And yet one more generator thread.

[PeteF 1,044]

During the recent power outages, I ran my house on a portable generator using extension cords.

 

Definitely not the most optimum way to do it but it worked. I'm looking to install a manual transfer switch to connect the generator to house wiring. (Yes I understand about not back feeding the mains)

 

Does anyone here have a Portable generator (neutral bonded to ground) wired in to their house via a transfer switch?

 

If so what equipment did you use?

[djg0770 481]

I thought about several options:

 

1) Manual transfer switch kit

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200196674_200196674?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Generators-_-Generator%20Accessories-_-100022&ci_sku=100022&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}&gclid=CNGkgqOg3LMCFYKK4Aod8FcAWg

 

2) Generator interlock kit

http://www.interlockkit.com/

 

Ultimately, I (illegally?) back fed the entire panel temporarily with a 30amp two pole breaker and 10/3 NM wire. If I were to do it again, I would get a generator power inlet and an interlock if I were to stay with a portable generator. If I went to a whole house natural gas generator, I'd go for an automatic transfer switch with automatic generator start and weekly exercising.

[CMJeepster 2,777]

I've got a Husky/Subaru 5,000 Watt portable generator run through a Reliance transfer swith like this: http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-31406CRK-6-Circuit-Generator-Generators/dp/B000BQN4T2/ref=sr_1_3?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1353370965&sr=1-3 It's great to be able to power my well pump, sump pumps and two additional circuits in the house. I also ran an extension cord for my garage fridge.

[diamondd817 826]

Assuming your portable generator has a L14 30R 4-prong twist lock out.

 

-Install L14 30R twist lock inlet on house (reliance makes a nice one -- buy @ grainger)

-Run 10/3 romex to panel

-install 30a 240v 2pole breaker in panel (tie nuetral to nuetal bar, ground to ground bar)

 

-Connect L14 30R cable from generator to your L14 30R inlet

-Turn off "MAIN" service breaker

-Turn on your 30a 240v 2pole generator in breaker

 

If you forget to turn off your "Main", your generator will backfeed into the grid and your generator will trip almost instantly.

[NJKen 23]

Use and interlock device like posted in the second link on the second reply. Otherwise, do exactly like above. With the interlock device it is impossible to hurt anyone or anything. I have fixed more than a few generators that where accidentally exposed to line voltage. The interlock prevents this from happening.

Ken

[Dan 177]

Assuming your portable generator has a L14 30R 4-prong twist lock out.

 

-Install L14 30R twist lock inlet on house (reliable makes a nice one -- buy @ grainger)

-Run 10/3 romex to panel

-install 30a 240v 2pole breaker in panel (tie nuetral to nuetal bar, ground to ground bar)

 

-Connect L14 30R cable from generator to your L14 30R inlet

-Turn off "MAIN" service breaker

-Turn on your 30a 240v 2pole generator in breaker

 

If you forget to turn off your "Main", your generator will backfeed into the grid and your generator will trip almost instantly.

 

I'm building exactly this with the addition of the interlock kit in my panel, and installing a Reliance L14-30 gen inlet box on my exterior wall where I will have the generator. I want to be up to code with the interlock kit and wiring so in case there is an accident and they come looking for someone to blame, I can show them the interlock.

[BullzeyeNJ 104]

+1

 

This is what I have hooked up and it works great.

 

Assuming your portable generator has a L14 30R 4-prong twist lock out.

 

-Install L14 30R twist lock inlet on house (reliable makes a nice one -- buy @ grainger)

-Run 10/3 romex to panel

-install 30a 240v 2pole breaker in panel (tie nuetral to nuetal bar, ground to ground bar)

 

-Connect L14 30R cable from generator to your L14 30R inlet

-Turn off "MAIN" service breaker

-Turn on your 30a 240v 2pole generator in breaker

 

If you forget to turn off your "Main", your generator will backfeed into the grid and your generator will trip almost instantly.

[Tom-NJ2AS 31]

I did mine the same way. Only thing i will be adding is the interlok as it is legal just in case something did ever happen, my insurance company cannot say it was illegal. Transfer switches are nice, but you are limited to what you can run with those 6 and 10 breaker panels.

[T Bill 649]

Remember a 5000 watt generator with a 240V twist plug is really the same as two 20 amp circuits in your house. Not a lot of power here, just enough to keep vital things going. Load share is key to keeping things going. If you have a well, sump pump, refrigerator, freezer, furnance/boiler, 5500 watt generator will need to be monitored to make sure not to many things kicking in at the same time. On the 6 pole transfer switch, circuit A,B, and C are the same circuit and D, E, and F is the other, each group sharing that 20 amps total generated power.

[CMJeepster 2,777]

I only witnessed the engine governor kick in a few times with my setup. She ran like a champ the whole time!

[msg73 1]

For those of you with an interlock setup, did you have to get a permit and have it checked out by the electrical inspector? I'm hoping I can just install it without having to get my building dept involved...you know how that goes.

[djg0770 481]

For those of you with an interlock setup, did you have to get a permit and have it checked out by the electrical inspector? I'm hoping I can just install it without having to get my building dept involved...you know how that goes.

 

Any electrical change of this nature which would involve adding a breaker would require a permit.

[TheLugNutZ 21]

For those of you with an interlock setup, did you have to get a permit and have it checked out by the electrical inspector? I'm hoping I can just install it without having to get my building dept involved...you know how that goes.

 

well you are supposed to. with a little DIY know how, it doesnt seem very hard, but i havent done it myself yet..

[bry@n 195]

Mine is set up this way and I didn't do the permit an going to change from a 6 circuit switch to a 10-16 circuit switch. When that is done, I will apply for the permit.

[djg0770 481]

To clarify my last post:

 

§ 5:23-2.14 Construction permits--when required

 

(a) It shall be unlawful to construct, enlarge, repair, renovate, alter, reconstruct or demolish a structure, or change the use of a building or structure, or portion thereof, or to install or alter any equipment for which provision is made or the installation of which is regulated by this chapter without first filing an application with the construction official, or the appropriate subcode official where the construction involves only one subcode, in writing and obtaining the required permit therefor.

 

1. Notwithstanding any provision of (b) below to the contrary, a permit shall be required for any work to abate violations cited in a Notice of Violation and Order to Terminate (F213) issued after a certificate of occupancy has been issued.

 

2. A permit is required when undertaking a project involving lead abatement for which a lead abatement clearance certificate is required pursuant to N.J.A.C. 5:23-2.23(p).

 

(b) The following are exceptions from (a) above:

 

1. Ordinary maintenance as defined in N.J.A.C. 5:23-2.7 shall not require a permit or notice to the enforcing agency;

 

2. Minor work as defined by N.J.A.C. 5:23-2.17A shall require a permit. However, work may proceed, upon notice to the enforcing agency, before the permit is issued;

 

3. Emergency work not involving lead abatement, except that notice shall be given as soon thereafter as is practicable, and a permit shall be applied for not later than 72 hours thereafter.

 

4. Exceptions to permit requirements for temporary structures, tents, tensioned membrane structures, canopies, and greenhouses are as follows:

 

i. Temporary structures: A construction permit is not required for the erection, operation or maintenance of any temporary structures (excluding tents, tensioned membrane structures, canopies, and greenhouses) covering an area less than 120 square feet, including all connecting areas or spaces with a common means of egress or entrance and which remain in place for less than 180 days;

 

ii. Tents, tensioned membrane structures, and canopies: A construction permit is not required for tents, tensioned membrane structures, and canopies that meet all of the criteria in (b)4ii(1) through (5) below. Tents, tensioned membrane structures, and canopies meeting the following criteria shall be subject to the permitting requirements of the Uniform Fire Code (N.J.A.C. 5:70-2.7).

 

(1) The tent, tensioned membrane structure, or canopy is 140 feet or less in any dimension and 16,800 square feet or less in area whether it is one unit or is composed of multiple units;

 

(2) The tent, tensioned membrane structure, or canopy remains in place or will remain in place for fewer than 180 days;

 

(3) The tent, tensioned membrane structure, or canopy is used or occupied only between April 1 and November 30;

 

(4) The tent, tensioned membrane structure, or canopy does not have a permanent anchoring system or foundation; and

 

(5) The tent, tensioned membrane structure, or canopy does not contain platforms or bleachers greater than 11 feet in height.

 

iii. A temporary greenhouse, also called a "hoophouse" or "polyhouse," meeting the criteria stated in N.J.A.C. 5:23-3.2(d), shall not require a permit.

 

iv. Regardless of whether the tent, tensioned membrane structure, canopy, or greenhouse requires a permit, a permit shall be required for any electrical equipment, electrical wiring or mechanical equipment that would otherwise require a permit.

 

5. Gas utility company shall not be required to obtain a permit or give notice to the enforcing agency for replacement of interior gas utility company-owned metering (meter and related appurtenances) by exterior gas utility company owned-metering if the work is performed by qualified employees of the gas utility company.

 

6. A permit shall not be required for a sign that meets all of the following conditions; provided, however, that the construction official shall have authority to require the removal of any sign that creates an unsafe condition or otherwise to require correction of any such condition:

 

i. It is supported by uprights or braces in or upon the ground surface;

 

ii. It is not served by an electrical circuit directly connected to the sign;

 

iii. It is not greater than 25 square feet in surface area (one side); and

 

iv. It is not more than six feet above the ground (mounted height).

 

7. Lead abatement work performed on a steel structure or other superstructure or in a commercial building.

 

8. A construction permit for building work shall not be required for garden-type utility sheds and similar structures that are 100 square feet or less in area, 10 feet or less in height, and accessory to buildings of Group R-2, R-3, R-4, or R-5 and which do not contain a water, gas, oil or sewer connection. A construction permit for electrical work shall be required, when applicable.

 

9. A permit shall not be required for fences six feet or less in height. This exception does not apply to barriers surrounding public or private swimming pools.

 

10. A construction permit is not required for an outdoor maze, unless it is six feet or greater in height or contains any electrical equipment. Outdoor mazes that do not require a permit are subject to the permitting requirements of the Uniform Fire Code (N.J.A.C. 5:70-2.7).

 

i. For the purposes of applying this requirement, an outdoor maze is an attraction that lacks a roof and is designed to disorient patrons, reduce vision, present barriers, or otherwise impede the flow of traffic and does not consist solely of living rooted plants such as corn stalks or trees, but includes mazes created from plants that have been cut and attached to an object to support them.

 

Similar to other sections of NJ law, they list when a permit is NOT required. If your work is not listed, then a permit IS required.

[dave545 15]

i did an interlock setup and ran my whole house on a 30 amp breaker without it shutting down once. we used 4 10 gauge wire though instead of 3 10 its a bit safer that way.

[djg0770 481]

i did an interlock setup and ran my whole house on a 30 amp breaker without it shutting down once. we used 4 10 gauge wire though instead of 3 10 its a bit safer that way.

 

Explain please.

 

3/10 NM is 2 hots, a neutral and a ground. What's the purpose of the "extra" conductor in your example?

[dave545 15]

Explain please.

 

3/10 NM is 2 hots, a neutral and a ground. What's the purpose of the "extra" conductor in your example?

nevermind then lol

i have 2 hots a nuetral and a ground as one but i thought it was reffered to as 4 10 wire My bad lol

I didnt buy romex though i bought this stuff it is braided

http://www.amazon.com/Cord-10-Gauge-Conductor-SOOW/dp/B003FOBLHY

[djg0770 481]

nevermind then lol

i have 2 hots a nuetral and a ground as one but i thought it was reffered to as 4 10 wire My bad lol

I didnt buy romex though i bought this stuff it is braided

http://www.amazon.co...W/dp/B003FOBLHY

 

Hey - we're both right. Whoda thunk!

[Porthole 15]

Just found this thread. Some thoughts.

 

During Irene (3.5 days) and Sandy (14 days) I ran my house on a Honda 3000 IS, extension cords all over. All 10 gauge. Worked, but inconvenient. Got real old after a week.

Figured it was costing me about $18-$20 a day.

 

The 3000 did a great job and is very quiet even under a heavy load.

 

My water heater is a forced draft HE unit and would not stay running on the generator. Eventually figured out that the generator needed to have the neutral and ground bonded. Unless it is a specific contractor Genny it seems most are not bonded.

I fixed that problem by putting a jumper in a male plug between the neutral and ground.

I have run my house off my camper at times, but, even though that is a 5500 watt unit it does not output 240, so no air handler. No handler equals no heat.

 

No heat was not an issue during Irene or the first week of Sandy. When we got that snow storm our house dropped to 51 degrees - that sucks.

 

I got permits to install a 15 KW natural gas generator.

Electric, plumbing and fire permit was $254. Also had to get a zoning permit which was $30

 

Electric would not issue until zoning was clear. Zoning took over a week.

E, P & F got "lost" in the office and took a month.

 

By the time I got my permits and a requested a trench inspection, the job was done and the dirt pile for the trench was frozen solid.

 

And the kicker is, my town requires me to landscape the generator with evergreens so it can not be seen by my neighbors Even though 3 of my 4 neighbors cannot see it.

[ryan_j 0]

I have a Honda EU6500iS with a Generlink meter collar transfer switch.

 

The meter collar does not require a permit because it's installed by the utility...

 

I would have done a whole house generator but I don't feel like tying up myself even more to ferrellgas. We don't have NG here, only propane.