoid burying yourself in the port, and you want to not use the abrrel to brace the rifle, but the free floated forearm. This reasoning is why you see a mess of dissipator style builds, and a lot of backup iron front sights are set up to be mounted on a forearm rather than on a gas block.

 

BCM gunfighter medium chagring handle. Big yes on this. An awesome part worth every penny.

 

MIAD grip is good, so are others. If you have big hands, MIAD is probably the best fit when set up right, and has decent storage that stays securely closed.

 

 

Thanks for the input, very interesting. I don't like the full stock, it just feels bulky to me. Can you tell me why a standard trigger is so bad? I picked the battlecomp for it's recoil reduction abilities.

 

 

 

 

Here is what I put together so far...

 

 

 

BCM BFH 14.5"" Mid Length Upper Receiver Group w/ Daniel Defense LITE 12"" Handguard

w/ Muzzle Device:Add Battle Comp BC 1.5 Black (Permanent Install)

 

Spike's Tactical Biohazard Lower w/ Enhanced Kit - Black CTR Stock & MOE Grip

 

BCM Bolt Carrier Group (MPI) - Auto

 

BCMGUNFIGHTER Charging Handle (5.56mm/.223) w/ Mod 4 (MEDIUM) Latch

 

Magpul ASAP Ambidextrous Sling Attachment Point

 

Magpul AFG2 (Angle Forward Grip 2) - Foliage Green

 

Magpul AR-15/M16 MBUS SIGHT SYSTEM

[Cylinder Head 22]

I'm with Raz-o on the majority of his comments as well, although I have experience with several different comps and I'll tell you that the Battlecomp 1.0 is not just the Gucci Part-of-the-Moment, it really kicks a**. Also, with regards to collapsible stocks, do you, there are several smiths who will pin them and you can customize the length to your own preference. As for trigger I'd agree with a Geissele, but after shooting an SSA I wasn't ultra impressed. Recently bought an SD-E and it is an absolute REVOLUTION in trigger design. Going to the Bullet Hole tomorrow to blast some paper with it.

[Dan 177]

Thanks for the input, very interesting. I don't like the full stock, it just feels bulky to me. Can you tell me why a standard trigger is so bad? I picked the battlecomp for it's recoil reduction abilities.

 

 

 

 

Here is what I put together so far...

 

 

 

BCM BFH 14.5"" Mid Length Upper Receiver Group w/ Daniel Defense LITE 12"" Handguard

w/ Muzzle Device:Add Battle Comp BC 1.5 Black (Permanent Install)

 

Spike's Tactical Biohazard Lower w/ Enhanced Kit - Black CTR Stock & MOE Grip

 

BCM Bolt Carrier Group (MPI) - Auto

 

BCMGUNFIGHTER Charging Handle (5.56mm/.223) w/ Mod 4 (MEDIUM) Latch

 

Magpul ASAP Ambidextrous Sling Attachment Point

 

Magpul AFG2 (Angle Forward Grip 2) - Foliage Green

 

Magpul AR-15/M16 MBUS SIGHT SYSTEM

 

Raden, is that a billet lower kit? Saw it on Spike's site. Pretty pricey.

 

You could get a Spike's lower from Aimsurplus.com for $79 (if they still have them).

Also, IMO the CTR is a waste of money as you will be pinning it anyway. Take a look at the MOE.

 

Check out Palmetto State Armory's lower build kits. You can even get them with a Geissele trigger if you want : http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/lower-build-kits.php

[Kuryakin 1]

Raden, is that a billet lower kit? Saw it on Spike's site. Pretty pricey.

 

You could get a Spike's lower from Aimsurplus.com for $79 (if they still have them).

Also, IMO the CTR is a waste of money as you will be pinning it anyway. Take a look at the MOE.

 

Check out Palmetto State Armory's lower build kits. You can even get them with a Geissele trigger if you want : http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/lower-build-kits.php

 

 

You're right its costly.

 

They have one without the stock,I like the design of the ST lower. Besides the Biohazard logo, it seems very functional

 

Biohazard Lower w/ Enhanced Kit - No Stock

 

Features

 

Biohazard Logo

Bullet Pictogram Selector Markings

Low Shelf, RDIAS Compatible

ST Enhanced LPK

-Spike's Billet Trigger guard w/Set screw

-KNS Gen II Mod II Anti-Rotation pins

-Spider Logo'd Ergo grip (Choose from Black, FDE, or OD Green)

-ST Battle trigger with Nickel Boron Coated Mil-Spec Single Stage Trigger, Disconnect, and Rounded hammer

-Ambi Safety Selector

-Mil-Spec bolt catch, mag catch, and mag catch button

-Mil-Spec detents, plungers, pins, and springs

-Quality Spiral roll pins for trigger guard and bolt catch

-1/4 Allen screw with washer for grip

6-Position Buffer Tube, Castle Nut, Staked Latch Plate

17-4 Stainless Buffer Spring

ST-T2 Buffer

No Stock Included

ST Ergo Pistol Grip

 

 

I can buy and pin the MOE stock and have it pinned anyway.

[Cylinder Head 22]

Tons of instructions on the net how to pin an MOE yourself. Build looks solid.

[Kuryakin 1]

Tons of instructions on the net how to pin an MOE yourself. Build looks solid.

 

 

Yeah I will probably end up doing that myself I will get the lower parts first before I get the upper.

[Dan 177]

Sounds good. In the end get what makes you happy. That's a very nice lower.

 

Pinning the MOE is easy, here is a vid doing the CTR, same concept with MOE. Vid

 

You are doing it the right way. Get the pinning done before you take shipment of the upper.

[Kuryakin 1]

Sounds good. In the end get what makes you happy. That's a very nice lower.

 

Pinning the MOE is easy, here is a vid doing the CTR, same concept with MOE. Vid

 

You are doing it the right way. Get the pinning done before you take shipment of the upper.

 

 

Thanks!!! I just hope the ST lower and that BCM upper fit nice and tight!

[bbk 188]

The KNS anti-rotation pins are kind of pointless too IMO. But if you want the cool factor, I can't tell you how to spend your money.

 

I personally think the standard mil-spec trigger is fine. If your purpose was [semi] precision, then I'd agree that a dressed up trig job is required. But for BG-sized targets it does the job just fine.

 

I also agree that the BCE is well worth the money. Had the chance to shoot a 7.62 along with my bud's 5.56, both with the BCE, and it made a world of difference (in both cases).

 

Regarding stocks and barrel lengths... that's all your preference, and no matter what anybody tells you is "good" and/or "bad," you have to make that conclusion for yourself.

I too find the full-sized A2-type stocks very unwieldy, especially from a standing position. But I also think pinning a collapsible stock is illogical, and a waste of money. I got a Sully stock, and its been better then great for me (and its rock solid-- and it looks pretty good too). As for barrel length... well, we can argue ballistics all day, but for most of our purposes the difference between 14.5 and 16 is negligible. You can easily shoot at distances of 200-300 yards just fine (with the longest range I go only being 200 in NJ anyway). If you had to consistently engage 300yd+, then yea, I'd say a 16'' (or 18'' for that matter) would be better suited.

 

Good luck with the purchase. I do praise you for doing your homework and putting yourself out there, even if you do get flamed on here and there . In the end, you will definitely get far more for your money as opposed to buying something overpriced.

[tuktuk 16]

If you want something one step above "regular" receiver you Shud look into FailZero.

That's my next buy.

 

http://www.failzero.com/

 

PS +1 on mil-spec trigger and +1 on 16" barrel

[Kuryakin 1]

There are so many options my head is spinning, and the BCM upper I want is out of stock

[raz-0 1,259]

Nice post raz-0. I just have one comment:

 

 

 

You can go with a mid-length gas system with a 14.5" barrel/pinned brake combo as well. BCM sells a bunch of them without the launcher cut. And I own one.

 

Everything else is great advice and I found reading enlightening.

 

I've seen people have issues with slower ammo and mid-length gas systems on a 14.5" barrel. Cold weather likely makes things worse. IMO for 1" extra length, you get more velocity and less potential hassles. So, that's what I recommend. I put the 14.5" + midlength gas system in the same boat as 18" barrels and rifle length gas systems. It works for a lot of people, SHOULD work all the time, but there's a reason companies like noveske make their 18" with a mid length gas system. For me, I tend to value accuracy, soft recoil impulse, handiness, and reliability. The 14.5" when you have to have a pinned stock might be the deal if you want minimal overall length, but for me just isn't worth it. The 18" barrels, there's more room for ambivalence in my worldview on what a rifle should be. But when talking a non-NFA carbine, if I lived where collapsible stocks were legal, I'd not care about 1" of barrel length for a muzzle device ont he compact scale even less. Most of my assessment is subjective. The objective bit is you are moving a bit farther form asking for issues balancing your gas system, and you get other benefits for it.

 

Thanks for the input, very interesting. I don't like the full stock, it just feels bulky to me. Can you tell me why a standard trigger is so bad? I picked the battlecomp for it's recoil reduction abilities.

 

 

 

 

Here is what I put together so far...

 

 

 

BCM BFH 14.5"" Mid Length Upper Receiver Group w/ Daniel Defense LITE 12"" Handguard

w/ Muzzle Device:Add Battle Comp BC 1.5 Black (Permanent Install)

 

Spike's Tactical Biohazard Lower w/ Enhanced Kit - Black CTR Stock & MOE Grip

 

BCM Bolt Carrier Group (MPI) - Auto

 

BCMGUNFIGHTER Charging Handle (5.56mm/.223) w/ Mod 4 (MEDIUM) Latch

 

Magpul ASAP Ambidextrous Sling Attachment Point

 

Magpul AFG2 (Angle Forward Grip 2) - Foliage Green

 

Magpul AR-15/M16 MBUS SIGHT SYSTEM

 

One of the reasons I like the ARFX stock is that with the normal pad it is a-2 length. With the x-long pad, it is over a-2 length, without any pad it is a-1 length. So it is reasonably adaptable to different sized shooters and stances. Most of my preference for a fixed stock is that you can't have a proper collapsible stock in NJ, and with a rifle buffer system, you disturb your sight picture less. As for the stock trigger, One of the main reasons for avoiding them IMHO is QC. The nicest mil-spec triggers I have felt are usable. About 6 lbs pull with a smooth pre-travel and a bit of overtravel with some creep in them. The worst however are REALLY bad. Like the one I got on my ar-10. Pull was over 12 lbs. Creep for days, and the trigger pull felt like you were dragging a can of chunky soup down a gravel driveway with your trigger finger. BAD.

 

Can mil-spec triggers be fixed? yes, but usually not without messing with either springs, which can cause light strikes on hard primers, and/or reshaping or polishing mating surfaces, which can go through the surface hardening. Most reputable aftermarket triggers at this point are through hardened, good quality steel that is EDM wire cut, and the spring choices are made by people who know more than I do about balancing things out so they work right. So I give them money and avoid wasting expensive ammo dealing with hassles form a cheap trigger.

 

I also have a personal preference for 2-stage triggers, but thats me. If doing a DIY build, I recommend trying what comes int he lower parts kit before buying a better trigger. However, if I am paying someone else to build it, I'd pay for something better. I listed the Giselle trigger above as a compromise of not too pricey with good QC and decent feel. I know what I like, and that's not what I would buy myself though.

 

 

 

I'm with Raz-o on the majority of his comments as well, although I have experience with several different comps and I'll tell you that the Battlecomp 1.0 is not just the Gucci Part-of-the-Moment, it really kicks a**. Also, with regards to collapsible stocks, do you, there are several smiths who will pin them and you can customize the length to your own preference. As for trigger I'd agree with a Geissele, but after shooting an SSA I wasn't ultra impressed. Recently bought an SD-E and it is an absolute REVOLUTION in trigger design. Going to the Bullet Hole tomorrow to blast some paper with it.

 

The SSA isn't my first choice. It's just a not too expensive conservative choice that I don't feel bad recommending over the pot luck prize in a LPK.

 

As for the battle comp, everyone seems to say it isn't bad. But there are definitely more effective comps out there for less money. An effective comp is a good thing in my world, so I skip the battlecomp. It's a decent choice if your measurement of compromise includes quiet, price, and comp effectiveness, just not my cup of tea. My main point was that one should know why they want it, and what youa re compromising on, not that it is crap.

 

 

The KNS anti-rotation pins are kind of pointless too IMO. But if you want the cool factor, I can't tell you how to spend your money.

 

*snip*

 

Anti walk pins are a good thing IMO. I have ones that will rotate, but not walk out. They have little e-clips. Unfortunately simple basic anti-walk pins aren't as available as they used to be unless you get them with your trigger kit. The KNS pins are anti-walk and readily available, if pricier than necessary because they also prevent rotation and thus are more complicated in design than a pin with a groove in it.

[Dan 177]

It works for a lot of people, SHOULD work all the time, but there's a reason companies like noveske make their 18" with a mid length gas system.

 

Noveske's Afghan and Recon barrels are both 14.5" barrels with mid-length gas systems. Am I missing something?

[intercooler 41]

my bcm shoots flawless...14.5 middy hammer forged barrel...for 75 more than a regular upper? pft! what is there not to like?

[NJ_gunman 1]

You dont have to pin/weld a 16" barrel in terms of making it longer. That is a legal length.

 

You will have to pin/weld something to cover the threads (as we can't have threaded barrels in NJ); however. There are available metal thread protectors that could serve this function (would still need to be pinned welded).

 

Personally if I didn't want a muzzle device, I would go with an 18" barrel, and have it cut, profiled, and crowned. That or find a 16" barrel without threads. Most out there tend to be the "bull" heavy barrels, not something you would want for a light and quick AR platform.

 

 

 

What length barrels are legal in NJ? Are there length parameters set forth by the state? Thanks.

[Dan 177]

What length barrels are legal in NJ? Are there length parameters set forth by the state? Thanks.

 

2C:39-1

o. "Sawed-off shotgun" means any shotgun having a barrel or barrels of less than 18 inches in length measured from the breech to the muzzle, or a rifle having a barrel or barrels of less than 16 inches in length measured from the breech to the muzzle, or any firearm made from a rifle or a shotgun, whether by alteration, or otherwise, if such firearm as modified has an overall length of less than 26 inches.

[JackDaWack 2,895]

you can buy a 14.5 inch barrel and have 1.5 inch break since the break must be permanently attached it becomes part of the barrel and the muzzle is considered the end of the break. I would rather have the extra barrel length personally.

[alowerlevel 77]

you can buy a 14.5 inch barrel and have 1.5 inch break since the break must be permanently attached it becomes part of the barrel and the muzzle is considered the end of the break. I would rather have the extra barrel length personally.

Actually the brake needs to be 2"+ to make the OAL of the barrel more than 16", because you have to take into account that the brake threads onto the barrel about 1/2" or so.

[JackDaWack 2,895]

good point.

[raz-0 1,259]

Noveske's Afghan and Recon barrels are both 14.5" barrels with mid-length gas systems. Am I missing something?

 

*shrug*

 

Probably not. I didn't notice they were mid-length last time I was there. I stopped checking into the world of 14.5" barrels a while ago because they don't really interest me given that you have to get them over 16" anyway. Doing the math, a 14.5" with a midlength has more dwell than a 17" barrel with a rifle system and still has the higher impulse pressure due to slightly shorter lock time a midlength has. So it shouldn't be as big a deal. If a reputable dealer says it will work and offers exchange or refund on the upper, they know what they are doing. For a DIY, most gas problems can be sorted out with drilling and buffer swaps. But that costs money and requires tools, patience, and skill. So I tend to recommend safe combinations to a DIY build. In general, the longest gas system you can get to work reliably is the most desirable. The fact that 14.5" guns come with pinned muzzle devices wherever you buy them would make them more attractive to NJ buyers I guess.

[Dan 177]

14.5" barrel makes sense when you want to have a muzzle brake at the 16" minimum limit we are allowed. Otherwise you can go with a 16" barrel, and the perm-installed muzzle device would make it 17.5".. obviously.

 

This is why I'm really digging the 14.5" + permanent brake.

 

I agree that a complete DIY job, where you are installing your own barrel, gas block/tube, etc... one may want to reconsider putting on anything other than a full length gas system due to the potential gas system tuning that may need to be done (unless you know how to do it and are comfortable). If you are buying a complete middy upper from a company like Noveske or BCM, I'm willing to bet they have these puppies tuned to be as near-trouble free as full length systems.

[Kuryakin 1]

14.5" barrel makes sense when you want to have a muzzle brake at the 16" minimum limit we are allowed. Otherwise you can go with a 16" barrel, and the perm-installed muzzle device would make it 17.5".. obviously.

 

This is why I'm really digging the 14.5" + permanent brake.

 

I agree that a complete DIY job, where you are installing your own barrel, gas block/tube, etc... one may want to reconsider putting on anything other than a full length gas system due to the potential gas system tuning that may need to be done (unless you know how to do it and are comfortable). If you are buying a complete middy upper from a company like Noveske or BCM, I'm willing to bet they have these puppies tuned to be as near-trouble free as full length systems.

 

 

I decided that I will build the first upper with a 16" mid-length and pinned brake.

[tuktuk 16]

I decided that I will build the first upper with a 16" mid-length and pinned brake.

 

Good choice!!! That's wat I have

[tuktuk 16]

I decided that I will build the first upper with a 16" mid-length and pinned brake.

 

Good choice!!! That's wat I have