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Thinking of adding .357 revolver, any recommendations?

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After picking up a 92FS I have one purchase permit left and was thinking that if I do use it I would like a revolver. I would lean towards a .357 as ammo price will be a consideration for me and I like the idea of being able to use .38 special as well. I was hoping some of you guys would have some particular model recommendations for me. My criteria would be:

 

.357 revolver that also takes .38 special

I would prefer a 4" barrel maybe more but not less - no intent, or license, to carry out of state

used for home defense and occasional range trips

well made, reliable gun

lean towards chrome but not set in stone by any means

I would prefer to get this one used with the hopes of getting a better gun for my money

the more rounds the better, but if it's a GOOD 5 round gun it's reliability matters more to me than capacity.

 

As I would probably be looking used I would like to keep it to a limit of $400. Are there good options for what I want out there in this price range or would I be sacrificing quality for price? I wouldn't want to do that with any gun I purchase. Any shops in NJ in particular with a good selection of used revolvers? Thanks for any suggestions.

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I believe most would steer you to the S&W 686 .357 which commonly comes in a 6 shot, 4 inch barrel configuration with a satin steel frame. However good examples on the used market can run well above your $400.00 ceiling.

Ruger makes the GP100, another contender in the .357 but again usually in the $500.00+ range on the used market.

Then there's the Taurus line, which some either love or hate but offers a reasonably priced revolver with a lifetime warranty that is more in line with you desired price point.I own a model 605 .357 steel with a 3 inch barrel as my primary HD weapon.

There are real revolver nuts on this board that will offer quite a bit more advice and expertise but I personally would bite the bullet, as it were, and find a low round count S&W 686. You won't be sorry.

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I don't know that I have ever seen a chrome revolver. I think you mean stainless? They maybe out there but I haven't seen them. Your limit of $400 is pushing it. I think the only revolver that I have seen at that range is a Taurus. I am not that famillar with Taurus, When I think revolvers I think S&W then Ruger a distant second. I know one Taurus that is around $400 is the model 66 in .357. I would save some more money and look for a S&W 686 and if ammo is a big concern forget the .357 and get a 617 .22 10 round.

 

All .357 revolvers will shoot .38 and I don't know of a 5 round 4in barreled revolver. I know Ruger makes a 3in barreled 5 rounder you maybe able to find that in your price range used. You may also be able to find a used GP-100 in your price range.

 

Save your money and buy a Smith& Wesson. I prefer Smith over any other revolver manufacturer!! Just my opinion for what is worth.

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Probably means nickel. I used to have a 4" Nickel Colt Python...

 

I don't know that I have ever seen a chrome revolver. I think you mean stainless? They maybe out there but I haven't seen them. Your limit of $400 is pushing it. I think the only revolver that I have seen at that range is a Taurus. I am not that famillar with Taurus, When I think revolvers I think S&W then Ruger a distant second. I know one Taurus that is around $400 is the model 66 in .357. I would save some more money and look for a S&W 686 and if ammo is a big concern forget the .357 and get a 617 .22 10 round.

 

All .357 revolvers will shoot .38 and I don't know of a 5 round 4in barreled revolver. I know Ruger makes a 3in barreled 5 rounder you maybe able to find that in your price range used. You may also be able to find a used GP-100 in your price range.

 

Save your money and buy a Smith& Wesson. I prefer Smith over any other revolver manufacturer!! Just my opinion for what is worth.

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Someone is selling a 4 inch GP-100 SS in the marketplace right now and it's only $425..cant go wrong with a GP-100

Damn. I didn't see that one.Ira just put up a Ruger SP101 and a super six this morning around the OP's price range. Both .38s but worth a look.

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I would look for a gp100 or the 686. The 686 has a better trigger but the gp100 is a little heavier and when shooting hot loads is more forgiving.

 

In the range your looking, you'll only find a gp100. I just sold a excellent example for 415. You will find that the 686's are harder to cone by in your range or they are a lil beat up.

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I've been a Wheelgunner since I started in this hobby over 40 years ago. Dad bought us kids a .22 LR S&W with 4" barrel as a trainer!

 

A 4" S&W Combat .357 in either a "K" series frame OR a "L" series frame will fill the bill for you. A Safe Queen Model 19 (blue) or Model 66 (Stainless) from 20 or more years ago will still last a lifetime, especially if you give it a regular diet of .38's instead of full-house .357 magnums. The "L" series frame (Model 686 in stainless, 586 in blue) is a little "beefier" and can take the punishment of steady diet of .357's (which, by-the-way, hardly ANYBODY shoots). Either gun can come with a red ramp front sight, white outline notch rear sight, target grips, target hammer, and target trigger. From a Rest either of these guns can do groups of just over an inch at 25 yards!

 

From a practical standpoint, a revolver for Home Defense is a wonderful tool! No buttons or switches to push in the middle of the night, just pull the trigger and it goes BANG! It can sit for decades and when called upon will function flawlessly! The first gun I bought was my Model 19 in 4" barrel way back in '77, and it's still on duty as I type this, loaded with Federal Hydro-Shocks .38 Spl+P's.

 

Using a 4" Combat in single-action mode will make you a better shooter and you'll probably be able to hit better with IT than your semi-auto! At distances you wouldn't expect (50 yards+)!

 

Buying a wheelgun is a good decision, and there are lots of used ones to pick from. Bring along a friend that knows wheelguns to check it out prior to purchasing.

 

Enjoy!

 

Dave

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Why dont you go for something .38 only? They are alot cheaper because most people, like yourself, want a .357. But, alot of the times due to recoil and cost, people never shoot .357 except for once in a blue moon.

 

You can pick up a used S&W model 14 or 15 in the $400 range. I got my 1968 14-3 virtually unfired in brand new perfect condition for $399. It has target stocks, target trigger, target hammer, target barrel and target sights. In addition to that it has all forged internals. no lock, and a pinned barrel. Neither the 686 or GP100 have any of those traits.

 

If you decide that you absolutely HAVE to have a either a GP100 or 686, I have the following advice.

The S&W is a superior gun. It has a vastly superior trigger along with better fit & finish. Also, S&W has unparalelled customer service. It is absolutely unbeatable, not that you would need it or anything.

 

The GP100 is often cited as being stronger. There is nothing backing it up other than speculation, but even if its true, the 686 is not weak. Buying a gun just because its stronger...well, if thats all you care about then you should get a S&W 500 and shoot .38 powered loads out of it, because its "stronger" than the 686 and GP100.

 

Here is my 14-3, on the bottom of course.

DSC00857.jpg

K38.jpg

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Yea, a bit... Still have my 6" Blue Python... A kid was coming out of the acadamy and loved it in the worse way. We switched to semi, so I sold it to him. There are a few I miss that I've sold over the years.

 

Are you kicking yourself in the a** for selling that now? I know I would be!!!!!

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Thank you for all the great replies. It seems like I can't go wrong with a Smith and Wesson and I was thinking that was the case. And I did mean stainless, I used the wrong term when I said chrome. Still new to this. While I have heard good things about Taurus I have also heard bad things. It sounds like the quality can be hit or miss and I would't want to take a chance. I will certainly consider the Ruger GP100 but probably focus more on looking at the S&W's. I would prefer a .357 over a .38 but I will not overlook the .38's. On the S&W site I see the 686 which was mentioned a few times. I also looked at the Model 64 and Model 15. All three have a 4" barrel which is at the top of my list for what I want. Any ideas what the cost difference would be between these three on the used market? Any place that rents them? If $400 is too much of a stretch I would just assume extend my permit 90 days and save up more. Also, is there much of a difference in stopping power between a .38 spl and .357? Enough to justify the extra cost of a .357 over a .38?

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A "Normal" .38 Special has no comparison to a .357 Magnum. You can also find +P .38 Special for more oomph. Get some .38 Special Wad Cutters and they feel a tad bit more than a .22LR....

 

Follow-up shots with a .38 are much easier than a .357, especially with a short barrel like you are looking for. Gotta practice. The Model 15's are harder to find than the Model 64 and the 686's are all-over the place.

 

I have a Model 65 which is .38 Special only and hated it. I don't liked what they consider sights on them, not good for +40 eyes. Is a good close-up gun though, sub 15 yards and I have no problems just pointing and shooting. Trying to hit stuff at 25 yards though, no good for me. I put a red dot on it.

 

I like the longer guns myself, I have a 6" 686 and a 8 3/8" 686. Even my Model 15 is a 6".

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A "Normal" .38 Special has no comparison to a .357 Magnum. You can also find +P .38 Special for more oomph. Get some .38 Special Wad Cutters and they feel a tad bit more than a .22LR....

 

Follow-up shots with a .38 are much easier than a .357, especially with a short barrel like you are looking for. Gotta practice. The Model 15's are harder to find than the Model 64 and the 686's are all-over the place.

 

I have a Model 65 which is .38 Special only and hated it. I don't liked what they consider sights on them, not good for +40 eyes. Is a good close-up gun though, sub 15 yards and I have no problems just pointing and shooting. Trying to hit stuff at 25 yards though, no good for me. I put a red dot on it.

 

I like the longer guns myself, I have a 6" 686 and a 8 3/8" 686. Even my Model 15 is a 6".

Mike, you wouldn't happen to have a model 27 in your collection would you?

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A "Normal" .38 Special has no comparison to a .357 Magnum. You can also find +P .38 Special for more oomph. Get some .38 Special Wad Cutters and they feel a tad bit more than a .22LR....

 

Follow-up shots with a .38 are much easier than a .357, especially with a short barrel like you are looking for. Gotta practice. The Model 15's are harder to find than the Model 64 and the 686's are all-over the place.

 

I have a Model 65 which is .38 Special only and hated it. I don't liked what they consider sights on them, not good for +40 eyes. Is a good close-up gun though, sub 15 yards and I have no problems just pointing and shooting. Trying to hit stuff at 25 yards though, no good for me. I put a red dot on it.

 

I like the longer guns myself, I have a 6" 686 and a 8 3/8" 686. Even my Model 15 is a 6".

As the primary purpose for this gun will be home defense I am also interested in how the .38 compares to a 9mm. I have a 92FS and if the .38 is a step down or a lateral move in oomph I would cross it off. The .357's ability to fire .38 would be a good plus for range time as I have found I like to go through rounds, but if I had a .357 I would keep it ready with that. If the .38 was a good step up I would still consider it.

 

This purchase is one I feel I can take my time with. While I was quick to buy my Beretta (once I got my permit, first gun) it wasn't done without alot of research and trying it, and others, out. I don't feel as though I HAVE to use my permit. I can always apply for another before this one runs out. I understand that $400 probably won't get me what I want so saving and waiting is probably the way to go. That 686 is a beautiful gun. The reason I say 4" inches is that I definitely don't want anything less. Its not for carry and I want good accuracy to atleast 25 yrds. A longer barrel isn't out of the question and for all I know I would like that better. I haven't actually fired a .357 or .38 yet. I would be sure to try some before deciding on a purchase but I was just looking for good recommendations for where to start. I definitely got some good suggestions that helped me adjust my ideas of what I want so far.

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Heritage Firearms Guild in Rahway has a Colt Python in nickel in the case right now for $1795.00

 

I would love to have that. I hate the pistol permit process!! The one thing that NJ's pistol permit system is good for is saving me money on all the impulse buys that I would make. So thanks NJ for keeping my money in my pocket and out of the LGS. I wouldn't even ask a shop to hold it as it will take at least 6 months. SORRY I don't want to get into a bitchfest on our utterly stupid gun laws!! in this thread!!

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.38 special +p jhp is a proven manstopper in a compact package. Neither 38 or 9mm hold a candle in stopping power to .357 (98% one shot stop)

 

However deafening report, blinding muzzle flash and mule kick recoil can make .357 tough for indoor contact. Some people choose to load their .357 revolvers with .38 +p for that reason.

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If you keep an eye on gunbroker and if you have a good network of ffl's you can find a 357 S&W (or Colt) revolver for that price range, you just have to wait a bit - and you may have to put up with some surface condition issues.

 

Remember though that if you like stainless, a lot of oopses can buff out of stainless...

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