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MartyZ

Bolt action long range rifle - .308 vs. .300 winmag vs. 300 rum

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Ok, I am currently in the market for a long range bolt action rifle. I can only shoot to 200 yds at this point at range-14 but I do plan on getting into long range shooting (1000 yds) in the near future. I need some advice, .308, .300 winmag or .300 rum? I am not planning on doing any hunting with this rifle, yet, but even if I do, I won't be hunting a 1000 yds. What do you think about these 3 rounds? Ammo price is also a consideration but not a major one.

 

Also, remington, savage, mossberg, etc.... Which in your opinion is better.

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I have a few Remington 700's, one in .308 and one in 300 Win. The 308 i use mostly for bench shooting, 300yds @ CJ. The 300WM i picked up for an upcoming hunting trip. My 308 isn't setup for hunting, so I went with the 300. Don't know much about 300 rum however, but I would imagine the ammo is not as easy to obtain as .308. I initially had a hard time finding 300wm in stock anywhere, but .308 was easy to find.

 

Looks like your missing a Rem 700 from your lineup anyway :-). I would go .308 if I had to do it over again, simply for the fact that surplus and new .308 ammo is around.

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What do you think about the Mossberg 4x4 with a 24" fluted barrel? I love my mossberg shotties but how are they with rifles?

 

I haven't shot a mossberg, so i can only comment on the Rem's that i own.. sorry

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308 is not very good for 1000 yards. It drops over 25 feet (with a 100 yard zero) using a 168 grain match bullet at standard muzzle velocity. Much better for long range would be the 300 win mag or 300 rum.

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Well I am a little biased to Savage rifles. The accu-triggers are the most excellent and the easiest triggers out there to adjust. Some would argue that 308 is fine for 1000 yards but me not so much. 300RUM is a real thumper and you will NOT enjoy shooting it a lot. I have and shoot a 300 WSM quite often and it is not bad at all and flat for a 30 caliber. Not to throw another wrench in but look at 6.5's lighter recoil better BC's so wind drift we be not as bad at longer ranges. Just my .02.

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The .308 will make a much better learning tool then either of the other two in regards to ammunition cost, recoil, and system cost; in both the initial outlay and follow on with barrel replacement. I have shot my .308 out well beyond the mythical one thousand yard line; the 175 Match grain loads are the loads of choice. I'd recommend looking at the Remington and/ or Savage for your entry level precision rifle. Both will give you great performance out of the box, and likely shoot better then you for some time. They also have a large following of aftermarket vendors to further upgrade your stick down the line, as you learn what your wants and needs really are.

Just remember, the rifle is only one part. You'll still need good glass, a good mounting system, quality maintenance gear, and of course match grade ammunition...at a basic minimum.

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The .308 will make a much better learning tool then either of the other two in regards to ammunition cost, recoil, and system cost; in both the initial outlay and follow on with barrel replacement. I have shot my .308 out well beyond the mythical one thousand yard line; the 175 Match grain loads are the loads of choice. I'd recommend looking at the Remington and/ or Savage for your entry level precision rifle. Both will give you great performance out of the box, and likely shoot better then you for some time. They also have a large following of aftermarket vendors to further upgrade your stick down the line, as you learn what your wants and needs really are.

Just remember, the rifle is only one part. You'll still need good glass, a good mounting system, quality maintenance gear, and of course match grade ammunition...at a basic minimum.

 

So from what I gather, from an economical standpoint, the .308 is my best choice, at least for now. And since I won't be taking down ELK at 400 yds anytime soon any of the 300 magnums are overkill.

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You need to get out of the mindset of "I can hand x number of 3" slugs, so I can handle the bigger calibers." To really develop skill with a precision rifle, you will need to shoot...a lot. Grab your shot gun, head to the range, prone out on your belly and shoot a hundred of those 3" slugs, concentrating with complete precision for each shot...That's day one. Now rinse and repeat...often. Precision rifle skills are perishable, and need to be maintained...

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So from what I gather, from an economical standpoint, the .308 is my best choice, at least for now. And since I won't be taking down ELK at 400 yds anytime soon any of the 300 magnums are overkill.

Correct

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You need to get out of the mindset of "I can hand x number of 3" slugs, so I can handle the bigger calibers." To really develop skill with a precision rifle, you will need to shoot...a lot. Grab your shot gun, head to the range, prone out on your belly and shoot a hundred of those 3" slugs, concentrating with complete precision for each shot...That's day one. Now rinse and repeat...often. Precision rifle skills are perishable, and need to be maintained...

 

I'm not in that mindset, I just wanted a comparison to something that I have shot, but I get your point.

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The .308 will make a much better learning tool then either of the other two in regards to ammunition cost, recoil, and system cost; in both the initial outlay and follow on with barrel replacement. I have shot my .308 out well beyond the mythical one thousand yard line; the 175 Match grain loads are the loads of choice. I'd recommend looking at the Remington and/ or Savage for your entry level precision rifle. Both will give you great performance out of the box, and likely shoot better then you for some time. They also have a large following of aftermarket vendors to further upgrade your stick down the line, as you learn what your wants and needs really are.

Just remember, the rifle is only one part. You'll still need good glass, a good mounting system, quality maintenance gear, and of course match grade ammunition...at a basic minimum.

 

This is your answer as to which cartridge and/or rifle to pick. It's a good one to start with. As for recoil, you can use these simplified charts to get an idea of measurements or use a recoil calculator to figure them out based on what you plan on using. They're available on the web; you just plug in the values of rifle weight, powder charge, velocity, bullet weight; to get a more accurate estimate.(A .300 RUM has almost twice the powder charge of a .308W. WHY would you need that? Ouch!)

 

 

http://www.chuckhawk...ecoil_table.htm

 

http://www.chuckhawk...ecoil_table.htm

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As noted the 308 is a great learning tool. Everything drops, that is not the issue, when a round goes transonic is, thus the recomendations for 175's. However, worthy of consideration are the crop of 6.5's. 6.5X47 Lapua, 6.5 Creedmore, 260 rem. Roughly 300wm ballistics with the economy near the 308 side of the fence.

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I recently bought and started shooting a Savage 110BA in 300 win mag (was going to buy a 338LM) but I already have a few rifles with stupid expensive ammo and the reloading costs for 300 WM were much lower.

 

It's a lot of fun.

 

That said, my 308 Remington 700 in a fancy stock, etc, is just as much fun and accurate at 300yds.

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Actually, I think the 6.5 Creedmoor only gets my vote if YOU DO handload.  Their availability has been pretty bad.  You can form the brass, and at least have a chance of making some ammo...

 

True. In 'normal' times you could buy a box of Hornady factory match ammo for about $25 and it was very good stuff. The hoarders have got to it and now there is none to be found. On the flip side, good luck finding the powder, primer, heads, and brass needed to roll your own. Same problem.

 

If you want to stay in the 6.5mm family then the other options are more expensive or less promising if you dont handload. The 6.5x47L is about $60 a box and there is not much quality factory 260 Rem ammo available at all. Southwest ammo makes some decent stuff for about $25/box when available. They sell out quick b/c they are a small company.

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