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Tom-NJ2AS

In ground pool opinions

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My wife has really been pushing for a pool lately. I have always put it off because of the cost but I think if we use it, it would be worth it. My buddy used pool town in Howell and had nothing but good things to say. He said he bought at the end of the season and got it for 19,000.00. It's a crazy shaped pool with waterfall. No diving board. Concrete up to 3' included. I only need a standard shape since my back yard is small (huge front yard but I know I can't so that!). I negotiate contracts all the time so I would make sure there are no hissing costs like wet excavation or anything. Ill try to make sure it's all included. Just wanted everyone's thoughts and who else I should look for a quote from. I would like salt water but I believe there is a big price difference

 

Thanks guys. Any input appreciated.

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Go with the salt chlorinator, wayy better and less work. I just add salt, if needed, the last couple years. Very little in chemicals beyond the opening stuff. Easier on eyes, doesn't smell, salt is pretty cheap, use water softener salt or pool salt.It does cost more in equipment at first, but since you are doing a new install, you should get it

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Just stay away from anthony sylvan. They should all die of inoperable painful cancer.

 

If you have someone that is raving about a pool contractor, use them. In my experience, I've never heard any in ground pool owner "rave" about their builder. Ever. So if you found the holy grail, use them. Yea verily.

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We just had a concrete pool re coped, tiled and plasterd. We installed new filter and skimmer lines. Along with the pool cover at the end of the season we should be around 20grand for a refresh. So 19 brand new is a steal. We are using Buds Pools in Deptford. We are haveing a few issues with water loss that has to be remedied, we think its a return. Well see how they handle it. The original pressure test wasn't done correctly and we are trying to fix it after the fact. We have a modified kidney bean shaped pool 3ft to 6ft.

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Go with salt water - I don't believe it's that much more and it pays for itself in chemical savings. Also, the water feels much nicer. It doesn't smell like chlorine and it won't fade swimsuits or turn light blonde hair green.

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Make sure all the piping is a good size, too many builders skimp on that and that will cost you big dollars down the road in pumping costs.  Make sure all lines are 2" or larger.  Also make sure there are lots of valves and that you at a minimum get a two speed pump but better are the newer inverter controlled ones that offer an infinite number of speeds.  With my Intelliflow  I can just dial in how many GPM or RPM I want and the pump handles it.  That will save you a lot of money on electricity.  I highly suggest an electric heat pump over a gas heater if you are going to want to extend the season.  Gas is cheaper up front, but a heatpump costs a lot less to run.  But with gas you can raise the temperature much faster.  I only use the heat pump in April and Sept.  The rest of the time I have two solar mats that are each 20' by 2' and that provides enough heat for my 20' x 40' IG pool.  Most of the season those mats keep it between 80 to 85 degrees, but with the heat we have had right now it is sitting at 90 which the wife and kids love -- way too hot for me.

 

There are some great pool forums out there to get advice, troublefreepools.com is a good one.  As for chemicals, these forums as am I are big advocates on the BBB method.  I use bleach, 20 mule team borax and baking soda - don't ever use those expensive pool chemicals except for a little stabilizer.  Also I would go with a DE filter, not sand.  You get a much cleaner pool that way.

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Go with solar heat if you can.  It's free heat.

 

Suggest you consider a standard shape and size as it will help you years down the road when you want to buy covers and liners (providing you go with a liner pool).

 

Oh and get an aquabot - not one of those other brands that requires the pool pump or another pump.  Yes, it's worth the thousand bucks.

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There are some great pool forums out there to get advice, troublefreepools.com is a good one.  As for chemicals, these forums as am I are big advocates on the BBB method.  I use bleach, 20 mule team borax and baking soda - don't ever use those expensive pool chemicals except for a little stabilizer.  Also I would go with a DE filter, not sand.  You get a much cleaner pool that way.

 

I also follow the BBB method on the troublefreepools.com site.  Spend time reading and following this site and you will save a ton of money in chemicals.  The pool store will sell you a lot of expensive chemicals that are not necessary.

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$19K - $20K is probably bare bones with no heater, I am thinking more like $25K - $30K is realistic - also depending oh what area you are from.  This would include some bare bones landscaping too. can easily go up to 45K - 50K if you add fence, landscaping, heater, more concrete that the standard 3 feet, decking etc.

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does having a pool effect your insurance rates?

It may. If You put in a diving board they may drop you. I was up front with the insurance company about the pool and they were cool with it. They then did a surprise inspection and dropped me. They wouldn't give me insurance unless I removed the diving board. Switched to skylands they were about $600 more but no problem with the diving board.

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I looked at alot of pool companies when we put our pool in and considered vinyl, gunite, fiberglass.  Gunite is really unnecessary but looks very classy.  A nice vinyl design can too but the edge/coping has to match the surroundings.

 

If you are in Toms River, I would definitely consider Integrity Pools.  They show up on time to build and it is done quickly.  The guys they subcontract to do a great job.  It is a family run company.  The after installation service is outstanding and the owner picks up the phone.  They put in vinyl lined pools.  If you have full overhead sun you probaly won't need the heater except in the spring and late fall.

 

Clorinated vs salt really doesn't matter.  At the time the technology for the salt still wasn't up to par.  Things may be different now.

 

I would pay extra for the real coping or concrete edge for aesthetics especially if you have a high end house.  The aluminum edging makes the pool look cheap. 

 

The vinyl is easy to repair or replace.  No sharp objects though.

 

I grew up with an old Anthony gunite pool.  It is colder with the white plaster.  Redoing the coping and the the plaster is a major undertaking and expensive.  When you are ready to do it, it will almost cost as much as the pool.  The plaster also does a number on the bottom of your feet if you spend alot of time in the pool.

 

In the sandy area down here the fiberglass ones can 'pop' out of the ground unless anchored and filled correctly.

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Our pool was right around 25K.  It was a fiberglass drop in unit, and we required a good amount of fill to keep the pool bottom above the water table.  At the regular ground level where the pool was, if you dig down 7 feet you hit water.  The company raised the ground level a good 4 feet so we wouldn't have any issues.  That price also included the concrete around the pool.  We have a natural gas heater, but had some issues with it last year, so it's currently disconnected.  The pool company never put a 3 way valve in, so every drop of water that went to the filter/pump went through the heater.  From what I've read online, this is NOT the way to install it.  

Well the heater core sprung several leaks last year from what appears to be corrosion, and we had to take it out of the system.  New heater cores are $625.  We bypassed it for this year. 

So we're contemplating installing a solar heater, in addition to replacing the heater core and installing a valve so we can shut the flow off to the heater so it doesn't take such a beating. 

The natural gas heater does eat up a ton of gas and costs a good amount, but does heat the pool fairly quickly. 

 

Pool was 88-90 degrees today with no heater, so we don't have to rush into putting anything in until it cools off.

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 does having a pool effect your insurance rates?

 Mine went up a little, maybe $100 a year, but there is also property taxes, electricity to run the pump, chemicals, gas (if you have a gas heater) to also consider. (BTW I do not have a diving board, so I wasn;t dropped)

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 Mine went up a little, maybe $100 a year, but there is also property taxes, electricity to run the pump, chemicals, gas (if you have a gas heater) to also consider. (BTW I do not have a diving board, so I wasn;t dropped)

 

As far as chemicals, down here in Cape May County we have very acidic water.  We typically use a tri-chlor granular "chlorine"(has stabilizer, chlorine and algaecide in it) and PH minus(soda ash). 

Cost wise, we bought a 40lb container of tri-chlor which was $134 dollars, and PH minus was like $9.00.  We'll use about 25lbs of the tri-chlor per year, so that'll last us almost 2 seasons. 

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References and word of mouth are key. Any reputable company should be happy to give them. I will check with my clients first but they are normally happy to have somebody contact them.

Most references are from recent jobs and that is fine. Ask for a reference from older jobs. I would be more concerned with how their work holds up over the years. I have heard way to many contractors say "As long as it looks good until the check clears"

In my profession I see a lot of trade work from the start of a project to years after completion. Some of the things I have seen contractors do is criminal.

A great deal is not always a bad thing. Try to figure out why the difference in price. Is one company using better materials, more cement, etc. Sometimes in the long run the cheaper price isn't always the best. As you said watch out for "extra" charges. Any contractor from the area should know full well what kind of conditions are present at your area. There is always exceptions but those costs should full well be disclosed before hand.

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The comment about acidic water, trichlor and soda ash makes no sense. Trichlor is acidic and tends to drop pH. Soda ash is alkaline and raises pH. It is sold as pH up not pH down. Cheaper than that is borax which also raises pH.

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The comment about acidic water, trichlor and soda ash makes no sense. Trichlor is acidic and tends to drop pH. Soda ash is alkaline and raises pH. It is sold as pH up not pH down. Cheaper than that is borax which also raises pH.

 

I don't know...it is labeled as Soda Ash, so I guess it is PH plus, my bad.  Whatever it is, it keeps our pool perfect on the test strips we use, as well as water samples we've taken to the pool store and had analyzed. 

 

I'm pretty positive we have acidic soil, as we add over a hundred pounds of lime to the lawn every spring.  Acidic soil, water from a well, I would imagine the water we add to the pool is acidic. 

It always keeps the PH level in check if we add water from the hose and whatnot. 

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