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almiz111

New reloader - trials and tribulations

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Just started and it's really fun. Trying to be very deliberate so I don't blow off my face.

 

I deprimed some Hornady 308 Whitetail.  Putting in the new primers took like 999 ft lbs of effort. So I call Hornady and SURPRISE - "well we have a light crimp in those so you have to ream them". It's not a big deal IF you know what's going on. So much for only military primers being crimped.

 

Then I get to crimp stage for some 40SW. Well the whole cartridge slides right through  the crimp insert. WOW! I call Lee and yes, they had a shipping/kitting problem. The correct crimp insert is on the way.

 

Then I bump into the now famous 45ACP  with small pistol primer NT by Federal.  Another crimp job that needs reaming. Oh well.

 

Now a question for you guys. For competitive rifle shooting like 300 yard F Class or Garand: What powder tolerance do you achieve and how do you do it?  Do you target a range or percentage? Do you tweak each cartridge on an expensive scale?  

 

I was doing some 40SW with a target of 5.9gr and had a range of say 5.8 to 6.1. That doesn't seem to be very good to me. 

 

Thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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How are you measuring your powder?  What powder are you using?  

 

Have you worked up your load for your gun using your components from a low published powder charge?

 

If you just picked 5.9 grns and started loading without any testing then I would really watch the 6.1 charges --  Depends on all you components.

 

Is everything your using exactly how the book has it?  

 

Should work up your loads no matter what but especially if you even make 1 substitution from the published load like using a different primer or brand of brass than what is published.

 

Don't just assume anything -- You need to work it up from a low charge and be sure your combination works in your gun

 

It's supposed to be fun so enjoy the journey and experimentation

 

I've been loading for 20 + years now -- currently I'm working a load for a springfield 1911 in 9mm

 

15 test rounds made in 3 different powder charges -- 3.2 - 3.3 -3.4 grns of promo pushing 147 grn extreme plated and also the same loads pushing 147 grn BBIs 

 

I'm checking for pressure signs at each pull of the trigger and also hoping to find a combination the gun likes -- Once I find a powder weight that looks promising I'll start varying the bullet seating depth to further fine tune it

 

It's part of the game for me --  to make the best possible ammo for my particular gun -- then when I miss the target there's no excuse but the shooter

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For precision rifle rounds, you need to trickle charge.  Get the charge close to where you want with a powder drop, then trickle charge (use powder trickle) a couple of grains at a time to hit the mark.  I use a RCBS 1500 digital scale which is very accurate and consistent.

 

You're going to have to try different powders and charges to find the sweet spot in your rifle.  I'm using Varget in .223 rounds and have shot under 1/4MOA at 100yds in a bolt gun.

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Thank you Heavy & Sig. I use a Hornady small cal. powder drop with Hornady scale - Alliant Unique.

 

I find no data that exactly matches my 'stuff' so I get all possible combinations and make the most safe cartridge I can. No interest in getting high velocity or anything fancy. Example. No published data for - Xtreme plated 180 bullets with above powder with Blazer once fired brass and Fed primers. I make measurements to assure that the powder fits without compression. 

 

What are the main 'pressure signs' when firing?

 

Thanks again. 

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I do my rifle reloading using RCBS powder measures and  5 0 5 beam scales. For both bolt action and semi auto rifles.  At 1 point I suffered from OCD and tried to squeeze every last 1/128th out of a round. I tried every technique and gadget thinking that I could be more accurate than the last. I discovered 2 things, 1, I do not have that much time or money to waste 2, I could not tell the difference at 300 yds between standard reloads and I think I am Joe Super Sniper rounds. The guys who shoot 1000 plus yards or compete for 1/128 inch wins or losses, it makes sense for them. I also do not meter every charge for perfect weight. I check every 10 or 20 rounds and if it is within +/- .002 it is perfectly acceptable and you will never know the difference unless you are loading everything at max powder charge, and even then you probably won't either. Just my experience over the years. I load for rifles from 1889 up to modern. Ask lots of questions and read lots of info. Everyone has their own quirks and will never agree 100% with someone else. Trial and careful error is how you will learn.

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Unique is a flake powder -- Very hard to accurately run thru a  powder measure --

 

 The flakes sometimes bridge as they fall into the chamber of the measure causing voids and changing your drop weight -- 

 

A measure with a wide and shallow metering chamber will work better than a measure with a deep and narrow opening

 

As for pressure signs -- Search the web -- There's lots of different signs -- Most common is a flattening of the primer on a spent case --

 

excess pressure is pushing the primer out of the primer pocket and flattening it against the breech face -- but this could also be a sign of loose fitting primers

 

There really is no 1 sign -- well I guess case head separation, followed by exploding gun  --

 

 just be smart and start low and work your way up don't just jump into a load and assume it's ok cause you read about it on the web 

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