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njwideglide

NEW STAG Owner- what do you think of yours

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Pizza bob!

Is that what the purpose of that foregrip looking thing is for on the stock?? I've seen them before and could not figure out what the eff it was for the life of me. Lol!

What is it called?

 

It is a monopod - this one by Accu-Shot. It's great from the bench - you can wrap your weak hand around it and make fine elevation adjustments by turning it. I really like it - since the stock had a rail there, thought I ought to put it to use.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

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That's what the sales guy told me. Just checked the specs on the website. Guess he was wrong. I was a novice at the time, not to say I'm a pro now, but when I was shopping, 1:7 seemed to be the twists to get. All the higher tier brands had that twist rate. I wanted the gov't profile as I didn't mind some additional weight in the front to counter muzzle lift and have a more stable barrel. My plan was to use it for 3G'ing. Another turn off was I wanted a free-floating barrel. The Model 2 wasn't. So, being picky from day 1 on my first AR, I ultimately landed on a SR15 Mod1. The other brands I was looking at during that time was Daniel D, Noveske and LMT. It was a buy once, cry once decision. Going by internet popularity and reviews was my only information when shopping. At the time, never even shot one before.

 

After becoming more informed on AR platforms and having shot various brands, my mindset has changed. ARs are in essence Honda Civics. Leave em stock, and they'll run fine. Tinker, tweak, or modify them to your heart's desire. I'm actually working on my first build now. The upper is going to be a WOA 26" match w/ 1:8 twist. This build's going to be strictly for bench and target competition.

 

Oh I am no pro either. Sorry, wasn't trying to imply I was.

 

Just curious about the Stag 1:12 twist and your Gov't profile preference that's all.

 

I do prefer the 1/7 twist myself.

 

That WOA match is a really nice barrel. Good luck with your build and post results when you are done.

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Have the model 8 and really like the rifle. It does not like the steel case ammo made by Tulammo. Jammed twice and could not pull back the charging handle. Otherwise it shoots well even with the 22 cal conversion kit.

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I am waiting to pick up my new Stag 15 any day now. (yay for speedy NICS processing! Not.)

 

Does anyone suggest an ammo brand to look for, or some to stay away from?

 

Stags seem to die on Tula, Wolf and Herters. So all steel cased stuff I would pass on. Which is a shame because it's usually the cheapest.

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Stags seem to die on Tula, Wolf and Herters. So all steel cased stuff I would pass on. Which is a shame because it's usually the cheapest.

 

Unless it's mid length with a heavy buffer. Fixed my problem with steel cased. Idk about the older laquer coated, but the poly stuff works fine for me.

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Unless it's mid length with a heavy buffer. Fixed my problem with steel cased. Idk about the older laquer coated, but the poly stuff works fine for me.

 

this could be true. Mine was a carbine length and the ammo was the older laquer coated stuff. That ammo literally killed the gun. I needed a cleaning rod to punch out the casing, twice.

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Only feed my baby brass. Most say steel is just dirty stuff. Heard it tends to gunk up the chamber too, so I pass on them.

 

Read a good review a while back comparing various brands of steel cased ammo. The test entailed shooting one rifle to each brand, all rifles spec'ed the same, then collecting data on accuracy, FTFs, amount of fouling, and barrel wear. Don't remember the exact details but only one brand stood out from the rest with the least FTFs. All brands had pretty extensive barrel wear. For some, the chrome lining and rifling were practically gone. Poly was in the middle of the bunch with some FTFs. I wish the test included a brass round for comparison.

 

So based on the data from that test, it doesn't mean you won't be able to send thousands down range, but the life expectancy of your barrel will be affected.

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I have a model 3 that probably has about 4000 rounds through it and it has been a good gun. I would buy it all over again if I had to. I really prefer my Fulton Armory A2 FAR15 for accuracy though. This is comparing apples to chevys though. For the money, Stag builds a solid AR

Ken

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Only feed my baby brass. Most say steel is just dirty stuff. Heard it tends to gunk up the chamber too, so I pass on them.

 

Read a good review a while back comparing various brands of steel cased ammo. The test entailed shooting one rifle to each brand, all rifles spec'ed the same, then collecting data on accuracy, FTFs, amount of fouling, and barrel wear. Don't remember the exact details but only one brand stood out from the rest with the least FTFs. All brands had pretty extensive barrel wear. For some, the chrome lining and rifling were practically gone. Poly was in the middle of the bunch with some FTFs. I wish the test included a brass round for comparison.

 

So based on the data from that test, it doesn't mean you won't be able to send thousands down range, but the life expectancy of your barrel will be affected.

 

I also saw a range test of 3 rifles simultaneously shooting non stop, 10k rounds of steel. They totaled something like 2% malfunctions. No abnormal wear was noticed on the rifles either. So it can go both ways. I think a lot of it is internet rumors repeatedly spread. Steel cased ammo was designed for rifle length gas systems. That's a huge part of it.

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this could be true. Mine was a carbine length and the ammo was the older laquer coated stuff. That ammo literally killed the gun. I needed a cleaning rod to punch out the casing, twice.

 

I don't suggest you use russian steel ammo in the AR styled rifles, however you can shoot them and not worry about them getting stuck if you open the bolt and extract the round before the laquer heats up and adheres the casing in the chamber/barrel.

If you shoot 3/4 of a mag and the chamber is all heated up, leaving a case in there will cause it to stick. Sucks cause its cheap.

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I don't suggest you use russian steel ammo in the AR styled rifles, however you can shoot them and not worry about them getting stuck if you open the bolt and extract the round before the laquer heats up and adheres the casing in the chamber/barrel.

If you shoot 3/4 of a mag and the chamber is all heated up, leaving a case in there will cause it to stick. Sucks cause its cheap.

 

doesnt happen with my current AR, which is what my goal was

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Been using my Stag 8 for awhile now. Other then FTE problems on my first outing with it, it's been flawless ever since. My recommendation would be to go slow on the mods until you figure out what you really want, consider swapping out the trigger for a 2-stage, and have lots of fun! Congrats on your new gun.

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Been using my Stag 8 for awhile now. Other then FTE problems on my first outing with it, it's been flawless ever since. My recommendation would be to go slow on the mods until you figure out what you really want, consider swapping out the trigger for a 2-stage, and have lots of fun! Congrats on your new gun.

 

Stag typically uses a really weak ejector spring. Of the three I've been involved in building, all three had weak springs.

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Stag typically uses a really weak ejector spring. Of the three I've been involved in building, all three had weak springs.
Perhaps, but this was my fault. First outing was out of the box and the issue was a result of running it totally dry. As soon as we hit it up with some strike hold, problem was corrected immediately and haven't had a problem since.

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Perhaps, but this was my fault. First outing was out of the box and the issue was a result of running it totally dry. As soon as we hit it up with some strike hold, problem was corrected immediately and haven't had a problem since.

My model 3's been sending brass into another zip code since day 1..

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I've got a Model 2. It's dead on. Unfortunately, during its 1000 round cleaning, one of my dogs jumped up and knocked the upper off of my workbench.

It fell and the *pinned* muzzel brake bent at the crown. I called Stag and they send the upper back to us, and we'll fix under warranty. Now that's service.

Their service says a lot, (the riffle says the rest.) Now, I'm just waiting to get it back.

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If you are going to run a scope that big, I'd get rid of the fixed front sight and get a BUIS. Then remove the carry handle and mount the scope directly to the reciever, or at most to a riser using low rings. Much better cheek weld and always best to have the scope as close to the bore centerline as possible.

 

I also think that anything over 20" is a waste with the 5.56/.223 - and it would be amazingly heavy. Here is my RRA (16" HB)...

 

4sn1pv.jpg

 

But that's the great thing about the AR platform - its modularity. Have fun with it.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

 

What stock setup is that

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