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MosinRob

rusty bore

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Every time i clean my guns after a range trip, a couple days later its all rusted. what the heck am I doing wrong? After shooting,I go home and mop with warm water and little soap. then cva foaming bore cleaner, then froglube. Any idea's? rusting cant be good. Heres a pic, i cleaned this gun two days ago. thanks guys

2012-09-10_23-07-03_707.jpg

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As far as I know frog lube is water based. Might be part of your problem.

 

According to their info

 

"CONTAINS NO PETROLEUM OR WATER."

 

How and where are you storing your guns? is it damp or humid? does it happen on all guns that your use Froglube on or just the ones that you clean with water first?

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Every time i clean my guns after a range trip, a couple days later its all rusted. what the heck am I doing wrong? After shooting,I go home and mop with warm water and little soap. then cva foaming bore cleaner, then froglube. Any idea's? rusting cant be good. Heres a pic, i cleaned this gun two days ago. thanks guys

2012-09-10_23-07-03_707.jpg

Rob,

 

As others have said, the Frog Lube may be water-based. I'd LOSE IT!

 

Here's what I do, the LONG version:

 

CLEANING PROCEDURE:

 

Take the barrel of of the stock. Gather all of the materials you'll need to clean with and find a Deep Sink if possible, because it goes quicker. Rinse breech end in running hot water, and do an initial scrub with a used toothbrush all around the snail and nipple. If you have a problem with flash rust from a high iron content in your water supply, make sure to use only warm water and be sure to follow procedures carefully using foaming cleaner, as outlined below. Remember to try to use a Patch Worm instead of a jag, as this allows twice as much patch material to be used, resulting in a more thorough cleaning IMHO! Remove nipple and place on a paper towel treated with foaming BP Cleaner (I use Butch's Black Powder Boreshine). Put barrel into Deep Sink and pour warm water into the muzzle till any fouling stops draining out of the snail. Using a coffee can or similar-sized device, insert breech into can with warm water running into it and using patches wet with foaming cleaner pump your Range Rod (with WORM attached) creating suction to thoroghly clean-out the entire snail and ignition pathway. Pump the Range Rod to draw cleaning fluid and water mixture all of the way up towards the muzzle. Do this until water in coffee can turns clear/clean. Check your patches to ascertain if any crud is still in the bore. If patches are relatively clean, dry-patch the barrel with your Range Rod. Wipe the entire outside surface of the barrel to dry it thoroughly, taking special care to make sure that no black powder fouling remains anywhere around the nipple area. Use a small screwdriver and a paper towel wet with foaming bore cleaner (I use Butch's Black Powder Boreshine) to remove any remnents of fouling, then wipe-down the nipple, using your fingernail on the nipple's threads and any surface that has fouling. Dry nipple and check for debris inside nipple and blow-out if necessary. Use a drop of oil on the nipple threads and re-install nipple by hand, using nipple wrench only to snug-up lightly.

 

Thoroughly clean the lock with Butch's Black Powder Boreshine and paper towels while it is still inside the stock. Use folded paper toweling treated with foaming cleaner to remove all surface fouling around the hammer, and dig into the hammer with a small screwdriver and paper towel soaked in BP Cleaner to remove all fouling. Do a wipe-down around the lock and where any BP fouling spray has invaded. Dry with a paper towel and place to the side.

 

RUST PREVENTION PROCEDURE:

 

Using Birchwood Casey's Barricade Oil soak a couple patches and in addition to this, squirt some Barricade directly into the bore. Using a Patch Worm push soaked patches all of the way down to the breech, then twist Range Rod to engage patches (3 full turns usually does the trick). Do this in the Deep Sink as Barricade will spray out of the nipple when you do this. The Barricade will treat the entire ignition pathway and prevent everything form rusting. Remove Range Rod and use soaked patches to do a complete wipe-down of all of the exterior surfaces of the barrel. Then grab the stock and do a wipe-down of all metal surfaces using the same oil-soaked patches. Put a few drops of heavier oil onto the flange of the breech and re-install barrel into the stock. You're DONE!

 

STORAGE:

 

RIFLE GETS STORED MUZZLE-DOWN ON A PAPER TOWEL! Any excess oil not needed will simply drain out the muzzle onto the paper toweling instead of collecting inside the snail, thus insuring positive ignition at the next event. Simply use a dry patch (at the next Event) to wipe any excess oil from the bore, then snap a couple caps to thoroughly dry the flash channel and the entire ignition pathway. Load and shoot as normal.

 

I do this every time I clean my gun. NO RUST! Hope this helps!

 

Dave

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The only thing I've ever used to clean my ML's is dish soap and very warm water, immersing the breech and the removed nipple in a bucket of soapy water. After cleaning I use regular gun oil on all the metal parts, inside and out - never had a problem with rust.

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Thanks for the suggestions guys. Froglube worked great in all my other guns. Muzzleloaders, it seems to be failing very badly. Will not be using it again on them.

 

I don't use Frog Lube as a rust preventative, but I do find it very good at cleaning black powder crude that other stuff doesn't get.

 

For rust prevention on guns that are not in regular rotation, I use EezOx. Guns in regular rotation I use Ballistol.

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As all of you could probably deduce, I'm not a Bore Butter type of guy when it comes to storage! But it does come in handy for giving life back to partially dried-out wads and shooting patches!

 

If there is any way I can ever help anyone shoot real black, just give me a PM!

 

Dave

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Use Wonder Lube....been around forever..................and forget the junk advertising stuff.

After you make sure your Bbl. is clean and DRY......swab it out with Wonder Lube and you'll be good to go.

 

 

 

NRA Certified Instructor.....Muzzleloading Rifle, Pistol, Shotgun......this my 21st year.

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Use Wonder Lube....been around forever..................

 

What is this Wonder Lube stuff? I've seen that stuff around......can you use it as over ball lube in c&b's, or does it get runny and goopy like Bore Butter in the warm/hot months.

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Nope...............been using it in my Flintlocks..........rifles and smoothbores for over 20 yrs...........get it at Dixon's. Use it to lube patches, bbl.s, etc.

 

You'd probably want something little stiffer like a tallow - wax combo for an over the ball in a revolver anyway.

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Well I kicked the froglube to the curb. Even emailed them with the problem. They gave me the run around and even said some times there product is best used with additional oils or grease's. So im pretty pissed at that. But I went shooting on Thursday and put about 20 shots through her. Took her home and flushed her with water, then a little soap in a bucket of warm water. Mopped the bore till water and patch were clean. Then used the cva foaming bore cleaner for a hour. After the hour, used some ballistol and swabbed the bore. After that i sprayed some seafoam deep creep in(wd40 but better) and that's it. I cleaned the hammer and other parts as well. Took the barrel out today and looked down it. Shiny and no rust. Ran some patches and no rust as well. So I hope it stays. Dave, im going to try some of your stuff as soon as i get to the store. Thanks for the help guys.

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Well I kicked the froglube to the curb. Even emailed them with the problem. They gave me the run around and even said some times there product is best used with additional oils or grease's. So im pretty pissed at that. But I went shooting on Thursday and put about 20 shots through her. Took her home and flushed her with water, then a little soap in a bucket of warm water. Mopped the bore till water and patch were clean. Then used the cva foaming bore cleaner for a hour. After the hour, used some ballistol and swabbed the bore. After that i sprayed some seafoam deep creep in(wd40 but better) and that's it. I cleaned the hammer and other parts as well. Took the barrel out today and looked down it. Shiny and no rust. Ran some patches and no rust as well. So I hope it stays. Dave, im going to try some of your stuff as soon as i get to the store. Thanks for the help guys.

 

Rob,

 

If you can't find it, call Lyman in CT. as they are the distributor and will tell you who they sell it to local to you. Also--you can just call Greg Dixon and he'll ship it to you---they ship everything but powder and caps!

 

Sounds like you worked really hard to get rid of the rust. Incomplete cleaning from the previous owner is probably the original problem. If you clean the gun the way I wrote above, it takes about a half hour (or less when you get a "system" going) from start to finish. Remember to store muzzle-down no matter what you put in there, so it always goes BANG!

 

Dave

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