n4p226r 105 Posted July 29, 2012 there seems to be a few different ways of doing this. assuming you have a low profile block, how far towards the end of the barrel do you like your rail to go. i was considering a 13.5" rail on a 14.5" barrel with pinned bc1.5 but not sure. so what do you use, and post pictures if you can! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
raz-0 1,259 Posted July 29, 2012 I like dissipator like setups. 13.x" tubes on 16" is the right thing IMO. For a 14.5" I'd probably call the 11-12" normal length rifle tubes max. You want enough to brave all the way up, but not so much that if you do a thumb on top wrap and point with the index finger grip you wind up with your finger on catching muzzle blast. Depending on your muzzle device it can cause you harm. I have long arms, big hands and long fingers. Also, if your grip and index doesn't use the whole tube, why add the weight? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alowerlevel 77 Posted July 29, 2012 IMHO 13" rails look perfect on 14.5" guns. Like the ones in the first post here http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/498251_Everyone_loves_triplets__Post_up_your_own_TRX_equipt_ARandapos_s_if_you_got_em_.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
raz-0 1,259 Posted July 29, 2012 IMHO 13" rails look perfect on 14.5" guns. Like the ones in the first post here http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/498251_Everyone_loves_triplets__Post_up_your_own_TRX_equipt_ARandapos_s_if_you_got_em_.html There's look, and there's function. I like the looks of 15" tubes on a 16", but the function of the 13" is hard to beat, and it still looks good. With a 14.5" you bring everything 1.5" closer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TK421 2 Posted July 30, 2012 Since this is NJ and you have to pin and weld the comp no matter what I would suggest a 14.7" with a standard A2 length comp which brings the overall length to 16.1". I just ordered a 14.7" CMMG M4 barrel for my next build which will have a 12.5" Daniel Defense RIS II and an EGW A2 comp pinned and welded. The goal is to build a NJ legal version of this except the barrel will be .2" longer: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alowerlevel 77 Posted July 30, 2012 There's look, and there's function. I like the looks of 15" tubes on a 16", but the function of the 13" is hard to beat, and it still looks good. With a 14.5" you bring everything 1.5" closer. True but while I like the look, I also like the function, Im 6'5 so a 13" rail lets me get my hand out to where Im comfortable. The weight difference is minimal, a 13" troy trx extreme rail only weighs 1.5oz more than the same 11" rail. https://spreadsheets...2DQ&output=html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alowerlevel 77 Posted July 30, 2012 double tap Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cale 4 Posted August 1, 2012 For comparison, my 14.5" + pinned Nordic comp with a 13.8" Troy MRF Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
raz-0 1,259 Posted August 2, 2012 True but while I like the look, I also like the function, Im 6'5 so a 13" rail lets me get my hand out to where Im comfortable. The weight difference is minimal, a 13" troy trx extreme rail only weighs 1.5oz more than the same 11" rail. https://spreadsheets...2DQ&output=html In general, don't trust the weights in that chart. A lot of them are off. As for the Troy, I like them, but they are not the most rigid. It's a trade off for the weight, and with other handguards, it'll cost you more in weight. I'm about 6'6" and like the 13" tube. However a 12" rifle length is very workable, and depending on the design of the muzzle device, is the length I'd go with for a 14.5. I like my fingers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
raz-0 1,259 Posted August 2, 2012 For comparison, my 14.5" + pinned Nordic comp with a 13.8" Troy MRF Why is your front sight on backwards? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vlad G 345 Posted August 2, 2012 There is another issue to consider, where do you want your front sight? I really dislike front sights mounted on handguards. First, if your handguard is not perfectly aligned, neither is your front sight. Secondly, I've seen handguards move over time, and third the whole point of a free float handguard is that it takes the stress and pressure away from the barrel .. but guess what ... it does that by bending and moving a bit, screwing with your front sight. I've reached the conclusion that the right answer is a barrel mounted front sight, even if it isn't and actual gas block. I run a clamp on front sight in front of the handguard, even though the gas block is somewhere under it. It frees up space on top of the handguard where my thumb wants to be anyway, it isn't affected by handguard movement, and folded out of the way it kinda looks cool too. However to make this work, you need a handguard that is not THAT long, the front sight tower needs to fit somewhere on the barrel. On a 16" barrel a 12-13" handguard works on a 14.5 with pinned comp probably you need something in 11" range. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cale 4 Posted August 2, 2012 Why is your front sight on backwards? Oops. I was messing around with the rails the other day and guess I just didn't notice when I put them back on. Thanks for catching that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites