Tactical Turtle 11 Posted May 29, 2013 Lets see your custom home made target stands. Post your trials and errors! Show us what you got!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AS350Driver 56 Posted May 29, 2013 Here's one of mine for paper targets. This one is for steel shooting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
remixer 1,645 Posted May 29, 2013 well done ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Night Prowler 0 Posted May 29, 2013 Shawn is he over 18? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
djg0770 481 Posted May 29, 2013 DYFS visiting you now. (too soon?) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Urban Grunt 44 Posted May 29, 2013 Your gun club/ range doesn't have target stands? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thegerb50 0 Posted May 29, 2013 Tis is 2" PVC pipe, most sections are 20 inches long, the whole thing breaks down and stores in a sea bag for ease of transport. It is easily adaptable as well. The top section comes off and the bottom of the stand is in 2 pieces. This allows to easily convert it into a traditional target stand by dropping 2 1x2's into the uprights. The top cross pieces are drilled out so i can hang things (like bowling pins) and the bottom cross pieces have boards attached so you can use knock down type or stand up targets. On an aside the bowling pins absorb hits pretty well, I have put well over 1000 rounds of 22lr, 500 rounds of 30-06 and about 1000 rounds of 40 s&w through them and they are still good to go. If anyone wants plans/parts list let me know and I'll send it your way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jrfly3006 42 Posted May 29, 2013 Tis is 2" PVC pipe, most sections are 20 inches long, the whole thing breaks down and stores in a sea bag for ease of transport. It is easily adaptable as well. The top section comes off and the bottom of the stand is in 2 pieces. This allows to easily convert it into a traditional target stand by dropping 2 1x2's into the uprights. The top cross pieces are drilled out so i can hang things (like bowling pins) and the bottom cross pieces have boards attached so you can use knock down type or stand up targets. On an aside the bowling pins absorb hits pretty well, I have put well over 1000 rounds of 22lr, 500 rounds of 30-06 and about 1000 rounds of 40 s&w through them and they are still good to go. If anyone wants plans/parts list let me know and I'll send it your way. I'll take you up on that offer.. Thanks.. PM if email is easier Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
10X 3,296 Posted May 29, 2013 I'll take you up on that offer.. Thanks.. PM if email is easier Me, too, please! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thegerb50 0 Posted May 29, 2013 Sorry didn't realize I forgot to attach the picture Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shawnmoore81 623 Posted May 29, 2013 DYFS visiting you now. (too soon?) Hahaha Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tactical Turtle 11 Posted May 30, 2013 Nice stands guys! Working on a galvunized steel frame atm since my ahole friend dhot some target load at my pvc 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sonnylee 20 Posted May 30, 2013 I think that the PVC Target base is the most economical and lightest, I'd drill a couple of holes so that you can spike to ground. Nice job! mine Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thegerb50 0 Posted May 30, 2013 To make it easier I will post the parts list on here All pipe is 2 inch PVC 30 ft PVC pipe 4- tee's 6- 90 degree elbows 2- cross tee's 2 couplings I cut the 30 ft of pipe into 20 inch sections. (16 in total). (The remainder was split up to form the upright) Each coupling, tee, or elbow has one section of pipe pre connected to it and held in place with a self tapping screw to make assembly simpler The upright sections can be cut into with ever lengths you wish, I have 1 20" piece and 2 other pieces of pipe of varying length. The 20" pipe on the upright is not included in the 16 count given above. Please look at the attached sketch for assembly. I apologize in advanced for my poor art work, I am not an engineer, architect , or an artist. For use as just a paper target stand take out the 2 20" pieces of pipe with the couplings pre-attached to narrow the stand a bit, leave the 2 upright 20" Lents in place and insert appropriately sized wood into the pipe to serve as your uprights (I currently do not have a picture of this but will add one after my next range trip this week. I also bought 4 2 inch pipe brackets and attached them to some 1x6 to act as shelves to stand items on. If you have any questions or need better detail then let me know Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chris327 30 Posted May 30, 2013 To make it easier I will post the parts list on here All pipe is 2 inch PVC 30 ft PVC pipe 4- tee's 6- 90 degree elbows 2- cross tee's 2 couplings I cut the 30 ft of pipe into 20 inch sections. (16 in total). (The remainder was split up to form the upright) Each coupling, tee, or elbow has one section of pipe pre connected to it and held in place with a self tapping screw to make assembly simpler The upright sections can be cut into with ever lengths you wish, I have 1 20" piece and 2 other pieces of pipe of varying length. The 20" pipe on the upright is not included in the 16 count given above. Please look at the attached sketch for assembly. I apologize in advanced for my poor art work, I am not an engineer, architect , or an artist. For use as just a paper target stand take out the 2 20" pieces of pipe with the couplings pre-attached to narrow the stand a bit, leave the 2 upright 20" Lents in place and insert appropriately sized wood into the pipe to serve as your uprights (I currently do not have a picture of this but will add one after my next range trip this week. I also bought 4 2 inch pipe brackets and attached them to some 1x6 to act as shelves to stand items on. If you have any questions or need better detail then let me know my question is what range do you use that at? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
10X 3,296 Posted May 30, 2013 I think that the PVC Target base is the most economical and lightest, I'd drill a couple of holes so that you can spike to ground. Nice job! For those who haven't already learned this lesson the hard way, twist drills tend to grab PVC pipe and whip the pieces around if you thought you could hold it by hand, or bust up the pipe (at least in smaller diameters). Spade bits (the flat, woodboring bits) work much better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tactical Turtle 11 Posted May 30, 2013 For those who haven't already learned this lesson the hard way, twist drills tend to grab PVC pipe and whip the pieces around if you thought you could hold it by hand, or bust up the pipe (at least in smaller diameters). Spade bits (the flat, woodboring bits) work much better. And dont goto fast or you may crack.it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hiker88 22 Posted May 30, 2013 I think that the PVC Target base is the most economical and lightest, I'd drill a couple of holes so that you can spike to ground. Nice job! by the way, on my pvc pipe stands, I did not glue them together. I just used strips of duct tape (at the bottom so that the stand does not look ugly) to hold them together. Just in case a portion of the stand gets damaged, it would be easy to replace the component. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buell508 6 Posted June 13, 2013 I like the pvc I was going to make some from steel but will try the plastic thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jm1827 284 Posted June 13, 2013 Probably a stupid question, but that never stopped me before. Does anyone know if these can be used at Range 14 or do you have to use target stands that are driven directly in the ground? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AS350Driver 56 Posted June 13, 2013 Probably a stupid question, but that never stopped me before. Does anyone know if these can be used at Range 14 or do you have to use target stands that are driven directly in the ground? It shouldn't be an issue. I've used mine there recently. When I was leaving the RO on the loudspeaker said all targets and/or stands brought from home must be approved, but I don't think it was directed at me. Just ask them, but I doubt it would be an issue. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AverageJoe 95 Posted June 13, 2013 My stand, keeping with the pvc premiss but I used cast elbows for a little weight. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RecessedFilter 222 Posted June 13, 2013 I was really expecting to see some ghetto target stands in here haha but so far so good! I've made a bunch out of PVC similar to previously posted ones...they end up costing like 15 bucks a pop and take 5mins to make. You just can't beat it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
forayzor 1 Posted June 14, 2013 Here's mine, I put lengths of rebar in the short sections to keep it weighted, so I don't need to stake it to the ground. I put 1x1 strips of wood into the vertical tubes and staple my target to them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
almiz111 26 Posted June 15, 2013 Ok Boys. Nice designs (plastic and metal) and all that. We've been through this before. Put an 18 x 24 target mount on them they will blow over on windy days at Dix 14. You need a small pallet made from 2x4s. That is my experience. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
forayzor 1 Posted June 15, 2013 Ok Boys. Nice designs (plastic and metal) and all that. We've been through this before. Put an 18 x 24 target mount on them they will blow over on windy days at Dix 14. You need a small pallet made from 2x4s. That is my experience. Hence the rebar in my design, does not blow over. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites