Question on building a AR

[EWC88 24]

Been looking at everyone's AR pictures and LOVE what I see. Read alot of people's post also about purchasing one and I see that everyone is highly recommending for you to build one, that way you build something you exactly want, which is smart.

 

Now I'm new when it comes to rifles. I want a AR but have no clue where to start. I thought of building one but my question is, if you don't know anything about these different companies for the lowers or uppers or what not for the AR, how do you know what to get? May sound like a dumb question but I'm just new to this that I have no idea what company to get what part from. I can say what I would like it to look like, but that's not the key design of the parts.

 

Any help for the dumb question is appreciated!

[Lalo 13]

Simple answer to your question is that you have to do some research on the various different manufacturers in order to find out which you should go for. Something else you should ask yourself is if you are building a safe queen or plan on using the AR for the range or classes and are not going to care if it gets scuffed up. Some people believe in getting the most awesome, uber expensive, top of the line lower (and upper) then the AR ends up sitting in the safe. They take it out of the safe to clean it, pet it, caress it maybe even cuddle with it. Then when they take it to the range to shoot it and they see a ding on the deflector, they freak out. Forget about it if sand or dirt gets in the rifle during a class. Don't be that guy. AR's are meant to be used and abused and for that, you don't NEED a top of the line rifle.

 

I've had experience with Smith & Wesson, CMMG, and Palmetto State Armory aluminum lowers and New Frontier Armory polymer lowers and have had no issues with them at all. Building the lower is really simple and can be done with basic tools as long as you're somewhat mechanically inclined. Building an upper is a little different because it requires some specialized tools (barrel nut wrench, go-no-go gauges, etc) and if you're putting everything together, then you might run into issues with the gas block/tube not lining up properly which could lead to issues. For the upper, I suggest you purchase a complete one and just mate it with the lower you got.

 

As far as everything else, hand guard, sights, accessories, it's really a matter of personal preference. Go to some shops and handle some of the AR's or go to a range with some people and test our different configurations. Try not to just go by pictures if you can avoid it.

 

Other then that, ask questions, make sure you sign up for ar15.com and spend time in their troubleshooting and build it yourself sections.

[NYMetsFan86 9]

I am hearing good things about the NFA polymer lower. very affordable and durable. Midwestpx.com has them at a sick price even with the loer kit installed. May not be the best lower parts but im sure it will do and you can always buy it stripped for even cheaper. GL man im in the same boat and just finishing up my accumulation of parts. 

 

I like this Brownells checklist as well for my builds as a newb myself it came in handy.....

 

http://www.brownells.com/UserDocs/Miscellaneous/ARCLform.pdf

[raz-0 1,259]

If you are simply populating a lower and attaching it to a pre-built upper, don't over think it too much. 

 

IF you are going to be assembling the upper as well, then you need to worry more about a number of choices. Right now for the latter, dawson precision has STI matched upper and lower sets for $233, which isn't bad. However they are stripped lower and stripped upper (i.e. not even a forward assist installed on the upper receiver). 

[XDm9-3.8 2]

View the sticky at the top of this forum which includes a link to "so you want to buy an ar-15 huh".  May not tell you exactly what to buy with respect to brands/features, but it will surely educate you on why you might select certain features and brands over another. 

[checko 180]

Here's where to start: What is going to be the main purpose of this rifle?  Plinking, precision shooting, "battle" rifle, etc.

 

Some reputable companies that I've seen get decent respect here is Palmetto State Armory, Spikes, Bravo Company, Daniel Defense etc.  But the specific parts you need will depend on what you are looking to get out of the rifle. 

[vladtepes 1,060]

Here's where to start: What is going to be the main purpose of this rifle?  Plinking, precision shooting, "battle" rifle, etc.

 

Some reputable companies that I've seen get decent respect here is Palmetto State Armory, Spikes, Bravo Company, Daniel Defense etc.  But the specific parts you need will depend on what you are looking to get out of the rifle. 

 

 

+1

 

what you do with the gun will dictate how you build the gun...

 

I would not personally get a poly lower...i have seen some fitting issues.. 

I have had good luck with the following lowers aero precision, spikes, S&W..

 

some parts are far more important than others... like the trigger for example...

 

if you tell us what you want to do with the gun we can likely give you a lot of ideas.. 

[twong11219 0]

Bear in mind the intent you plan on using it. Are you going to go varmint hunting, paper punching, competition, etc. What you initially imagined might not be the good option in the end. Some parts are lighter than others which will provide advantages which you didn't consider.

[XDm9-3.8 2]

Bear in mind the intent you plan on using it. Are you going to go varmint hunting, paper punching, competition, etc. What you initially imagined might not be the good option in the end. Some parts are lighter than others which will provide advantages which you didn't consider.

 

Does use really matter, you end up with one for EVERY use in the end anyway. 

[twong11219 0]

I thought so too as my first one is a SR15. Figued it's good for mili, should be fine for anything i dish at it. My main purpose was for 3G competition. In the end, I found it quite heavy compared to my friend's Noveske. Aiming and transitioning is so much easier when the front end is lighter. My SR came with the URX 3.1 and an LMT Sopmod. Both one the heavier side compared to others on the market. It's fine for other purposes, but long range precision or run and gun is not it's strong suit. I'm not heavy stocked or very strong, so now, every oz I can shave off counts.

 

Overall, I'm happy with it, but for the price I paid, there were a lot of other options I could have considered. I didn't opt to build my own at first because it was election year and parts were scarce. I just did not have the time to stalk the retailers and distributors. Also, being that it was my first one, I just did not have a grasp of what was important and what I really wanted. From the pics and reviews, the KAC just seemed like the perfect fit.

 

I'm now doing my first build and now know exactly what I want based on my SR's shortcomings and others I have had the chance of playing with.

[twong11219 0]

Does use really matter, you end up with one for EVERY use in the end anyway. 

You're not wrong on that. All variants will do the same thing, but some will have a slight advantage over the other. I couldn't imagine wielding a 26" match bull barrel rifle to a rifle stage. I'd be slapping the barrel into barricades or walls or my times would be slower because there's so many more inches to swing around not to mention weight.

 

Sneakers and dress shoes do the same thing, but I'd pick up sneakers to do a 10k run any day.

[monmouth 19]

I build my own rifles from the ground up because I know what I want it to do (my rifle is a tool, every tool has a purpose/job).  My tools get well used, but are well maintained.

 

I strongly recommend the following:

• Buy yourself a complete rifle, ready to go.  Off the rack rifle will do just fine.
• The rifle should be basic all around, try to keep it under $1,000.00
• If it's a decent rifle, but pink and on sale, buy it!  Spray paint is cheap, just get a basic reliable rifle.
• You don't need an optic of any kind, just irons.
• You don't need a fancy free floating tube.
• You don't need an upgraded trigger.
• You don't need a light
• You don't need a fancy brand, just a basic rifle that shoots straight.
• You don't need a rifle with "match grade barrel" or "precision this or that".

Take your new rifle and learn how to clean it, service it, and handle it SAFELY.  Take a course, take 2 courses, but remember, knowledge is the most powerful tool in your arsenal.

 

Report back to this forum after you put a few thousand quality rounds down range and tell us what you don't like about your rifle setup.  Now, you can confidently go out and purchase said upgrade/changes because YOU know what you need.  I know what I need, but nobody can tell you what's best for you.  Your basic off the rack rifle will out shoot you for a long time so don't waste time and money playing "big weewee on AR discussion boards). 

 

Don't shoot off those steady benches at the range.  I can't tell you how many guys (waaaaaaay too many) shoot their pimped out rifles off a bench.  Rifles are all decked out with this forward grip, this optic, that stock, blah blah blah and the owners can't shoot.  They think they can, but they can't.

 

Lastly, your new off the rack rifle will shoot in the rain, the snow, frigid weather, hot humid sticky weather, way too hot peanut butter like mirage heat, tropical storm cross range in your face wind, Sunday football time, etc... so be there at the range shooting IN IT.  You won't be alone, because I'm always there with extra ammo and snacks

[vladtepes 1,060]

you can build a rifle as cheaply or almost as cheaply as you can buy one.. and STILL get the experience of building it.. 

[monmouth 19]

you can build a rifle as cheaply or almost as cheaply as you can buy one.. and STILL get the experience of building it.. 

 

No doubt, I agree with you on this, the experience is important.  My only concern is the OP will be overwhelmed with data, opinions, etc.. and get "bullied" into a build by a bunch of people who really don't shoot. 

 

Don't get me started on all these "battle builds" I see where the operators couldn't precisely shoot a 12" plate at 100 yards...........prone let alone standing. 

 

Larue/LMT - check

Acog - check

Bipod - check

comfy position at the bench -  check

 

[YWHIC 18]

Built 5 lowers.. and alot of uppers..

 

Kept changing things..

 

Cheap Red Dot (x4).. Eo Tech.. Fancy Rails (x3).. Different Scopes (x6)..

 

I found using just regular 'irons' when testing on a bag on the bench.. yielded (for me) the same 3" or so group as a 3 MOA red dot did..

 

So now I just run the 'irons'.. at the end of the day your usage will dictact what you should buy or build..

 

S&W MP 15's have good reviews and are decently priced IMHO.. then you can 'grow' that when you figure what YOU want out.

 

Keep in mind NJ AR's are neutered.. fixed or pinned stock.. and pinned/welded compensators/brakes are the 'norm'.. so buying something cool online might get you an ugly surprise when it gets to your NJ dealer and they tell you thats it not legal for transfer..

 

Also 10 and 15 round magazines are all you get in NJ as well..

[vladtepes 1,060]

No doubt, I agree with you on this, the experience is important.  My only concern is the OP will be overwhelmed with data, opinions, etc.. and get "bullied" into a build by a bunch of people who really don't shoot. 

 

Don't get me started on all these "battle builds" I see where the operators couldn't precisely shoot a 12" plate at 100 yards...........prone let alone standing. 

 

Larue/LMT - check

Acog - check

Bipod - check

comfy position at the bench -  check

 

 

 

for what its worth..  I shoot man sized steel at close to 300 yards with a 3x magnifier and a red dot.. 

 

the answer of what type of build is simple...

 

"what do you want to do with the gun" that dictates the build..

[vladtepes 1,060]

Built 5 lowers.. and alot of uppers..

 

Kept changing things..

 

Cheap Red Dot (x4).. Eo Tech.. Fancy Rails (x3).. Different Scopes (x6)..

 

I found using just regular 'irons' when testing on a bag on the bench.. yielded (for me) the same 3" or so group as a 3 MOA red dot did..

 

So now I just run the 'irons'.. at the end of the day your usage will dictact what you should buy or build..

 

S&W MP 15's have good reviews and are decently priced IMHO.. then you can 'grow' that when you figure what YOU want out.

 

Keep in mind NJ AR's are neutered.. fixed or pinned stock.. and pinned/welded compensators/brakes are the 'norm'.. so buying something cool online might get you an ugly surprise when it gets to your NJ dealer and they tell you thats it not legal for transfer..

 

Also 10 and 15 round magazines are all you get in NJ as well..

 

red dot is designed for rapid target engagement... so it is reasonable to assume slow steady shots will be similar with red dot or irons..