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How much 357 Mag can a J frame take?

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I heard the J Frames aren't really meant to take a lot of 357 mag.

If you shoot a lot through them they start to get loose over time.

 

For those of you with experience with revolvers, what do you think

the appx round count is with 357 mag before you start seeing this

type of wear and tear?

 

Question two: How many rounds can you take in a range session

of 357 mag in a small J Frame/Small snubby type revolver? I shot

a 686 and it was pretty rough, maybe I can take a little more now

as that was early when I first started shooting.

 

Is it not practical to practice a lot with 357 mag in a J Frame?

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Yes I've even heard in K frames it is rough on them. That's why I considered the 627 as it is an N frame and

probably can take 357 without an issue as I believe they use that frame for 44s.

 

One day I really do want a small snubby though. My thought is if you can't practice all that much with 357 mag

does it make more sense just to get one in 38/38+p? They are much cheaper.

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I have a J Frame Model 60 .357. 3" barrel. I always end a range session with 2 cylinders of .357s , so I don't forget what it feels like. It is a heavy enough little revolver..I would say the the magnums are manageable , but not "fun" after , say , those 10 rounds.

 

When I first got it I shot 50 rounds of .357 . I was bleeding from hammer bite and I could not button up the baby's onsies for a few days.

 

But , hey ..I'm a girl.

 

Now I also have a model 19 4" . Much much nicer for to shoot magnums . I only do 2 or 3 cylinders full of them each session though . My husband's 686..I really do not mind magnums at all out of it. Could shoot it all day in .357. 6" barrel.

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K and L frames are, from my understanding, the same size. J, K/L, N, X. It's a difference in the grip size or something.

 

C

 

You actually have it backwards. Grips on K/L frames are the same, while the firearm itself is bigger or smaller. Compare a K frame S&W model 10 to a 686 or comparable medium sized revolver like a Ruger GP100. There is a size difference.

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IMHO shooting .357's out of a J-frame that you plan on using a lot is not a good idea. Too much wear on both the gun AND your hands! What Sandy is doing is the way to go IF you plan on using .357's in it for HD. I have a Model 19 that I bought new in 1977, and right now as I type this it is in service standing-guard with Federal Hydra-Shock .38 Spl.+P rounds, which I feel is the perfect compromise between regular Spls and the blinding flash and recoil of .357's in a darkened engagement environment. This is the Wife's Go-To Gun, so since she doesn't practice as often as I'd like her to, I feel that magnums are a big No-No.

 

The Wife has been "trained" for 2 in the chest and 1 in the head technique, so I don't want that blinding flash hampering the outcome.....and since the 19 is a 6-shooter, she's good for a 2-Perp invasion (if need be) before she has to grab the 12 ga. (which she also knows how to use).

 

Dave

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IMHO shooting .357's out of a J-frame that you plan on using a lot is not a good idea. Too much wear on both the gun AND your hands! What Sandy is doing is the way to go IF you plan on using .357's in it for HD. I have a Model 19 that I bought new in 1977, and right now as I type this it is in service standing-guard with Federal Hydra-Shock .38 Spl.+P rounds, which I feel is the perfect compromise between regular Spls and the blinding flash and recoil of .357's in a darkened engagement environment. This is the Wife's Go-To Gun, so since she doesn't practice as often as I'd like her to, I feel that magnums are a big No-No.

 

Out of curiosity, have you had a chance to actually test out shooting it in darkness with the .38 Hydra-Shocks? It certainly stands to reason that it won't flash as much .357, but I'm just curious if it's still ultimately brighter than a semi auto [given addition of gases escaping around cylinder in addition to muzzle].

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