RecessedFilter 222 Posted June 6, 2011 In short, the youtuber video recorded a gun shop employee going over the safety intro for a first-time handgun purchase of a Sigma 9mm. If you fast forward to the end, the employee tells him to never take apart the pistol, for cleaning or anything else because it 'loosens the gun up'. I find it hilarious how the employee even tells him he shot matches and he never disassembled it, just ran patches down the bore. Hahaha. Has anyone ever been told this, be it by a gun shop employee or anther shooter? I have never heard of that type of advice before, and sounds ludicrous to me. I can't say I have been into guns for 20+ years but for the past 5yrs I have and have probably stripped each of my guns over 50+ times and they have seemed to shoot better with age, or maybe it's just me Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DevsAdvocate 112 Posted June 6, 2011 In short, the youtuber video recorded a gun shop employee going over the safety intro for a first-time handgun purchase of a Sigma 9mm. If you fast forward to the end, the employee tells him to never take apart the pistol, for cleaning or anything else because it 'loosens the gun up'. I find it hilarious how the employee even tells him he shot matches and he never disassembled it, just ran patches down the bore. Hahaha. Has anyone ever been told this, be it by a gun shop employee or anther shooter? I have never heard of that type of advice before, and sounds ludicrous to me. I can't say I have been into guns for 20+ years but for the past 5yrs I have and have probably stripped each of my guns over 50+ times and they have seemed to shoot better with age, or maybe it's just me I usually don't disassemble my handguns unless I'm doing a mod to them. Heck, even 1911s will run dirty if properly lubed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bulpup 98 Posted June 6, 2011 .. the employee tells him to never take apart the pistol, for cleaning or anything else because it 'loosens the gun up'. I find it hilarious how the employee even tells him he shot matches and he never disassembled it, just ran patches down the bore. Hahaha. Must be a Mac user. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maksim 1,504 Posted June 6, 2011 Andres, I dont believe we are hearing the same thing. He never stated to "never take the gun apart". Then we have to qualify just a field strip, or complete breakdown of the gun. S&W manual tells you how to field strip it and to clean it every few times. Detail strip? eh, for most people, probably not. (ie, most people who shoot the gun for 500 rounds and it is old.) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RecessedFilter 222 Posted June 6, 2011 He might have never said 'never take the gun apart', but the buyer asks, "so I never need to take it apart..." and the employee replies "no", then after he finishes his sentence with '...after 10rounds or anything'. After that, the employee says 'please don't', referring to please don't take it apart. I agree that you rarely need to detail strip, or once a year if that, but stripping it to clean it and re-lube is almost necessary in my opinion. How else can you clean the inside of the slide, the rails [that the slide rides on], and other internals without taking it apart? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djg0770 481 Posted June 6, 2011 I agree with everyone about guns needing to be stripped to be cleaned. That said, some people should NEVER take apart their guns, just like some people should NEVER change their oil, or even look under the hood on their car. They're dangerous enough behind the steering wheel, under the hood would just scare the stuff out of me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malsua 1,422 Posted June 6, 2011 Every time I start taking something apart and it turns to scheisse, I'm like "@#$%, why did I not pay someone to do this!!!" Then after I puzzle it out, fix it and it's complete "Glad I didn't pay someone to do that". The cycle repeats all the time. Planning on doing the brakes on my WRX this weekend. I'm an ABS virgin. I've done hundreds of brake jobs...not once on an ABS car. Not that I think it makes any difference, it's just got me paranoid even though I'm just doing pads and rotors not going anywhere near the ABS or a flush/bleed/drain. heh. Something will strip out, not come off, come apart or seek to cause me endless grief so I'll be screaming and yelling and buying tools and then once it's all back together, I'll be happy again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GRIZ 3,369 Posted June 6, 2011 Field strip yes. Complete disassembly only when the gun is broken. A few years ago I had a 1911 I bought in 1975 rebuilt. how many times has it been apart before this? Not since it was assmebled at the factory. I can understand people want to see how things work but detail stripping on a regular basis is courting disaster. More guns are probably screwed up this way than saved. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan 177 Posted June 6, 2011 Every time I start taking something apart and it turns to scheisse, I'm like "@#$%, why did I not pay someone to do this!!!" Then after I puzzle it out, fix it and it's complete "Glad I didn't pay someone to do that". The cycle repeats all the time. Planning on doing the brakes on my WRX this weekend. I'm an ABS virgin. I've done hundreds of brake jobs...not once on an ABS car. Not that I think it makes any difference, it's just got me paranoid even though I'm just doing pads and rotors not going anywhere near the ABS or a flush/bleed/drain. heh. Something will strip out, not come off, come apart or seek to cause me endless grief so I'll be screaming and yelling and buying tools and then once it's all back together, I'll be happy again. Off topic: I have an 01 WRX wagon with ABS. I've done the brakes twice now (just recently in fact). I haven't done the rears, as they always last much longer, they were only changed once and that time I paid a shop b/c I was lazy. Very easy, no different than any other car. Two bolts off comes the caliper. There is nothing fancy that has to be done differently. On topic: I'm assuming a field strip is not the same as "Taking it apart" as in the trigger system, pins, etc... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RecessedFilter 222 Posted June 6, 2011 I consider a field strip/quick disassembly as just a basic takedown -slide, spring, barrel, takedown pin, and whatnot. Anything else beyond that (trigger system, pins, etc) would be a complete/detailed strip. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djg0770 481 Posted June 6, 2011 Mark - let me know if you need a caliper compressor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malsua 1,422 Posted June 6, 2011 Mark - let me know if you need a caliper compressor. I've always used a C-clamp and the old pad to compress the piston. I've always wanted the right tool though. heh. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan 177 Posted June 6, 2011 I've always used a C-clamp and the old pad to compress the piston. I've always wanted the right tool though. heh. I use C-clamps also. Not eloquent, but gets the job done when you only do it once every few years. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KpdPipes 388 Posted June 7, 2011 Cant tell you how many times someone has come to me with a bagful of parts, pins and Sprigns and says "Could you help me put this back together??" IMO the worst were the HK P-7 pistols...those things were Spring launchers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt6669 71 Posted June 7, 2011 heh you guys are crazy, take a big flat head screwdriver and before you take anything apart, stick the screwdriver in that hole in the caliper and the pad and compress the caliper and viola no need to use c-clamps or anything. It's already done for you. Just make sure you really compress them because obviously the new pads are going to be thicker than the worn down ones. Mark you need help with the WRX give me a ring and I'll swing by. The process is no different as you've done before so you shouldn't have any problem. M Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lunker 274 Posted June 7, 2011 heh you guys are crazy, take a big flat head screwdriver and before you take anything apart, stick the screwdriver in that hole in the caliper and the pad and compress the caliper and viola no need to use c-clamps or anything. It's already done for you. Just make sure you really compress them because obviously the new pads are going to be thicker than the worn down ones. Mark you need help with the WRX give me a ring and I'll swing by. The process is no different as you've done before so you shouldn't have any problem. M +1. I was thinking that I am some kind of crappy ghetto mechanic for doing that. Glad to see there is at least another one out there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malsua 1,422 Posted June 7, 2011 heh you guys are crazy, take a big flat head screwdriver and before you take anything apart, stick the screwdriver in that hole in the caliper and the pad and compress the caliper and viola no need to use c-clamps or anything. It's already done for you. Just make sure you really compress them because obviously the new pads are going to be thicker than the worn down ones. Mark you need help with the WRX give me a ring and I'll swing by. The process is no different as you've done before so you shouldn't have any problem. M I don't figure it will be a problem. I did brake jobs to pay for race car parts back in the day. I'm quite familiar with it. Helped pay for my college to. At one point I was so stacked up I did 10 over one weekend and bought my 3:73 posi rear with the cash. Here in NJ I only ever did my 92 Honda and my 90GMC...never did them on the AX the WRX or the new Honda. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Malsua 1,422 Posted June 7, 2011 heh you guys are crazy, take a big flat head screwdriver and before you take anything apart, stick the screwdriver in that hole in the caliper and the pad and compress the caliper M Well, you can do it that way, the issue is that by not applying even pressure while returning the caliper piston it can score the inside wall of the caliper leading to a leak, a tear in the boot, a stuck piston or something else bad. Furthermore, I like to crack the bleeder as I'm twisting the Clamp. If you just push the caliper back in without holding force it will come back out a little bit. With the bleeder open this can introduce air into the caliper reservoir. You should always try to get the old fluid out every brake change. It's hygroscopic and as water gets into the system, it will boil in the calipers leading to a squishy peddle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bulpup 98 Posted June 7, 2011 heh you guys are crazy, take a big flat head screwdriver and before you take anything apart, stick the screwdriver in that hole in the caliper and the pad and compress the caliper and viola no need to use c-clamps or anything. It's already done for you. Just make sure you really compress them because obviously the new pads are going to be thicker than the worn down ones. Mark you need help with the WRX give me a ring and I'll swing by. The process is no different as you've done before so you shouldn't have any problem. M Yeesh. I have a Chiltons that advises that that is exactly what not to do> Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt6669 71 Posted June 7, 2011 I've been doing it for years, and the people who have taught me have been doing it for years and so on and so forth. I've never had a leaking caliper or nothing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djg0770 481 Posted June 7, 2011 I've been doing it for years, and the people who have taught me have been doing it for years and so on and so forth. I've never had a leaking caliper or nothing. My luck, I would do it ONCE that way and the whole system would be FUBAR. Thanks, I'll take my purpose built tool and not F up my calipers, boots or bores. Yes, men of yore pounded nails with just a hammer too. I'll take my pneumatic nailer and screw gun any day over "Old School". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon 264 Posted June 7, 2011 The tool is maybe $15. For how easy it makes brake changes, it's a no-brainer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old School 611 Posted June 7, 2011 +1. I was thinking that I am some kind of crappy ghetto mechanic for doing that. Glad to see there is at least another one out there. And who says Matt IS NOT a crappy ghetto mechanic? And a Mosin Mangler too!!!!!! We'll just call him "Triple M" Mosin Mangler Matt Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray Ray 3,566 Posted June 8, 2011 How did this topic go from crappy Sigma's to changing brakes on a WRX dirt bike to Matt's poor rifle selections? Amazing What's next, what did you have for lunch today? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon 264 Posted June 8, 2011 How did this topic go from crappy Sigma's to changing brakes on a WRX dirt bike to Matt's poor rifle selections? Amazing What's next, what did you have for lunch today? Turkey and provolone yesterday. Bowties with creamy pesto today. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pizza Bob 1,488 Posted June 8, 2011 ...to changing brakes on a WRX dirt bike Ray, you are wrong. (WRX is a Subaru on steroids - WRX STI is outrageous) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt6669 71 Posted June 8, 2011 Specific tools for specific jobs are great when it makes sense. In this case, I'm sticking to my opinion in it doesn't make sense. 2 seconds and you have depressed calipers with no ill affects. And Frankie when I'm done with the Mangled Mosin build, we'll take it out and put it up against your AR and we'll see what turns out better Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tony357 386 Posted June 8, 2011 heh you guys are crazy, take a big flat head screwdriver and before you take anything apart, stick the screwdriver in that hole in the caliper and the pad and compress the caliper and viola no need to use c-clamps or anything. It's already done for you. Just make sure you really compress them because obviously the new pads are going to be thicker than the worn down ones. Mark you need help with the WRX give me a ring and I'll swing by. The process is no different as you've done before so you shouldn't have any problem. M What if the caliper screws back in, your going to be their a long time with that screw driver...you need to know what you are working on 1st.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matt6669 71 Posted June 8, 2011 What if the caliper screws back in, your going to be their a long time with that screw driver...you need to know what you are working on 1st.. right like my G6 the rear calipers screw in and don't depress. Obvi a screwdriver won't work in that situation. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djg0770 481 Posted June 8, 2011 right like my G6 the rear calipers screw in and don't depress. Obvi a screwdriver won't work in that situation. Oh wait - MY TOOL DOES SCREW THE CALIPER IN... Again - right tool right job, wrong tool matt job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites