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New Permit in - 45acp or .357?

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I'm pretty much sold on the idea of a 686 now.

 

Now the question becomes... 686P or the SSR?

 

Main uses will be HD gun at some point and range fun. I'd like to get into gun competitions at some point but that's down the line. My focus now is more and more training.

you have to handle one yourself before buying. you'll find the 4" barrel is better than a 3" when it comes to range marksmanship.

the trigger is a bit better on the ssr than a standard smith revolver.

most people don't know this but the cylinder on the + is wider since it holds 7

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I'd like to get into gun competitions at some point but that's down the line.

 

So, get the SSR - even if it is a long way down the line it would mean not having to buy another gun to play games. Both IDPA and USPSA limit you to six rounds. In USPSA I believe you can use a 7 or 8 shot revolver in Revolver division, but you can only load 6 rounds - which makes indexing the cylinder on reloads a real PITA and makes it harder to be competitive. I do have a friend that shoots an 8-shot 627 in USPSA, but he shoots it in Production class - again at a large disadvantage. IDPA is pretty straight forward - 6 chamber cylinder, period. Won't make a difference at the range, but can save you some bucks down the road.

 

the trigger is a bit better on the ssr than a standard smith revolver.

 

You would have to be pretty sensitive to feel any real difference, despite what S&W may say in their advertising. I always look at any Smith trigger - whether standard, Pro or PC - as a good jumping off point for a great trigger.

 

most people don't know this but the cylinder on the + is wider since it holds 7

 

Mmmmmmmmmmmmm, no. An L-frame is an L-frame is an L-frame. The cylinder diameter is constrained by the opening in the frame. All L-frames are dimensionally the same, ergo, the cylinder diameter is constant. They squeeze the 7th round in by making the cylinder walls between chambers thinner. They can do this because, since it is 7 rounds, now the bolt notches fall between chambers not directly on the chamber.

 

Get the SSR and enjoy.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

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Pizza Bob, you are wrong on the cylinder width cause I shot multiple 686s. After shooting hundreds of rounds I can tell you the trigger is better on the SSR

 

And that qualifies you as an expert how? The cylinder diameter of all L-frame guns is 1.565". To have it be otherwise would mean re-engineering and retooling in order to gain, maybe, several thousandths of an inch. If they changed the frame dimenions, the nomenclature would be changed - much like it was with their small framed guns, going from the I-frame to the J-frame to the magnum J-frame.

 

Even saying that you have shot multiple 686's doesn'tmake your trigger observation valid either. I have a "few" S&W's and have shot a "few" more and even comparing identical models side by side there are variations in the quality of the triggers. Beyond the actual mechanical interfaces within the gun that affect trigger pull, you also have the human interface that can cause perceived differences in trigger quality. The same can be said of when the gun was manufactured - you will hear numerous S&W fans state that the triggers were better on the older guns. Too many variables to categorically state that he'll get a better trigger on the SSR than he would on a stock 686.

 

NMHO - Fact

 

Adios,

 

PIzza Bob

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I used to work in a gun store, okay? now stop the non-sense. go measure the cylinders yourself. if you never seen a 686 and a 686+ side by side, don't say anything.

Guys with molded plastic holsters would complain the 686+ are much tighter since the holsters they brought are designed for a 686.

No offense. Just trying the get the truth out there. Thanks

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.38/.357 revolver. 38s cheaper than .45ACP. And with ammo shortage, 38/357 although expensive, still available at most stores. Can'tgo wrong with S&W 686 or Ruger GP100 but I prefer Ruger SP101 for versatility. Yes its a 5-shot, but with a full-size grip say Hogue its very nice. Cannot go wrong with a S& W 586 or Ruger "Six"series, either.

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I used to work in a gun store, okay? now stop the non-sense. go measure the cylinders yourself. if you never seen a 686 and a 686+ side by side, don't say anything.

Guys with molded plastic holsters would complain the 686+ are much tighter since the holsters they brought are designed for a 686.

No offense. Just trying the get the truth out there. Thanks

 

I have, and, I repeat, all L-frame cylinders are 1.565" in diameter. The reason the kydex or poly holsters made for a 6-shot 686 do not fit the 7-shot 686 is because the cylinder flutes are in the wrong place - most plastic holsters, and well-boned leather ones also, are molded to the gun including into the flutes - if a flute isn't where it is supposed to be, guess what? The holster does not fit. Try using a caliper instead of a plastic holster.

 

No offense, just trying to stop misinformation by gun store employees from getting out there.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

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I can confirm Pizza Bob's measurements, I just checked my 686+ and SSR with calipers and both are the same. The trigger on my SSR is lighter and smoother, but the 686+ is pretty new whereas the SSR may have 500 more rounds through it so that may have lightened it up some. iRescue, I got the SSR first but then wanted something a little smaller in size so got the + too. Although it's a larger gun, the SSR feels a little lighter in some ways due to the squared off barrel and angled underlug. I swapped out the stock hogue grips on the 686+ for laminated combat style ones. I'm not an expert, but if you have any more questions about differences between the two please feel free to ask.

post-4534-0-92359800-1363830664_thumb.jpg

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I have, and, I repeat, all L-frame cylinders are 1.565" in diameter. The reason the kydex or poly holsters made for a 6-shot 686 do not fit the 7-shot 686 is because the cylinder flutes are in the wrong place - most plastic holsters, and well-boned leather ones also, are molded to the gun including into the flutes - if a flute isn't where it is supposed to be, guess what? The holster does not fit. Try using a caliper instead of a plastic holster.

 

No offense, just trying to stop misinformation by gun store employees from getting out there.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

 

This is right. The only difference is the space between the chambers is less and as for relative strength, the cylinder on the 686+ is actually STRONGER that the one on its six-round sybling. The reason: the cylinder stop slots on the six-shooter are directly above the chambers; the slots on the seven-shooter are BETWEEN the chambers. This means a 686+ has more metal between the chambers and the cylinder circumference than a 686.

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So after some thinking and research.. I think I'm pretty set on the idea of using my permit on a revolver. You guys make a lot of very valid points and I'm very excited at the prospect of owning my first wheelgun.

 

I shot a 686 when I took my basic handgun course and I was pretty accurate with it. I think I'd like to go that way.

 

Now I'm struggling with choosing either the plus or SSR. Anyone have either of these in monmouth area?

 

 

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I can confirm Pizza Bob's measurements, I just checked my 686+ and SSR with calipers and both are the same.
This is right. The only difference is the space between the chambers is less

 

Thanks guys. Dang young whippersnapper. I was shooting wheelguns before he was a gleam in his daddy's eyes. :rolleyes:

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

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If you want a compromise option, a Ruger single action revolver in .45 Colt... with an ACP conversion cylinder.

 

I always wanted a single action revolver, but not a fan of .357 or even .45 Colt. Picked up a Vaquero Convertible from Davidson's, which is an exclusive from them (5.5" barrel, in stainless). With that, I can also shoot the same rounds that my .45 PX4 shoots (also a good gun). But if I want to push past ACP loads, there is an option for that, as well.

 

Ruger does offer a .357 revolver with a 9mm cylinder, if you want even more versatility.

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Pizzabob, does this mean you can load a 686 "hotter" than a 686+ since there is more steel between the cylinders?

 

No - in either revolver you shouldn't exceed SAAMI specs for the .357 cartridge. What you say may seem logical - but consider that with the bolt notch sitting directly on the chamber, the wall thickness may be the same or less than the 686+, with the bolt notch between the chambers.

 

Last year on another forum, there was a picture of a GP100 KB (factory ammo). The failure point was the bolt notch.

 

Adios,

 

Pizza Bob

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Bob, I think that's all they had back then. :D

 

42 years ago I lived in Texas and my first wheel gun was the Ruger SA kind which was very popular with the cowboys or cowboy wannabes there at the time. Then I started with snub nose revolvers having preferred the toy version when I was a kid. That is what all the TV and movie detectives carried and I got me a shoulder vest and Colt Detective Special and that is what I carried around for two years before I moved to NJ.

 

I keep trying to get young shooters interested in them telling them that once they master a revolver they can shoot any other handgun made very well within a few shots. However most want instant results so opt for light triggers and laser. Give them a different gun and most cannot shoot it well without a lot of practice while I can shoot anything well. After learning trigger control with a double action every thing else is easy.

 

These days with limited and expensive ammo I am shooting my revolvers more and more as it takes much longer to get through a box of ammo than it does with my semi autos. I take my FNX-9 to the range with 4 17 round mags and shoot if rapid fire in a few minutes. :)

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Gp100 if it were my choice. I went with one over the 686. My reasoning being I shoot max and sometimes over max 357 loads and it takes it no problem. Rugers revolvers are tanks

 

Another vote for the GP100 (stainless). w/ 4-inch barrel. Very well built, great shooting revolvers.

 

I think the Op knows he's going to end up with both a .357 revolver and the .45 auto eventually it just a question of which on he decides to buy first.

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I think the Op knows he's going to end up with both a .357 revolver and the .45 auto eventually it just a question of which on he decides to buy first.

 

This is very true. Still in the hunt for my 686. No luck yet...

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I started out as you did with the G19. Then soon after had similar "goals" as you in wanting to add a .45 or .357 and wasn't sure what to get.

 

I went on to get a Kimber 1911 in .45ACP and recently picked up a single action revolver - the Ruger Vaquero in .357. I have been very pleased with all of them.

 

The Ruger was my first revolver, and man is it fun to shoot. Also, the loading/unloading/single-action aspects of it make you slow down and appreciate each shot (as opposed to when I started handgun shooting with the 15 round G19 and would burn through ammo like a bastard).

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