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Light strikes with revolver in D/A ??

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This has happened at least once each time I used my S&W Model 60 Pro series in DA . Basically , it seems the hammer does not hit as hard , bullet does not go boom . When it is about to happen , I know it because something feels different as I pull..best way to describe it is the hammer releases and goes forward sooner than it would if it was going to be a successful pull. Never happens in single action , obviously.

 

It is a new gun , been used about 4 times , no trigger mods or anything.

 

Ideas? And , like , how dangerous is that? Should I just cock the hammer and try and shoot it again?

 

After this happens I point the gun downrange for 30 seconds full to be safe , then when I open the chamber to check it out , it is just sitting there .

 

Ideas ? Suggestions?

 

Thanks:)

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Common occurrence on S&W revolvers, especially in double action because the hammer does not draw as far back as in single action.

Take a screwdriver and remove the grips. The grip screws go through each grip. If you have Hogue rubber grips, the screw is on the base of the grip frame. You will see a small screw that goes through the front of the grip frame. The end of it pushes into a metal band. This is the hammer spring. By tightening the screw, you increase hammer force, eliminating light strikes. It also increases trigger pull weight. This screw often works its way loose. Sometimes, armchair gunsmiths loosen it for a lighter trigger pull. They are forced to use soft primers.

Consider using some blue loctite to keep the screw in place.

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It is a good idea to keep it pointed down range after striking before you open/advance to the next shot, etc. You could have an issue with your new gun, but consider the following. Make sure that the revolver is clean and that the rounds are seated properly in the cylinder before shooting, and make sure that you are using the pad of your finger to pull the trigger straight back, and that you are not using your first joint (and pulling the trigger sideways) each time. You may not have your finger on the trigger properly during double action, especially if the force necessary to pull the trigger hard for you to handle and/or if you are staging the trigger to compensate for the double-action trigger weight. If you are pulling it sideways due to your finger placement, and using the additional leverage at the first joint to assist you, the hammer may not be going back all the way while shooting double action because it may be binding slightly. And, if the rounds are not properly seated, you may be losing strike power because some of the force is being lost pushing the individual round further into the cylinder to seat it properly, instead of that hard, fast strike needed to activate the primer. This seating problem could also be caused by a specific dirty cylinder that isn't allowing rounds to seat properly. Are you having rounds unfired from the same cylinder each time around? There could also be slightly different tolerances in each of the cylinders. If the specs of the cylinder are within spec, but at the end of that spec, and if the tolerances of the ammunition are at the opposite end of their spec. there could be a little slop. Have you tried different ammo? Make sure you clean the back of the cylinder well.

 

See if you still have the problem if clean, all properly seated, and if you have your trigger finger in the right spot. Systematically test this with different ammunition, firing single action, etc..

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This has happened at least once each time I used my S&W Model 60 Pro series in DA . Basically , it seems the hammer does not hit as hard , bullet does not go boom . When it is about to happen , I know it because something feels different as I pull..best way to describe it is the hammer releases and goes forward sooner than it would if it was going to be a successful pull. Never happens in single action , obviously.

 

It is a new gun , been used about 4 times , no trigger mods or anything.

 

Ideas? And , like , how dangerous is that? Should I just cock the hammer and try and shoot it again?

 

After this happens I point the gun downrange for 30 seconds full to be safe , then when I open the chamber to check it out , it is just sitting there .

 

Ideas ? Suggestions?

 

Thanks:)

 

You should have gotten a Ruger :)!

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lol one of my guns one of these days will be a Ruger revolver

 

I am reluctant to take anything apart on this gun since it is kind of brand new , would it void the warranty ?

 

I was wondering if it could be the way I am pulling as Patriot Oak suggested. It only happens after I have done maybe 15 or 20 rounds in DA and am maybe not pulling as smoothly. Could that be causing it ? Only my index finger pad is on the trigger. I have a short trigger finger . Couldn't wrap it to the 2nd knuckle if I tried :) But , I may be pulling it way slower as I get tired with DA pulling?

 

After it happened yesterday I stopped shooting in DA and proceeded to shoot 50 rounds of .38 and 20 rounds of .357 magnums through it without a hitch in SA . I'm shooting American Eagle ammo .

 

On a side note , I should probably not say to anyone else that it is comfortable for a woman to shoot magnums out of it. I have a friend who is not too happy with me right now lol I don't know , I did not think it was THAT bad ..just a little more boom than the .38s ((shrugs))

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Take a screwdriver and remove the grips. The grip screws go through each grip. If you have Hogue rubber grips, the screw is on the base of the grip frame. You will see a small screw that goes through the front of the grip frame. The end of it pushes into a metal band. This is the hammer spring. By tightening the screw, you increase hammer force, eliminating light strikes. It also increases trigger pull weight.

 

Uh, no. J-frames use coil mainsprings, not the leaf mainsprings of the K, L, N & X frames, and therefore there is no strain screw. Something is amiss and you should call S&W customer service. They will send a call tag.

 

Sorry this happened.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

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Thanks Bob , I was just sending you an email :)

 

So , you think I should send it in , or do you think it could be because I'm struggling to pull the trigger in DA once I get tired? I was thinking of having Pete send a bunch down the range Tuesday night with it , see if it happens to him as well.

 

Opinion?

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Uh, no. J-frames use coil mainsprings, not the leaf mainsprings of the K, L, N & X frames, and therefore there is no strain screw. Something is amiss and you should call S&W customer service. They will send a call tag.

 

Sorry this happened.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

 

Thanks Bob. I forgot that not everyone has K and N frames. :)

 

To IrishPete'sWife, good luck. Sorry to have pushed you in the wrong direction. The same exact thing happened on my Model 28-2 (an N frame), and I fixed it how I described. Call Smith and they will make it right.

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No worries!

 

Good thing I pick up a new gun in 11 days :) My 1911 .45 needs to go to the gunsmith too. It ejects , with force , directly into my forehead and eye protection whenever I shoot it properly ..i.e when I do not ride the recoil. I wind up with a bunch of lead semicircles on my forehead and I find myself flinching..not because of recoil anticipation but because of full on frontal shell casing assault .

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